Cali, officially known as Santiago de Cali, is the capital of the Valle del Cauca department and one of Colombia’s largest cities, with a population of approximately 2.2 million people as of recent estimates. This makes Cali the third-largest city in Colombia, following Bogotá and Medellín. It serves as a major urban centre in southwestern Colombia and a vital hub for commerce, culture, and tourism.  Cali is the heart of salsa music and dance. Again, our route by bus followed the Pan American Highway for the short journey of 138kms from Popayán to Cali’s central bus station.  Our stay at Now Hotel placed us right in the bohemian district of Granada, close to many bars and restaurants, where Cali’s modern young population and the rhythms of salsa permeate everyday life.

Geography and Climate
Located at an altitude of approximately 1,000 metres, Cali enjoys a warm, tropical savannah climate. The city is surrounded by mountains, providing a stunning backdrop for urban life and outdoor activities.

Now Hotel, Cali, Colombia

The city is known for its year-round pleasant temperatures, which typically range from 19°C to 30°C (66°F to 86°F). The climate is characterised by two distinct seasons: the dry season (December to March) and the rainy season (April to November), with frequent rain showers that contribute to the lush greenery of the Valle del Cauca. Due to its geographical location near the equator, the city experiences little variation in daylight hours throughout the year.

This temperate climate and fertile surrounding regions make Cali not only a cultural capital but also a significant agricultural centre, known for sugar cane and coffee production.

History and Economy
Cali, officially founded as Santiago de Cali on 25 July 1536 by Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar, has a dynamic history shaped by indigenous, colonial, and modern influences. Prior to Spanish arrival, the region was inhabited by the Cali, Jamundí, and Lilí peoples, who had established thriving agricultural communities. The city initially served as a key colonial settlement, linking the highlands with the Pacific coast and boosting trade in gold, textiles, and agricultural goods. By the 18th century, Cali became a centre of agricultural production, specialising in sugarcane, which would later play a crucial role in its economic identity. In the 20th century, particularly during the 1970s and 1980s, Cali’s economy expanded rapidly, and the city became known for its vibrant salsa culture and major annual events like the Feria de Cali. Unfortunately, this period also saw the rise of the Cali Cartel, which gained international notoriety in the 1990s. However, in recent years, Cali has focused on tourism, cultural heritage, and urban renewal, celebrating its Afro-Colombian and indigenous influences, which remain integral to the city’s identity.

Principal Sites and Districts of Cali
The districts of Cali each bring unique charm to the city’s character. San Antonio, the historic heart, is known for its cobbled streets, colonial architecture, and thriving arts scene. Nestled atop a small hill, San Antonio offers panoramic views of the city, particularly from its iconic San Antonio Church, where locals and tourists gather for sunsets. Just north, Granada has evolved into a chic area renowned for its upscale restaurants, bars, and boutiques, making it a hotspot for nightlife and gastronomy. San Pedro, the financial district, hosts a blend of modern buildings and landmarks like the Iglesia de San Pedro, a classic church symbolising the area’s rich heritage. Meanwhile, Centenario blends history with innovation, housing cultural landmarks like the Museo La Tertulia alongside modern galleries and theatres. Lastly, La Merced showcases Cali’s colonial past with the La Merced Church and Monastery, one of the city’s oldest religious sites, where local culture, history, and art converge, offering a glimpse into Cali’s early foundations.

Plaza de Caycedo
Cali’s historic centre is anchored by the Plaza de Caycedo, a large public square named after Joaquín de Caycedo y Cuero, a prominent figure in Colombia’s independence movement. The plaza has long been a focal point for civic gatherings and political events, reflecting its deep connection to the city’s history. Surrounded by important governmental and commercial buildings, the plaza is shaded by wax palms, Colombia’s national tree, which can reach impressive heights of 60 metres. Historically, the plaza has witnessed significant moments, from colonial times to the independence era, serving as a symbol of Cali’s enduring spirit. Its central location makes it an ideal starting point for exploring the city’s key attractions.

Plaza de Caycedo, Cali, Colombia

Cali Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de San Pedro)
The Metropolitan Cathedral of San Pedro, commonly known as Cali Cathedral, is one of the most important religious buildings in the city. Located on the north side of the Plaza de Caycedo, the cathedral’s construction began in 1772 and was completed in 1841. Built on the site of an earlier 16th-century chapel, the cathedral showcases a blend of Neoclassical and Baroque elements. Its interior is relatively austere compared to other Latin American cathedrals, but it holds several valuable religious relics and artworks, including a beautifully carved pulpit. The cathedral is a spiritual centre for the people of Cali, hosting major religious events throughout the year.

Iglesia de la Merced
The Iglesia de la Merced is one of Cali’s oldest and most historically significant churches, dating back to 1678. It was here, in the heart of colonial Cali, that the city’s first Mass was celebrated. The church, along with its adjacent convent and museum, forms part of a larger religious complex that tells the story of the early days of Spanish influence in the region. The whitewashed adobe walls and traditional Spanish colonial architecture make it a serene and beautiful place to visit. Inside, the altarpiece and religious art reflect a long history of devotion. Today, it stands as a National Monument, preserving centuries of religious and cultural history.

Iglesia de la Merced, Cali, Colombia

Iglesia La Ermita
La Ermita is one of Cali’s most iconic churches, instantly recognisable due to its Gothic-inspired architecture. Although the current structure was built in 1942, it replaced a much older chapel that dated back to 1602, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 1925. The new building, with its intricate façade and white and blue colour scheme, evokes the feel of a wedding cake. Located near the Cali River, La Ermita is beloved by locals not just for its aesthetic charm, but also for its association with peace and tranquillity. Inside, visitors can find a wooden image of Christ, known as the Señor de la Caña, which dates to the 18th century.

Iglesia La Ermita, Cali, Colombia

Iglesia de San Francisco
The Iglesia de San Francisco, constructed in the early 18th century, is one of the finest examples of religious architecture in Cali. It forms part of a larger complex that includes a convent and a colonial bell tower (Torre Mudéjar), built in 1776. This tower, unique in Colombia, is one of the few remaining examples of Mudéjar-style architecture in South America, blending Spanish and Moorish influences. The church itself, with its Baroque altars and religious artworks, is a testament to the skill of the artisans of the time. San Francisco also holds historical significance as a place where religious orders helped shape the cultural and educational landscape of the region.

Iglesia de San Francisco, Cali, Colombia

Parque de la Retreta
Parque de la Retreta, located by the Cali River, is one of the city’s most picturesque green spaces. The park is known for its open-air music performances at the pavilion, the “Retreta,” which was inaugurated in 1926 and designed to reflect Cali’s vibrant musical culture. The park is an ideal spot to relax after visiting nearby historical sites such as La Ermita, and it offers beautiful views of the river. It’s a popular place for locals to gather on weekends, reflecting the importance of music and public spaces in Cali’s cultural life.

San Antonio & Parque del Acueducto
San Antonio is one of the oldest and most charming neighbourhoods in Cali, renowned for its colonial-style houses and bohemian vibe. It sits on a hill, offering panoramic views of the city, especially from the park at the top, known as Parque del Acueducto. This area is also home to the Iglesia de San Antonio, a quaint 18th-century chapel that crowns the hill. The neighbourhood is a haven for artists, musicians, and writers, and its narrow streets are lined with galleries, cafés, and artisanal shops. The park itself is a favourite spot for both locals and tourists to relax, particularly in the evenings when street performers often entertain the crowds.

Iglesia de San Antonio, Cali, Colombia

Gatos del Río (The Cats of the River)
Perhaps one of Cali’s most unique attractions, the Gatos del Río, or the “Cats of the River,” is a collection of large feline sculptures installed along the banks of the Cali River. The original sculpture, known as “El Gato del Río,” was created by artist Hernando Tejada in 1996. Over the years, additional cat sculptures, each uniquely painted by different artists, have been added, turning the area into an open-air gallery. These playful and colourful sculptures have become a symbol of the city, representing both its artistic flair and its love for public art.

Gatos del Río, Cali, Colombia

Salsa Culture
Cali is widely regarded as the salsa capital of the world, with numerous clubs and dance schools dedicated to this energetic dance form. The city comes alive at night as locals gather to dance and celebrate their rich musical heritage, making it a vibrant and dynamic cultural hub.

Food
Cali offers a rich culinary scene, blending local Colombian flavours with international influences.  A couple of the best restaurants we tried were:

• Compañía del Mar, located in the Granada district, Compañía del Mar is highly regarded for its seafood offerings. The restaurant prides itself on using fresh ingredients to create dishes that combine traditional Colombian seafood recipes with Mediterranean influences. and
• Ringlete also located in the Granada district, Ringlete is a popular spot that celebrates Vallecaucana cuisine—local dishes from the Valle del Cauca region

Compañía del Mar and BBC Bar, Granada District, Cali, Colombia

Legacy of the Cali Cartel The legacy of the Cali Cartel, once a powerful drug trafficking organisation, still lingers in the city’s collective memory. However, Cali has worked hard to transform its image, embracing tourism and cultural initiatives that showcase its resilience and vibrancy in the face of past challenges.

Street Art, Cali, Colombia

Final Thoughts
Cali is a city of lively contrasts, where deep-rooted traditions meet a thriving, modern urban culture. Its districts reveal layers of history, from the colonial charm of San Antonio to the chic vibe of Granada, each adding depth to the city’s story. Whether dancing to salsa rhythms, exploring historic plazas, or enjoying local cuisine, visitors can feel the warmth and pride of Cali’s people, who have embraced both their cultural heritage and the spirit of renewal. This city, resilient in the face of challenges and rich in artistic energy, continues to enchant travellers with its vibrant heart and endless discoveries.

Dates: 01/09/2018 to 03/09/2018 and 24/05/2022 to 27/05/2022