During our year long trip round South America in 2018 we visited La Paz two times. The first was in May as part of our continuous journey North up the continent and the second in July as a result of us rejigging our travels through Peru in order to take advantage of the Dragoman trip from Lima to Quito through Northern Peru which we judged, because it being roads less frequently travelled, would be more complicated to arrange than travelling through the Southern part of Peru and Lake Titicaca. For southern Peru and Lake Titicaca, we opted to use a combination of Peru Hop and Bolivia Hop in a sort of crescent journey from Cusco to Lima via Lake Titicaca, La Paz, Arequipa and Nazca. Peru / Bolivia Hop have the advantage over public buses in that they will collect and deposit passengers directly at their hotels rather than simply using the main bus terminal.
Initially we planned on our first visit to travel from Potosí to La Paz via Sucre, technically Bolivia’s capital city, but the city was blockaded by protesters, with no sign of the dispute being resolved any time soon, so we decided to go to La Paz earlier than planned. Despite wanting to avoid travelling overnight on Bolivia’s public busses, through some safety fears and, also not wanting to miss out on seeing the unusual scenery of the altiplano on route, we had little choice of the overnight bus. We deliberately chose the latest bus possible, this one departing at 10pm to avoid arriving in a new city in the very early hours of the morning with all the challenges and expense of finding accommodation for the morning and dealing with our baggage which contained all the stuff we needed for our year in South America.
The bus in the end arrived in La Paz bus station a couple of hours early at 5am in the morning much to the delight of the bus driver and several of the other passengers. For us it would have been better for the bus to arrive later than its scheduled time of 7am! Despite La Paz being one great big market, nothing was open in La Paz bus station at that time, not even one of the many small cafes to get a hot drink. Also with its altitude, 5am in La Paz is very cold. After what seemed an eternity, businesses began to open, and we were able to have a decent breakfast and warm drink.
La Paz Bus Terminal, Local Public Bus, Murals in Estrella Andina Hotel, La Paz, Bolivia
We booked to stay at the Estrella Andina Hotel, just next the Mercado de las Brujas (Witches’ Market). This was the hotel that Dragoman used in La Paz, so we knew it was safe and had a certain level of standard. In fact, it was much better than expected and superior to the ones they used in Buenos Aires and Santiago. The rooms all had their own distinctive artwork murals and at the top was the hotel kitchen and restaurant with panorama views of the local area. Also, the hotel made its own bread, which was very good and created a pleasant aroma of freshly cooked bread in the upper floors.
We left La Paz the first time by air from the highest international airport in the world, El Alto International Airport, at 4,061 metres to fly to Lima and rejoin our overland journey. Arriving on our first visit and our second visit was by land.
Geography and Climate
La Paz, or more formally La Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de la Paz (The City of Our Lady of Peace), is a city quite different from any other we have visited on our journey. Though Sucre remains Bolivia’s constitutional capital, La Paz functions as the de facto seat of government. Set within a canyon carved by the Choqueyapu River, La Paz is nestled in the high Altiplano at 3,600 metres, making it the world’s highest capital city. Together with its sister city El Alto, even higher at an altitude of over 4,000 metres, with a combined population of well over 1.7 million, this is one of the largest and highest urban areas on the planet.
The city’s dramatic geography is defined by the steep canyon walls it climbs, with buildings cascading down the slopes. La Paz enjoys a high-altitude climate with cold winters and temperate summers. Temperatures can vary greatly in one day due to the altitude, with sunny afternoons often followed by freezing nights. Rainy season runs from November to March, contributing to lush vegetation in some of the surrounding areas.
The geography plays an integral role in daily life, with residents in lower elevations generally wealthier than those living in El Alto or on higher terrain. The contrast between the bustling centre and the sprawling, high-altitude plateau of El Alto is one of the city’s defining features.
The climate is classified as a subtropical highland climate. Due to its altitude, temperatures are cool year-round, with daytime highs averaging 10-18°C (50-65°F) and nighttime lows ranging from 0-10°C (32-50°F). Rainfall is more frequent during the summer months from December to March, while the winter months from June to August are drier and cooler.
History and Economics
Founded in 1548 by the Spanish conquistadors, La Paz quickly became a critical colonial hub due to its proximity to Potosí and the wealth of silver extracted from Cerro Rico. Over the centuries, La Paz grew into a centre of commerce, politics, and culture. Today, the economy of La Paz is diverse, encompassing everything from government services to light industries, with tourism playing an increasingly important role. Mining still holds an important place in Bolivia’s economy, though not to the degree it once did during the colonial era.
El Alto, La Paz’s rapidly growing satellite city, has become an economic powerhouse, especially in the informal sector. Markets stretch for miles, and the entrepreneurial spirit is seen everywhere, from car spare part stalls to massive food and clothing markets.
The scale of the mining industry in Bolivia and the fact that nearly all minerals are priced in USD means that Bolivia, in contrast to say next door Argentina, has a relatively stable currency and doesn’t suffer to the same degree bouts of hyperinflation.
Mercado de las Brujas, La Paz, Bolivia
Markets
Everywhere you turn in La Paz, markets dominate. The Mercado de las Brujas (Witches’ Market) is perhaps the most famous, where Aymara women in traditional dress sell herbal remedies, dried llama foetuses (used in ritual offerings to Pachamama), and other curious items. The market also contains many tourist focussed shops selling all sorts of souvenirs and rather more interestingly a huge range of artisanal textiles, rugs etc. In addition, many clothing shops are found here, and some of the alpaca wool sweaters etc. represent excellent value and are often cheaper than their equivalents found in Peru and neighbouring countries.
The other side of the Iglesia de San Francisco is a more modern market Mercado Lanzaset in what looks like a multistorey car park where you can buy food, clothing and any sort of everyday household items. There are also many informal eating places too. The surrounding streets also contain many more market stalls.
El Alto hosts one of the largest street markets in the world, stretching for kilometres, and is particularly busy on a Sunday, an unforgettable experience. The market is a sprawling network of stalls selling everything from car parts to clothes, managed predominantly by women. The scale and variety of goods make it a vibrant and bustling hub.
El Alto and El Teleférico, Boliva
Culture and Food
Bolivian cuisine reflects its Andean roots. You’ll find staples such as salteñas, a type of baked empanada filled with meat, egg, and a slightly sweet sauce, which makes for a popular street snack. For a heartier meal, pique macho is a dish of beef, potatoes, and vegetables, often spiced with ají, a traditional hot pepper sauce. La Paz is also famous for api, a warm, spiced corn drink that pairs well with buñuelos—fried dough balls typically enjoyed during chilly mornings.
One of Bolivia’s signature beverages, however, is singani, a high-altitude brandy made from muscat grapes. In recent years, La Paz has also seen a boom in artisanal beers, with Paceña being a well-known brand. El Alto is home to the world’s highest commercial brewery, which makes Potosina beer—a refreshing choice when acclimatising to the altitude.
Near to our hotel were many bars and restaurants, most of which were also extremely good value. Particularly interesting was the next-door English pub, Liverpool Pub, which not only sold the local Bolivian beers but also offered fish n chips using locally caught white fish in Lake Titicaca.
Principal Sites, Churches, and Museums
Among La Paz’s most important landmarks is Plaza Murillo, the political heart of the city. : The central square of La Paz, named after Pedro Domingo Murillo, a key figure in Bolivia’s independence struggle. Murillo led a significant uprising against Spanish rule but was captured and executed in this very square. Today, his legacy is commemorated with a statue in the plaza. The square also houses the Catedral Metropolitanathe Palacio Quemadoand the Palacio Legistativo.
Plaza Murillo, Catedral Metropolitana, Iglesia La Merced, Palacio Legistativo, La Paz, Bolivia
Catedral Metropolitana
Located on one side of Plaza Murillo, this cathedral took many years to complete and is known for its austere design compared to other more ornate buildings in the city. Work started on the building back in 1835, but it was only completed in 1932.
Palacio Quemado
Also known as the Burnt Palace, so named after it was badly damaged by fire back in 1875, serves as a symbol of Bolivia’s often turbulent political past. This building serves as the seat of Bolivia’s presidency.
Clock Tower
Situated on the roof of the Palacio Legistativo, the national legislature, this clock is unique for running counterclockwise and the numbers inverted. This change was made as a symbolic reminder to embrace Bolivia’s indigenous roots and reject Western impositions. Locally it has been dubbed the clock of the south.
The Plaza de San Fancisco
Has also been a focal point for various social and political movements throughout Bolivian history. During the 18th and 19th centuries, it became a hub for public gatherings, protests, and important announcements. In recent years, the area has maintained its status as a lively centre of La Paz’s cultural life.
The Iglesia de San Francisco
Located at the intersection of Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz, is perhaps the finest example of colonial architecture in the city. Its intricate stone façade and the ornate interior are a testament to the wealth and power the church wielded during colonial times. The original church, built in 1549, collapsed under the weight of snow in 1610, prompting a lengthy reconstruction process that took place in the 18th century. The rebuilt version, completed in 1753, is the structure that stands today, and its completion marked a significant moment in La Paz’s religious and cultural history.
| The church showcases a blend of Baroque and Andean Indigenous styles, creating what is known as mestizo Baroque or Andean Baroque. This architectural style, which became popular in the 17th century, combines traditional Spanish Baroque elements with local indigenous symbolism and design, reflecting the cultural fusion that was prevalent during the colonial period in Latin America. – Facade: The facade of the Iglesia de San Francisco is particularly remarkable for its intricate carvings, which mix Catholic symbols with indigenous motifs. The facade is made of stone and features classic Baroque flourishes, such as spiralled columns and ornamented niches. What makes it unique is the inclusion of local iconography like pumas, condors, and sun symbols, all of which were important in indigenous cosmology. These carvings are a clear sign of how the indigenous peoples of the region integrated their artistic traditions into the imported European style. – Interior: The interior of the church is less ornate than its facade but retains its grandeur with a series of vaulted ceilings, decorated altars, and religious paintings. The main altar is richly gilded and displays carved wooden figures of saints, typical of the Baroque style. The church also houses various colonial-era paintings and sculptures that were produced in the renowned Quito School of Art, which was famous for its religious art during the colonial period. |
Iglesia de San Francisco, La Paz, Bolivia
Today, the church is part of a larger complex that includes the Museo San Francisco, where visitors can explore the history of the church and the Franciscan Order in Bolivia. The museum offers guided tours that take you through the church’s cloisters, bell towers, and crypts, providing a comprehensive look at the role of the church in La Paz’s history.
For broader history, the Museo Nacional de Etnografía y Folklore is one of the most informative museums in Bolivia, highlighting the country’s diverse indigenous cultures. The Museo de la Coca is another must-visit, offering insight into the cultural and historical significance of the coca plant in Andean society.
Calle Jaén
With its perfectly preserved colonial buildings, is another historical gem. This street is home to several small museums, including the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum) and the Museo de Murillo, dedicated to Bolivia’s independence hero.
Calle Jaén, La Paz Book Shop, Bolivia
Festivals
Throughout the year, the city hosts several colourful festivals. One of the most significant is the Gran Poder, a religious and cultural event that features vibrant street parades filled with dancers in extravagant costumes. This festival honours the Señor Jesús del Gran Poder and blends indigenous and Catholic traditions, demonstrating the unique cultural syncretism in Bolivia.
The Cholitas and Fixed Wrestling Bouts
Among the more unique spectacles of La Paz are the cholita wrestling matches held in El Alto on Thursdays and Sundays. The cholitas, dressed in their traditional attire—complete with voluminous skirts (polleras), bowler hats, large earrings, and long braided hair—engage in theatrical wrestling bouts. There’s plenty of hair-pulling and exaggerated drama, with each match heavily play-acted. The outcome of these bouts is always fixed, a well-known fact amongst the locals, yet the crowds, mainly tourists, get thoroughly involved, shouting and jeering as the matches unfold. The spectacle offers a curious blend of Bolivia’s indigenous culture and modern-day sports entertainment.
| The Cholitas are indigenous women in Bolivia who embrace their cultural heritage who wear distinctive clothing including the polleras (colourful dresses), shawls and the iconic chola paceñas, (bowler hats). The word derives from the diminutive form of the Spanish word cholo used to describe individuals of mixed indigenous and Spanish heritage. |
Cholitas, El Alto, Bolivia
Teleférico
The El Teleférico cable car system is a modern transportation marvel that connects La Paz with El Alto. Built with Austrian assistance, it provides a clean and efficient way to navigate the city, offering stunning views of the urban landscape. This system contrasts sharply with the old American buses and minibuses that dominate the city’s streets, which are often characterized by their belching exhaust fumes and chaotic traffic.
Cable car systems are fast becoming an efficient, cheap and modern way of public transport in many Latin American cities. In particular, they have been effective in connecting the poor and distant barrios to the main city centres and places of work. In La Paz the connection between the old colonial centre and El Alto, with the significant changes in altitude between the two places, has been particularly beneficial in connecting the two places as the roads between them are particularly congested in addition to the climb of around 500 metres.
El Teleférico and Tiwanaku, Bolivia
Tiwanaku
A short drive from La Paz, around 70kms to the southwest, is the ancient site of Tiwanaku, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tiwanaku was the centre of a powerful pre-Columbian empire that predated the Incas by centuries.
The massive stones at Puma Punku, thought to have been carved without the use of modern tools, continue to baffle archaeologists and visitors alike especially as to how the Tiwanaku managed to accurately carve the big sones so that they connect and join each other seamlessly in accurate straight lines, corners and a variety of different angles.
Tiwanaku’s ceremonial centre, with its Akapana Pyramid and the Kalassaya Temple, offers a fascinating glimpse into the spiritual life of this ancient civilisation.
| The Tiwanaku civilization flourished from around 1,500 BC to 1,200 AD. They were known for their advanced agricultural techniques and impressive architectural achievements. Their technology and knowledge were later adopted and adapted by the Incas, who built upon the foundations laid by the Tiwanaku. |
Tiwanaku, Bolivia
Final Thoughts
La Paz, with its high altitude, rich history, vibrant culture, and unique markets, offers a compelling blend of experiences. From its bustling streets and cultural spectacles to its ancient ruins and modern infrastructure, the city provides a deep and varied exploration of Bolivian life. Looking back at all the major cities we have visited in Latin America, La Paz stands out as one of the most unique and different places you can visit, totally mad but compelling.
Dates: 10/05/2018 to 16/05/2015 and 16/07/2018 to 18/07/2018 Revised 03/11/2024