Overview

After leaving the breathtaking heights of the Cordillera Blanca, we rejoined the Pan-American Highway on our journey to explore the Pre-Inca Civilisations of the North. The road traced the Pacific coastline, cutting through vast stretches of arid desert, with occasional green oases breaking up the dry landscape. Mornings were often shrouded in sea mist, blanketing the land in grey. Unfortunately, the coastal scenery was often marred by litter, particularly plastic and rubble, scattered along the roadsides. Peru, more than any other country we’ve travelled through so far, seems to face a significant issue with rubbish and plastics, especially in rural areas.

Our destination, Huanchaco, lies just outside the large oasis city of Trujillo, which was named after the hometown of the conquistador Francisco Pizarro. Known for its famous surfing waves and rocky beach, Huanchaco offered a much-needed reprieve from the coastal mist, thanks to the nearby oasis.  In Huanchaco we camped in the grounds of the beach hotel Naylap.

Dragoman Truck at Chan Chan, Peru

Geography and Climate of the Region

The region around Huanchaco and Trujillo is defined by its coastal desert landscape, interspersed with river valleys that create fertile oases. The Pacific Ocean to the west brings in cool sea breezes and the distinctive morning mist known as garúa, while the Andes to the east act as a barrier, creating a dry, rain-shadow effect. The coastal plain has minimal rainfall, relying on rivers originating from the mountains for irrigation. This arid environment has presented challenges throughout history, including droughts and changing rainfall patterns, which impact agriculture and water availability.

Trujillo – A Modern Oasis City with a Colonial Legacy

The city of Trujillo is the third-largest city in Peru, with a population of around 1 million people. Founded in 1534 by Francisco Pizarro, Trujillo was named after his birthplace in Spain. It quickly became one of the most important cities in colonial Peru, known for its fertile agricultural lands and proximity to the coast.

Today, Trujillo is a vibrant and growing urban centre, boasting a mix of modern infrastructure and well-preserved colonial buildings. Key landmarks include the Plaza de Armas, the Cathedral of Trujillo, and the colourful Casa Urquiaga, a historic mansion that now houses a museum. Trujillo is also the cultural heart of the region, hosting annual festivals like the Marinera Festival, celebrating the national dance of Peru, and the Spring Festival, which showcases flower parades and local traditions.

The Surfing Town of Huanchaco

Located just 12 km from Trujillo, Huanchaco is a small fishing town renowned for its surfing culture. The town’s caballitos de totora – traditional reed boats used by local fishermen for millennia – are still seen lining the shores. Huanchaco is not only popular with surfers but also has deep historical roots. It was once the main port for the ancient Chimú culture and has been designated a World Surfing Reserve, a testament to its strong connection with the sea.

Chan Chan, Peru

The beaches here, though rocky, provide the perfect setting for surfers, and the misty mornings clear up quickly due to the nearby oasis, making this region significantly more attractive than much of the surrounding desert coast.

The Chimu Civilization and Chan Chan
The most famous of the pre-Inca civilisations in this region was the Chimú, who flourished between 900 AD and their conquest by the Inca Empire in the 1470s. The Chimú people built an extensive kingdom that controlled much of the northern coast of Peru. Their capital was Chan Chan, a sprawling adobe city that once covered 20 square kilometres, making it the largest adobe city in the world.

Chan Chan – The Largest Adobe City

Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986, Chan Chan consists of a series of nine walled citadels, each representing different rulers and dynasties. The city was intricately planned, with residential areas, ceremonial plazas, temples, and storage facilities. Despite centuries of erosion from coastal winds, rain, and earthquakes, the remnants of these structures are still impressive.

• Carvings and Reliefs: Inside the citadels, the walls are adorned with reliefs of animals such as fish, pelicans, and squirrels, reflecting the Chimú people’s connection with the sea and nature. Although the vibrant paint that once covered these walls has long since disappeared, the detail of the carvings offers a glimpse into the city’s former splendour.
• Principal Temple: One of the largest and most restored temples in Chan Chan features sharply defined carvings, depicting intricate patterns and figures. The site’s scale and sophistication stand as evidence of the Chimú’s advanced architectural techniques and social organization, comparable to medieval cities in Europe.

Unfortunately, the city is threatened by both encroaching urbanisation from nearby Trujillo and changes to the local water table, further exacerbating erosion. Despite these pressures, Chan Chan remains an awe-inspiring testament to the achievements of the Chimú.

Chan Chan, Peru

The Moche Civilization and the Huacas del Sol and de la Luna

Predating the Chimú by several centuries, the Moche civilisation thrived along the northern coast of Peru between 100 AD and 800 AD. The Moche are known for their impressive pyramid-like structures, intricate pottery, and murals depicting complex religious rituals. Their most significant archaeological site is the Huacas del Moche, located just south of Trujillo.

Huaca del Sol, Trujillo, Peru

The Huaca del Sol, the larger of the two, was the administrative and royal centre for the Moche rulers and is the largest adobe pyramid in the Americas. Standing at over 40 metres high, this massive structure was once thought to have been built using more than 130 million adobe bricks. However, the Huaca del Sol remains inaccessible to visitors due to its delicate condition and ongoing conservation work.

On the other hand, the Huaca de la Luna, the smaller and better-preserved pyramid, is open to the public. This ceremonial complex, constructed over several centuries, consists of six levels, each built atop the previous one and buried in sand as part of a deliberate architectural process.

Huaca del Luna, Trujillo, Peru

• Murals: The murals that have been uncovered at the Huaca de la Luna are among the most stunning in Peru, showcasing bright red, yellow, and blue colours. These murals often depict Ai Apaec, the chief deity of the Moche, along with geometric designs and scenes of sacrifice and battle. The Rebellion of the Artefacts, one of the most famous murals, features intricate carvings of humans, animals, and artefacts in conflict with one another.
• Human Sacrifice: Archaeologists have uncovered significant evidence of human sacrifice at the Huaca de la Luna, with remains of war prisoners and ritual executions discovered in the ceremonial plaza. The ritualistic nature of these sacrifices suggests the Moche believed in pleasing the gods through blood offerings, although whether the Moche king drank the blood of the victims remains a point of speculation.

Huaca de la Luna, Trujillo, Peru

Environmental Challenges

Water management has always been crucial in this desert region, and with climate change, this challenge has intensified. Erratic rainfall patterns and a decline in water availability from the Andean rivers pose threats to both agriculture and the local population. The traditional farming techniques of the pre-Columbian civilizations, which once allowed this region to flourish, are being undermined by environmental pressures. Additionally, the desert’s proximity to the ocean means that the area is vulnerable to tsunamis and rising sea levels, which could impact both archaeological sites and coastal communities like Huanchaco.

Final Thoughts

The northern coast of Peru is home to some of the most remarkable pre-Inca civilisations in South America. From the sprawling adobe city of Chan Chan, built by the powerful Chimú, to the ceremonial pyramids of the Moche, this region provides a window into the rich and complex history of ancient Peru. Huanchaco and Trujillo offer the modern traveller a chance to explore these ancient cultures while enjoying the natural beauty and surf culture of the Peruvian coast.

While the Moche and Chimú are long gone, their architectural achievements, artistic expressions, and rituals continue to inspire awe in the 21st century. As you walk through the adobe ruins and gaze at the vivid murals, it’s easy to imagine the bustling cities and vibrant ceremonies that once took place here, long before the rise of the Inca.

Dates: 21/05/2018 to23/05/2018 Dragoman Days 5 to 7