Southern Peru is a region rich in ancient history, adventure, and stunning natural beauty. In this blog, we cover our journey to three key destinations: the enigmatic Nazca Lines, the desert oasis of Huacachina, and the wildlife haven of Paracas. Whether you’re intrigued by archaeological mysteries, thrill-seeking in the sand dunes, or observing marine life, this part of Peru has something for every traveller.
Nazca: Mysterious Geoglyphs and Desert History
Overview
Nazca is a small town in southern Peru, located in the heart of one of the driest deserts in the world. Despite its unassuming appearance, Nazca is globally renowned for the Nazca Lines, an array of massive ancient geoglyphs that stretch across the desert floor.
The PeruHop journey of 568km from Arequipa to Nazca was delayed several hours because the bus was caught up in a snowstorm before arriving at Arequipa, However, our small hotel, the Nazca Travel One Hotel, kept our room for us and looked after us well, dealing with transport etc. to the principal sites etc.
Hummingbird, Tree by Pan American Highway
History of the Nazca Lines
The Nazca Lines were created by the Nazca civilisation between 100 BCE and 800 CE, using simple tools to scrape away the dark top layer of the desert to reveal lighter-coloured soil underneath. These geoglyphs have survived for over 1,500 years due to the region’s stable, windless climate and extreme aridity.
The Nazca Line were rediscovered in the 1920s by Peruvian archaeologist Toribio Mejía Xesspe, though the most comprehensive studies were conducted by Maria Reiche, a German mathematician who dedicated her life to researching the lines. She believed they had astronomical significance, possibly aligning with the stars or solstices, although their true purpose remains a mystery.
Nazca is a small town in southern Peru, located in the heart of one of the driest deserts in the world. Despite its unassuming appearance, Nazca is globally renowned for the Nazca Lines, an array of massive ancient geoglyphs that stretch across the desert floor. These enigmatic figures, etched into the ground by the Nazca civilisation between 100 BCE and 800 CE, continue to puzzle and fascinate archaeologists and visitors alike.
In recognition of their global importance, the Nazca Lines were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. The lines are considered an outstanding cultural treasure and represent one of the most significant examples of pre-Columbian engineering and artistic expression. The UNESCO listing acknowledges the lines’ archaeological value, but also highlights the need to protect the site from environmental damage and human interference.
Geography & Climate
The region’s extreme aridity and stable climate have preserved the Nazca Lines for over 1,500 years, allowing these geoglyphs to remain virtually unchanged since their creation. The desert is one of the driest places on Earth, with virtually no rainfall and a hot desert climate that can reach 35°C during the day.
Principal Nazca Glyphs
The Nazca Lines include hundreds of straight lines, geometric shapes, and animal figures, also known as biomorphs. Among the most significant geoglyphs are:
- The Hummingbird (Colibri), a delicate figure with a length of 96 meters, known for its graceful design.
- The Monkey (Mono), easily recognised for its spiralling tail, measuring 93 meters long. This figure’s tail has been adopted into Peruvian marketing and promotional campaigns.
- The Spider (Araña), a symbol of fertility, believed to be associated with water and rainfall in ancient mythology, stretching 46 meters.
- The Condor (Cóndor), representing the sacred bird of the Andes, spans 134 meters in length and is one of the largest figures.
- The Tree (Árbol) and The Hands (Las Manos), both visible from the roadside observation tower along the Pan-American Highway. The Hands feature one hand with five fingers and the other with four, a mystery, scholars have long debated.
- The Lizard (Lagartija), another prominent figure, had its tail bisected when the Pan-American Highway was built through the desert.
Nazca Lines
Erich von Däniken’s Theory
One of the more controversial theories about the Nazca Lines comes from Swiss author Erich von Däniken, who famously suggested in his 1968 book Chariots of the Gods that the lines were created as landing strips for extraterrestrial spacecraft. Though widely dismissed by archaeologists, von Däniken’s hypothesis helped bring international attention to the Nazca Lines and continues to be a topic of debate for fans of ancient astronaut theories.
Flying Over the Lines
The best way to experience the vast scale of the Nazca Lines is by taking a light aircraft flight. Flights depart from Maria Reiche Airport in Nazca and last approximately 30 minutes, giving passengers a bird’s-eye view of the famous geoglyphs. Due to strict weight controls, passengers are often weighed before boarding, and seating arrangements are carefully adjusted to ensure balance in the small planes. Each plane is equipped with large windows to ensure every passenger has a clear view.
For those preferring to stay on the ground, the observation tower along the Pan-American Highway allows views of The Tree and The Hands, but a flight provides a much fuller perspective of the geoglyphs. On our journey out of Nazca, the PeruHop bus conveniently stopped at the observation tower to enable us to get close to a couple of the lines and truly appreciate close up literally how delicate and fragile they are.
Nazca Lines
Nazca Ceramics
The Nazca civilisation was known not only for its geoglyphs but also for its vibrant ceramics. Nazca pottery is characterised by bright colours and intricate designs depicting animals, plants, and mythological figures. These ceramics are some of the finest examples of ancient Peruvian art and often provide valuable insights into the culture’s religious beliefs and daily life.
Museo Antonini
A visit to the Museo Antonini in Nazca offers a deeper understanding of the Nazca civilisation and the surrounding archaeological sites. The museum houses a collection of artefacts, including pottery, textiles, and mummies from the nearby Cahuachi site. The museum’s exhibits also explore the engineering feats of the Nazca people, including their construction of underground aqueducts, known as puquios, which provided essential water in this arid environment.
Cahuachi: The Nazca’s Ceremonial Centre
Located near Nazca, the ancient site of Cahuachi was once a major ceremonial and religious centre for the Nazca civilisation. Cahuachi consists of a complex of pyramids, plazas, and temples made from adobe, where large gatherings and rituals were held. The site remains an active archaeological dig, with four pyramids having been excavated but many more still remain buried under the desert sands, so there are many of its secrets still to be revealed.
Cahuachi
Nazca Town
Nazca itself is a modest town, offering visitors a few local markets and restaurants where you can try traditional Peruvian dishes like rocoto relleno (stuffed spicy peppers) or ají de gallina (spicy chicken stew). It is a convenient base for exploring the geoglyphs and the surrounding desert region.
Huacachina: Desert Adventure and Oasis Relaxation
Our PeruHop bus then took us the short 153km journey to adventure town of Huacachina, where we stayed at La Casa de Bamboo, a relaxed hostel just a short walk from the oasis. It provided a friendly and welcoming atmosphere, and its central location made it ideal for exploring both the dunes and the lagoon.
Overview
The oasis of Huacachina, surrounded by towering sand dunes, is a small village built around a natural lagoon in the Ica Desert. This tiny desert outpost has become a favourite destination for adventure seekers looking to try dune buggy rides and sandboarding, with stunning desert landscapes as the backdrop.
Huacachina
Geography & Climate
Located just outside the city of Ica, Huacachina sits in the Ica Desert, known for its towering sand dunes and scorching temperatures. The lagoon, once believed to have healing properties, is surrounded by palm trees and used to be a retreat for wealthy Peruvians. Today, it’s a haven for tourists seeking desert thrills.
Adventure Activities: Dune Buggies and Sandboarding
Dune buggy rides are one of the most popular activities in Huacachina, with powerful buggies zooming across the sand dunes, offering a heart-pounding adventure. The drivers compete with each other, driving on adrenalin fuelled race up and down the sand dunes. Some of the driving is questionable to say the least, but the experience up and down the sand dunes is awesome.
Sandboarding is another must-try experience, allowing you to ride the dunes either standing up or lying down on your board, sliding at incredible speeds down the sand slopes.
Huacachina
Ica: Wine, Pisco, and Culture
Just a short drive away from Huacachina is the city of Ica, known for its vineyards and Pisco production. We visited El Catador Bodega, a renowned vineyard where we were guided through the traditional wine-making and pisco-distilling processes. We learned how grapes are still pressed by foot and how the fermented juice is distilled into pisco usingbotijas (clay jars). The bodega’s pisco puro and pisco acholado are celebrated for their crisp and bold flavours, and we enjoyed sampling the variety of pisco blends they produce.
Ica is also home to the Regional Museum of Ica, where artefacts from the Nazca and Paracas civilisations, including mummies and ceramics, provide insight into these ancient cultures.
El Catador Bodega, Ica
Paracas: Coastal Wildlife and Archaeology
The next stop on our PeruHop journey was the 75km to Paracas, where we stayed at the Bamboo Lodge Paracas, a modest beachfront hotel with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. Its proximity to the docks made it a convenient base for our excursions to the Ballestas Islands and the Paracas National Reserve.
Overview
Paracas is a small coastal town that serves as the gateway to two of Peru’s most significant natural and archaeological attractions: the Ballestas Islands and the Paracas National Reserve. Known for its marine life and breathtaking coastal landscapes, Paracas offers visitors the chance to explore both desert and ocean ecosystems.
Geography & Climate
Paracas is located along the Peruvian coast, where the Humboldt Current brings cool, nutrient-rich waters that support a thriving marine ecosystem. The town enjoys a mild desert climate, making it ideal for outdoor exploration year-round.
The Ballestas Islands: Marine Wildlife and the Guano Industry
A short boat trip from the Paracas docks takes you to the Ballestas Islands, often referred to as the “poor man’s Galápagos” due to their incredible biodiversity. The islands are home to:
- Humboldt Penguins (Spheniscus humboldti)
- South American Sea Lions (Otaria flavescens)
- Peruvian Boobies (Sula variegata)
- Cormorants (Leucocarbo bougainvilliorum)
- Inca Terns (Larosterna inca)
These creatures thrive on the rich food supply provided by the Humboldt Current. The islands are also known for their guano (bird droppings), once a valuable fertiliser that helped boost Peru’s economy in the 19th century.
Ballestas Islands
The Paracas Candelabra
As the boat speeds toward the islands, you’ll pass the Paracas Candelabra, a massive geoglyph etched into the hillside of the Paracas Peninsula. This mysterious figure, measuring 180 meters in height, is reminiscent of the Nazca Lines and can only be seen from the sea. The Paracas culture is thought to have created this symbol, though its exact purpose remains unknown.
Paracas Candelabra
Paracas National Reserve
The Paracas National Reserve is a vast desert expanse that stretches along the coast, offering stunning landscapes where the desert meets the ocean. The reserve is home to numerous species of birds, including flamingos and pelicans, and provides opportunities to explore remote beaches and cliffs. The contrasts of golden dunes and turquoise waters create a picturesque environment, perfect for hiking or simply taking in the views.
Julio C. Tello Museum
For those interested in archaeology, the Julio C. Tello Museum in Paracas showcases artefacts from the Paracas civilisation, which predated the Nazca culture. The museum houses a collection of Paracas textiles, some of the finest examples of ancient Andean weaving, as well as skulls showing evidence of cranial deformation, a practice associated with the elite of the Paracas people.
Final Thoughts
This comprehensive exploration of southern Peru, from the enigmatic Nazca Lines to the wildlife-rich Paracas coast, reveals the diversity and richness of the region’s cultural and natural heritage. Whether flying over ancient geoglyphs, sandboarding down towering dunes, or cruising past sea lions and penguins, the area offers a unique blend of adventure and discovery.
Dates: 22/07/2018 to 26/07/2018 – Revised 04/11/2024