Leaving Torres del Paine, our Dragoman truck took us a further 865kms into Argentinian Tierra del Fuego to a bush camp just the Argentinian side of the central border near the border crossing at San Sebastián.  The journey took us round Southern Chile to Punta Delgada where the ferry crossed the Magellan Strait into Chilean Tierra del Fuego which, although efficient today, it highlights the challenges early explorers must have faced when navigating these waters.  The bush camp was just off the main road, and in the morning the temperature was so cold that frost had appeared on our tents.

One of the quirks of travel in Tierra del Fuego is the repeated crossing of borders between Chile and Argentina. The island is divided by a straight line down the middle, requiring travellers heading to Ushuaia from Argentina to cross into Chile and then back into Argentina

From our bush camp the following day we completed the remaining 284kms to Ushuaia, via the small town of Tolhuin with its famous bakery, La Unión Panadería & Confitería, which makes excellent bread, empanadas and other savoury and sweet Argentinian snacks, also on its walls are some great pictures of a who’s who of the many famous Argentinian and international visitors over the years.

In Ushuaia we stayed at the Hostel del Glaciar Libertador, accommodation in Ushuaia is more expensive than many other places in Argentina, as is the cost of basic services including food and laundry.

Our return journey back to the mainland took us 160km north back across the frontier into Chile for another bush camp short of the ferry port to the mainland, travelling via the King Penguin colony at Reserva Natural Pingüino Rey a few kilometres inside Chile close to the principal border in the island.  With the restrictions of taking raw food across the border into Chile, for food that night we pre-cooked a big vat of stew, beef being good value in Argentina, to reheat over the camp stove.  We were allowed to take cooked food across the border.

Our final journey out of Tierra del Fuego took us the 300kms back across the Magellan Strait and then back into Argentina for another bush camp after a stop to purchase new supplies and have lunch in the furthest south town in mainland Argentina, Rio Galleagos.

Dragoman bus camping in Tierra del Fuego – Chile/Argentina, Magellan Strait & Ferry at Punta Delgado

Geography and Climate
Tierra del Fuego, located at the southernmost tip of South America, is known for its rugged, dramatic landscapes. The island is split between Chile and Argentina, with the majority of its population living in the southern parts around Ushuaia (Argentina) and Porvenir (Chile). Northern Tierra del Fuego is characterised by barren, treeless scrubland with relentless winds, while the southern region is more mountainous and fertile. The climate is typically cold, windy, and damp year-round, with winters seeing snowfall across the region and summers rarely reaching more than 15°C.

The island’s position between the Magellan Strait to the north and the Beagle Channel to the south places it at a crucial maritime crossroads. These waterways have been of immense historical significance for explorers like Ferdinand Magellan, who gave the strait its name, and Charles Darwin, who sailed through the Beagle Channel aboard the HMS Beagle. The Magellan Strait is notoriously difficult to navigate due to its narrow width and prevailing westerly winds, while the Beagle Channel is calmer and has become the primary route for shipping and cruise lines avoiding the turbulent waters around Cape Horn.

History and Explorers
Tierra del Fuego’s name, “Land of Fire,” originates from the fires set by the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam peoples, which were spotted by European explorers. Despite their initial resilience, the native population was decimated by European diseases introduced by settlers and missionaries. In addition, the adoption of European clothing, which was unsuitable for the harsh conditions, further weakened these communities.

Notable explorers like Magellan and Darwin are closely associated with the region. Magellan’s expedition was the first to navigate the eponymous strait in 1520, marking the opening of the southern route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Darwin, during his voyage on the HMS Beagle in the 1830s, studied the region’s geology and wildlife, leading to key observations that influenced his theory of evolution.

Tierra del Fuego – Wildlife
The wildlife of Tierra del Fuego is another draw for visitors:

King penguins (Aptenodytes patagonicus) have re-established a breeding colony at Reserva Natural Pingüino Rey, a few kilometres off the main road between Porvenir and the Argentinian border at San Sebastián, on the Chilean side of the island, where we witnessed these majestic birds on our return journey from Ushuaia.  Some of the penguins were still incubating eggs, while others were feeding their young, which were considerably fatter than the adults. Their plumage of the orange sash that sits between their black heads and white breasts makes them one of the most striking birds in the wild. 

Guanacos, the wild relatives of llamas, roam the open plains of northern Tierra del Fuego. Birdwatchers can spot condors, caracaras, and a variety of seabirds along the coastlines and mountainous areas.

The Beagle Channel is home to many sea lions (Otaria flavescens), Magellanic penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus), and imperial cormorants (Leucocarbo atriceps), adding to the island’s rich biodiversity.

Sea lions at Isla de los Lobos and Imperial Cormorants in the Beagle Channel, Argentina. King Penguins at Reserva Natural Pingüinu Ray, Chile

Economy
The economy of Tierra del Fuego is a unique mix of industries encouraged by both the Argentine and Chilean governments through tax incentives to promote settlement. In Ushuaia, the largest city in the region, tourism is a major industry, with its role as a gateway to Antarctica and Patagonia attracting thousands of visitors annually. Other industries include fishing, oil extraction, and limited manufacturing, supported by the government’s subsidies aimed at bolstering the southern economy.

La Unión Panadería & Confitería, Tolhuin and Ushuaia, fin del mundo, Argentina

Ushuaia – The City at the End of the World
Ushuaia, often referred to as the “city at the end of the world,” is the southernmost city in the world, with a population of around 80,000 inhabitants. Nestled between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, its unique location gives the city a rugged and remote charm. Ushuaia’s architecture reflects both its frontier spirit and its growth as a tourist hub. The town retains a remote charm, with its isolated position allowing visitors to feel as though they’ve reached the End of the World.

The city’s buildings range from utilitarian structures left over from its days as a penal colony to modern, colourful houses that mirror the architectural styles found in Patagonia, with wood and corrugated metal features. A more recent trend includes hotels and resorts built to accommodate the influx of tourists.

The city’s port serves as a gateway for both Antarctic expeditions and tourist cruises exploring the Beagle Channel. The channel, named after the HMS Beagle, aboard which Charles Darwin sailed, is one of the most popular attractions for visitors.

Ushuaia also holds a significant, albeit complex, connection with the Falkland Islands, known in Argentina as the Islas Malvinas. The city is a focal point of Argentine claims to the islands, and there are prominent memorials and signs referring to Argentina’s sovereignty over the territory. The port of Ushuaia plays a crucial role in logistics and supply routes for ships heading towards the Falklands, both during the 1982 Falklands War and in contemporary times. Despite the political tension, Ushuaia’s connection with the Falklands is important both economically and historically, with many tours and conversations in the city touching on this issue.

Beagle Channel Cruise and the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse
Cruises along the Beagle Channel offer breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and islands, while also providing opportunities to spot native wildlife such as sea lions, Magellanic penguins, and cormorants. One of the most iconic sights along the channel is the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse. Though often referred to as the “Lighthouse at the End of the World,” a name popularised by Jules Verne’s novel, the lighthouse is not actually at the world’s end, but its striking red and white structure set against the icy waters and distant mountains certainly gives it an otherworldly feel. The lighthouse has been guiding ships through these treacherous waters since 1920 and is a highlight of most Beagle Channel tours.

Beagle Channel & Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, Ushuaia, Argentina

Museo del Fin del Mundo and the former Ushuaia Prison
The city’s Museo del Fin del Mundo and the former Ushuaia Prison provide visitors with a deeper understanding of the region’s history, including its use as a penal colony in the early 20th century. The prison housed notorious criminals as well as political prisoners and became a harsh symbol of isolation. Today, it’s one of the key museums in the city, preserving the stories of Ushuaia’s past.

Environmental Concerns and Cultural Loss
Much of Tierra del Fuego’s original culture was lost due to the European diseases that wiped out most of the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam populations.

Tierra del Fuego has not been immune to more recent environmental challenges. In the 1940s, the Argentine government introduced beavers from Canada in a bid to stimulate the fur trade. With no natural predators, the beaver population exploded, causing severe damage to the island’s forests and waterways. Efforts to control the population have largely failed, leaving a lasting environmental impact. The pristine landscapes of Tierra del Fuego continue to be under pressure from both introduced species and climate change, making conservation efforts increasingly vital.

Rio Gallegos
Rio Gallegos, on the mainland, is the largest town in southern Argentina and serves as a hub for the region’s agriculture and oil industries. The town is steeped in political history, with its main street named after former president Néstor Kirchner, who hailed from the area. Rio Gallegos also holds a claim to fame as one of the towns where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, los bandidos norteamericanos, staged one of their famous bank robberies in 1905 at the the Banco de Londres y Tarapaca.

Literary Legacy
Bruce Chatwin’s In Patagonia remains a seminal work on the region, capturing the unique blend of wilderness, history, and myth that defines Tierra del Fuego. His stories, drawn from his travels through the area, have helped to immortalise the mystique of Patagonia and the southernmost reaches of the Americas.

Final Thoughts
Tierra del Fuego is an extraordinary region shaped by isolation, extremes, and a rich history. Its harsh, often unforgiving climate—icy winds, low temperatures, and rugged terrain—reflects the resilience of early explorers like Magellan, who braved these waters, scientists like Darwin and the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam, whose lives were deeply entwined with this land. The stark landscapes, crossing the Magellan Strait to Ushuaia and onward, offer a sanctuary for wildlife such as guanacos, king penguins, and sea lions. Exploring this “End of the World” is a journey through history, survival, and nature at its wildest.

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced & Prison, Ushuaia, Argentina

Dates: 18/03/2018 to 23/03/2018 Dragoman Days – 14 to 19 (Revised 03/11/2024)