Lima, Peru’s capital, is a city of historical grandeur, cultural richness, and modern dynamism, known as the City of Kings or in Spanish, Ciudad de los Reyes. Over several visits in 2018, we experienced Lima’s transformation from its colonial past to its status as the country’s political, economic, and cultural hub. This blog consolidates those experiences, providing a comprehensive exploration of the city.

Lima, located on the arid Pacific coast, is the primary gateway for visitors to Peru. Each arrival brought us to a sprawling metropolis of approximately 10 million inhabitants, with a complex tapestry of history, economic growth, and social tensions. Our first entry point, Jorge Chávez International Airport, was bustling, reflecting Lima’s role as a commercial hub. Driving into the city from the airport, we encountered the characteristic mix of colonial architecture and modern high-rises, both hemmed in by sprawling neighbourhoods that stretch toward the foothills of the Andes.

Plaza Mayor, Lima

During our year in South America, we went through Lima five times, as with so many countries in the region, Lima acts as the principal transport hub and thus it is difficult to avoid.  We stayed both in the Centro Historico and in Miraflores.  Our first visit was to pick up the Dragoman 19-day Lima to Quito leg of their loop round South America, picking up the same truck that we left off in Santiago de Chile. Which had largely followed the same route we took to La Paz together with their route from La Paz through Cusco and Southern Peru.  Our journey was much slower, and we picked up the Southern Peru leg in our later visits to Lima.

The start hotel for Dragoman was the Hotel Kamana, a functional hotel in the old town.  We also stayed there one other time.  For our other trips we stayed in the more luxurious Casa Andina Miraflores and once at Holiday Inn by Lima Airport when we needed to catch our early morning flight to Kuelap.

On the 17^th May 2018 we felt a 5.2 magnitude earthquake at 6:07am.  The epicentre was a 100 or kilometres south of Lima. The old hotel gave off a big crack but no damage was done, experiencing a biggish earthquake felt different in an old building in Lima as opposed to a modern tower block with all the best modern building techniques in Santiago de Chile..

Geography & Climate

Lima’s geography is defined by its location on a coastal desert strip, which means that despite being near the ocean, the city rarely experiences rain. Instead, the city is cloaked in a thick sea mist, known as the garúa, during winter months, which often renders the city in shades of grey. We experienced this in June and August, when the persistent mist gave Lima a dreary atmosphere, in stark contrast to the colourful vibrancy of its streets and plazas.

Lima’s environmental challenges are significant. Despite its desert climate, water scarcity is a pressing issue, as the city relies heavily on rivers fed by Andean glaciers, which are shrinking due to climate change. Furthermore, the city’s rapid urbanisation has led to severe air pollution. Vehicle emissions and dust contribute to poor air quality, especially in the congested downtown areas. The Rímac River, once a vital lifeline, is heavily polluted, adding to the environmental strain the city faces.

History, Economics & Politics

As the capital of the Spanish Viceroyalty of Peru, Lima was once the most important city in Spanish South America. Founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535, the city became a hub for the vast wealth extracted from the Incan Empire, and its colonial architecture reflects this heritage. The imposing Plaza Mayor, the site of Pizarro’s proclamation of the city, remains the political and historical heart of Lima, surrounded by the Government Palace and the Lima Cathedral.

Francisco Pizarro (ca. 1475–1541) was one of the most prominent Spanish conquistadors, best known for leading the expedition that conquered the Inca Empire. Pizarro first arrived in the New World in 1502 and soon made a name for himself by participating in expeditions across the Caribbean and Central America. In 1532, with a small group of men, he launched a daring attack on the Inca Empire, capturing the Inca emperor Atahualpa at the Battle of Cajamarca. Pizarro’s conquest led to the establishment of Spanish control over Peru and the vast wealth that followed, mainly in the form of silver extracted from mines like Potosí. In 1535, he founded the city of Ciudad de los Reyes, now known as Lima, to serve as the capital of the Spanish Viceroyalty of Peru. Despite his achievements, Pizarro’s life ended violently when he was assassinated in Lima in 1541 by followers of a rival conquistador. His legacy remains controversial, admired by some for his audacity but criticised for the devastating impact of the conquest on indigenous populations.

In 2018, Lima was grappling with the fallout from a major political scandal. The newly elected president had resigned amid corruption charges related to the Odebrecht scandal, which also implicated Brazilian political figures such as Lula da Silva. This political instability was palpable during our visits, with frequent demonstrations in the Plaza Mayor and an omnipresent police force. At times, we witnessed the square being locked down by riot police and water cannon trucks, a testament to the political volatility of the period.

Economically, Lima remains the financial centre of Peru. Despite steady growth in sectors such as mining and agriculture, income inequality is stark, with the affluent districts of Miraflores and San Isidro a world away from the poverty experienced in the city’s sprawling outskirts. The tension between economic development and social inequity forms the backdrop to many of the political protests we witnessed.

Plaza de Armas, Palacio de Gobierno, Lima, Peru

Culture

Lima’s culture is a blend of colonial heritage, indigenous traditions, and modern cosmopolitanism. One of the most striking experiences of 2018 was the city’s World Cup fever. For the first time since 1982, Peru qualified for the tournament, and the red-and-white diagonal striped shirts of the national team could be seen everywhere. The excitement, though dampened by an early exit, was a source of national pride, with the city abuzz with the hope of a footballing renaissance.

Lima’s World-Class Food Scene

Lima has established itself as one of the world’s premier culinary destinations, blending traditional Peruvian ingredients with innovative techniques to create a food scene that rivals any global city. The city is home to several restaurants ranked among the best in the world, offering everything from fine dining to street food.

Famous Dishes

1. Ceviche Lima is most famous for its ceviche, a dish made from fresh raw fish marinated in lime juice, onions, and ají (chili peppers). The acid from the lime “cooks” the fish, giving it a firm texture and a tangy flavour. It’s traditionally served with camote (sweet potato), cancha (toasted corn kernels), and choclo (large-kernel corn). Peruvian ceviche is renowned for its simplicity and freshness, and Lima’s coastal location ensures the fish is always of the highest quality.
2. Lomo Saltado A reflection of Peru’s multicultural influences, Lomo Saltado is a stir-fry dish that combines beef, onions, tomatoes, and soy sauce, a nod to the Chinese immigrants who settled in Peru. It’s typically served with both rice and fries, making it a satisfying and hearty dish.
3. Ají de Gallina This comforting dish consists of shredded chicken in a rich, creamy sauce made from ají amarillo(yellow chili pepper), milk, bread, and cheese. It’s often served with boiled potatoes and hard-boiled eggs, reflecting the fusion of Spanish and native Andean ingredients.
4. Anticuchos A popular street food, anticuchos are skewers of marinated and grilled meat, often made from beef heart. The marinade typically includes garlic, vinegar, and ají panca (a mild, smoky chili pepper), which gives the meat a distinctive flavour.
5. Causa This is a unique Peruvian dish made from mashed yellow potatoes, seasoned with lime, ají, and oil, then layered with fillings such as avocado, tuna, or chicken salad. The use of native Peruvian potatoes gives this dish a unique texture and flavour, making it a must-try for those seeking a taste of traditional Andean cuisine.

World-Class Restaurants in Lima
Several of Lima’s restaurants have garnered international acclaim, regularly appearing on lists of the world’s best:

1. Central
   Ranked as one of the top restaurants in the world, Central, led by chef Virgilio Martínez, takes diners on a journey through Peru’s diverse ecosystems. The tasting menu, called Mater Elevations, explores ingredients sourced from different altitudes, from the Amazon to the Andes, and presents them in innovative and artistic ways.
2. Maido
   Maido, headed by Mitsuharu Tsumura, is famous for its Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Peruvian and Japanese traditions. The restaurant’s tasting menus artfully combine flavours like sea urchin with Peruvian corn and ceviche with Japanese influences, showcasing the best of both worlds.
3. Astrid y Gastón
   This restaurant, founded by Gastón Acurio, one of Peru’s most celebrated chefs, helped put Lima on the global food map. Astrid y Gastón offers an elegant take on traditional Peruvian dishes, such as ceviche and rocoto relleno (stuffed peppers), with a focus on showcasing indigenous ingredients and Peru’s culinary diversity.  While we didn’t make it to Acurio’s Lima restaurant, nevertheless we did manage to get a table at his Arequipa restaurant and if possible it is certainly worth the effort in locating a table at one of his restaurants.
4. La Mar
   For a more casual yet still iconic experience, La Mar offers some of the best ceviche in Lima. This cevichería, also under the direction of Gastón Acurio, specialises in fresh seafood dishes and is popular for its vibrant atmosphere and coastal flavours.  During our visit to Lima, we managed to get a table at this iconic restaurant for Sunday lunch and it was every bit as good as everyone says

Pisco Sour, La Mar Restaurant, Lima, Peru

Pisco and the Pisco Sour

Pisco is Peru’s national spirit, a type of brandy made by distilling fermented grape juice. It holds a special place in Peruvian culture and is produced in several regions, most notably in Ica and Pisco along the coast. There are several varieties of pisco, each offering a distinct flavour profile depending on the grape variety used. The two primary categories of pisco are:

1. Pisco Puro: Made from a single variety of grape, this type showcases the pure essence of the grape used. The most common types of Pisco Puro are made from Quebranta, Mollar, or Negra Criolla grapes. Quebranta is the most common grape used in the production of pisco and gives a smooth and balanced flavour.
2. Pisco Acholado: This variety is a blend of different grape types, resulting in a complex and rich flavour. The combination of aromatic and non-aromatic grapes creates a more nuanced pisco, ideal for those who enjoy a bit of variety in their palate.
3. Pisco Mosto Verde: One of the most prestigious types of pisco, Mosto Verde is made from partially fermented grape juice, meaning the fermentation process is interrupted before all the sugar is converted to alcohol. This gives the pisco a slightly sweeter, more fruity profile. It’s typically regarded as a more premium option.

Each of these varieties can be enjoyed neat, as the complexity of the grape distillation offers a unique taste experience, but pisco is also the key ingredient in Peru’s most famous cocktail.  There is a fierce rivalry between Peru and Chile over the origin of Pisco.

The Pisco Sour is Peru’s national cocktail, a refreshing and balanced drink combining the smoothness of pisco with citrus, sweetness, and a hint of bitterness. The classic recipe includes: – 2 oz pisco – 1 oz fresh lime juice (preferably from the small, intensely flavoured Peruvian limes) – ¾ oz simple syrup, essentially dissolved sugar in water – 1 egg white – A few drops of Angostura bitters The cocktail is shaken vigorously with ice to create a frothy texture from the egg white, which gives the Pisco Sour its signature smooth top. It’s then garnished with a dash of Angostura bitters to add a slight herbal note and visual contrast. The balance between the citrus and the sweetness makes it an ideal companion for Lima’s cuisine, especially ceviche.

Plaza Mayor, Lima

Principal Sites in Lima and Miraflores

Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Armas)
Plaza Mayor, also known as Plaza de Armas, is the heart of Lima’s historical centre. It has been the city’s main square since the foundation of Lima on 18 January 1535 by Francisco Pizarro, the Spanish conquistador. Pizarro’s influence can still be felt in this grand space, where some of the city’s most significant colonial-era buildings stand. The Plaza Mayor was central to the early Spanish colonial administration of Peru and has witnessed numerous historical events, including the proclamation of Peru’s independence in 1821.

The square is surrounded by yellow ochre-painted buildings, creating a visually striking harmony, with the Catedral de Lima (Lima Cathedral) dominating the scene. The meticulously maintained gardens around the square add to its grandeur.

Plaza del Armas and Catedral de Lima, Lima

Catedral de Lima (Lima Cathedral)
The Catedral de Lima, or the Metropolitan Cathedral of Lima, dates back to the very founding of the city in 1535. Over the centuries, it has been rebuilt and remodelled numerous times, reflecting the evolving architectural tastes of the colonial elite. The current building features a Baroque and Renaissance design with impressive chapels inside.

One of the cathedral’s most fascinating features is the burials of early colonial figures, including Francisco Pizarro, are buried. Pizarro’s tomb, while modest, is symbolic of his role in the conquest of the Inca Empire and the foundation of Lima. The cathedral also boasts altars richly adorned with gold and silver – materials extracted from the riches of the Spanish Empire.

As with many important religious sites built during the Spanish conquest, the Catedral was built on the Inca shrine of the Puma Inti and the palace of one of the Inca princes, Sinchi Puma.  Thereby imposing the Catholic religion over and above all indigenous ones and acting a visible symbol of the power of the Spanish.

Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace)
Also known as the Palacio de Gobierno, the Government Palace is situated on the northern side of Plaza Mayor. This site has been the residence of Peru’s head of state since it was originally built as the house of Francisco Pizarro. It was Pizarro who laid the cornerstone of the original structure, which has been rebuilt several times since, with the current French Renaissance-style building dating back to 1937.

The palace is guarded by the Granaderos de Tarqui, an elite regiment, and is famous for its Changing of the Guard ceremony, which takes place daily.

Iglesia de San Francisco, Lima

Iglesia de San Francisco (Basílica y Convento de San Francisco)
The Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco is one of Lima’s most famous churches, dating back to 1673. Built in Baroque style, it’s known for its yellow façade, detailed stonework, and beautifully tiled cloisters. One of its most famous features is the network of catacombs beneath the church, where around 25,000 bodies were interred during the colonial period. The church is part of Lima’s UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its architectural and historical significance.

Jirón de la Unión
This pedestrian street links Plaza Mayor with Plaza San Martín and is one of the busiest commercial thoroughfares in the city. While the street itself is filled with modern shops, pharmacies, and cafés, above the storefronts lie relics of Lima’s architectural past, including Art Deco façades that give hints of the city’s early 20th-century development. Historically, this street was an elite promenade but now serves as a bustling avenue for locals.

Plaza San Martín and Jirón de la Unión, Lima

Plaza San Martín
The Plaza San Martín was inaugurated in 1921, on the centenary of Peru’s independence, and is named after José de San Martín, the Argentine general who played a crucial role in liberating Peru from Spanish rule. The plaza is framed by elegant neoclassical buildings, all of which are painted white to create a sense of unity and grandeur. The equestrian statue of San Martín at the centre of the square honours his role in South American independence.

Antiguo Estación Desamparados (Old Railway Station)
The Antiguo Estación Desamparados, the old railway station, is another of Lima’s architectural treasures. Built in 1912 during Peru’s railway boom, it served as the terminus for trains that connected Lima to the highlands, notably Huancayo. Today, the station no longer operates, but its façade remains a striking example of early 20th-century architecture in Lima. It now houses the Casa de la Literatura Peruana, a museum dedicated to Peruvian literature.

Casa de la Literatura Peruana, Lima, Peru

Literature

Peru has produced some of Latin America’s most influential literary figures, with the Latin American Boom generation marking a significant era for its writers. One of the most prominent names associated with Peruvian literature is the 2010 Nobel Prize in Literature winning Mario Vargas Llosa, but he is not alone. Other figures like César Vallejo and José María Arguedas have also played essential roles in shaping Peru’s literary identity.

While not all of these figure’s hail from Lima, its position as the nation’s capital and by far the largest city means that they all played an important role in Lima’s literary scene.  In addition, Mario Vargas Llosa ran for but failed to win the Peruvian presidency in 1990. As a result, he became a controversial figure especially with his transformation from the left to a much more conservative stance when he ran for president.

Vargas Llosa first major novel, La Ciudad y los Perros (“The Time of the Hero”, 1963), was set in a military academy in Lima, where Vargas Llosa himself had studied. The novel critiqued the authoritarianism and violence of the Peruvian military, marking Vargas Llosa as a politically engaged writer from the beginning of his career. Vargas Llosa’s works often reflect the complexities of Peruvian society, including themes of social inequality, corruption, and power. His novel La Casa Verde (1966) further solidified his standing, presenting a multi-layered narrative about life in the Peruvian jungle and coastal regions, blending both indigenous and Western influences. His most famous work, La Guerra del Fin del Mundo (“The War of the End of the World”, 1981), focuses on a rebellion in 19th-century Brazil but reflects broader themes of conflict between civilisation and barbarism, a recurring theme in Latin American literature.

Walking through the city and especially the numerous bookstores, one could feel the echoes of the intellectual debates that have shaped modern Peruvian identity.

Miraflores and El Parque del Amor

Miraflores is famed for its cliffside parks overlooking the Pacific Ocean, such as Parque Kennedy. Here, we found a more modern side of Lima, with boutique stores, chic restaurants, and the cosmopolitan vibe that attracts expatriates and tourists alike.

El Beso – Parque del Amor, Miraflores

The Larcomar shopping centre, built into the cliffs, offers panoramic ocean views, while Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan archaeological site, serves as a reminder of Lima’s deep history.

One of its most iconic spots is the Parque del Amor (Love Park), home to the famous sculpture El Beso (“The Kiss”) by Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín. This park is a tribute to romance and provides a peaceful contrast to the bustling streets of central Lima.

Artisan Markets are found all over Lima and Miraflores.  Behind the cathedral, we explored a number of the city’s artisan markets, filled with textiles, ceramics, and jewellery

Final Thoughts

Lima, Ciudad de los Reyes, is a city that both embraces its colonial past and forges its future with modernity. From the political tensions we witnessed to the jubilant World Cup celebrations, our time in the Peruvian capital highlighted the contrasts that define Lima. Whether marvelling at the colonial architecture of the Plaza Mayor or exploring the cosmopolitan streets of Miraflores, Lima offers a fascinating journey through Peru’s history, politics, and culture.

Dates: 16/05/2018 to 18/05/2018; 05/06/2018 to 06/06/2018; 26/06/2018 to 28/06/2018; 26/07/2018 to 27/07/2018 and 03/08/2018 to 06/08/2018 – Revised 03/11/2024