The Carretera Austral, or Route 7, is one of Chile’s most iconic roadways, carving a road through the dramatic landscapes of Patagonia. Stretching over 1,200 kilometres from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, this remote and rugged route is a gateway to pristine fjords, ancient glaciers, turquoise rivers, and charming towns. Opened in 1988 after decades of construction under the military government of Augusto Pinochet, it was initially built to connect isolated communities in southern Chile and also to ensure that Chilean sovereignty over this territory was protected. Today, it is celebrated as one of the world’s great road trips, attracting adventurers and nature lovers alike.

Back in 2018 we travelled up the Argentinian Ruta 40, which is quite a contrast to the much more lush and green Carretera Austral.

Carretera Austral

Preparation & Essentials

Driving the Carretera Austral requires careful planning, as many sections remain unpaved, and weather conditions can be unpredictable. The road becomes unpaved just south of Villa Cerro Castillo, meaning drivers must be prepared for loose gravel, potholes, and dust. A 4WD vehicle is highly recommended to handle rough terrain. Maps.me was invaluable for navigation, as its offline maps and GPS functionality ensured reliable route-finding despite limited mobile coverage.

Flat tyres are a common issue on unpaved roads – we experienced a puncture during our trip. It’s important to note that most hire car insurance policies do not cover flat tyres, so carrying a spare and knowing how to change it is essential.

Fuel stations are limited, particularly in remote areas, so carry extra fuel and always refuel when possible. Additionally, some parts of the route require ferries, particularly between Puerto Montt and Chaitén, as well as for accessing remote sections near Villa O’Higgins. Checking ferry schedules in advance is essential to avoid long waiting times.

It’s also advisable to stock up on food, water, and emergency supplies, as shops and restaurants can be sparse outside major towns.

Driving the unmade Carretera Austral

Climate in the Region

We travelled in January, the height of the Patagonian summer. While temperatures were relatively mild (ranging from 10°C to 25°C), conditions can change rapidly, with sudden rain and strong winds. Layers, waterproofs, and sun protection are all necessary. In the summer it should be noted that the UV can be very high, so sun protection is recommended.

Day 1: Balmaceda Airport to Puerto Tranquilo (220 kms)

Our journey began at Balmaceda Airport, a key entry point to Patagonia. From here, we drove approximately 220 kilometres to Puerto Tranquilo, a quaint lakeside village on the shores of Lago General Carrera. The route took us through stunning Andean scenery, with snow-capped peaks, verdant valleys, and winding rivers accompanying our drive.

Key Stops Along the Way:

• Cerro Castillo Village: This small town is a perfect place for a short break and offers views of the dramatic Cerro Castillo mountain. The town was historically a ranching hub and is known for its connections to Patagonian gaucho culture and also made a convenient lunch time stop to break our journey.
• Lago General Carrera: As we approached Puerto Tranquilo, the lake’s striking turquoise waters come into view, offering plenty of photo opportunities.

Where we stayed and ate in Puerto Tranquilo:

• Hostel El Puerto: A cosy and welcoming accommodation with rustic charm, with typical wooden panelling etc. provided us easy access to local attractions.
• Casa Bruja: A delightful restaurant, highly recommended in Trip Advisor, and  serving hearty Patagonian fare, with a focus on fresh local ingredients all washed down with local beer brewed on the premisis. Highlights include grilled salmon, a regional specialty, and lamb stews.
• Cervecería Río Tranquilo: Perfect for relaxing after a day of travel, this brewery offers a range of craft beers, including pale ales and darker porters inspired by Patagonian flavours.

Hotel El Puerto, Casa Bruja, Local Beer and Calafate Sour

Day 2: Marble Caves and Mirador Glaciar Exploradores

We started our day with a boat trip to the Marble Caves (Cuevas de Mármol), one of Patagonia’s most extraordinary natural wonders. These swirling, marble-like formations have been sculpted by centuries of wave action on Lago General Carrera, creating mesmerising patterns in shades of blue and white.

The Marble Caves: A Natural Masterpiece

The Marble Caves consist of three main formations: La Capilla (The Chapel), El Catedral (The Cathedral), and La Cueva (The Cave). Each structure has been naturally eroded over thousands of years by the movement of the lake’s waters, forming intricate caverns and archways.

• La Capilla (The Chapel): A small, rounded rock formation standing alone in the lake, with delicate patterns that resemble the marbling of fine stonework.
• El Catedral (The Cathedral): The largest and most impressive of the formations, featuring towering columns and grand archways that create a dramatic, cathedral-like effect. The play of light and water reflections makes it an ever-changing spectacle.
• La Cueva (The Cave): A series of tunnels and smaller caverns that allow boats and kayaks to glide through, offering close-up views of the swirling patterns and iridescent hues of the rock.

The intensity of the blue reflections changes throughout the day depending on the sunlight and water conditions, making each visit a unique experience. Kayaking tours allow for a more intimate exploration of these formations, letting visitors glide into narrow passageways where the rock meets the shimmering turquoise waters.

The Marble Caves

In the afternoon, drive approximately 52 kilometres to the Mirador Glaciar Exploradores, a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Exploradores Glacier. Along the way, we encountered lush forests and cascading rivers, emblematic of the region’s untamed beauty.

Mirador Glaciar Exploradores

Day 3: Drive to Tortel (224kms)

Continue south along the Carretera Austral to the unique village of Caleta Tortel (224 km from Puerto Tranquilo). Known for its wooden walkways and stilt houses, Tortel is a car-free town where wooden pathways connect homes, shops, and viewpoints, creating an enchanting labyrinth.

Caleta Tortel

History of Caleta Tortel:

Tortel was founded in 1955 to support the logging industry, particularly the extraction of Guaitecas cypress(Pilgerodendron uviferum), a highly valuable and rot-resistant timber. Before road access was built, the town was only reachable by boat, further reinforcing its unique architectural style based on elevated wooden pathways rather than streets.

Key Stops Along the Route:

• Confluencia Río Baker/Río Neff: This viewpoint showcases the dramatic confluence of two rivers, where the deep turquoise of the Río Baker meets the milky waters of the Río Neff.
• Cochrane: A small town ideal for refuelling and stocking up on supplies. You can also enjoy views of the surrounding mountains and rivers. Cochrane was founded in 1954 as part of Chile’s efforts to settle and develop Patagonia. The town played a key role in livestock farming and remains an important centre for cattle ranching. Cochrane offers several restaurants featuring traditional dishes such as asado al palo (spit-roasted lamb).

Confluencia Río Baker/Río Neff

We stayed at the Entre Hélios Lodge, which is perched up one of the steep sets of steps amidst lush greenery, this eco-lodge offers stunning views of the surrounding landscapes and a peaceful retreat after a day of exploration. The lodge also serves local delicacies, including freshly caught trout and artisanal cheeses.

Day 4: Drive to Puerto Guadal (224 kms)

On Day 4, we drove north, retracing our steps along the Carretera Austral to Puerto Guadal, situated on the southern shore of Lago General Carrera. This charming village is known for its tranquil atmosphere and access to nearby attractions.

We stayed at the Terra Luna Lodge, which is nestled along the lake shore.  This lodge offers comfortable accommodations and activities such as kayaking, fishing, and hiking. Guests can also enjoy meals featuring local salmon, accompanied by vegetables grown in the lodge’s garden.  The lodge offers a number of trips / excursions but often these have to be arranged in advance in order to ensure that there are enough numbers.

Terra Luna Lodge and Lago General Carrera

Day 5: Patagonia National Park

Patagonia National Park was established through the efforts of Tompkins Conservation, led by Kris and the late Doug Tompkins. The land, once overgrazed by cattle ranching, was painstakingly restored, allowing native species to thrive. The park became part of Chile’s national park system in 2018.

Visitors can explore its rolling grasslands, jagged peaks, and pristine rivers, making it a prime location for hiking and wildlife spotting.  

Patagonia National Park

Key wildlife visible in the Park, include:

• Guanacos (Lama guanicoe) breed in November–December, giving birth to chulengos in late summer.
• Andean condors (Vultur gryphus) lay eggs in July–August, with chicks hatching in early spring.
• Huemul (Hippocamelus bisulcus), an endangered species, is a national symbol and features in Chile’s coat of arms, and has been successfully reintroduced in the Park.
• Zorro culpeo (Lycalopex culpaeus), a Patagonian fox often seen in forested areas.
• Lesser rhea (Rhea pennata), a large flightless bird common in grasslands.
• Armadillos, including the pichi (Zaedyus pichiy), burrow in arid areas of Patagonia.

Day 6 Return to Balmaceda Airport (370 kms)

For our 12:30 flight at Balmaceda Airport to Puerto Montt, we had to set off at around 5 am in the morning to drive the 4 and half plus hours to Balmaceda on the largely unmade roads

Regional Cuisine

• Salmon, a staple of Patagonian cuisine, is notable for its large size and deep orange-pink colour due to its diet in the cold waters. It is often grilled, smoked, or served as ceviche.
• Lamb (cordero) is a traditional dish, frequently prepared as asado al palo, where it is slow-cooked over an open fire.
• Calafate berries, used in desserts, jams, and liqueurs including the Calafate sour, the Patagonian equivalent of Chile’s national pisco sour cocktail.
• Microbreweries produce a variety of craft beers. Examples include Cerveza Austral, Tropera, and Baguales, which offer locally brewed pale ales, stouts, and lagers.  Many of the small bars and retaurants we visited brewed their beers on the premisis
• Bread, all over Chilean Patagonia – homemade bread is a staple of the Chilean diet and the bread served in hotels and restaurants is predominantly home made and so much tastier than mass produced breads.
• Empanadas de cordero – lamb-stuffed empanadas are a popular snack.
• King crab (centolla) – a prized seafood delicacy, often served with melted butter or in creamy stews.

Final thoughts

Driving the Carretera Austral is an unforgettable adventure through one of the world’s last great wildernesses. The journey offers breathtaking landscapes, vibrant culture, and remote tranquillity. While the unpaved roads and unpredictable weather demand careful planning, the rewards are unparalleled—glaciers, turquoise rivers, dense forests, and unique wildlife at every turn. For those seeking a true Patagonian adventure, this route is an absolute must.