Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, is a bustling metropolis home to nearly 3 million inhabitants, called porteños, with the greater metropolitan area (Gran Buenos Aires) reaching close to 15 million. The city is one of South America’s most elegant cities and has a passion for culture, tango and football. Geographically, the city lies on the southern shore of the Río de la Plata, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean, offering a unique blend of riverfront districts and grand, wide boulevards. With a temperate climate, the summers are hot and humid, while winters remain mild, making the city an attractive year-round destination.
Founded in 1536 by the Spanish and later re-founded in 1580, Buenos Aires is the cultural heart of Argentina and boasts a unique blend of European influences, from architecture to the arts. The city’s neighbourhoods are as diverse as its history, with places like La Boca providing colourful, working-class roots, while the polished elegance of Palermo reflects a more modern and cosmopolitan spirit.
Buenos Aries
The Historic Core: Puerto Madero and Plaza de Mayo
The first stop on any tour of Buenos Aires is the area surrounding Puerto Madero and our arrival by ferry in 2018 from Colonia de Sacramento, in Uruguay took us quickly and easily to the heart of Buenos Aires. . Formerly an old port, it has undergone a dramatic transformation into a sleek district of high-rise buildings and renovated warehouses, making it a symbol of the city’s rejuvenation. This waterfront area, once decaying, now rivals global urban projects, showcasing shiny skyscrapers and luxurious living spaces. It’s a striking contrast between old and new, much like the city itself. A highlight of the district is the Puente de la Mujer, a striking white footbridge designed by Santiago Calatrava, inspired by the motion of a couple dancing tango.
Heading inland, we find Plaza de Mayo, the political and historical heart of Buenos Aires. This square has witnessed countless protests and significant moments in the nation’s history.
Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires
| The Madres de Plaza de Mayo One of Argentina’s most enduring human rights movements is the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo (Madres de Plaza de Mayo), a group formed during the country’s last military dictatorship (1976–1983) to demand justice for their disappeared children. During the dictatorship, an estimated 30,000 people were forcibly taken, tortured, and killed in what became known as the Dirty War (Guerra Sucia). Many of the victims were young activists, students, and intellectuals, abducted by government forces and never seen again. In 1977, a small group of mothers, desperate for answers, began gathering in Plaza de Mayo, the political heart of Buenos Aires, directly in front of the Casa Rosada. Wearing white headscarves embroidered with their children’s names, they marched in silent defiance, demanding information on the whereabouts of their loved ones. Their persistence, in the face of threats and intimidation, turned them into a global symbol of resistance against state violence. The mothers continue to march here every Thursday afternoon, demanding justice. Their iconic white headscarf is now an unmistakable emblem of the movement, appearing as stencils on the streets and pavements of Buenos Aires, particularly around Plaza de Mayo and San Telmo. These stencils serve as a stark reminder of Argentina’s painful past and an enduring call for justice. |
The Catedral Metropolitana, with its stately neoclassical façade, presides over the square. Originally built in the late 16th century, it stands as the seat of the Catholic Church in Argentina. Inside, visitors can find the mausoleum of General José de San Martín, Argentina’s revered independence leader, guarded by statues representing Argentina, Chile, and Peru.
Catedral Metropolitana, Buenos Aires
| José de San Martín: The Liberator of Argentina José de San Martín (1778–1850) was one of the most crucial figures in South America’s struggle for independence from Spanish rule. Born in Yapeyú, in present-day Argentina, he was educated in Spain and served in the Spanish military before returning to his homeland in 1812 to join the fight for independence. San Martín played a pivotal role in securing Argentina’s freedom from Spain in 1816, but his vision extended beyond national borders. Understanding that true independence required the defeat of Spanish forces across the continent, he led the Army of the Andes in an audacious crossing of the Andes Mountains in 1817. This campaign resulted in the liberation of Chile after the decisive Battle of Chacabuco, followed by his instrumental role in freeing Peru in 1821. His meeting with Simón Bolívar in Guayaquil in 1822 remains a key moment in Latin American history. Shortly after, San Martín withdrew from public life, allowing Bolívar to continue the fight in northern South America. He spent his later years in exile in France, passing away in 1850. Today, he is revered as a national hero, and his remains lie in Buenos Aires’ Catedral Metropolitana, guarded by statues of three female figures representing Argentina, Chile, and Peru—the nations he helped liberate. |
To the south of the square stand the San Francisco Basilica and the Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, associated with the Dominican Order. San Francisco, dating from the late 18th century, is notable for its intricate baroque facade and its connection to Franciscan traditions, while the Dominican basilica houses a significant collection of religious art and relics.
San Francisco Basilica, Basilica Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Cabildo de Buenos Aires
The Cabildo de Buenos Aires, originally built in the early 17th century, served as the colonial town hall and played a pivotal role in the May Revolution of 1810. Today, it is a museum detailing the fight for independence and the political struggles of the era.
Plaza de Mayo itself is also adorned with significant statues, including one of Manuel Belgrano, who famously presented the national flag in 1812. The Pirámide de Mayo, erected in 1811, stands at the centre of the square, commemorating the first anniversary of the May Revolution.
At the east end of the square is the Casa Rosada, Argentina’s pink-hued presidential palace, from whose balconies political figures like Juan and Eva Perón addressed the public. The building, completed in 1884, is a striking blend of Italianate and French styles, and its distinctive pink façade has been an iconic feature since its construction. Unusually, the building has an asymmetric structure due to the joining of two separate buildings in the late 19th century. A visit to the museum inside reveals historical artefacts, including Evita’s iconic dresses and letters from key historical figures.To the north of the plaza, visitors can find Plaza San Martín, a leafy square honouring General José de San Martín, featuring a grand equestrian statue of the leader who liberated Argentina, Chile, and Peru. The square is also home to theTorre Monumental, formerly known as the Torre de los Ingleses, a clock tower gifted
Palacio del Congreso, Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires
The Grandeur of the Congreso and Avenues
The Palacio del Congreso is an architectural marvel and home to the Argentine National Congress. Its grandiose design, inspired by Washington D.C.’s Capitol Building, is a testament to the city’s ambition in the early 20th century. The building sits on the edge of Avenida de Mayo, one of Buenos Aires’ grandest avenues, lined with beaux-arts buildings and featuring wide, tree-lined boulevards. This wide avenue is complemented by nearby Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the widest streets in the world, and Avenida Corrientes, home to theatres and cultural landmarks like the famous Obelisco—a 67-metre-high monument commemorating the founding of Buenos Aires.
Avenida Corrientes is also known for the massive mural of Eva Perón, located on the side of the Ministry of Social Development building. The image of Evita, facing westward, is a powerful political symbol that remains relevant today. The avenue is also the main route for celebrations, including the euphoric festivities following Argentina’s 2022 FIFA World Cup victory.
Teatro Colon, Buenos Aires
Teatro Colón and the World of Theatre
One of the most iconic and impressive theatres in the world, Buenos Aires’ Teatro Colón is renowned for its acoustics and grandeur. Frequently ranked among the top three opera houses globally, it also stands as a premier venue for orchestral performances. Built in 1908, the theatre underwent meticulous restoration to return it to its original design. The Colón has hosted many of the world’s leading artists, from Maria Callas to Plácido Domingo.
The current theatre was designed by architects Francesco Tamburini, Vittorio Meano, and Jules Dormal, replacing an earlier theatre on Plaza de Mayo. The new location, on Plaza Lavalle, provides a grand setting surrounded by other significant cultural buildings.
The building itself is a masterpiece of architectural synthesis, blending Italian, French, and German influences. Stepping into the Colón is like entering a world of opulence, from the grand marble staircases to the intricate detailing on the ceilings. The main hall’s horseshoe shape, with seating for over 2,400 people, contributes to its unparalleled acoustics. The entrance hall is lined with busts of composers, and the vast crystal chandeliers reflect the luxury of the Belle Époque era during which it was constructed.
The Colón’s acoustics are exceptional, thanks to hidden sound boxes beneath the seats, allowing sound to reverberate with perfect clarity. The theatre’s grand boxes were traditionally reserved for the political and social elite, ensuring their presence was seen as well as heard by the public.
For those visiting Buenos Aires, a tour of the Teatro Colón is essential. Our guide was a local student, passionate about the theatre’s history. She brought the experience to life by singing famous operatic arias in the entrance hall, under the watchful gazes of the composers’ busts. The acoustics were as impressive as the tour itself, making the whole experience truly immersive. She wove tales of the theatre’s past and its place in Argentine culture, adding an authentic personal touch to the grandeur of the surroundings.
For those who can’t make it in person, the Teatro Colón live-streams many of its performances, allowing audiences worldwide to enjoy its splendour.
Beyond the theatre, Plaza Lavalle is home to the Supreme Court of Argentina and several historic buildings, making it an important cultural and judicial hub in the city.
Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires
Palermo District: Bohemian Spirit
The Palermo district, located to the northwest of the city centre, is one of Buenos Aires’ most vibrant and lively neighbourhoods. Known for its tree-lined streets, pastel-coloured buildings, and bohemian atmosphere, it’s a hub for artists, writers, and musicians. Palermo is divided into smaller sub-districts, with Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood standing out as the trendiest areas, full of boutique shops, street art, and stylish cafes. The district’s parks, such as the Jardín Botánico and Bosques de Palermo, offer locals a verdant escape from the urban hustle, with dog walkers and street performers adding to the charm. We stayed in a boutique hotel in Palermo called Mine Hotel Boutique.
In Palermo, you can witness the passion Porteños have for their dogs, with professional dog walkers parading as many as ten dogs at once along the leafy avenues. Palermo comes alive at night with porteños, known for their chic but understated style, flocking to the district’s many bars and restaurants for socialising, making it an unmissable part of any visit.
Palermo District, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Books and Literature in Buenos Aires
For book lovers, Buenos Aires is a paradise. The city’s literary culture is deeply ingrained in its identity, with a rich publishing industry and bookshops on nearly every corner. One of the most impressive is the El Ateneo Grand Splendid, located on Avenida Santa Fe. This bookshop is housed in a former theatre, and its elegant transformation into a literary haven is breathtaking. The original structure has been preserved, with the grand foyer, circle, and balconies used to display books, while the stage has been repurposed into a charming coffee shop. You can sit there, enjoy a coffee, and take in the atmosphere of this truly magnificent bookshop. It’s no wonder El Ateneo Grand Splendid is considered one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.
In the streets surrounding Avenida de Mayo and Avenida Corrientes, you’ll find more traditional, old-school bookshops. While not as grand as El Ateneo, these shops are serious institutions, carrying on Argentina’s proud literary tradition. Buenos Aires has one of the most prolific publishing industries in Latin America, and because at the time of our visit Amazon hadn’t yet reached the country, bookshops maintain their relevance. The proprietors know their literature—both Argentinian and international—and their cleverly arranged displays often draw you into the store to explore further.
Buenos Aires also boasts a strong literary tradition, with famous writers such as Jorge Luis Borges, Julio Cortázar, and Adolfo Bioy Casares hailing from the city. Borges, in particular, is a national icon, and his works, often inspired by labyrinthine plots and philosophical musings, reflect the intellectual and cultural depth of the city. His influence permeates every corner of Buenos Aires, and you’ll often find bookstores proudly displaying his works alongside international bestsellers. For book lovers, Buenos Aires is truly a city of wonders.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
La Boca: Colour, Football, and Tradition
La Boca, one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic and colourful neighbourhoods, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the city, especially football fans. The neighbourhood, located around the old port, was originally home to many immigrants, predominantly from Italy. The Italian influence still permeates the area, particularly through its vibrant street life and architecture.
A unique tradition emerged from the docks of La Boca, where workers would use leftover paint from ships to decorate the neighbourhood’s buildings in a myriad of bright colours. This tradition of using scrap paint has created a vibrant patchwork of colour, which extends beyond buildings to parts of the pavement, giving the area its distinct charm. Today, this tradition is centred around Caminito, a bustling street filled with tourist shops, restaurants, and lively street performances. Tango dancers in traditional garb entice passers-by with performances and the opportunity to learn some of the classic moves for a small fee. Despite the crowds—often bolstered by cruise ship tourists—Caminito remains an excellent spot to grab a beer, soak in the local atmosphere, and enjoy the kaleidoscope of colours around you. Amidst the riot of colours, statues of Argentine icons like Diego Maradona Diego Maradona, Lionel Messi, Evita, Guardel etc. can be seen gazing down from balconies.
Caminito, Buenos Aires
Just a few blocks from Caminito is the Estadio Alberto J. Armando, more commonly known as La Bombonera, the home of Boca Juniors, one of the most iconic football clubs in the world. The stadium, shaped somewhat like a chocolate box, stands tightly packed into the neighbourhood, with steep sides that reverberate with sound during matches. Unlike many modern European stadiums, La Bombonera retains its traditional standing terraces, creating a more intense and atmospheric experience.
The stadium tour gives a glimpse into the history and traditions of the club, including the famous story of how Boca adopted its distinctive blue and yellow kit—after losing a match for the right to wear the Albiceleste (light blue of the Argentine national team) and opting to use the colours of the next ship that docked at the port, which happened to be Swedish. That ship flew the Swedish flag, which is why Boca Juniors adopted their iconic deep blue with a yellow band, representing the blue skies and sunshine of Buenos Aires but with an unexpected nod to Sweden. A tour of La Bombonera also offers insight into the fierce rivalry with River Plate, which divides the city every football season. The neighbourhood’s Italian immigrant roots are also evident in the local cuisine and dialect, giving La Boca its distinctive flavour.
La Bombonera, Buenos Aires
Tango: The Soul of Buenos Aires
No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without experiencing the city’s most famous cultural export: tango. We immersed ourselves in the tango culture in two distinct settings—both on the streets and in more formal shows.
In San Telmo, particularly on Sundays, the streets are alive with tango performers, especially around Plaza Dorrego. The dancers, in their elegant dresses and sharp suits, put on mesmerising displays for the crowds. It was fascinating to see performers of all ages, including an elderly man who danced with all the flair of his younger counterparts. Even those with physical disabilities participate, a testament to Argentina’s inclusive approach to tango culture.
Street Tango, San Telmo, Buenos Aires
The more formal tango shows, such as the one we attended in Puerto Madero in 2018, offer a polished spectacle. Accompanied by a traditional Argentine meal of steak and red wine, the show unfolded with dramatic storytelling through dance. The dancers’ sultry movements and sharp leg kicks, set against live music, encapsulated the romance and tension that tango is known for.
One of the most renowned tango performances in Buenos Aires is La Ventana, located in the heart of San Telmo, which we visited in 2025. This show blends history and culture, incorporating folk music, Andean instruments, and even a touching final scene where dancers wave Argentine flags as “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” plays, evoking deep national pride. A standard tango show follows a structured progression, beginning with intimate, dimly lit scenes of early tango origins, often performed in deep reds and blacks. As the night progresses, the performance transitions to grand, synchronised group pieces, featuring vibrant colours, elaborate costumes, and an energetic display of footwork. The show builds towards a crescendo with dramatic orchestral accompaniment, highlighting the passion and intensity that defines tango.
La Ventana Tango Show, Buenos Aires
Beyond the dancing, Sundays in San Telmo bring another key attraction—the San Telmo Market. This sprawling street market stretches along Calle Defensa, featuring everything from antiques and artisanal crafts to street food vendors offering empanadas and choripán. The market atmosphere is lively, with musicians, performers, and vendors creating a unique cultural experience that perfectly complements the district’s historic charm.
Tango
Recoleta Cemetery and Floralis Generica: Icons of Elegance
The Recoleta Cemetery is one of Buenos Aires’ most significant landmarks, a final resting place for the city’s elite. Its elaborate tombs and mausoleums are a testament to the wealth and prestige of Argentina’s upper classes. The most famous resident here is Eva Perón, whose tomb is regularly adorned with flowers from admirers paying their respects.
| Eva Perón: The People’s Champion María Eva Duarte de Perón (1919–1952), better known as Evita, was one of Argentina’s most influential and beloved figures. Born into humble beginnings in the rural town of Los Toldos, she moved to Buenos Aires as a teenager to pursue a career in acting. Her life changed forever when she met Juan Domingo Perón, a rising political figure, in 1944. The two married the following year, and when Perón became President of Argentina in 1946, Evita emerged as a powerful and charismatic force in his administration. As First Lady, Evita dedicated herself to social welfare, championing the rights of the poor and working class. Through the Eva Perón Foundation, she funded housing, hospitals, and schools, while also advocating for women’s suffrage, which was achieved in 1947. Her connection with the descamisados (the “shirtless ones,” or working-class supporters) made her immensely popular, though she remained a divisive figure among Argentina’s elite. In 1951, she was poised to run for Vice President, but her deteriorating health forced her to withdraw. She died of cervical cancer in 1952, at just 33 years old. Despite her short life, her legacy endures—immortalised in songs, films, and the hearts of many Argentines. Her image looms large over Buenos Aires, from murals along Avenida 9 de Julio to her final resting place in the Recoleta Cemetery, where admirers still leave flowers in tribute. |
Nearby, the Floralis Generica, a giant steel flower sculpture, adds a touch of modernity to the city’s historical grandeur. Its petals open and close daily, symbolising the evolution of Buenos Aires from its colonial past to its forward-looking present.
Recoleta Cemetery and Floralis Generica, Buenos Aires
Calle Florida and Plaza San Martín
Calle Florida, one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic shopping streets, is a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare crowded with both Porteños and tourists. Its streets are lined with shops selling everything from leather goods to souvenirs, and it’s a great spot to get a feel for the city’s energy. You’ll also encounter locals shouting “cambio” as they offer to exchange foreign currency—a hallmark of Argentina’s complicated financial history. Argentina has not fully recovered from its past economic crises, including threats of defaults, and the official exchange rate often differs widely from what is offered on the street, creating a lively grey market for currency exchange. Tourists, wary of hefty bank charges, often find themselves negotiating with these street vendors, a practice tolerated by the authorities.
At the end of Calle Florida lies Plaza San Martín, a peaceful and verdant space filled with history. The plaza is home to an impressive statue of General José de San Martín, one of Argentina’s most revered founding fathers, who led the country’s struggle for independence. Nearby, the Falklands War Memorial stands as a poignant reminder of the 625 Argentinian soldiers and conscripts who died in the 1982 conflict. The marble memorial, which includes a map of the Falkland Islands set against flowing water, evokes the image of tears. The solemn atmosphere is heightened by the two soldiers who stand guard over the monument, maintaining the dignity of this tragic chapter in Argentina’s history.
Plaza San Martín, Buenos Aires
Puerto Madero
Puerto Madero Once a neglected dock area, Puerto Madero has been transformed into one of Buenos Aires’ most upscale districts. Originally developed in the late 19th century as a modern port, it quickly became obsolete due to the increasing size of ships. For much of the 20th century, the area remained abandoned until a major revitalisation project in the 1990s turned it into a stylish waterfront destination.
Today, Puerto Madero is home to luxury apartments, high-end restaurants, and scenic promenades along the docks. Dining options range from classic Argentine parrillas to international cuisine. Cabaña Las Lilas is a renowned steakhouse offering premium cuts of beef, while Cabañas Villegas is another excellent choice for a high-quality steak experience. The district also features stylish bars and lounges, making it a popular nightlife spot.
For visitors like us in on our return visit in 2025, the Holiday Inn Express near Puerto Madero provided convenient accommodation within walking distance of the waterfront. The area is also close to Buquebus Terminal, the main ferry terminal for trips to Uruguay, making it an ideal base for those planning a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento or Montevideo.
Food,Buenos Aires
Cuisine: Empanadas and Dulce de Leche
Buenos Aires is a paradise for food lovers. A traditional Argentine meal wouldn’t be complete without empanadas, savoury pastries filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables. Street vendors and cafes offer these delights alongside asado (grilled meats) that define Argentine cuisine. For those with a sweet tooth, dulce de leche, a caramel-like spread, is a ubiquitous part of Buenos Aires’ culinary culture, appearing in everything from pastries to ice cream.
No culinary exploration of Buenos Aires would be complete without visiting Café Tortoni, the city’s most iconic café. Founded in 1858, Café Tortoni has been a gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and writers for generations. Its historic charm, complete with elegant wood panelling and stained-glass windows, makes it an essential stop for anyone wanting to soak up the local atmosphere while enjoying a coffee or the city’s favourite sweet treat.
Steakhouses are a cornerstone of Buenos Aires’ culinary scene, and Cabañas Villegas in Puerto Madero, stands out as a must-visit for perfectly cooked Argentine beef. Offering a range of cuts, from ojo de bife (ribeye) to bife de chorizo (sirloin), it exemplifies the country’s passion for high-quality steak, accompanied by classic sides such as provoleta (grilled provolone cheese) and chimichurri sauce.
Tango shows often include a traditional three-course meal. A typical menu begins with an appetiser of empanadas or a light salad, followed by a main course featuring a premium steak or another Argentine classic such as Malbec-braised beef. Dessert typically includes flan with dulce de leche or alfajores, and the meal is paired with a glass of fine Argentine wine, enhancing the cultural experience.
Final Thoughts on Buenos Aires
From the bustling streets of Calle Florida, where porteños and tourists shop side by side, to the historic memorials for the fallen soldiers of the Falklands War in Plaza San Martin, Buenos Aires is a city that elegantly marries its turbulent history with a vibrant present. Its passion for football, love of tango, and the ever-present dogs roaming its streets make Buenos Aires one of the most engaging cities ever to visit.
Dates: 27/02/2018 to 06/03/20188 and 20/02/2025 to 24/02/2025
Buenos Aires