Valparaíso, Chile’s most enigmatic city, sits on the Pacific Ocean and grew up as a key centre of the international shipping business, however it went into decline following the opening of the Panama Canal which redirected much of the shipping business away from Valparaiso and Southern South America.
During its heyday, the city grew up on the steep slopes that face the coast and boasts numerous colonial style houses clinging up on those slopes. Today, many of the old buildings are in a state some disrepair, but still maintain their original grandeur, while others have been faithfully preserved. Leading up to the upper parts of the city are a series of ancient funicular railways, again in varying state of repair, as spare parts for the old British or German funiculars probably went out of production almost 100 years ago, but are a key part of the city. Some are now being modernised and repaired and for those that still operate, for a nominal amount of CLP 100, they are a cheap and convenient method to climb to the many view points that exist in the upper part of town. Where one can explore the wonderful narrow streets which are still largely made up of the original buildings, many of which also sport some fantastic street art.
The main square by the port Plaza Sotomayor contains a number of important buildings, including a monument to the Naval War Chile fought with Peru, the large ex-Intendencia de Valparaíso, now occupied by the Navy with in its light blue paint, which seems to change colour with the changes in the sky and the nostalgically Hotel Reina Victoria complete with a British Navy Flag, an old pink coloured hotel that has seen better days. There is also an old Art Deco Fire Station funded by the Germans and Shipping Offices that have used the old frame of the building that would not be out of place in Liverpool, with a glass tower built in the middle full of modern offices that manage the nearby container port that exports much of Chile’s agricultural and industrial output. Raw materials and minerals are exported elsewhere.
Plaza Sotomayor and many of the old buildings and funiculars have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage and today there is some investment in preserving and maintaining many of Valparaíso’s unique heritage.
The twin Cerros Alegre and Concepción just above the main Plaza were built largely by British and German merchants and many of the street names reflect that heritage. Some of the mansions have been restored and painted in a variety of pastel colours that would not look out of place in an up market paint chart. Other buildings still wait renovation, with many for sale. At street level in this area is some of the best street art we have seen on our journey, and with some streets in Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina to compete with, that is a very high standard. Some artists clearly have multiple paintings as their styles are quite distinctive, furthermore the artwork is both actively maintained as we saw artists complete with their array of spray paint cans touching up and repairing their work, while new work continues to be created
Overlooking the new container port is Paseo 21 de Mayo, accessed by Ascensor Artillería, where some of the best panoramic views of the city are had. Equally fascinating is watching the modern container port operating, loading up containers using the latest modern technology onto the huge ships. Quite a contrast to all the old technology in the city. Alongside the funicular is the old wooden house Casa Quatro Ventos, one of Valparaíso’s most photographed buildings and has a most spectacular aspect.
Pablo Neruda had another of his three houses which are open to the public in Valparaíso, La Sebastiana. Rather like La Chascona in Santiago, this offers a wonderful time warp trip back to the 1960s and early 1970s, with an eclectic collection of artifacts, many associated with the sea. Both the main lounge and bedroom above it are rooms with panoramic views down the hills and to the sea below.
Valparaíso’s multiple cultural heritage has enabled some wonderful artisan beers to be developed and lots of quirky bars and restaurants to sample the beer as well as Chile’s more traditional wines and pisco.
Further up the coast is Viña del Mar a modern town full of modern condominiums international hotels and a sandy urban beach. All modern facilities are here, as one would expect in Chile, and while it is pleasant enough it lacks the charm that makes Valparaíso one of the most intriguing and enjoyable urban destinations on our travels so far.
Date: 10/04/2018 to 13/04/2018