Overview and Arrival
Nestled high in the Andes at an elevation of 3,400 metres (11,200 ft), Cusco is a city that blends both its Inca and Spanish colonial heritage. Our journey to Cusco, the historical and cultural heart of Peru, began with a flight from Rodríguez Ballón International Airport in Arequipa to Alejandro Velasco Astete International Airport in Cusco. Cusco is about 1,000 metres higher than Arequipa and having been to the much higher Coca Canyon, we were well acclimatised to the altitude, but for those travelling from Lima and lower destinations. At 3,400 metres, Cusco requires careful acclimatisation. It plays a key role as the gateway to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, and an ideal place to acclimatise before more strenuous adventures at altitude ahead.
Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Geography and Climate
Cusco is in the Urubamba Valley, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Andes. The city’s geographic position, nestled in a high-altitude valley, makes it prone to temperature fluctuations. The dry season, from May to October, offers warm sunny days but very cold nights, while the wet season, from November to April, brings frequent rain. The surrounding mountains play a crucial role in shaping Cusco’s climate and culture, as many of the city’s ancient structures align with natural features, reflecting the Inca’s deep connection to their landscape.
History and Economics
Founded as Qosqo by the Inca Empire, Cusco was the empire’s political, spiritual, and cultural capital. The city’s layout was designed in the shape of a puma, a sacred animal in Inca cosmology, with Sacsayhuaman as the head and the central square (now the Plaza de Armas) as the heart. The arrival of the Spanish conquistadors in 1533 brought dramatic changes. After defeating the Inca ruler Atahualpa, Francisco Pizarro and his men looted Cusco’s wealth and built churches and palaces atop the ruins of Inca temples, symbolising their conquest. The city became a centre of Catholic power and colonial administration, while indigenous culture persisted beneath the surface.
| Atahualpa and the Final Days of the Incas Atahualpa, the last Sapa Inca, ascended to the throne in the early 16th century, presiding over a vast and sophisticated empire. His reign, however, was tragically short-lived. Following a brutal civil war with his half-brother Huáscar, Atahualpa emerged victorious but faced the imminent threat of Spanish conquest. In 1532, Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro captured him during a surprise ambush at Cajamarca. Despite offering a room filled with gold and silver in exchange for his freedom, Atahualpa was executed in 1533, marking a pivotal moment in the fall of the Inca Empire. His death symbolised the end of an era, as the Spanish swiftly seized control of Cusco and the surrounding territories. Atahualpa’s story serves as a reminder of the complex and often tragic intersections of indigenous and European histories, as well as the enduring legacy of Inca culture in contemporary Peru. |
Today, Cusco thrives as the hub of Peru’s tourism industry, attracting visitors from around the world eager to explore its UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the remnants of Inca civilisation and the colonial grandeur imposed by the Spanish. Despite its dependence on tourism, Cusco faces challenges such as water shortages and the impact of climate change on agriculture.
Our Stay at Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel
During our time in Cusco, we stayed at Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel, a charming and peaceful retreat in the heart of the San Blas neighbourhood. Known for its Andean-inspired décor, handmade textiles, and friendly staff, the hotel provided a cosy and welcoming atmosphere. With its quaint rooms and beautiful views over Cusco’s rooftops, Casa San Blas perfectly combined modern comforts with a sense of local culture and history. Its location just a few minutes’ walk from the Plaza de Armas and the lively San Blas square made it an ideal base for exploring the city on foot.
Casa San Blas Boutique Hotel
Principal Sites
Plaza de Armas & Cloisters
The Plaza de Armas, Cusco’s main square, is the city’s vibrant centre, where the past meets the present. Originally the Huacaypata, or “warrior’s square” in Inca times, it served as the ceremonial heart of the Inca Empire. After the Spanish conquest, it was transformed into a colonial square surrounded by arcaded cloisters and elegant buildings, many of which today house restaurants, shops, and travel agencies. The stone pathways and manicured gardens create a peaceful space amidst the hustle and bustle of Cusco’s modern-day tourism industry.
Catedral del Cusco, La Compañía de Jesús and Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Catedral del Cusco
Dominating one side of the Plaza de Armas, Cusco Cathedral (Catedral del Cusco) is an imposing structure built between 1559 and 1654. Constructed largely from stones taken from Sacsayhuaman, the cathedral’s foundations sit atop the former Palace of Viracocha Inca, signifying the transfer of power from Inca to Spanish rule. Inside, the cathedral houses 14 chapels, each richly adorned with gold, silver, and religious art, as well as an impressive collection of colonial-era paintings.
One of the most famous artworks in the cathedral is the Cusco School’s rendition of the Last Supper, which provides a fascinating blend of Andean and European imagery. Painted by Marcos Zapata in the 18th century, the scene depicts Jesus and the apostles dining on Andean foods, including guinea pig (cuy), corn, and potatoes—a testament to the merging of cultures in colonial Peru.
La Compañía de Jesús
Also located on the Plaza de Armas, the Jesuit Church (Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús) stands as one of the most ornate and historically significant buildings in Cusco. Built in 1571 on the foundations of Amaru Cancha, an Inca palace, the church’s stunning Baroque façade and intricately detailed golden altarpiece are true showpieces of colonial architecture. The rivalry between the Jesuits and the nearby cathedral, run by the diocese, led to a dispute over which structure would be more grandiose. Today, La Compañía is famed for its largest altarpiece in Peru, covered entirely in gold leaf.
La Compañía de Jesús, Catedral del Cusco and Plaza de Armas, Cusco
Hathun Rumiyoq
Hathun Rumiyoq is one of Cusco’s most famous streets, known for its Inca stonework. As you stroll along the street, which leads from Plaza de Armas to the San Blas neighbourhood, you’ll pass the Archbishop’s Palace, which incorporates Inca walls into its design. The highlight is the famous 12-angled stone, a masterpiece of Inca engineering that fits perfectly into the surrounding stones without the use of mortar. The precision of the Inca stonework here is a testament to the skill of Inca architects and the strength of their construction techniques, which have withstood centuries of earthquakes.
Convento San Francisco
Just a short walk from the Plaza de Armas is Convento de San Francisco, an imposing monastery founded in the early 1600s. It’s a peaceful retreat from the bustle of the city and is known for its large collection of colonial art. The highlight is an enormous mural depicting Saint Francis of Assisi, founder of the Franciscan order, but visitors will also find an impressive library and a collection of ancient religious relics. The convent is a great example of how Spanish Baroque architecture integrated with the local environment, often using materials from former Inca sites.
Santa Clara Arch, Palacio Nazarenas, Plaza San Francisco and Hathun Rumiyoq, Cusco
Museo y Convento de Santa Catalina
Located in the Plazoleta de Santa Catalina, the Museo y Convento de Santa Catalina is housed in what was once the Acllawasi, the “House of the Chosen Women” under Inca rule, where young women were educated in religion and crafts. After the conquest, it became a convent and is now a museum that houses colonial art and artefacts related to the religious life of nuns. This museum offers insight into the daily lives of those who lived in Cusco during colonial times, both Inca and Spanish.
San Blas Neighbourhood
Known as Cusco’s artistic district, San Blas is a bohemian neighbourhood located on a hillside overlooking the city. With its narrow cobblestone streets and whitewashed adobe buildings, San Blas feels worlds away from the bustling centre of Cusco. The area is filled with galleries, handicraft workshops, and quaint cafes. At the heart of San Blas is the Church of San Blas, built in the 16th century. It houses an elaborately carved pulpit, said to be one of the finest examples of woodwork in colonial Peru. San Blas is the perfect place to wander aimlessly, discovering local artisans and stunning city views.
Cusco’s Mercado Central de San Pedro
For a true taste of Cusco’s local life, a visit to the Mercado Central de San Pedro is essential. This bustling market, located just a short walk from the Plaza de Armas, offers everything from fresh produce to artisan crafts. Stalls are piled high with colourful potatoes, corn, fruits, and grains, as well as a range of herbs used in traditional Andean medicine. The market is also a great place to try traditional Peruvian dishes like ceviche, rocoto relleno (stuffed spicy peppers), and the hearty chiriuchu, a festival food that includes guinea pig, chicken, and Andean herbs. Mercado Central serves as a cultural hub, offering insight into both the traditional and contemporary lifestyle of Cusco’s residents.
Mercado Central de San Pedro, Cusco
Sacsayhuaman
Towering over Cusco from its position on a hilltop, Sacsayhuaman is one of the most significant Inca structures. Constructed with enormous limestone blocks, some weighing more than 100 tons, the fortress demonstrates the Incas’ exceptional architectural prowess. This site, located at 3,701 metres (12,142 ft), formed the “head” of the puma-shaped layout of Cusco and was a major religious and military centre. Although Sacsayhuaman was incomplete when the Spanish arrived, the sheer scale and precision of the walls remain awe-inspiring. Sacsayhuaman played a crucial role in the last Inca resistance against the Spanish during the siege of 1536. Walking through the site, you can admire the towering walls and imagine how the Incas transported and carved these massive stones with such precision. The view from the top offers a panoramic outlook over the entire city of Cusco.
Sacsayhuaman, Cusco
Restaurants We Loved
Cusco has a diverse and thriving food scene, and during our stay, we dined at some truly memorable places.
- Limo: Overlooking the Plaza de Armas, this modern Peruvian-Japanese fusion restaurant offered an incredible culinary experience. We enjoyed dishes like ceviche with a unique twist and sushi made with fresh local ingredients. The view from the restaurant added to the dining experience, as we watched the sunset over the historic square.
- Cicciolina: Tucked away in a colonial building just off the Plaza, Cicciolina is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. Offering a blend of Mediterranean and Andean cuisine, we loved the fresh pasta, local seafood, and the extensive wine list. The ambiance here was warm and inviting, with an open kitchen that allowed us to watch the chefs in action.
- Jack’s Café: A laid-back spot in the San Blas neighbourhood, Jack’s Café was perfect for a hearty breakfast or lunch. Their pancakes, burgers, and fresh fruit juices made it a great place to recharge after a morning of exploring. It’s a popular hangout for travellers, offering a comfortable, homely atmosphere.
Final Thoughts
Cusco is a city where history pulses through every cobblestone street, from the remnants of its Inca past to the grandeur of colonial architecture. As we wandered through its vibrant plazas, explored the artistry of local markets, and dined at its delightful restaurants, we were constantly reminded of the cultural fusion that defines this remarkable city. Cusco serves not only as a gateway to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu but also as a destination in its own right, rich in stories, traditions, and a resilient spirit. The blend of Inca heritage and colonial influence creates a unique atmosphere, inviting visitors to delve deeper into its layered history. Whether you’re hiking up to Sacsayhuaman or enjoying a meal at a local café, Cusco leaves an indelible mark on all who visit, embodying the vibrant essence of Peru itself.
Dates: 03/07/2018 to 05/07/2018 and 10/07/2018 to 12/07/2018 – Revised 04/11/2024