Two days out of Buenos Aries we finally arrived at our first Patagonian town, Puerto Madryn, famous for its unique Welsh culture in Argentina and access to the wildlife at the Valdés Peninsula. In Puerto Madryn we camped at the ACA Campsite just out of town and across the road from the beach.  Dragoman journeys typically offer a number of activities and we chose to visit the famous Valdés Peninsula to observe the wildlife there.

Puerto Madryn

Puerto Madryn, situated along the Golfo Nuevo in Chubut province, is a gateway to the remote region of Argentine Patagonia. Established by Welsh settlers in the mid-19th century, the town retains much of its cultural heritage while serving as a major hub for eco-tourism and a base for exploring the nearby UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Valdés Peninsula (Península Valdés). Puerto Madryn has seen rapid growth in recent decades, partly due to government incentives aimed at promoting the settlement of Patagonia. With a population of around 115,000, Puerto Madryn’s transformation from a small, isolated community into a vibrant town has been closely tied to these efforts.

History and Welsh Heritage

In 1865, the first Welsh settlers arrived aboard the Mimosa, landing in what is now Puerto Madryn. Seeking a place to preserve their language, religion, and way of life, they found Patagonia to be an ideal location, far removed from British influence. The town was named after Sir Love Jones-Parry’s Welsh estate, “Madryn Castle.” Though Puerto Madryn has developed significantly, Welsh cultural imprints remain, particularly in the surrounding towns of Trelew and Gaiman, where traditional Welsh tea houses, like Ty Gwen, Casa de Té, serve a piece of Welsh culture in the heart of Argentina. Visitors can experience this blend of cultures through traditional cakes, including Argentine favourites with dulce de leche, alongside Welsh scones.

Geography and Climate

Puerto Madryn is located on the edge of the Patagonian steppe, a semi-arid and sparsely vegetated region. The town’s location on the Golfo Nuevo provides it with a sheltered harbour, while the surrounding land is largely flat, barren, and desert-like. The nearby Valdés Peninsula juts out into the Atlantic Ocean, forming the Golfo San José and Golfo Nuevo. The climate is dry, with warm summers reaching up to 30°C, and cool winters averaging around 10°C. Though the land may appear inhospitable, it supports a wide variety of unique wildlife, particularly along the coastline.

Government Incentives for Patagonia

In recent decades, the Argentine government has made efforts to encourage the population to migrate to Patagonia, which has long been sparsely populated. One of the key strategies includes a 40% wage increase for those willing to move to this remote region. This policy is intended to boost the population and economic development of Patagonia, bringing more industries and services to places like Puerto Madryn. The town’s transformation over the last 50 years, from a small settlement to a growing urban centre, is a direct result of such initiatives.

Península Valdes, Argentina

Valdés Peninsula – Unique Wildlife

The Valdés Peninsula, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, is a stark yet biologically rich landscape. Its windswept plains and treeless terrain may seem inhospitable, but the surrounding waters teem with marine life. The peninsula’s remote beaches are critical breeding grounds for species such as the southern right whale (eubalaena australis), sea lions (otaria flavescens), and elephant seals (mirounga leonina).  Although southern right whales draw the most attention from June to December, visitors can observe these magnificent creatures up close all year round and particularly during the breeding season when family groups form large colonies along the coast.

Elephant seals live in harems led by dominant males, who can weigh up to three tonnes, and defend groups of up to 20 females during the breeding season. These harems form tight-knit family groups, with males using their size and strength to maintain control.  In contrast, the smaller but equally impressive sea lions create a cacophony of sound along the beaches as they breed, feed, and defend their territories.

For those of you familiar with Attenborough’s Blue Planet, the Valdes Peninsular is where orcas (orcinus orca) beach themselves to pick off the young elephant seals from the sandy beaches. This time, as the principal season is between October and November, we did not see any orcas but for those lucky enough the drama must be spectacular.

Sea Lions, Elephant Seals, Magellan Penguins, Armadillo and Burrowing Owl at Valdés Peninsula

Birdwatchers are treated to sightings of Magellanic penguins (spheniscus magellanicus), who nest on the sandy shores of the peninsula. The penguin colonies offer an unforgettable sight, particularly during breeding season, as they stand in rows and dig burrows in the sand. Alongside the penguins are the burrowing owls (athene cunicularia), which make their nests in the ground and share the coastal region with the penguins. These small, long-legged owls are a curious sight, often perching atop mounds or standing at the entrance to their burrows.

The barren landscape of the Valdés Peninsula is home to tough, drought-resistant shrubs and grasses, which form the base of the ecosystem. These plants support herbivores like the guanaco (Lama guanicoe), a cousin of the llama, and the Patagonian mara (Dolichotis patagonum), a large rodent resembling a hare. Bird species abound, from the elegant South American terns to the steamer ducks along the coast. The region’s unique wildlife and sparse flora combine to create a dramatic and unforgettable natural setting.

Welsh Tea Rooms of Trelew

Just south of Puerto Madryn lies Trelew, another town with a strong Welsh heritage. Trelew was named after Lewis Jones, a prominent Welsh settler, and remains a cultural centre for Welsh traditions in Patagonia. Visitors flock to places like Ty Gwen, Casa de Té, one of the best-known Welsh tea rooms in the region, where they can enjoy a traditional Welsh afternoon tea. The menus feature both classic Welsh treats and Argentine adaptations, such as cakes enriched with dulce de leche. The mix of cultural influences makes these tea rooms an essential stop for those interested in the history of Welsh immigration to Argentina.

Ty Gwyn Tea House, Gaiman, Argentina

Language and Culture

The Welsh settlers brought their language and customs with them, and although most people today speak Spanish, echoes of Welsh influence remain in the region. The Welsh language has largely faded from daily use, but it survives in festivals and bilingual signage. Interestingly, the Spanish spoken in Trelew and Puerto Madryn bears certain Welsh linguistic influences, with a unique rhythm and cadence. For older generations, the influence is more pronounced, giving the local dialect a distinct sound compared to other regions of Argentina.

Final Thoughts

Puerto Madryn offers an unusual yet fascinating blend of Welsh culture and Patagonian wildlife. From the sprawling marine colonies of the Valdés Peninsula to the Welsh tea rooms of Trelew, the region is a unique cultural and ecological destination. Visitors can experience the charm of a Welsh afternoon tea followed by an exploration of some of the most impressive wildlife Patagonia has to offer, making Puerto Madryn an essential stop on any Patagonian itinerary.

Dates: 07/03/2018 & 08/03/2018 – Dragoman Days 4 & 5