Buenos Aires: European Elegance in the Heart of South America
Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina, is a bustling metropolis home to nearly 3 million inhabitants, called porteños, with the greater metropolitan area (Gran Buenos Aires) reaching close to 15 million. The city is one of South America’s most elegant cities and has a passion for culture, tango and football. Geographically, the city lies on the southern shore of the Río de la Plata, where it meets the Atlantic Ocean, offering a unique blend of riverfront districts and grand, wide boulevards. With a temperate climate, the summers are hot and humid, while winters remain mild, making the city an attractive year-round destination.
Founded in 1536 by the Spanish and later re-founded in 1580, Buenos Aires is the cultural heart of Argentina and boasts a unique blend of European influences, from architecture to the arts. The city’s neighbourhoods are as diverse as its history, with places like La Boca providing colourful, working-class roots, while the polished elegance of Palermo reflects a more modern and cosmopolitan spirit.
The Historic Core: Puerto Madero and Plaza de Mayo
The first stop on any tour of Buenos Aires is the area surrounding Puerto Madero and our arrival by ferry from Colonia de Sacramento, in Uruguay took us quickly and easily to the heart of Buenos Aires. Formerly an old port, it has undergone a dramatic transformation into a sleek district of high-rise buildings and renovated warehouses, making it a symbol of the city’s rejuvenation. This waterfront area, once decaying, now rivals global urban projects, showcasing shiny skyscrapers and luxurious living spaces. It’s a striking contrast between old and new, much like the city itself.
Heading inland, we find Plaza de Mayo, the political and historical heart of Buenos Aires. This square has witnessed countless protests and significant moments in the nation’s history. The Catedral Metropolitana, with its stately neoclassical façade, presides over the square. Originally built in the late 16th century, it stands as the seat of the Catholic Church in Argentina. Opposite the cathedral is the Cabildo, once the seat of the colonial government and now a museum showcasing Argentina’s independence movement.
At the east end of the square is the Casa Rosada, Argentina’s pink-hued presidential palace, from whose balconies political figures like Juan and Eva Perón addressed the public. The building, completed in 1884, is a striking blend of Italianate and French styles, and its distinctive pink façade has been an iconic feature since its construction.
Palacio del Congreso, Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires
The Grandeur of the Congreso and Avenues
The Palacio del Congreso is an architectural marvel and home to the Argentine National Congress. Its grandiose design, inspired by Washington D.C.’s Capitol Building, is a testament to the city’s ambition in the early 20th century. The building sits on the edge of Avenida de Mayo, one of Buenos Aires’ grandest avenues, lined with beaux-arts buildings and featuring wide, tree-lined boulevards. This wide avenue is complemented by nearby Avenida 9 de Julio, one of the widest streets in the world, and Avenida Corrientes, home to theatres and cultural landmarks like the famous Obelisco—a 67-metre-high monument commemorating the founding of Buenos Aires.
Teatro Colón and the World of Theatre
One of the most iconic and impressive theatres in the world, Buenos Aires’ Teatro Colón is renowned for its acoustics and grandeur. Frequently ranked among the top three opera houses globally, it also stands as a premier venue for orchestral performances. Built in 1908, the theatre underwent meticulous restoration to return it to its original design. The Colón has hosted many of the world’s leading artists, from Maria Callas to Plácido Domingo.
The building itself is a masterpiece of architectural synthesis, blending Italian, French, and German influences. Stepping into the Colón is like entering a world of opulence, from the grand marble staircases to the intricate detailing on the ceilings. The main hall’s horseshoe shape, with seating for over 2,400 people, contributes to its unparalleled acoustics. The entrance hall is lined with busts of composers, and the vast crystal chandeliers reflect the luxury of the Belle Époque era during which it was constructed.
For those visiting Buenos Aires, a tour of the Teatro Colón is essential. Our guide was a local student, passionate about the theatre’s history. She brought the experience to life by singing famous operatic arias in the entrance hall, under the watchful gazes of the composers’ busts. The acoustics were as impressive as the tour itself, making the whole experience truly immersive. She wove tales of the theatre’s past and its place in Argentine culture, adding an authentic personal touch to the grandeur of the surroundings.
For those who can’t make it in person, the Teatro Colón live-streams many of its performances, allowing audiences worldwide to enjoy its splendour.
Teatro Colón, Buenos Aires
Palermo District: Bohemian Spirit
The Palermo district, located to the northwest of the city centre, is one of Buenos Aires’ most vibrant and lively neighbourhoods. Known for its tree-lined streets, pastel-coloured buildings, and bohemian atmosphere, it’s a hub for artists, writers, and musicians. Palermo is divided into smaller sub-districts, with Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood standing out as the trendiest areas, full of boutique shops, street art, and stylish cafes. The district’s parks, such as the Jardín Botánico and Bosques de Palermo, offer locals a verdant escape from the urban hustle, with dog walkers and street performers adding to the charm. We stayed in a boutique hotel in Palermo called Mine Hotel Boutique.
In Palermo, you can witness the passion Porteños have for their dogs, with professional dog walkers parading as many as ten dogs at once along the leafy avenues. Palermo comes alive at night with porteños, known for their chic but understated style, flocking to the district’s many bars and restaurants for socialising, making it an unmissable part of any visit.
Palermo District, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Books and Literature in Buenos Aires
For book lovers, Buenos Aires is a paradise. The city’s literary culture is deeply ingrained in its identity, with a rich publishing industry and bookshops on nearly every corner. One of the most impressive is the El Ateneo Grand Splendid, located on Avenida Santa Fe. This bookshop is housed in a former theatre, and its elegant transformation into a literary haven is breathtaking. The original structure has been preserved, with the grand foyer, circle, and balconies used to display books, while the stage has been repurposed into a charming coffee shop. You can sit there, enjoy a coffee, and take in the atmosphere of this truly magnificent bookshop. It’s no wonder El Ateneo Grand Splendid is considered one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world.
In the streets surrounding Avenida de Mayo and Avenida Corrientes, you’ll find more traditional, old-school bookshops. While not as grand as El Ateneo, these shops are serious institutions, carrying on Argentina’s proud literary tradition. Buenos Aires has one of the most prolific publishing industries in Latin America, and because at the time of our visit Amazon hadn’t yet reached the country, bookshops maintain their relevance. The proprietors know their literature—both Argentinian and international—and their cleverly arranged displays often draw you into the store to explore further.
Buenos Aires also boasts a strong literary tradition, with famous writers such as Jorge Luis Borges, Julio Cortázar, and Adolfo Bioy Casares hailing from the city. Borges, in particular, is a national icon, and his works, often inspired by labyrinthine plots and philosophical musings, reflect the intellectual and cultural depth of the city. His influence permeates every corner of Buenos Aires, and you’ll often find bookstores proudly displaying his works alongside international bestsellers. For book lovers, Buenos Aires is truly a city of wonders.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid, Buenos Aires
La Boca: Colour, Football, and Tradition
La Boca, one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic and colourful neighbourhoods, is a must-visit for anyone exploring the city, especially football fans. The neighbourhood, located around the old port, was originally home to many immigrants, predominantly from Italy. The Italian influence still permeates the area, particularly through its vibrant street life and architecture.
A unique tradition emerged from the docks of La Boca, where workers would use leftover paint from ships to decorate the neighbourhood’s buildings in a myriad of bright colours. This tradition of using scrap paint has created a vibrant patchwork of colour, which extends beyond buildings to parts of the pavement, giving the area its distinct charm. Today, this tradition is centred around Caminito, a bustling street filled with tourist shops, restaurants, and lively street performances. Tango dancers in traditional garb entice passers-by with performances and the opportunity to learn some of the classic moves for a small fee. Despite the crowds—often bolstered by cruise ship tourists—Caminito remains an excellent spot to grab a beer, soak in the local atmosphere, and enjoy the kaleidoscope of colours around you. Amidst the riot of colours, statues of Argentine icons like Diego Maradona can be seen gazing down from balconies.
Caminito, Buenos Aires
Just a few blocks from Caminito is the Estadio Alberto J. Armando, more commonly known as La Bombonera, the home of Boca Juniors, one of the most iconic football clubs in the world. The stadium, shaped somewhat like a chocolate box, stands tightly packed into the neighbourhood, with steep sides that reverberate with sound during matches. Unlike many modern European stadiums, La Bombonera retains its traditional standing terraces, creating a more intense and atmospheric experience.
The stadium tour gives a glimpse into the history and traditions of the club, including the famous story of how Boca adopted its distinctive blue and yellow kit—after losing a match for the right to wear the Albiceleste (light blue of the Argentine national team) and opting to use the colours of the next ship that docked at the port, which happened to be Swedish. That ship flew the Swedish flag, which is why Boca Juniors adopted their iconic deep blue with a yellow band, representing the blue skies and sunshine of Buenos Aires but with an unexpected nod to Sweden. A tour of La Bombonera also offers insight into the fierce rivalry with River Plate, which divides the city every football season. The neighbourhood’s Italian immigrant roots are also evident in the local cuisine and dialect, giving La Boca its distinctive flavour.
La Bombonera, Buenos Aires
Tango: The Soul of Buenos Aires
No visit to Buenos Aires is complete without experiencing the city’s most famous cultural export: tango. We immersed ourselves in the tango culture in two distinct settings—both on the streets and in more formal shows.
In San Telmo, particularly on Sundays, the streets are alive with tango performers, especially around Plaza Dorrego. The dancers, in their elegant dresses and sharp suits, put on mesmerising displays for the crowds. It was fascinating to see performers of all ages, including an elderly man who danced with all the flair of his younger counterparts. Even those with physical disabilities participate, a testament to Argentina’s inclusive approach to tango culture.
The more formal tango shows, such as the one we attended in Puerto Madero, offer a polished spectacle. Accompanied by a traditional Argentine meal of steak and red wine, the show unfolded with dramatic storytelling through dance. The dancers’ sultry movements and sharp leg kicks, set against live music, encapsulated the romance and tension that tango is known for.
Recoleta Cemetery and Floralis Generica: Icons of Elegance
The Recoleta Cemetery is one of Buenos Aires’ most significant landmarks, a final resting place for the city’s elite. Its elaborate tombs and mausoleums are a testament to the wealth and prestige of Argentina’s upper classes. The most famous resident here is Eva Perón, whose tomb is regularly adorned with flowers from admirers paying their respects.
Nearby, the Floralis Generica, a giant steel flower sculpture, adds a touch of modernity to the city’s historical grandeur. Its petals open and close daily, symbolising the evolution of Buenos Aires from its colonial past to its forward-looking present.
Recoleta Cemetery and Floralis Generica, Buenos Aires
Calle Florida and Plaza San Martín
Calle Florida, one of Buenos Aires’ most iconic shopping streets, is a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare crowded with both Porteños and tourists. Its streets are lined with shops selling everything from leather goods to souvenirs, and it’s a great spot to get a feel for the city’s energy. You’ll also encounter locals shouting “cambio” as they offer to exchange foreign currency—a hallmark of Argentina’s complicated financial history. Argentina has not fully recovered from its past economic crises, including threats of defaults, and the official exchange rate often differs widely from what is offered on the street, creating a lively grey market for currency exchange. Tourists, wary of hefty bank charges (sometimes as much as 10% for ATM withdrawals), often find themselves negotiating with these street vendors, a practice tolerated by the authorities.
At the end of Calle Florida lies Plaza San Martín, a peaceful and verdant space filled with history. The plaza is home to an impressive statue of General José de San Martín, one of Argentina’s most revered founding fathers, who led the country’s struggle for independence. Nearby, the Falklands War Memorial stands as a poignant reminder of the 625 Argentinian soldiers and conscripts who died in the 1982 conflict. The marble memorial, which includes a map of the Falkland Islands set against flowing water, evokes the image of tears. The solemn atmosphere is heightened by the two soldiers who stand guard over the monument, maintaining the dignity of this tragic chapter in Argentina’s history.
Plaza San Martín, Buenos Aires
Cuisine: Empanadas and Dulce de Leche
Buenos Aires is a paradise for food lovers. A traditional Argentine meal wouldn’t be complete without empanadas, savoury pastries filled with meat, cheese, or vegetables. Street vendors and cafes offer these delights alongside asado (grilled meats) that define Argentine cuisine. For those with a sweet tooth, dulce de leche, a caramel-like spread, is a ubiquitous part of Buenos Aires’ culinary culture, appearing in everything from pastries to ice cream.
No culinary exploration of Buenos Aires would be complete without visiting Café Tortoni, the city’s most iconic café. Founded in 1858, Café Tortoni has been a gathering place for intellectuals, artists, and writers for generations. Its historic charm, complete with elegant wood panelling and stained-glass windows, makes it an essential stop for anyone wanting to soak up the local atmosphere while enjoying a coffee or the city’s favourite sweet treat.
Final Thoughts on Buenos Aires
From the bustling streets of Calle Florida, where porteños and tourists shop side by side, to the historic memorials for the fallen soldiers of the Falklands War in Plaza San Martin, Buenos Aires is a city that elegantly marries its turbulent history with a vibrant present. Its passion for football, love of tango, and the ever-present dogs roaming its streets make Buenos Aires one of the most engaging cities ever to visit.
Dragoman Patagonia Journey: Buenos Aires to Santiago de Chile
For the next leg of our tour, we took the overland company Dragoman’s journey between Buenos Aires to Santiago through many of Patagonia’s highlights in their distinctive orange trucks. The tour took 34 days starting in Buenos Aires and had 22 fellow travellers of all ages, but the majority were in their late 20s and early 30s on career breaks, with some just out of university travelling before their first graduate jobs and others in their 40s and 50s. Most were from the English-speaking world of UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and the USA, though there were also a handful from Northern European countries like Germany and Sweden. The tour had a driver and a tour leader who also shared the driving.
The tour started with a group meeting in a downtown hotel, Hotel Mundial, in Buenos Aires, but the truck had started in Rio de Janeiro a couple of weeks earlier and was ultimately going to finish in Cartagena, Colombia. Individual legs of between three and five weeks, or combinations thereof are sold. The travellers who started in Rio essentially had a couple of days in Buenos Aires before the southbound journey started on the 4th March 2018.
| Dragoman Dragoman is an adventure travel company known for its overland journeys that connect travellers with the heart of destinations in Africa, Asia, and South America. Founded in the early 1980s, Dragoman offers a unique blend of cultural experiences, outdoor activities, and community engagement, all while maintaining a focus on responsible travel. Their trips typically feature a mix of camping and comfortable accommodations, allowing for immersive experiences in remote areas while still enjoying essential comforts. With expert guides leading the way, travellers can explore iconic landmarks, local markets, and natural wonders, often venturing off the beaten path to discover hidden gems. Dragoman’s emphasis on small group sizes fosters a sense of camaraderie among participants, making each journey not just a trip, but an adventure filled with shared experiences and memories. A Dragoman truck is a specially designed overland vehicle, painted distinctively in orange, that serves as both transport and mobile accommodation for adventure travellers. Typically built on a robust chassis (often recycled Mercedes or other European makes), these trucks are equipped to handle a variety of terrains, from rugged mountain paths to smooth highways. Inside, they feature comfortable seating for passengers, often with large windows for scenic views, and ample storage for personal gear and camping equipment. Many Dragoman trucks include kitchen facilities for preparing meals, as well as a dining area where travellers can enjoy their food together, fostering a sense of community. Some models have a rooftop observation area for taking in panoramic vistas, enhancing the travel experience. The trucks are designed for efficiency and comfort, ensuring that travellers can embark on their adventures with everything they need while enjoying the journey itself. Often the city centre hotels or hostels these tours use at the start and end of the tours are pretty basic, and the Hotel Mundial was no exception. But these are basically seen as start points with real action starting when the truck is on the road. Some group activities were arranged for the night before the tour starts, here a group of travellers went to a cultural centre to witness live music in downtown Buenos Aires. |
On Tuesday 3rd of March, effectively day 3 the truck left early for the long drive down to Puerto Madryn. The distance to Puerto Madryn was approximately 1,400kms and took two days of around 11 hours driving each. Early morning traffic in Buenos Aires is intense, but once out of the city and its suburbs the landscape changed, and we were in the vast pampas’ areas of Argentina.
Our first night on the journey was spent camping in a basic campsite near a settlement called Pichi Mahuida. Dragoman supplied two-man tents and there we had our first experience of camping on the road, communal cooking in teams and the other activities of overlanding such as flapping, various truck jobs that were to become so familiar to us on these legs of the journey.
Dates: 27/02/2018 to 06/03/20188