Arequipa, often called “La Ciudad Blanca” (The White City), is a stunning colonial gem in southern Peru, known for its unique architecture built from white volcanic stone, or sillar, extracted from nearby volcanoes. Located at an altitude of 2,335 metres (7,660 feet), Arequipa is Peru’s second-largest city and one of its wealthiest, boasting a rich history and a flourishing economy.

With its warm climate and clear skies, Arequipa is a favourite destination for travellers seeking an alternative to the more tourist-heavy Cusco. The city is surrounded by impressive volcanoes, notably El Misti, Chachani, and Pichu Pichu, providing a dramatic backdrop to the city’s colonial architecture.

The most imposing of these is Volcán Misti, a near-perfect conical snow-capped stratovolcano that rises to 5,822 metres (19,101 feet). Misti is often visible throughout the city, casting a constant reminder of the region’s dramatic geological history. Its imposing presence adds to Arequipa’s unique character, defining the landscape that influences both the architecture and culture.  Over the years Volcán Misti has played an important role in the region’s geography and has provided the white volcanic stone (sillar) that gives Arequipa its nickname, “The White City.” It is still considered an active volcano, though its last major eruption was over 500 years ago. 

Volcán Misti

Arequipa was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 on the criteria of how the architecture in its historical centre integrates colonial European and indigenous characteristics coupled with the geographical and environmental nature of its setting.  For travellers who have visited several of the urban centres in Peru, Arequipa is often quoted as their favourite.

We visited Arequipa two times in our year in South America, the first time we took the domestic flight from Lima to Arequipa’s airport Aeropuerto Alfredo Rodríguez Ballón and then a flight to Cusco.  The second time was part of our Peru Hop journey round Southern Peru.  On our first visit we stayed in an Airbnb and on our second the Casona Plaza Hotel Arequipa.  On our departure by bus on 21^st July 2018, the bus was delayed arriving in Arequipa for several because of a big snow storm on route blocking some the mountain passes the road from Cusco.

Fiesta Patrias, Arequipa

Geography and Climate

Situated at an altitude of 2,328 metres (7,638 feet in a fertile valley surrounded by the Andes, Arequipa’s geography is defined by its proximity to several volcanoes. The city lies on the banks of the Chili River, and its moderate, sunny climate, with daytime temperatures hovering around 20–25°C (68–77°F) year-round, makes it a pleasant place to explore. Arequipa is in a seismically active region, and earthquakes are relatively common, including the major quake in 2001, which caused significant damage to the city’s cathedral. The surrounding desert terrain contrasts with the green valleys that have long been cultivated, contributing to the city’s historical prosperity in agriculture. Arequipa’s altitude also makes it a popular place for acclimatisation before visiting higher regions like Cusco or Puno.

Volcan Misti, Arequipa

History and Economics

Founded in 1540 by the Spanish, Arequipa quickly developed into an important trade and agricultural centre. The city benefited from its strategic location between Lima and the rich mining regions of Potosí in Bolivia. The surrounding fertile valleys allowed for strong agricultural development, including the production of corn, potatoes, and grains.

Mining continues to play a significant role in the region’s economy today, with the nearby Cerro Verde mine contributing significantly to Peru’s copper exports. Arequipa’s colonial wealth is also apparent in the beautifully preserved buildings in its historic centre, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.

Culinary Highlights

Arequipa is widely regarded as one of the gastronomic capitals of Peru, and its unique cuisine reflects the rich agricultural landscape and cultural fusion. The city is famed for its picanterías, traditional restaurants that serve hearty, spicy dishes made with local ingredients like rocoto (spicy Peruvian peppers) and shrimp from the nearby coast.

Some of Arequipa’s must-try dishes include:

• Rocoto Relleno: A spicy pepper stuffed with a mix of minced meat, cheese, and vegetables.
• Adobo Arequipeño: A marinated pork stew, slow cooked with chicha de jora (fermented corn beer), garlic, and Peruvian spices.
• Chupe de Camarones: A rich shrimp chowder with potatoes, corn, eggs, and milk.

When it comes to dining in Arequipa, these are some of the top restaurants that truly stand out and during our visit we dined at the first three of the restaurants below:

• Chicha: Founded by renowned Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, Chicha offers a modern take on classic Peruvian dishes, celebrating the flavours of the Arequipa region. Here, you’ll find locro (a hearty stew), picantería staples, and an elegant take on cuy (guinea pig), which are perfect for travellers looking to explore traditional dishes with a contemporary twist.
• Zig Zag: Known for its European Peruvian fusion, Zig Zag serves up some of the best alpaca dishes in the city. The signature offering is their meat platter, where alpaca, beef, and pork are grilled on volcanic stone, ensuring a delicious and unique experience.
• La Trattoria del Monasterio: Located within the serene Monasterio de Santa Catalina, this elegant restaurant offers a delightful fusion of Italian and Peruvian flavours. Signature dishes include freshly made pastas paired with local ingredients, making it an ideal stop for those wanting a refined meal after exploring the nearby historical landmarks.
• La Nueva Palomino: This traditional picantería is a favourite for locals, showcasing Arequipan dishes such as adobo (a hearty pork stew) and ocopa (potatoes in a spicy, peanut-based sauce). Known for its authenticity, La Nueva Palomino also offers a variety of chicha (fermented corn drink), a staple of Peruvian cuisine.

These restaurants, each with its own unique take on Peruvian cuisine, showcase why Arequipa has earned a reputation as a gastronomic hub.

Plaza de Armas and Catedral de Arequipa

Principal Sites in Arequipa

Arequipa’s historic centre is home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in Peru all made more stunning through the usages of the sillar stone which gives Arequipa its “The White City” name. Here are a few highlights:

Plaza de Armas
Surrounded by stately sillar buildings, where their stone work gives Arequipa “The White City” name, is one of the most picturesque squares in South America. Palm trees sway gently in the breeze, and flowers bloom year-round, making it a tranquil place to take in the grandeur of Arequipa’s colonial heritage.

Catedral de Arequipa
A striking example of Neoclassical architecture, this cathedral spans the entire north side of the Plaza de Armas. It was first constructed in the early 17th century and has undergone several reconstructions due to earthquake damage, including one in 2001 that toppled one of its towers.

Monasterio de Santa Catalina
One of the most impressive religious sites in South America, this cloistered convent was founded in 1579 and has been home to Dominican nuns for centuries. The complex is vast, with its old Spanish-style architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, painted cloisters, quiet courtyards and charming plazas resembling a city within a city. The striking contrasts of vivid colours of bright red, orange, blue, and white against the sky create a vibrant, photogenic atmosphere. The monastery is still active, but large parts are open to the public, allowing a unique glimpse into life in a colonial religious institution.

Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Arequipa

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
A Baroque masterpiece built in the early 1600’s, this Jesuit church features one of the most intricately carved façades in Arequipa. The church’s carved stonework includes motifs that blend traditional Spanish Catholic symbols with native Andean designs, a reflection of the cultural fusion in the city.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, Iglesia de San Francisco, Arequipa

Iglesia Santo Domingo
Is another iconic church, with its own rich history. This Baroque-style church was originally built in the 16th century and later expanded. Its striking white stone and detailed carvings inside make it a beautiful example of Arequipa’s religious architecture.

Museo Santuarios Andinos
This museum offers a fascinating insight into the pre-Columbian cultures of the Andes and is most famous for housing the remains of Juanita, the Ice Maiden, a well-preserved Inca mummy discovered on Volcán Ampato in 1995. Juanita is believed to have been a sacrificial offering to the gods, and her discovery has provided a wealth of information on Inca religious practices. The museum’s exhibits explore the Inca belief system and their use of human sacrifice to appease the gods, particularly in relation to the Andean mountains.

Casa del Moral and Casa Tristán del Pozo
Two excellent examples of 18th-century colonial mansions that offer insights into how the local elite lived during Arequipa’s colonial heyday. The intricate courtyards and sillar stone façades showcase both the wealth and artistry of the city.

Artisanal Markets & Alpaca Wool
Arequipa is renowned for its artisan markets, where visitors can purchase a variety of handmade goods, particularly those made from alpaca wool. The Mercado San Camilo and the Fundo el Fierro Artisan Market are two of the best spots to find high-quality alpaca garments such as sweaters, scarves, and blankets. Alpaca wool is prized for its softness, warmth, and durability, making it a popular choice for visitors looking for souvenirs. In addition to alpaca wool, vicuña wool is also highly coveted, though it is far more expensive due to the limited quantities produced.

The San Camilo Market you can find a wide range of fresh produce, meats, and local delicacies, including Arequipa’s famed queso helado (a type of frozen dessert). The market is a bustling hub where locals come to shop and socialise, and it provides a glimpse into the daily life of Arequipa’s residents.

Our second visit to Arequipa coincided with the preparations for the Fiestas Patrias (Peruvian Independence Day) and the city was full of marching bands, dancers and school performers celebrating Peruvian Independence.  The parades all finished in the Plaza de Armas and at night there were many fireworks.

Environmental Challenges

Like many cities in Peru, Arequipa faces environmental challenges, particularly related to water scarcity and pollution. The region’s rivers are heavily used for agriculture and are at risk of contamination from mining operations in the area. Earthquakes also pose a significant risk to the city, as evidenced by the damage caused in 2001.

Final Thoughts

Arequipa stands as a testament to Peru’s rich historical and cultural tapestry. With its stunning colonial architecture, vibrant culinary scene, and warm, welcoming atmosphere, it offers an enriching experience for every traveller. The city’s blend of traditional and modern influences, framed by the dramatic backdrop of Volcán Misti, creates a unique setting that captivates visitors. From exploring the meticulously restored Plaza de Armas and the serene Monasterio de Santa Catalina to sampling the delightful local cuisine, Arequipa invites travellers to immerse themselves in its multifaceted charm. Whether you’re wandering through its historical streets, indulging in its culinary delights, or simply taking in the breathtaking views of the surrounding volcanoes, Arequipa offers an unforgettable glimpse into Peru’s cultural heritage.

Dates: 28/06/2018 to 03/07/2018 and 19/07/2018 to 21/07/2018 – Revised 03/11/2024