The 413km journey from Valparaíso to Mendoza has to be one of the most spectacular road trips in the world, crossing the Andes at the foothills of Aconcagua, the highest mountain outside the Himalayas, standing at 6,692 metres. The road on the Chilean side winds through multiple hairpin bends as it slowly ascends the foothills of Aconcagua, before passing through the Cristo Redentor Tunnel and into Argentina. The slopes on the Argentinian side are gentler, but the views of Aconcagua are breathtaking. This permanently snowcapped mountain dominates the landscape, rising under typically blue skies, as it rarely rains on the Argentinian side of the Andes.  During the journey we crossed the Argentina Chile land border for the sixth time!  However, crossing it by public bus made it even more time consuming as all passengers had to manually clear all their luggage through customs when most of the officials were on their lunch break.

In Mendoza we stayed in a well-equipped Airbnb close to Plaza Italia

Paso Los Libertadores, Chile and Aconcagua, Argentina

Geography and Climate

Mendoza lies in western Argentina, nestled in the eastern foothills of the Andes Mountains. The city sits at an altitude of around 746 metres (2,448 feet) above sea level, within a semi-arid zone characterised by very dry, sunny conditions. The surrounding landscape is dominated by Aconcagua, the highest peak outside the Himalayas, standing at 6,962 metres (22,841 feet). The proximity to the Andes ensures Mendoza enjoys a unique microclimate, with hot summers, cold winters, and very little rainfall throughout the year. Irrigation from nearby rivers, especially the Mendoza and Tunuyán, plays a crucial role in the city’s wine industry, ensuring the fertile soil can support grape production.

Mendoza, Argentina’s fourth-largest metropolitan area, might feel smaller than its population suggests. Despite its size, it is relatively prosperous due to its position as the heart of Argentina’s wine industry, which has grown to become one of the largest globally, just behind Spain, Italy, and France. Mendoza is also known for its lush, irrigated vineyards and its proximity to the Andes, offering a rare combination of urban sophistication and stunning natural beauty.

Mendoza’s layout reflects its reconstruction following the devastating earthquake of 1861, which flattened the city. In the wake of the disaster, Mendoza was rebuilt with a classic grid pattern centred on Plaza Independencia, which is surrounded by four smaller squares – Plaza España, Plaza Italia, Plaza Chile, and Plaza San Martín – each representing a different aspect of the city’s history and cultural influences.

While the city itself is charming, with wide, leafy streets and cafes spilling onto pavements, its main appeal lies in the surrounding bodegas (wineries) and vineyards. This region is home to some of the best wine production in the world, offering visitors a chance to tour the vineyards, sample exquisite wines, and learn about the winemaking process in a setting framed by the snow-capped Andes.

History

Founded in 1561 by Spanish conquistador Pedro del Castillo, Mendoza originally served as an outpost along trade routes through the Andes. The city’s historical significance grew when it became a key player in the movement for Argentinian independence. General José de San Martín, one of the foremost leaders of South American independence, used Mendoza as his base to organise the crossing of the Andes in 1817, an iconic military campaign to liberate Chile and Peru from Spanish rule. However, Mendoza’s history was literally shaken in 1861 when a devastating earthquake flattened the city, leading to a total reconstruction.

Economy

Today, Mendoza is at the heart of Argentina’s viticulture, producing over 70% of the country’s wine. The wine industry, particularly focused on Malbec, has grown globally since the 1980s, with Mendoza wines consistently ranking among the best in the world. Tourism is also vital to the region’s economy, as visitors flock to explore the wineries (bodegas), as well as engage in outdoor activities such as mountain climbing, skiing, and trekking in the Andes. The region’s agriculture is further bolstered by fruit and olive production. Mendoza’s natural resources include not only fertile soil but also significant oil and gas reserves, contributing to its wealth.

Culture

Mendoza’s culture is deeply intertwined with its wine heritage, and the annual Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival) is one of Argentina’s most iconic celebrations, drawing visitors from all over the world. This festival celebrates the region’s deep-rooted agricultural traditions, with processions, music, dancing, and wine tastings. Mendoza’s cuisine complements its wine industry, featuring hearty dishes such as asado (barbecue) and empanadas to pair with its renowned Malbec. Architecturally, modern Mendoza reflects its late 19th-century reconstruction, designed around wide boulevards and plazas to prevent damage from future earthquakes.

Mendoza’s Wine Industry – Malbec and Beyond

The Malbec grape has become synonymous with Argentina, and nowhere is that association stronger than in Mendoza. The region is known for its world-famous Malbec, a rich, full-bodied red wine that has become a global favourite. However, Mendoza also produces other notable varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which thrive in the region’s dry, sunny climate. While the Malbec grape dominates, recent years have seen the rise of blends, which often combine Malbec with Cabernet Sauvignon to enhance complexity and ageing potential.

The vineyards benefit from Mendoza’s unique climate – it rarely rains, and the main threat to the grapes comes from the occasional hailstorm. Winemakers have adapted to these conditions with advanced techniques and a dedication to quality that has placed Argentinian wines on the global stage. Today, the region is known for producing Reserva wines aged in French oak barrels, adding layers of complexity to the flavour profiles. Historically, Argentine wines had a heavy oak taste, but modern winemaking has favoured a lighter touch, creating wines that are more nuanced and balanced.

Malbec grapes

Wine Tours – The Wineries We Visited

During our visit, we toured four distinct wineries arranged through Trout & Wine, each offering a unique perspective on Mendoza’s wine industry. Our trip coincided with the end of the grape harvest, allowing us to see many of the winemaking processes in action, from drying and crushing the grapes to the initial fermentation stages. We also sampled grapes still on the vine, their sweetness a perfect preview of the wines they would become.

1. Terrazas de los Andes – This modern winery, part of the LVMH Group, specialises in high-end wines but felt somewhat impersonal. The tour was limited in scope, with little exploration of the vineyards themselves.
2. Renacer – An independent Italian-owned winery with spectacular Tuscan-inspired architecture, Renacer was a highlight. The tour was thorough, providing insight into every step of the winemaking process. We witnessed much of the activity up close due to the harvest season.
3. Cabarena – A slightly more industrial operation but set against the stunning backdrop of Aconcagua. Here, we enjoyed a full tasting menu paired with carefully selected wines, creating a true gastronomic experience.
4. Mendel – A smaller, traditional winery, Mendel uses less modern technology and focuses on handcrafted processes. Despite its size, the quality of the wine was superb, with the top bottle being one of the best we tasted on the entire trip.

Mendoza Wineries

Mendoza’s Artisanal Scene

While Mendoza is primarily known for its wine, the city’s culinary and artisanal scenes are also worth exploring. Mendoza has a growing craft beer movement, with local breweries experimenting with traditional styles and local flavours. Breweries like Antares and Patagonia Brewing Co. are at the forefront of this scene, offering everything from hoppy IPAs to smooth stouts. These beers can be enjoyed in some of Mendoza’s lively cervecerías, where the city’s relaxed atmosphere and stunning mountain views make for the perfect afternoon.

Tasting menu at Cabarena Winery

In terms of food, Mendoza’s restaurant scene is deeply influenced by its wine culture. Many restaurants specialise in asado (traditional Argentine barbecue), with meats cooked over an open flame. Dishes are often paired with local wines, making for a complete culinary experience. The region’s wineries also feature gourmet restaurants, with Azafrán and 1884 Restaurante (run by famed chef Francis Mallmann) among the best-known.

Aconcagua – The Highest Peak in the Americas

The Mendoza region’s connection to Aconcagua cannot be overstated. The mountain dominates the landscape, serving as both a backdrop and a playground for adventurers. Aconcagua, at 6,692 metres, is the highest peak in the Americas and one of the Seven Summits. It attracts mountaineers from all over the world, with routes ranging from challenging technical climbs to more accessible trekking paths. The Aconcagua Provincial Park is a must-visit for those looking to experience the Andes up close, whether hiking through the foothills or embarking on a full-scale expedition to the summit.

For those not inclined to climb, Aconcagua provides stunning photo opportunities, especially during the winter months when its snow-covered peak stands in stark contrast to the clear blue skies of Mendoza’s vineyards.

Wineries, Mendoza, Argentina

World Malbec Day – A Celebration of Argentina’s Signature Grape

We were fortunate enough to visit Mendoza during World Malbec Day, celebrated every year on 17th April. In honour of the event, the city’s fountains were dyed red, symbolising the city’s deep connection to its wine industry. The celebration took place in Plaza Independencia, where in the bright sunshine, the red water from the fountains was accompanied by a vibrant rainbow – a fitting tribute to Mendoza’s most famous export.

Plaza Independencia, Mendoza, Argentina

Final Thoughts

Mendoza is a region that perfectly balances the rugged beauty of the Andes with the refined elegance of its world-class wines. Whether sampling Malbec at a high-end winery, dining in one of the city’s renowned restaurants, or simply admiring the imposing presence of Aconcagua, Mendoza offers an unforgettable experience. With its stunning landscapes, growing artisanal beer scene, and deep cultural roots, Mendoza remains one of Argentina’s most captivating destinations.

Date: 13/04/2018 to 17/04/2018