Overview and Arrival
Kuélap, often referred to as the “Machu Picchu of the North,” is one of the most significant pre-Columbian sites in South America, located in the remote Amazonas region of northern Peru. This massive stone fortress in the clouds, built by the Chachapoyas civilisation, stands perched atop a mountain ridge, offering a spectacular view over the Utcubamba Valley. Despite its grandeur, Kuélap has remained off the beaten tourist trail, overshadowed by the more famous Inca ruins in the south. However, its accessibility is gradually improving, and its allure is growing among both local and international visitors.
To reach Kuélap, we opted for a short flight from Lima to Chachapoyas (ATSA Airlines operates flights using a small 50-seater Fokker aircraft), a market town located about two hours away from the site. This flight spared us the gruelling overland journey, which involves up to 12 hours of travel by bus from Chiclayo, a route still used by those seeking an overland adventure.
Nuevo Tingo
We chose to stay at the Ekokuelap Hospedaje Ecológico in Nuevo Tingo, a peaceful base just a short distance from Kuélap and the owner also doubled up as local guide and was able to arrange excusions to the local ares as well as take us on the trek to the Cataratas de Gocta and surrounding waterfalls. The proprietor was also a musician and invited us to join him and his friends for a jamming session in one of the bars of Nuevo Tingo. This eco-lodge, set amidst serene natural surroundings, provided a tranquil escape and a glimpse into local village life.
Nueva Tingo where we stayed is relatively new and is in many ways a throwback to a much earlier period, whereby all the residents seem to know each other, pretty much every front door is left open, and children can play safely in the streets. Also like most South American towns there is a large dog population, which lazes in the middle of the road and nonchalantly wander into their houses. Some of the dogs have kamikaze instincts in chasing every moving vehicle, it is amazing that there are fewer casualties. Furthermore, the town has an abundance of wildlife, with hummingbirds continually on the search for nectar, and also many chickens gagging round the streets too.
Nuevo Tingo and Chacapoyas
Geography & Climate
Kuélap sits at an altitude of approximately 3,000 metres (9,842 feet), high enough to feel the thinness of the air but not quite at the extreme heights of some Andean locations. The fortress is surrounded by lush cloud forests, typical of the Amazonas region, where misty mornings and temperate climates define the landscape. The altitude contributes to cooler temperatures, especially at night, and visitors should be prepared for unpredictable weather, as rain can sweep through the valley suddenly. The Utcubamba Valley, stretching below Kuélap, is an area rich in biodiversity, with its humid forests home to a wide variety of flora and fauna.
During out time in Nuevo Tingo, the night skies were very clear and at that altitude we were able to observe La Crux Andina (Southern Cross) and had the four principal planets: Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn in a clear line across the night sky. The Andean night skies are often spectacular, and it is easy to appreciate how the early indigenous populations were so in awe of the skies and how the movements in the skies and seasons shaped their lives.
History of Kuélap and the Chachapoyas
The Chachapoyas, often known as the “Warriors of the Clouds,” were a mysterious and sophisticated people who thrived in the highlands of Northern Peru. Little is known about their origins, but they are believed to have inhabited the area from around 500 AD until the Inca conquest in the 15th century. Kuélap, their most remarkable achievement, was constructed between 500 AD and 1495 AD. This massive fortress was built as a stronghold against rival tribes and later the expanding Inca Empire. Interestingly, the Incas largely left Kuélap intact after their conquest, a testament to its strategic significance.
The site was rediscovered in 1843 by the explorer Juan Crisóstomo Nieto, although local people had always known of its existence. Since then, Kuélap has slowly gained attention, though it remains far less visited than other ancient ruins in Peru. Archaeological studies continue to shed light on the Chachapoyas’ culture, which blended with Incan and Spanish influences over time.
Kuélap
Economics
The economy of the Chachapoyas region, including the town of Chachapoyas and surrounding villages, has traditionally been based on agriculture. Crops such as potatoes, maize, and coffee are cultivated in the fertile Utcubamba Valley. The increasing number of tourists has also bolstered the local economy, creating opportunities in hospitality, transportation, and craft industries. The introduction of the cable car to Kuélap has been a game-changer, facilitating easier access to the site and boosting visitor numbers. However, local communities are striving to balance economic growth with the need to preserve the fragile ecosystems and the cultural heritage of the area.
Culture
The cultural identity of the Chachapoyas people has largely faded over the centuries due to Incan and later Spanish conquest. However, the modern-day descendants, living in towns like Chachapoyas and Nuevo Tingo, retain aspects of their indigenous heritage. Traditions related to farming, architecture, and music have been passed down through generations. Festivals in the region often feature a mix of indigenous and Catholic practices, reflecting this layered cultural identity. Chachapoyas also remains a base for the region’s rich archaeological history, serving as a hub for both scholars and adventurous travellers.
Food and Local Restaurants
The region is known for simple but hearty Andean cuisine, with stews, corn, potatoes, and local meats often making up the backbone of meals. In Nuevo Tingo, you can sample traditional Chachapoyan dishes at small, family-run establishments, offering meals made from locally sourced ingredients. Local coffee is also highly regarded, and several cafés in the town serve freshly brewed, organic coffee grown in the nearby hills.
Principal Sites
Kuélap
Kuélap is the star attraction of the region, a massive fortress in the clouds that stretches approximately 700 metres along a mountain ridge. Getting to the site is relatively simple from Nuevo Tingo where for PEN 20 you take a combined bus and cable car up the mountain to the fortress. The cable car is long and uses 23 pylons to transport the 26 modern cable cars, which are similar to those in La Paz, down the valley and then across right up the next valley to the citadel, from where there is a kilometre or so walk up to the citadel. Of course, the more adventurous can take the three hour hike up the mountain which climbs nearly 1,500 metres from Tingo in the Utcubamba Valley below. Principal features of the site include:
Massive Defensive Walls
The most immediately striking feature of Kuélap is its immense defensive walls. These stone walls are constructed of millions of limestone blocks, with some sections towering up to 20 metres (65 feet) high. They encircle the entire fortress, protecting the settlement from invaders while also showcasing the impressive engineering capabilities of the Chachapoyas. The sheer scale and height of these walls make it one of the most formidable fortresses in the Americas.
Entrances
Kuélap has three narrow entrances, the primary one being a long, wedge-shaped passage that dramatically narrows as it ascends toward the inner area. These funnel-like entrances were a clever defensive mechanism, designed to restrict access and force attackers to enter single file, making it easier for defenders to repel an assault. The two secondary entrances are also similarly narrow, adding to the fortress’ impenetrable design.
Kuélap
Templo Mayor (El Tintero)
At the heart of Kuélap lies the Templo Mayor, an elliptical structure also known as El Tintero (“The Inkwell”) due to its unusual bottle-like shape. This temple is believed to have been a sacred space for religious and ceremonial activities. Archaeologists speculate that it may have served as a temple for sacrifices or rituals, with some evidence suggesting that human remains were interred here. The structure has a large, bottle-shaped underground chamber, which is still a subject of study and intrigue. El Tintero is one of Kuélap’s most mysterious and iconic structures, embodying the religious significance of the site for the Chachapoyas.
Torreón (The Watchtower)
Another fascinating feature is the Torreón, or watchtower, strategically positioned near the walls. This tower offered a sweeping view of the surrounding valleys, serving as a lookout point to detect approaching enemies. From the Torreón, Chachapoyas sentinels could monitor both the valley below and the hillsides, ensuring that Kuélap remained secure. The elevated position of the Torreón, combined with its fortified design, reflects the military importance of Kuélap in its heyday.
Circular Stone Houses
Within the fortress, over 400 circular stone houses have been discovered. These dwellings were originally built with conical thatched roofs, though today only their stone foundations remain. Many of the houses feature intricate diamond and zigzag patterns etched into the walls, a decorative touch unique to Chachapoyas architecture. These designs may have held symbolic or cultural significance, though their exact meaning remains uncertain. Inside, archaeologists have found traces of domestic life, including stone hearths, suggesting that these were living spaces for the inhabitants of the fortress.
Kuélap
Urban Layout: High Town and Low Town
Kuélap is divided into two main sectors, often referred to as the High Town and Low Town. The High Town, situated at the northern end of the site, is believed to have been the area for the elite, featuring larger and more elaborately decorated buildings, including the Templo Mayor and the Torreón. This part of Kuélap likely housed religious and political leaders and served as the ceremonial hub of the settlement.
The Low Town, on the southern side, contains smaller, more modest dwellings, suggesting it was home to the general population. The distinction between these two areas reflects the social stratification that existed within the Chachapoyas society. Walking through Kuélap, visitors can clearly see the remains of both residential and ceremonial spaces, offering insights into the day-to-day life of its inhabitants.
Revash
Revash, located in the Utcubamba Valley, is another significant site, a pre-Incan cliffside burial complex where tombs are built into the rock faces. The red and white painted mausoleums resemble small houses, complete with windows and gabled roofs. These tombs are thought to have been used for nobles and religious leaders, and though they have been looted over time, many remain intact.
Revash
Leymebamba
In the town of Leymebamba, you’ll find one of the best pre-Inca museums in Peru. The Leymebamba Museum houses over 200 Chachapoya mummies, many of which were discovered near Laguna de los Cóndores. The mummies are eerily well-preserved, with embroidered burial shrouds and haunting expressions. The museum also showcases pottery, textiles, and musical instruments, offering a glimpse into the Chachapoyas’ everyday life.
Leymebamba
Cataratas de Gocta
The Cataratas de Gocta, one of the world’s tallest waterfalls at 771 metres (2,530 feet), is another highlight in the region. The two-stage waterfall is a four-hour trek from the village of Cocachimba, winding through the lush upper rainforest. The hike offers incredible views of the surrounding mountains and the opportunity to spot wildlife such as monkeys and toucans.
Cataratas de Yumbilla
Though less famous than Gocta, the Cataratas de Yumbilla is an equally impressive waterfall hidden on the other side of the mountain. Its 895-metre drop makes it even taller than Gocta, but the trek is equally rewarding, leading through pristine rainforests.
Cataratas de Gocta and Cataratas de Yumbilla
Chachapoyas
Chachapoyas, the regional capital, is a charming colonial town with whitewashed buildings and wooden balconies lining its narrow streets. The town square, Plaza de Armas, is undergoing a revitalisation project, making it a more attractive centre for visitors. Chachapoyas is a pleasant and relatively quiet place to stay, serving as the gateway to Kuélap and the surrounding attractions. While it remains small, its historical significance and proximity to several archaeological sites make it an ideal base for exploration.
Chacapoyas
Environmental Challenges
Despite its increasing popularity, the Chachapoyas region faces environmental challenges. The rise in tourism has placed pressure on the fragile cloud forests that surround Kuélap and the waterfalls. Efforts to protect these ecosystems are ongoing, with local communities, the government, and environmental organisations working to ensure that the natural beauty and biodiversity of the region remain intact. Another pressing issue is the impact of changing weather patterns due to climate change, which threatens the region’s agriculture and water supplies.
Final Thoughts
Kuélap and the surrounding Chachapoyas region offer a unique glimpse into Peru’s lesser-known history, culture, and natural beauty. Its remoteness and the challenges in getting there have preserved the site from over-tourism, making it a rewarding destination for adventurous travellers. With improved infrastructure and an increasing focus on sustainable tourism, this enigmatic fortress in the clouds is sure to capture the imagination of many more visitors in the years to come. But for now, it remains a hidden gem—one that feels like stepping back in time, where the echoes of an ancient civilisation still reverberate across the mountains.
Dates: 27/07/2018 to 03/08/2018 – Revised 05/11/2024