Bogotá, the sprawling capital of Colombia, sits at an altitude of 2,640 metres (8,660 feet), making it one of the highest capital cities in the world. Home to over 8 million inhabitants, it’s a thriving metropolis that blends colonial history with modern-day energy. The city serves as Colombia’s commercial, cultural, and political hub, with an economy built on finance, education, and the creative arts, driving its recent economic transformation.
From the historic streets of La Candelaria to the modern high-rises in Chapinero, Bogotá pulses with an energy that blends tradition, art, and increasing modernity. It’s a city that has transformed rapidly in recent years, attracting a growing population of young professionals who are reshaping its skyline, social scene, and economy.
With its position at the geographical heart of the country, Bogotá has long been a vital transport hub, and we found ourselves passing through the city multiple times. Whether arriving from or departing to the Colombian Amazon, Caribbean, and destinations across Colombia and further afield in Latin America and beyond, Bogotá is a city you’re bound to return to—each time with something new to discover.
During many of our visits, we stayed at the charming, family-run Matisse Hotel in Chapinero, an area known for its diverse dining scene and proximity to both the historic Candelaria and the more modern, business-focused zones. Each time we returned to Bogotá, the city seemed to grow in its sense of dynamism, with an increasing number of young professionals and modern buildings shaping the skyline.
Geography and Climate
Bogotá is situated on the high plateau of the Bogotá savanna, part of the Andean Mountain range. Its altitude gives it a unique climate—mild year-round, but with frequent rain and overcast skies, typical of an equatorial city at this elevation. Average temperatures range from 9°C (48°F) to 20°C (68°F), with the coolest months being around July and the wettest in April and October. Bogotá because of both its climate and dominant position politically and economically in the country is often referred to as the fridge. Colombians, especially those from outside Bogotá often refer to Bogotá as La Nevera (“the fridge”) as a reference to its climate.
History
Founded by the Spanish in 1538 by Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada, Bogotá, originally called Santa Fé de Bogotá, became the capital of the New Kingdom of Granada, one of the centres of Spanish colonial rule. Its history is marked by conflicts between the Spanish crown, local elites, and indigenous groups. The assassination of Liberal leader Jorge Eliécer Gaitán in 1948 sparked El Bogotazo, a massive uprising that led to a decade of violence (La Violencia) across Colombia. Today, after enduring decades of civil conflict and the influence of drug cartels, Bogotá is emerging as a symbol of a more stable and prosperous Colombia.
Principal Districts of Bogotá
Bogotá’s districts each have a distinct character. La Candelaria, the city’s historical heart, offers an intimate glimpse into colonial Bogotá. Cobbled streets lined with colourful colonial buildings house small cafés, boutique shops, and renowned museums like the Museo del Oro and the Museo Botero. The area is also the city’s artistic hub, with vibrant street murals and local galleries dotting its winding streets.
Chapinero, in stark contrast, is a modern, bustling district where Bogotá’s younger professionals and students flock. The small family-run Matisse Hotel, where we stayed on many visits, is nestled here. The neighbourhood is known for its booming nightlife, trendy cafés, and restaurants. Zona G, Bogotá’s gourmet zone, falls within this district, and the streets are filled with everything from high-end restaurants to artisanal bakeries. This district is the city’s pulse for those interested in modern Bogotá.
Another highlight is Usaquén, one of Bogotá’s more affluent areas. Its quiet cobbled streets lead to upscale restaurants and chic boutiques. On Sundays, the Usaquén flea market takes over the area, with vendors selling handcrafted jewellery, art, and traditional Colombian snacks.
Finally, Zona Rosa (Zona T) is where Bogotá’s fashion-conscious and nightlife enthusiasts go. This zone, replete with clubs, international brands, and high-end stores, reflects the city’s cosmopolitan nature. It’s a district that underscores Bogotá’s increasing modernity, catering to the new wave of professionals and urban youth shaping the city’s future.
Bogotá as a Transport Hub
Throughout our travels, Bogotá was a constant: a city we passed through multiple times as we ventured to different regions of Colombia. El Dorado International Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional El Dorado) is one of Latin America’s busiest airports, connecting Bogotá to domestic destinations and international capitals alike. The city’s role as a major transport hub made it a convenient base, whether travelling to the coffee regions, the Caribbean coast, or Colombia’s Amazon rainforest. TransMilenio, the city’s rapid transit bus system, efficiently connects Bogotá’s sprawling districts, making the city accessible for both locals and travellers. The major bus terminal, Terminal de Transporte, connects Bogotá to destinations across Colombia.
La Candelaria: Bogotá’s Historic Core
La Candelaria (historical district) is the beating heart of Bogotá. Its cobblestone streets and colonial-era buildings provide a glimpse into the city’s rich history, while its cafés, galleries, and street vendors offer a taste of Bogotá’s modern bohemian vibe.
Plaza Bolívar: The Heart of Bogotá
Plaza Bolívar serves as the vibrant heart of Bogotá and a focal point of its historical and political life. Named after Simón Bolívar, the liberator of several South American countries, the square is flanked by some of the city’s most important buildings. To the north stands the imposing Capitolio Nacional, the seat of Colombia’s Congress, a neoclassical structure that reflects the architectural grandeur of the nation. To the west lies the Palacio de Justicia, which houses the Supreme Court, showcasing a blend of modern and classical design elements. On the eastern side, the Catedral Primada de Colombia, with its magnificent baroque facade, serves as a testament to Bogotá’s colonial past and its enduring religious significance. Completing the square is the Casa de Nariño, the presidential palace, which adds to the plaza’s importance as a centre of governance. Historically, Plaza Bolívar has been a site of pivotal events, including political rallies, public celebrations, and protests, making it a living testament to Colombia’s evolving democracy. The plaza not only functions as a gathering place for locals and tourists alike but also as a symbol of the city’s rich cultural heritage and its ongoing journey towards a more inclusive society.
Catedral Primada de Colombia: A Testament to Faith and History
The Catedral Primada de Colombia, is primarily dedicated to Saint Peter (San Pedro) and located in the heart of Plaza Bolívar, is an architectural marvel that stands as a testament to Bogotá’s religious heritage. Built between 1807 and 1823, the cathedral showcases a neoclassical style characterized by its grand façade, complete with imposing columns and a striking portico that invites visitors inside. Upon entering, one is greeted by an awe-inspiring interior, adorned with intricate altarpieces, lavish chapels, and a beautiful wooden ceiling that reflects the artistic craftsmanship of the era. The cathedral houses several important works of art, including a collection of religious paintings and sculptures that depict various saints and biblical scenes. As the principal church of the Archdiocese of Bogotá, the cathedral has been a focal point of religious life for centuries, hosting numerous significant events, including the wedding of Simón Bolívar and various papal visits. Its rich history and magnificent architecture make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the spiritual heart of Bogotá.
Iglesia de San Francisco: A Window into Colonial Faith
The Iglesia de San Francisco , constructed between 1557 and 1620, holds the distinction of being the oldest surviving church in Bogotá. Nestled in the historic La Candelaria district, this church exemplifies colonial architecture with its striking façade showcases a blend of Baroque and Mudejar architectural styles, with a wooden entrance flanked by two bell towers that stand tall against the city’s skyline.
The interior features a beautifully ornate altar, richly decorated with gold leaf and intricate carvings, reflecting the artistic influences of the colonial period. The ceiling, adorned with golden details, adds a sense of opulence, while the wooden pews invite contemplation and reflection. The abundance of gold within the church can be seen as a reflection of the complex relationship between the Franciscan order, the divine glory and the wealth of heaven and the material world.
The church has played a significant role in Bogotá’s history, serving not only as a place of worship but also as a community centre throughout the centuries. Visitors can admire the historic frescoes that adorn its walls, offering a glimpse into the artistic legacy of the era.
Iglesia de San Francisco, Bogotá, Colombia
Bogotá’s Museums: Cultural Cornerstones
Museo del Oro: Colombia’s Golden Past
No visit to Bogotá would be complete without a trip to the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum). Housing one of the world’s largest collections of pre-Hispanic gold artefacts, the museum is an exploration of Colombia’s indigenous past and its deep relationship with the precious metal. The centrepiece of the museum is the Sala de Ofrendas (Offerings Room), where hundreds of gold discs are displayed, some of which were used in ancient rituals. The intricate detailing and symbolism of the gold offer a profound look into the spiritual and everyday lives of Colombia’s indigenous people.
One of the most visually captivating exhibits is the Muisca raft (Balsa Muisca), a remarkable artefact that embodies the legend of El Dorado. Discovered in 1969 in the Guatavita Lake (Lago de Guatavita), this raft is adorned with gold figures, representing the rituals of the Muisca people. The raft was part of a ceremonial offering where a chief would cover himself in gold dust and present offerings to the gods. This artefact not only showcases the exquisite craftsmanship of Muisca artisans but also narrates a story that captivated explorers and treasure hunters for centuries.
In addition to the Muisca raft, the Sala de Ofrendas features a stunning display of gold discs (discos de oro) that hang suspended, shimmering under the museum lights. These discs, often linked to religious ceremonies or solar symbolism, reveal the sophisticated society that revered gold not merely for its material value but for its connection to the divine. The museum’s extensive collection also includes intricate gold masks (máscaras de oro), jewellery, and ceremonial objects, featuring various animal motifs and other images that highlight the rich biodiversity of Colombia. Creatures such as snakes, frogs, and birds are common representations, reflecting the Muisca people’s profound connection to nature and their beliefs in animal spirits. Each artefact tells a story, bringing to life the intricate beliefs and artistry of Colombia’s indigenous cultures.
Museo del Oro, Bogotá, Colombia
Museo Botero: The Art of Colombia’s Iconic Artist
The Museo Botero, located in the heart of Bogotá, is a must-visit for art lovers, showcasing the work of Colombia’s most celebrated artist, Fernando Botero. Housed in the former Palacio de las Bellas Artes, a beautiful colonial-style building with stunning architecture, the museum not only displays Botero’s iconic oversized figures but also features an impressive collection of works by international masters. The museum itself, with its high ceilings and spacious galleries, creates an inviting atmosphere for visitors to immerse themselves in art.
Among the standout pieces in the museum is Botero’s interpretation of the Mona Lisa, a playful reimagining of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece that encapsulates his unique style of exaggeration and humour. Another significant work is Leda y el Cisne(Leda and the Swan), a captivating sculpture that portrays the mythological encounter between Leda and Zeus in the form of a swan. This piece reflects Botero’s ability to blend classical themes with his signature style, inviting viewers to reconsider familiar narratives through his lens. Additionally, the painting Pareja Bailando (Dancing Couple) captures the vibrancy of Colombian culture, showcasing a couple in traditional dance, their forms exaggerated yet full of life and movement.
The museum also features a selection of works by renowned artists such as Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, and Joan Miró, reflecting Botero’s passion for collecting art from various eras and styles. The collection includes pieces that resonate with Botero’s artistic philosophy, focusing on the human figure and its varied expressions. Visitors can enjoy not only Botero’s playful and robust interpretations but also the rich narratives present in the works of other great artists. The Museo Botero stands as a testament to the power of art in expressing cultural identity and the creative spirit of Colombia.
Museo Botero, Bogotá, Colombia
Monserrate: A Sacred Summit
Monserrate is one of Bogotá’s most iconic landmarks, rising 3,152 metres (10,341 feet) above sea level. This imposing mountain, often shrouded in mist, is not only a stunning natural feature but also a significant pilgrimage destination. Visitors can reach the summit via a scenic cable car (teleférico) or a funicular railway, both offering breathtaking views of the sprawling city below. The journey is a highlight in itself, as the ascent reveals panoramic vistas that showcase Bogotá’s diverse landscape, nestled between the Andean mountains. The climb can also be done on foot via a well-worn path, though the high altitude makes the hike challenging.
At the top, you’ll find beautifully landscaped gardens, including a path lined with the Stations of the Cross (Vía Crucis), a series of artistic representations depicting the events of Jesus Christ’s crucifixion, allowing pilgrims and tourists alike to reflect on their spiritual significance in a serene environment. The walk through these gardens culminates in a stunning view over the city, providing a moment of tranquility amidst the hustle and bustle of Bogotá. The gardens lead to the Santuario del Señor Caído de Monserrate(Sanctuary of the Fallen Lord of Monserrate), which dates back to the 17th century and is dedicated to the statue of El Señor Caído (The Fallen Lord), depicting Christ in a moment of suffering. This figure is believed to have miraculous powers, attracting pilgrims from all over Colombia, especially during Holy Week.
One of the lesser-known features of the sanctuary is its Black Virgin (La Virgen Morena), a statue of the Virgin Mary with dark skin, which is common in many religious traditions across Latin America, who is believed to possess miraculous powers. Though she is not the central focus of worship at Monserrate, this Black Madonna has spiritual significance for many devotees, symbolising protection and maternal care.
The church is relatively modest compared to some of Bogotá’s grander sanctuaries, but its spiritual importance is immense. The altar, though simpler, still includes gold accents, reflecting Latin American religious traditions. Combined with its panoramic views of Bogotá, its religious importance, and the peaceful atmosphere, Monserrate offers both spiritual and aesthetic enrichment for locals and visitors alike.
The Ever-Evolving Canvas: Street Art in Bogotá
Street art in Bogotá has become one of the city’s defining features, transforming its urban landscape into a canvas of vibrant expression. Initially an act of rebellion against the establishment, street art in Bogotá has evolved from illegal defiance to legalised creativity. Over the years, government crackdowns have given way to more permissive attitudes, especially following the tragic death of graffiti artist Diego Felipe Becerra in 2011, which sparked nationwide protests. Today, many walls across the city are reserved for artistic expression, with property owners often sponsoring new works, creating a space where street art thrives under evolving legal status.
Bogotá Graffiti Tour: Exploring Art with the Artists
One of the best ways to explore Bogotá’s street art is through the free Bogotá Graffiti Tour, starting at Plaza de las Periodistas. Led by artists themselves, these tours delve into the city’s most iconic murals, giving visitors a firsthand account of the meanings, techniques, and social messages embedded in the art. The guides, often artists or street art connoisseurs, weave stories of inspiration, struggle, and identity as they introduce some of the city’s most prominent works. The tour is as much an education in the city’s political and social landscape as it is in street art itself.
Political Art: Gaitán and Beyond
Street art in Bogotá is deeply political. Many of the pieces on display tackle themes such as corruption, human rights, and historical injustices. One notable example is the vibrant pop art piece depicting Jorge Eliécer Gaitán, a political leader assassinated in 1948 whose death sparked the violent period known as La Violencia. The mural, created by renowned street artist DJLU (aka Juegasiempre), encapsulates the unresolved tensions of Colombia’s political past, blending bright colours and bold lines to portray the tragic yet hopeful figure of Gaitán.
Indigenous Faces: Cultural Pride Through Art
Indigenous identity is a recurring theme across Bogotá’s murals, with large, intricate faces adorning walls across neighbourhoods like Candelaria. These powerful images, often created by artists such as Carlos Trilleras and Toxicómano, serve as a reminder of Colombia’s indigenous roots and the ongoing struggles for indigenous rights. The portrayal of indigenous leaders, spiritual figures, and common people in vibrant colours and expressive lines is a powerful testament to the cultural pride of the city and a tribute to the native peoples of the region.
Street Art, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Female Artists: Creativity Amidst Challenge
Female street artists in Bogotá bring their own unique voices to the urban art scene, though not without facing considerable challenges. Artists like Bastardilla have risen to prominence, using their work to address social issues such as gender violence, inequality, and identity. However, being a woman in the street art world presents additional risks. Some have faced harassment or threats, both from authorities and other artists. Nevertheless, their bold works continue to inspire, adding a crucial dimension to Bogotá’s street art.
Animal Motifs: From Cats to Mice
Animals frequently appear in Bogotá’s street art, often used symbolically or to evoke emotions. A striking example is the evolution of the CAT mural, a massive depiction of felines that once graced the streets in 2018. By 2022, the mural had transformed into a scene of mice, showing how art in Bogotá is in a constant state of flux. Also in June 2018, the lamp post in front of the mural was painted to fit in with the mural, however in December that year the lamp post was repainted back to its original colour by the city authorities. This mural exemplifies how street art is not static—artists continually adapt, respond, and revise their work, creating an ever-changing public art gallery.
Cat / Mice Mural in June 2018, September 2018 and April 2022, Bogota, Colombia
Stencil Faces and Street Portraits
Another common motif in Bogotá’s street art scene is the use of stencil faces. These portraits, often created using simple yet effective techniques, are dotted across walls and street corners. Artists like DJLU and Crisp employ these stencils to depict activists, historical figures, or everyday people. The technique adds a layer of intimacy to the city’s graffiti landscape, as these faces confront passersby directly, making political and social commentary impossible to ignore.
Sponsorship and COVID’s Impact on Street Art
Much of Bogotá’s street art is sponsored by property owners, hostel managers, and local businesses, who often commission works to beautify their spaces. However, the COVID-19 pandemic hit the art scene hard, with many hostels and businesses closing down. As a result, sponsorships dwindled, and some murals were lost, painted over, or left unfinished as buildings were repurposed. The pandemic not only affected the livelihood of artists but also the artistic identity of Bogotá’s streets, which had long relied on these business relationships.
Protecting Iconic Pieces: Safeguarding Bogotá’s Art
Despite the transient nature of street art, some pieces in Bogotá are actively protected. Principal works, particularly those in highly trafficked areas, are restored or maintained to preserve their cultural significance. Artists collaborate with local governments and organisations to ensure that the legacy of Bogotá’s vibrant street art scene endures, even as new murals are constantly added. This balance between preservation and evolution is what keeps Bogotá’s street art alive and thriving, continually refreshing its identity.
Chapinero: Trendsetting and Bohemian
Chapinero is one of Bogotá’s most diverse and cosmopolitan districts, where modernity meets tradition. It’s home to a wide variety of restaurants, bars, and cafés, and its streets are always buzzing with students, young professionals, and artists. During our visits, we often enjoyed strolling through Chapinero’s leafy streets, popping into boutique shops and grabbing coffee at local favourites like Azahar and Catación Pública.
In contrast to the historic charm of La Candelaria, Chapinero is a symbol of Bogotá’s rapid modernisation. The district is increasingly filled with young professionals drawn to the area’s innovative dining scene, hip nightlife, and proximity to business centres.
Bogotá’s Flourishing Restaurant Scene
In recent years, Bogotá has gained a reputation as one of Latin America’s most exciting culinary destinations. The city’s dynamic restaurant scene blends traditional Colombian flavours with international influences, offering a diverse range of dining experiences. From high-end establishments serving innovative takes on local cuisine to small neighbourhood spots that celebrate Bogotá’s rich food culture, the city caters to a wide variety of tastes. Much of this growth is centred around areas like Chapinero, where a new generation of chefs is transforming the gastronomic landscape. We’ve had the pleasure of dining at some of these spots, including Mini-Mal, known for its fusion of Colombian ingredients with modern culinary techniques, and El Chato, a favourite for its creative use of locally sourced produce. Both places exemplify the innovative spirit that is making Bogotá’s food scene stand out.
Bogotá Beer Company, Chapinero, Bogotá
Bars and Craft Beer in Bogotá
Bogotá is also home to a lively bar scene, with craft beer emerging as a major trend in recent years. The Bogotá Beer Company (BBC), one of the pioneers of Colombia’s craft beer movement, has become a local institution, with its bars scattered across the city. In Chapinero, we visited several of these locations, where BBC’s wide selection of beers, from refreshing lagers to more complex ales, offers something for every beer lover. The relaxed atmosphere at the BBC bars, coupled with excellent local brews, has made them a go-to spot for Bogotá’s young professionals and beer enthusiasts. In addition to BBC, Chapinero boasts a variety of other bars, each offering a unique ambience and a great place to unwind after a day exploring the city. Today the Bogotá Beer Company like many independent breweries has been sold to the giant Belgian drinks conglomerate Anheuser-Bush InBev as indeed have many of the other popular beers (including Club Colombia, Águila and Pöker) in Colombia.
Final Thoughts
Bogotá is a city of contrasts. Its colonial heart beats in La Candelaria, where the walls speak through street art, while its modern soul thrives in districts like Chapinero, with upscale shopping and dining. The city’s museums house treasures of gold and art that narrate both the glories and tragedies of Colombia’s past. And at every corner, Bogotá invites visitors to explore its complex history, its cultural richness, and its resilient spirit.
- 2018 Trip – 25/06/2018 to 26/06/2018; & 16/09/2018 to 18/09/2018; & 05/12/2018 to 07/12/2018; & 18/12/2018 to 19/12/2018
- 2022 Trip – 26/04/2022 to 29/04/2022; & 09/06/2022 to 10/06/2022