Cartagena de Indias located on Colombia’s sunny Caribbean coast, with its colonial charm, is considered the crown jewel of the country’s tourism industry, and also one of South America’s premier tourist destinations. The walled city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has a population of about 11,000 residents, while the wider urban area, including neighbourhoods such as Bocagrande, Manga, and Getsemaní, swells to over a million people.   

With its vibrant colonial architecture, complete with pastel-coloured buildings, lively plazas, and a rich history, Cartagena’s walled city (Ciudad Amurallada) has become a magnet for tourists due to its unique blend of historic charm, colourful culture, and upscale modern amenities, while the city’s working-class areas, such as Getsemaní, maintain a more traditional feel. Its proximity to pristine Caribbean beaches, such as the Rosario Islands, adds to its allure.

Historically Cartagena de Indias, located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, was always a vibrant and colourful city, and is renowned as the crown jewel of Colombia’s colonial history. Cartagena’s strategic coastal position made it a hub of trade during the Spanish Empire and a key target for pirate attacks.

We took a direct overnight bus for nearly 24 hours from Medellín the 634kms to Cartagena, thereby completing our epic journey overland on the South American leg of the Pan American Highway.  In Cartagena we stayed at these boutique hotels in the old town:

• Casa Milat Hotel Boutique By HMC (September 2018): Located in a beautifully restored colonial building, Casa Milat Hotel Boutique offers a blend of modern comfort and historical charm. The hotel features elegant decor, a small pool, and an inviting courtyard.
• Hotel Puertas de Cartagena (December 2018): This boutique hotel is known for its stylish interiors and warm hospitality. Set within a charming colonial structure, it offers comfortable rooms with a contemporary touch. Guests can enjoy a rooftop terrace with stunning views of the city.
• Hotel Tres Banderas (May 2022): Situated in the heart of the old town, Hotel Tres Banderas boasts a cozy atmosphere with rustic decor. The hotel features a lovely courtyard where guests can unwind.

Pan American Highway The Pan American Highway stretches approximately 30,000 kilometres (19,000 miles) from Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina, to Cartagena on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, forming an epic route that traverses diverse landscapes and cultures. Often considered the “spine of the Andes,” the highway winds through the majestic mountain range, offering breathtaking views of towering peaks and lush valleys. This monumental journey took us through various countries, from the rugged terrains of Chile and Argentina to the vibrant cultures of Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia. Along the way, we encountered a rich tapestry of natural beauty, historical sites, and bustling cities, making it one of the most iconic road trips in the world.

Geography and Climate

Situated on the Caribbean coast, Cartagena experiences a tropical climate, with consistently warm temperatures year-round, often exceeding 30°C (86°F). The city is built on flat terrain, surrounded by the Caribbean Sea to the west and protected by its renowned fortifications. its location on the Caribbean coast means it is humid, with an average humidity of around 80%. The climate brings wet and dry seasons, with the wettest months being May to November. Breezes from the sea offer some relief from the heat, particularly in the walled city’s shaded streets.

History

Cartagena was founded in 1533 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia, on the site of a Carib settlement. It quickly grew into one of the most important ports in the Americas due to its proximity to trade routes.

Cartagena was attacked multiple times by French, British, and Dutch pirates, the most famous attack being by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. To protect the city from future raids, the Spanish crown commissioned the construction of an extensive series of fortifications, including the impressive Castillo San Felipe de Barajas and the city’s iconic walls, which still stand today as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The Palacio de la Inquisición, a grim reminder of the city’s colonial past, served as the centre of the Spanish Inquisition, where alleged heretics were tried and executed.

Over time, Cartagena became synonymous with both wealth and suffering, as it was also a significant hub for the transatlantic slave trade.

In modern history, Cartagena played a key role in Colombia’s struggle for independence from Spain. Simón Bolívar used the city as a base in his campaign against Spanish rule. Today, the city has transformed into a popular tourist destination, retaining its colonial charm while embracing modernity in neighbourhoods like Bocagrande, with its towering skyscrapers.

Economics

Cartagena’s economy is driven by tourism, port activities, and petrochemicals. The walled city and surrounding areas have seen extensive gentrification, converting colonial buildings into boutique hotels, restaurants, and luxury shops catering to international tourists and cruise ship passengers. Meanwhile, outside the historical centre, commerce continues to thrive in the bustling markets and along the port. The port itself is one of the busiest in Colombia, facilitating international trade, while the oil and gas industry contributes significantly to the city’s economy.

When a cruise ship docks, the old town can feel a bit overwhelmed by the number of cruise ship visitors, many of whom spend little money in Cartagena other than a few souvenirs, as the cruise ships cater for most of their food etc.  Increasingly, as with other popular port destinations, these visitors can lead to potential conflict.  Of course, the cruise ships will pay substantial sums to dock, but Cartagena is increasingly looking to cater more for the wealthier visitors who stay in the many boutique hotels and utilise the bars and restaurants.  These visitors today don’t just come from Europe and North America as there is a burgeoning middle class in both Colombia and other countries of Latin America that today make up significant proportion of visitors to Cartagena.

Principal Sites

Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría (Cartagena Cathedral)
Built between 1577 and 1612, the cathedral stands as one of the oldest in the Americas. Its bright yellow façade reflects the colonial architecture, and its bell tower is a city landmark.  Inside, the high vaulted ceilings and intricate altars display religious art that reflects the city’s history.

Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría , Cartagena

Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad
This simple church is located in Getsemani, a traditionally working-class neighbourhood. It dates back to the 1600s and is still a gathering point for locals today, particularly during its vibrant evening festivities.

Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad and Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, Cartagena

Iglesia de San Pedro Claver
This church, completed in the 1600s, is dedicated to Saint Peter Claver, the patron saint of enslaved people, and is a poignant reminder of the city’s colonial past.saint who advocated for the humane treatment of enslaved Africans. Its baroque design, with heavy stone walls and an intricately carved façade, adds to its historical weight.  Known for its serene interior, this church houses ornate wooden sculptures and vibrant stained-glass windows. 

Iglesia de Santo Domingo
The city’s oldest church, built in 1539, features a simple yet robust design. Saint Peter Claver, the patron saint of enslaved people, and is a poignant reminder of the city’s colonial past.  It is located in Plaza Santo Domingo, where a Botero statue, Gertrudis (the Reclining Woman), now resides.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo and Torre del Reloj, Cartagena

Clock Tower
The Torre del Reloj marks the main gateway into the old town, standing tall with its iconic yellow colour. Dating back to 1601, it served both as a lookout and as the principal point of entry through the city’s defences.

Walls and Forts
The city walls are among the most complete and well-preserved in the Americas. Built over several centuries, they protected Cartagena from pirate attacks, including those from Sir Francis Drake, who managed to sack the city in 1586. Visitors can now walk along these fortified walls, taking in views of both the historic streets and the Caribbean Sea.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
The Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a monumental fortress that dominates the Cartagena skyline. Built by the Spanish in the 16th century, it features an extensive network of tunnels and galleries designed for defence. These tunnels provided strategic advantages, allowing for movement of troops and supplies while protecting against enemy attacks. Visitors can explore these underground passages, which add a sense of adventure to the historical experience. The castle’s strategic position also offers panoramic views of the city and the Caribbean Sea, making it a popular tourist attraction.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, Cartagena

Plazas and Statues
Cartagena’s plazas each offer unique perspectives of the city’s history:

• Getsemaní Statues: Throughout Getsemaní, vibrant iron sculptures by artists like Carmona depict local residents in everyday scenes. These quirky and charming works of art provide insight into the daily lives of Cartagena’s working-class residents.
• Plaza Bolívar: A leafy square with a central statue of Simón Bolívar, this plaza is often filled with locals and visitors enjoying the shade and the nearby museums, including the Palacio de la Inquisición. This building, once the site of horrific inquisitions, now offers a museum chronicling its dark past.
• Plaza de la Trinidad: A lively space at the heart of Getsemaní, this plaza often features live music and local art. It’s a vibrant hub where visitors can experience the local culture and community.
• Plaza de San Diego: Known for its lively atmosphere, this plaza boasts several dining options and bars, perfect for enjoying the local culinary scene amidst the historic surroundings.
• Plaza de San Pedro Claver: Known for its series of modern iron sculptures by artist Edgardo Carmona, depicting everyday Colombian life. These works, while playful, also nod to the city’s history, reflecting on themes of labour and community.  The plaza honours the patron saint of enslaved people. It’s a moving tribute to the city’s complex history.
• Plaza de Santo Domingo: Here, the famous Botero statue Gertrudis, a voluptuous reclining figure, adds a modern artistic touch to the colonial setting. The figure’s shiny belly is a testament to the many hands that have touched it for good luck.
• Plaza Fernández de Madrid: Surrounded by restaurants and bars, this plaza is a great spot to unwind and sample local cuisine. The area is known for its vibrant nightlife, making it a popular destination for both locals and visitors.

Broader Street Scenes and Colonial Architecture
Walking through the walled city, the narrow streets are lined with colonial houses painted in a palette of pastel shades, their balconies often adorned with trailing bougainvillea. Many of these buildings, with their multicoloured shutters, have been restored as boutique hotels, stylish restaurants, and high-end shops. Each street offers a blend of history and modernity, with occasional open-air markets selling artisanal crafts, jewellery, and souvenirs.

The Plaza de los Coches, just inside the Clock Tower, often hosts a lively street market, while Plaza Bolívar offers a more serene environment, with its large trees providing shade to locals and tourists alike. Getsemaní, with its narrow streets and vibrant murals, is a photographer’s dream and offers a glimpse into the less polished side of Cartagena.

Palacio de la Inquisición
The Palacio de la Inquisición, once the seat of the Spanish Inquisition, now serves as a museum detailing the brutal history of the Inquisition in Cartagena. Exhibits include instruments of torture, historical documents, and artefacts that tell the story of those persecuted under the guise of religious conformity. The museum’s architecture itself is striking, with beautiful colonial facades and a tranquil courtyard.

Fruit Ladies

One of Cartagena’s most iconic sights, the palenqueras are women dressed in brightly coloured traditional outfits, selling fruit from large bowls balanced on their heads. Their presence is both a visual delight and a symbol of the city’s Afro-Colombian culture. For a small fee, tourists can take photos with them, adding a splash of colour to the streets.

Food, Bars, and Restaurants

Cartagena’s culinary scene is as diverse as its history. Café del Mar, perched atop the city walls, offers stunning views and refreshing cocktails, making it a perfect sunset spot. ALMA Restaurante serves innovative cuisine inspired by local flavours, while Restaurante San Pedro provides a fine dining experience with an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients. Street food stalls offer delicious snacks, such as arepas and empanadas, adding to the culinary landscape.

Environmental Challenges

Cartagena faces several environmental issues, including coastal erosion and pollution, exacerbated by urban development and climate change. Efforts are underway to preserve the integrity of the city’s fortifications and protect the nearby marine environment, particularly the coral reefs that attract divers and snorkelers.

Final Thoughts

Cartagena de Indias, with its enchanting blend of history, culture, and vibrant life, remains one of South America’s top destinations. The city’s colonial architecture, lively plazas, and rich culinary scene make it a haven for travelers. As Cartagena continues to evolve, it retains a deep connection to its past, inviting visitors to explore its colourful streets, enjoy its culinary delights, and immerse themselves in its unique culture.

Dates: 11/09/2018 to 16/09/2018 and 15/12/2018 to 18/12/2018 plus 04/05/2022 to 13/05/2022