Leaving the colonial charm of Cuenca, we continued our Dragoman journey through Ecuador’s verdant landscapes. The fertile plains and mountain valleys were unlike the arid zones of Northern Peru. As we travelled north, we passed through immense banana plantations and fields full of livestock and other agricultural products. Ecuador’s productive land creates the impression of a country with the potential to feed a large part of the world, making it, along with Brazil and Argentina, one of the agricultural powerhouses of South America.

Our destination was Chugchilán, a remote village nestled in the Andean highlands, renowned for being one of the stops along the famous Quilotoa Loop. The landscape began to change as we ascended into the cloud forests, with steep valleys and cliffs emerging into view.

Geography & Climate

The Quilotoa region is situated in Ecuador’s central highlands, characterised by dramatic Andean peaks, deep valleys, and the prominent Quilotoa crater lake. This lake was formed around 600 years ago when the Quilotoa Volcano experienced a cataclysmic eruption. The explosion caused the summit of the volcano to collapse inward, forming the now-famous caldera lake that sits at approximately 3,500 metres above sea level.

The lake’s striking blues and greens are a result of the dissolved minerals in its waters, creating a surreal contrast against the barren volcanic cliffs surrounding it. The rim of the crater stands at 3,914 metres, and while the volcano is dormant, fumaroles can still be observed on the lakebed, hinting at its volatile past.

Due to the altitude, the region experiences a cool climate, with temperatures varying between day and night. Rainfall is sporadic but essential for the small agricultural communities that rely on the fertile volcanic soils for farming.

Laguna de Quilotoa, Ecuador

The Quilotoa Loop Trek – A Journey Through Andean Culture

The Quilotoa Loop is a trek through some of Ecuador’s most stunning highland landscapes. It can be broken down into various segments, each offering unique experiences for the traveller:

Quilotoa Crater Rim Hike
The trek begins with a walk around the rim of the Quilotoa crater, offering sweeping views of the shimmering blue-green waters below. The trail clings to the edge of the caldera, reaching heights of nearly 4,000 metres. The winds can be fierce, but the panorama is unmatched, with views stretching out over the surrounding Andean peaks.

Quilotoa Loop, Chugchilán, Ecuador

Descent into the Valley
After circumnavigating the crater, the trail winds its way down into the lush valleys below. The descent is steep, with sharp drops into the valley floor, but the path is well-trodden and safe. The rivers rushing through these valleys are fast-flowing, fuelled by mountain springs. Terraced farms cover every available inch of land, and you’ll encounter fields of maize, potatoes, and other Andean crops. Cattle, sheep, and pigs graze freely on the steep hillsides.

Arrival in Chugchilán
The final leg of the trek leads to Chugchilán, a small village with a welcoming atmosphere. The Cloud Forest Hotel is a popular stopover for trekkers, providing cosy accommodations with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains. From here, many hikers continue along the loop towards other villages or return to Quilotoa.

Environmental Challenges

The region faces significant environmental challenges, particularly around water management. While the rivers are full during the rainy season, changing weather patterns have led to more erratic rainfall, which can either bring floods or droughts. The increasing frequency of landslides due to deforestation and overgrazing is another issue, as the steep terrain is particularly vulnerable to soil erosion. Additionally, over-reliance on agriculture in such a high-altitude environment has led to soil degradation in some areas, threatening the long-term sustainability of farming.

History & Economy

Historically, the Quilotoa region has been home to indigenous highland communities for centuries. The Incas never fully subdued the independent Andean cultures, and as a result, much of the region retains its unique customs and traditions. The economy here is largely agrarian, with subsistence farming being the main livelihood for local communities. Crops such as potatoes, maize, and quinoa are grown on the steep hillsides, while cattle and sheep provide milk, meat, and wool.

In more recent years, eco-tourism has become a vital source of income. The Quilotoa Loop is a popular destination for trekkers and adventurers, bringing much-needed revenue to the small villages along the route. The sale of locally produced crafts and textiles also helps supplement the rural economy.

Chugchilán and the surrounding areas are home to the Kichwa-speaking indigenous people, whose traditional way of life has endured despite modern influences.

Laguna de Quilotoa, Ecuador

Final Thoughts

The Quilotoa Loop is not just a trek; it is a journey through Ecuador’s history, culture, and natural beauty. The dramatic landscapes, combined with the resilient spirit of the local communities, make this one of the most rewarding treks in the Andes. Yet, it is also clear that the region faces growing environmental challenges that could impact both its agriculture and eco-tourism. With careful management, the balance between preservation and development may help sustain the livelihoods of those who call this rugged land home.

Dates: 27/05/2018 to 29/05/2018 Dragoman Days 12 to 14