After a night in Uyuni, we made our way the 204kms to Potosí, a city with a profound history of wealth and tragedy. Potosí, at an altitude of 4,090 metres (13,420 feet), is one of the highest cities in the world and became a booming centre during the colonial period, thanks to the rich silver mines of Cerro Rico (“Rich Hill”). During the 16th century, the city was one of the largest in the world, boasting a population of over 200,000 at its peak. The vast quantities of silver extracted here fuelled the global economy and made Potosí one of the most significant cities in the Spanish Empire.
In Potosí we stayed in a beautifully restored old colonial mansion Hostal Colonial Potosí.
On our arrival in Potosí on 7th May 2018, we were fortunate to witness a grand festival that filled the streets with energy. Every school in the city and surrounding areas paraded down to the central Plaza 10 de Noviembre. The schoolchildren were smartly dressed, with the girls in high heels and makeup, and the boys with slicked-back hair. Each group was accompanied by marching bands and flag carriers, creating a lively, colourful procession. Despite the traditional spectacle, the teenagers added a modern touch, playing with their mobile phones in between their roles in the parade. This event offered a vivid glimpse into the local community’s pride and spirit, as well as a fascinating blend of old and new in Bolivian culture.
Festival, Potosí, Bolivia
Geography and Climate
Potosí is located in the arid, high-altitude plateau of the Bolivian Altiplano, surrounded by rugged mountains and overshadowed by Cerro Rico, which dominates the landscape. The climate here is dry and harsh, with cold nights year-round. Average temperatures range between 1°C to 14°C (34°F to 57°F), and it’s not unusual to experience frost even in the warmer months. The area receives minimal rainfall, mostly between November and March, but dust and wind are constant companions due to the barren, rocky landscape.
Historical Context
Founded in 1545 after the discovery of silver in Cerro Rico, Potosí quickly grew into one of the most important cities in the Spanish Empire. The silver mined from Cerro Rico was transported to Spain via an arduous journey that involved shipping across the Atlantic. From Potosí, the precious metal was transported by mule trains through the Andes to the Pacific coast, where it was shipped to Panama. There, the silver crossed the isthmus before being loaded onto Spanish galleons destined for Europe. These ships faced constant danger from pirates, particularly from rival nations like England. Notorious figures such as Sir Francis Drake attacked these treasure-laden ships, eager to seize the silver and other riches. This led to fierce naval battles along the Spanish Main, a term for the Caribbean and Central American waters where these piracy threats were most acute.
Today, shipwrecks containing Potosí’s silver have been discovered off the coasts of Colombia and Cuba, sparking a legal battle over rightful ownership. Bolivia’s lack of a coastline, which it lost to Chile in the War of the Pacific in the late 19th century, complicates its claim to these treasures. Although Bolivia once had access to the sea, its landlocked status now hinders its ability to lay claim to these lost riches, deepening the historical wound caused by its loss of maritime territory.
Potosí’s boom came at a terrible human cost. Indigenous people, African slaves, and local miners were forced to work in the gruelling and often deadly conditions of the Cerro Rico mines. Over the centuries, it is estimated that millions of workers perished due to the harsh conditions, accidents, and mercury poisoning. The term “to be worth a Potosí” became a saying to indicate immense wealth in the 16th and 17th centuries, yet this wealth was built on the suffering of many.
As silver deposits dwindled in the late 18th century, the city’s population plummeted to just 9,000 by the early 19th century. Today, while much of the silver mining has ceased, small-scale mining continues, primarily for tin. Despite its diminished importance, Potosí remains a poignant symbol of colonial exploitation and wealth.
Cerro Rico, Potosí, Bolivia
Economy and Modern Day
Mining still forms the backbone of Potosí’s economy, with tin, zinc, and lead replacing silver as the primary minerals extracted. The conditions in the mines remain perilous, and many miners still chew coca leaves to alleviate the effects of fatigue and altitude sickness. While some tourists opt to take mine tours, it’s worth considering the ethical implications of these visits, as they often feel voyeuristic, exploiting the suffering of miners for entertainment.
Tourism has become an increasingly important sector for the city, especially since Potosí was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. Visitors are drawn by the city’s rich colonial history, impressive architecture, and the tragic legacy of Cerro Rico. The city’s population has rebounded to around 175,000, supported by a mix of tourism, mining, and light industry.
Plaza 10 de Noviembre, Potosí, Bolivia
Colonial Architecture and Principal Sites
Potosí boasts an array of colonial-era buildings that harken back to its golden age. The city’s streets are lined with grand merchant houses, churches, and public buildings, all of which exude the wealth once generated by Cerro Rico’s silver.
Casa Real de la Moneda (The Royal Mint)
One of Potosí’s most important sites is the Casa Real de la Moneda, or Royal Mint, considered one of the finest museums in Bolivia. This vast colonial-era building served as the centre of silver coin production for the Spanish Empire. It houses extensive collections that tell the story of Potosí’s rise and fall, with exhibits on silver mining, coin minting, and the brutal conditions workers endured. The museum also highlights the global significance of Potosí’s silver, including the origin of the dollar sign ($), derived from the PTSI mint mark used on Potosí silver coins.
The preserved rooms in the mint, where workers once smelted and hammered silver into coins, provide a stark glimpse into the toxic, mercury-laden environment that claimed many lives. A tour of the Casa Real de la Moneda offers not only historical insight but also a sobering look at the human cost of wealth extraction.
Casa Real de la Moneda, Plaza 10 de Noviembre, Catedral de Potosí, Potosí Bolivia
Santa Teresa Convent
The Santa Teresa Convent, a Carmelite convent founded in 1685, is another key site in Potosí. It offers visitors a glimpse into the cloistered lives of the city’s elite daughters, many of whom were sent here as nuns, never to leave the convent again. The convent is adorned with religious artwork and treasures, donated by the wealthy families who paid dowries for their daughters’ entry. The contrast between the convent’s grandeur and the nuns’ austere lives is striking, and the guided tour through its quiet courtyards and hidden chambers is both fascinating and reflective.
Churches and Central Plaza
The Plaza 10 de Noviembre, Potosí’s main square, is surrounded by colonial landmarks, including the grand Catedral de Potosí. Built in the early 19th century in the Neoclassical style, the cathedral dominates the square with its twin towers and imposing facade. Other significant churches include the Iglesia de San Lorenzo, with its intricately carved Baroque portal, and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, a Jesuit church that showcases some of the finest examples of colonial architecture in the city.
Hostal Colonial Potosí, Mercado Central, Cathedral Basilica of Potosí, Potosí, Bolivia
Mercado Central
The Mercado Central is a bustling marketplace where locals buy and sell everything from fresh produce to artisanal crafts. It’s a great place to sample traditional Bolivian fare, such as salteñas (a type of empanada filled with meat, potatoes, and spices), chicharrón (crispy fried pork), and hearty soups like sopa de mani (peanut soup). Coca leaves are also widely sold here, and you’ll find them in teas and other products meant to help with the high altitude.
Local Products: Food and Drink
Potosí’s harsh environment has shaped its traditional cuisine, which is hearty and filling. Key ingredients include potatoes, corn, and quinoa, all of which have been staples of the Andean diet for centuries. A popular local dish is llaucha, a thick corn-based bread stuffed with cheese, which can be found in markets and street stalls. Llama and alpaca meat, both high in protein and well-suited to the high altitude, are also commonly served, often in stews or grilled.
One of the city’s more curious claims to fame is that it is home to the world’s highest commercial brewery, producing Cerveza Potosina. This local beer is well-regarded, and its crisp, refreshing flavour is a welcome treat after a day of exploring the high-altitude city.
Cerveza Potosina, Santa Teresa Convent, Potosí, Bolivia
UNESCO World Heritage Status
Potosí was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987 due to its outstanding representation of the colonial-era mining industry and its architectural heritage. The listing recognises both the city’s historical significance and the tragic exploitation of indigenous and African slave labour in the mines. UNESCO’s involvement has helped preserve many of the city’s colonial buildings and raised awareness about the importance of Potosí in world history.
Final Thoughts
Potosí is a city that evokes both awe and reflection. Its once immeasurable wealth came at a high human cost, a story that is etched into the walls of its grand colonial buildings and in the depths of Cerro Rico. The city’s surviving historical sites offer a glimpse into the opulence of its past, while its modern-day residents continue to live with the legacies of the mines. Visitors to Potosí will not only encounter a UNESCO World Heritage Site but will also walk in the shadows of a city that shaped the global economy centuries ago.
Dates: 07/05/2018 to 09/05/2018 (Revised 03/11/2024)