Dates: 25/08/2018 to 31/08/2018 and 30/05/2022 to 06/06/2022

Southern Colombia is home to two of the country’s most important archaeological sites—San Agustín and Tierradentro—both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These ancient locations provide a rare glimpse into pre-Columbian cultures whose identities remain largely mysterious. With their intricate statues, burial chambers, and tombs, these sites offer both an archaeological treasure trove and a physical challenge, accessible only via winding mountain roads and rugged terrain.

The region surrounding these sites is as captivating as the history itself, with the Magdalena River carving its way through lush green valleys, rolling hills, and coffee plantations. Exploring this area requires patience and determination, particularly due to the logistical challenges of reaching Tierradentro. However, those who make the journey are rewarded with a profound connection to ancient cultures amidst the stunning landscapes of Colombia’s green heart. 

We first went to San Agustín in 1989 when it was a very small town well off the beaten track and hardly any visitors.  Today the town still retains much of its charm, has many more facilities, and is beginning to be discovered by the more adventurous independent traveller.  However, even today with Colombia’s increasing popularity as a tourist destination, the South remains relatively untouched and if you have the time, it is a destination well worth the effort to get to.  Also the area around San Agustín and the wider Huila Province offers some of the best coffee in Colombia without the crowds of the Zona Cafetera.

Geography, Climate, and Altitude
Both San Agustín and Tierradentro are situated in Andean valleys. The area around San Agustín lies at an altitude of around 1,730 metres, with a mild climate that is perfect for agriculture. Tierradentro, slightly higher at 1,800 metres, also experiences a temperate climate. The region is blessed with fertile soil, making it one of Colombia’s most productive agricultural areas. Rain can fall at any time, but the weather is generally pleasant, with daytime temperatures ranging from 18°C to 24°C.

History and Discovery
Both sites were likely centres of ceremonial importance for the now-lost pre-Colombian cultures that inhabited the region. Though much about these cultures remains unknown, the statues and tombs of San Agustín reveal a highly sophisticated civilisation that used art to convey spiritual and social messages. The statues in San Agustín are thought to represent gods, ancestors, and mythological beings, while the painted tombs of Tierradentro hint at complex burial rituals. The Spanish conquest and subsequent colonisation erased much of the oral history of these peoples, leaving behind only these enigmatic remnants.

While little is known about this culture, scholars have drawn comparisons with other pre-Columbian Andean civilisations, noting its emphasis on ancestor worship and the afterlife. Unlike the Incas, the San Agustín culture didn’t leave behind grand cities, but their mastery of stone carving and symbolic art indicates a society with complex social and religious systems.

San Agustín: Statues, Rivers, and Coffee Fields

San Agustín, one of Colombia’s most significant pre-Columbian archaeological sites, is located in the department of Huila. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, due to its unique cultural significance, the region is home to one of the world’s largest collections of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures, the origins of which remain shrouded in mystery. The site dates from between 100 AD and 900 AD, and its creators, often referred to as the San Agustín culture, predate the Incan Empire but share certain traits with Andean cultures that followed. The extensive statues and tombs reflect a complex society deeply engaged in religious and funerary rites.

Town of San Agustín
The small town of San Agustín itself is a tranquil base for visitors to explore the archaeological sites. Its narrow streets, lined with local shops, cafes, and artisanal stalls, create a pleasant contrast to the grandeur of the ancient statues. San Agustín is a hub for Colombia’s burgeoning coffee industry, and the surrounding region of Huila is one of the top coffee-producing areas in the country, famed for its smooth, aromatic beans. Many local farms offer coffee tours, providing insight into the cultivation process and the vital role coffee plays in the region’s economy.  The region’s coffee industry uses the image and name recognition of San Agustín to market its coffee.

San Agustín Archaeological Park
San Agustín Archaeological Park, located near the town of San Agustín, is one of the most important archaeological sites in South America. Spanning 116 hectares, this site is renowned for its monumental stone statues and tombs. It is believed that the site was developed between the 1st and 8th centuries AD by an unknown culture that carved impressive statues from volcanic rock. These groupings of statues and burial mounds represent both mythical creatures and human figures, thought to be either warriors, gods, or ancestral leaders. The statues, some towering as high as seven metres, are characterised by their vivid expressions and symbolic elements, such as jaguars, eagles, and serpents.  These statues are known for their diversity—ranging from abstract to realistic depictions of humans, gods, and animals.

The main archaeological site of San Agustín is divided into several key areas:

Mesita A is part of a group of mounds and terraces where ancient tombs and statues were discovered. This area is distinguished by large, intricately carved statues standing guard over burial sites, often depicting human figures with animal features, believed to represent deities or spirits. The site also contains tombs with stone chambers, some of which feature impressive sarcophagi. The arrangement of the statues and tombs suggests ceremonial importance, with each sculpture possibly guarding the buried elite or religious leaders.

Mesita B is similar to Mesita A but slightly smaller. It also features burial mounds and anthropomorphic statues. Notable for its statues of warriors or shamanic figures holding ceremonial objects, Mesita B illustrates the social hierarchy of the San Agustín culture, where leaders and shamans likely held significant religious power. The statues often convey a sense of authority, and the tombs here are arranged in an orderly fashion, reflecting the structured nature of ancient funerary rites.

Mesita C is another part of this key group and features smaller tombs but equally impressive statues. The figures here tend to be more compact, often depicting animals like jaguars or eagles, animals that were sacred in the local cosmology. Many of the statues in Mesita C are more stylised, showing less realism but emphasising spiritual qualities or mythological elements, possibly representing guardians of the afterlife.

The Fuente de Lavapatas is one of the most unique and enigmatic features of the San Agustín complex. This ceremonial site is carved directly into a rocky riverbed and features a series of interconnected channels, pools, and carved figures. It is believed to have been used for ritualistic bathing or water ceremonies, possibly associated with fertility or spiritual purification. The carvings in the riverbed depict humans and animals, including reptiles and amphibians, linking the site to the natural elements of water and life. The precise function of the Fuente de Lavapatas remains a subject of debate, but its elaborate design suggests that it played a significant role in the spiritual practices of the San Agustín civilisation.

Located on a nearby hill, Alto de Lavapatas offers a panoramic view of the surrounding valley and features several large statues and burial mounds. The statues here are known for their impressive size and imposing presence, some of which are believed to depict warriors or deities. This elevated site may have been used for important ceremonies, possibly related to the governance of the surrounding area, as the height and position give it a commanding view of the landscape. The statues at Alto de Lavapatas are typically more detailed than those found at other areas, with intricate carvings representing ceremonial objects and symbolic animals.

The Bosque de las Estatuas (Forest of Statues) is a walking trail that meanders through a forested area, displaying 39 statues in their natural setting. These statues were relocated from various parts of the San Agustín region to this area for preservation and exhibition purposes. The Bosque de las Estatuas offers a unique experience, as the figures seem to emerge organically from the forest, creating an atmosphere that evokes the ancient spirituality of the region. Many of the statues depict mythical beings or guardian spirits, and the natural environment enhances the mystical experience of the site.

The Museo Arqueológico de San Agustín is located at the entrance to the main archaeological park and provides valuable context for visitors. The museum houses a collection of artefacts, including pottery, tools, and smaller statues, which help illustrate the daily life and spiritual practices of the San Agustín people. The exhibits explain the historical timeline of the civilisation, the significance of the statues, and the funerary customs of the region. Detailed explanations of the various symbols and motifs found on the statues are also provided, helping visitors to better understand the cultural and religious beliefs of this ancient society.

Beyond the main site, there are a number of other principal sites, including   Alto de Las Piedras and Alto de Los Idolos present further fascinating finds and need to add a couple of extra days to any trip to San Agustín to enable a more complete experience.

Alto de los Ídolos
Located about 4 kilometres from the town of San Agustín, Alto de los Ídolos is a major archaeological site and one of the most important in the region. The site features large burial mounds and statues, with some of the tallest stone figures found in the entire San Agustín area, measuring up to 7 metres in height. The statues typically depict human figures with a mix of animal features, believed to represent spiritual deities or guardians of the tombs. The ceremonial site also includes tombs with intricately carved sarcophagi. Alto de los Ídolos is recognised for its detailed carvings and the symbolic significance attached to the sculptures, thought to represent power and the connection between the living and the dead.

Alto de las Piedras
Alto de las Piedras, located near Alto de los Ídolos, is another key archaeological site. It features large, monumental statues carved from volcanic stone, typically representing mythological beings or shamanic figures. The sculptures at Alto de las Piedras are known for their impressive scale and fine detailing, with some figures holding ritual objects or weapons. One of the standout statues is the “Double Yo” featuring two faces on one body, which is interpreted as a representation of duality, possibly symbolising life and death or day and night. The tombs at this site are less elaborately constructed than those at Alto de los Ídolos, but the site is equally significant for understanding the spiritual and ceremonial practices of the ancient San Agustín culture.

Chaquira
Located on a hilltop overlooking the majestic Magdalena River valley, Chaquira is a unique site due to its spectacular setting and the nature of its carvings. Unlike the freestanding statues found at other sites, Chaquira features rock carvings (petroglyphs) etched into large boulders scattered across the hilltop. These carvings are believed to have deep spiritual significance, possibly representing the connection between the earth, sky, and the river. The figures are more abstract than those at the other sites, with engravings of faces and symbols that are difficult to interpret but are thought to represent deities or spiritual guides. The panoramic view of the Magdalena River adds to the mystical atmosphere of the site, making it a popular destination for those seeking both historical and natural beauty.

El Purutal
El Purutal is particularly notable for its colourful statues, as it is one of the few sites in the San Agustín region where traces of original pigments have survived. The statues at El Purutal feature vivid reds, yellows, and blacks, providing a rare glimpse into how these statues may have originally appeared when they were first carved and painted. The site includes several large stone figures that appear to guard tombs, often depicting human-animal hybrids with fierce expressions, possibly representing protective deities. The discovery of coloured statues adds a new dimension to understanding the artistic and cultural practices of the ancient San Agustín civilisation. El Purutal offers a visually striking contrast to the more weathered and grey statues found at other sites.

Accommodation
We stayed at Casa Francois, a charming guesthouse surrounded by expansive gardens. The house sits on a hill overlooking the valley, with its lush vegetation, flowers, and fruit trees, making for an incredibly peaceful retreat after exploring the archaeological sites.

Walks Near San Agustín
Beyond the archaeological treasures, San Agustín is renowned for its dramatic natural landscapes. Notable hikes include paths along the Magdalena River, Colombia’s most important waterway, which flows near the archaeological park. Walking along its banks near San Agustín offers stunning views of the river cutting through rugged canyons, providing another reason to explore this remarkable area.

The Salto de Bordones is one of Colombia’s tallest waterfalls, located near the San Agustín archaeological park in the Department of Huila. With a dramatic drop of approximately 400 metres (1,312 feet), this breathtaking waterfall cascades from a towering cliff into a deep canyon below. The waterfall is surrounded by lush, green landscapes, making it a stunning sight for nature lovers and photographers. Visitors can hike to several viewpoints, offering panoramic vistas of the falls and the valley, where mist from the cascade adds a magical element to the scene. The remote and rugged beauty of Salto de Bordones complements the archaeological richness of San Agustín, offering a peaceful, natural escape.

The Salto de Mortiño is another spectacular waterfall near San Agustín, though less known than Salto de Bordones. With a vertical drop of about 170 metres (558 feet), Salto de Mortiño plunges into a rocky canyon surrounded by high cliffs and dense vegetation. The waterfall creates an impressive spray, especially during the rainy season, when it becomes even more powerful. This natural attraction is accessible via a short hike, and its scenic viewpoints provide a stunning backdrop for visitors. Salto de Mortiño is often praised for its tranquil setting, with fewer tourists, making it a hidden gem for those seeking to explore the natural beauty of the region around San Agustín.

Tierradentro: Remote Burial Chambers in the Mountains

While San Agustín is more famous, Tierradentro, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995, offers a completely different kind of archaeological wonder. Tierradentro, meaning “land within,” is nestled in a rugged, remote area of the Andes, where ancient cultures built intricate underground burial chambers between 600 and 900 AD. The journey to reach Tierradentro from San Agustín or anywhere in Colombia is arduous, requiring perseverance.

Culture and Origins
The people who built the Tierradentro tombs remain an enigma. Their society, like that of San Agustín, left behind no written records. What remains are their burial chambers, suggesting a deep respect for the dead and an advanced understanding of architecture and stone carving. While they did not build large cities, they clearly had complex religious beliefs that centred on the afterlife, ancestor worship, and the transition between worlds.

Tierradentro Archaeological Park
While San Agustín is more widely known, Tierradentro is equally significant. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, Tierradentro is home to an impressive collection of underground tombs, some dating back to between 600 and 900 AD. The hypogeal tombs are notable for their depth and intricate wall paintings, making them unique within the region.

The principal site consists of five key clusters of tombs: Alto de Segovia, Alto de Duende, Alto de San Andrés, El Tablón, and Alto del Aguacate, all connected by a 14 km trekking route.

The Trek Around Tierradentro
Tierradentro is accessible through a 14-kilometre trek that connects five key tomb sites.  Small farms dot the landscape, growing coffee and tropical fruits, giving visitors a glimpse into the rural livelihoods in the area.  The tombs are:

Alto de Segovia: The most significant site, about 1.5km from the Tierradentro Museum and at 1,900 metres, features 25 tombs, several of which are adorned with geometric wall paintings and anthropomorphic faces. These tombs require descending steep steps to explore their interior chambers. Some are illuminated with motion-sensitive lights, while others require a headlamp to see the details clearly.

Alto de Duende: Located a further kilometre beyond Segovia, this site offers five more tombs, though these lack the decorative paintings of Segovia.

El Tablón: About 2.6 kilometres away, this site contains nine statues. Unlike San Agustín’s statues, these figures are more human-like, without exaggerated animalistic features, and include representations of both men and women. One of the statues depicts an individual complete with a headdress, likely represents a person of great importance.

Alto de San Andrés: A steep 770-metre climb takes you to this site with seven more open tombs, one of which features paintings similar to those in Segovia but the rest without paintings but with well-preserved carvings.

Alto del Aguacate: The final and most isolated site, located a strenuous uphill 3.1 kilometres hike from San Andrés to around 2,200 metres. This ridge-top site offers stunning views of the valleys of the San Andrés and Ullucos rivers and contains 42 open tombs. Due to their isolation, many of these tombs were looted and lack the modern protections of other sites, giving them a rugged, untouched feel. The climb back down to the entrance is challenging but scenic.

San Andrés de Pisimbalá
Visitors to Tierradentro often stay in the quiet village of San Andrés de Pisimbalá, about 2 km from the archaeological site. This tiny community offers a glimpse into rural life in Colombia, surrounded by verdant farms growing coffee, bananas, and sugarcane. The village is charmingly rustic, with its small church and peaceful atmosphere.  We stayed at La Portada, a small guest house with private rooms and the main restaurant in the village.  They serve simple and hearty meals, a different meal each day and Leonardo the proprietor also acts as a guide on the trek around the tomb sites.

The region’s remoteness makes travelling here an adventure. Reaching Tierradentro from San Agustín involves multiple changes of buses and collectivos, passing through towns like Pitalito, Garzón, and La Plata. The trip, while long and occasionally uncomfortable, rewards those with patience by unveiling some of Colombia’s most beautiful and least-explored landscapes.

Getting to San Agustín and Tierradentro
Travel to both sites is a logistical challenge but adds to the sense of adventure. The 136 km journey from Popayán to San Agustín takes travellers through the Parque Nacional Natural Puracé, where volcanic landscapes, cloud forests, and occasional condors are the highlights. The road is rugged, winding, and sometimes under construction, but the scenery is breathtaking.

From San Agustín, Tierradentro is a 173 km trip involving multiple bus changes, a journey that tests your endurance but rewards with unparalleled cultural and natural experiences.

It was a further 110km journey back from Tierradentro to Popayán with a bus change at the market town of Izna.  Travel to and from San Andrés de Pisimbalá was by small collectivos to the nearest towns of La Plata and Izna.

Transport connections continue to evolve and improve and in 2022 La Plata has a new bus station which is driving better connections to the area.

Our Journey to Tierradentro from San Agustín in 2018 Reaching Tierradentro requires determination. From San Agustín, the journey involves four different transfers by bus or collectivo: – San Agustín to Pitalito – Pitalito to Garzón – Garzón to La Plata – La Plata to San Andrés de Pisimbalá

Pitalito: Coffee Capital of Southern Huila
Pitalito, located in the southern part of the Huila Department, is widely regarded as the “Coffee Capital of Southern Colombia”. Nestled in the lush Andean foothills at an altitude of around 1,310 metres (4,298 feet), the town is surrounded by fertile lands that produce some of Colombia’s finest coffee. Pitalito is a key hub in the country’s coffee-growing region, and its local economy thrives on the cultivation, processing, and export of high-quality Arabica beans. Coffee farms and plantations blanket the rolling hills, creating a picturesque landscape where visitors can tour fincas (coffee farms) and learn about the intricate processes involved in coffee production. The town of Pitalito serves as the primary transport hub for visitors coming from elsewhere in Colombia, it has frequent connections to Popayán, Neiva, and Bogotá, making it the most common entry point to the region and for travellers heading to San Agustín. The town itself is lively, with bustling markets, traditional Andean food, and warm hospitality, making it an excellent stop for those exploring the cultural and natural wonders of Huila.

Garzón: Huila’s Historic Heart
Garzón, often referred to as the “Heart of Huila,” is a charming town situated at the crossroads between the north and south of the department. Founded in 1783, Garzón boasts a rich colonial history, evident in its traditional architecture, including its well-preserved Plaza de Bolívar and the imposing Catedral de San Miguel Arcángel, a neo-Gothic structure that dominates the town centre. The surrounding area is a mix of valleys and mountains, with agriculture forming the backbone of the local economy. Garzón is known for its production of coffee, sugarcane, and a variety of fruits, which thrive in the region’s diverse microclimates. The town also serves as a hub for travelers en route to Tierradentro and San Agustín, two of Colombia’s most significant archaeological sites. Despite its small size, Garzón has a laid-back atmosphere, offering visitors a chance to experience rural Colombian life and enjoy the slow pace of this historic town.

Coffee of Huila Province The coffee of Huila Province is renowned as some of the finest in Colombia, and the towns of Pitalito and Garzón play key roles in the region’s coffee production. Huila’s unique geography, with its fertile volcanic soil, high altitudes, and diverse microclimates, creates ideal conditions for cultivating specialty Arabica coffee beans. The coffee grown here is prized for its rich, complex flavours, often described as having notes of caramel, citrus, and chocolate, with a bright acidity and smooth body. Internationally recognised, Huila’s coffee has won numerous awards, and its beans are sought after by specialty coffee roasters around the world, further solidifying the region’s reputation as a premier coffee-growing area.

Parque Nacional Natural Puracé:  A Volcanic Wonderland in the Andes
The journey from Popayán to San Agustín passes through the could forests and unique high-altitude páramo ecosystems of  Parque Nacional Natural Puracé.  It is a stunning protected area known for its rugged volcanic landscapes, cloud forests, and incredible biodiversity. The park is dominated by Puracé Volcano, which towers at 4,646 metres (15,242 feet) above sea level. This active stratovolcano is part of the larger Andean volcanic chain, and its name, derived from the Quechua word for “Fire Mountain,” reflects its turbulent volcanic past.

Like many places of natural beauty in Colombia, Puracé National Park is rich with local myths and legends. The indigenous Coconuco people, who have lived in the region for centuries, hold the Puracé Volcano as sacred. According to one local legend, the god of fire, who resides within the volcano, periodically releases his anger in the form of eruptions to protect the land and maintain balance with the natural world. Other stories speak of supernatural guardians of the rivers and lagoons within the park, believed to control the flow of the waters, bestowing life or taking it away depending on their moods.

Puracé National Park is not only significant for its geological features but also for being the source of some of Colombia’s most important rivers. It is here that four of Colombia’s major rivers are born, including the Magdalena River, the longest and most vital waterway in the country, reaching the Caribbean at Baranquilla. The Cauca River, which flows through some of Colombia’s richest agricultural regions and the cities of Cali and Medellin, also originates within the park. In addition to these, the Caquetá River, which eventually joins the Amazon, and the Patía River, one of the few Colombian rivers that flow toward the Pacific, also have their headwaters here.

Final Thoughts
San Agustín and Tierradentro offer a deep dive into Colombia’s archaeological heartland, offering insight into ancient cultures that remain largely unknown. From the mysterious statues of San Agustín to the underground tombs of Tierradentro, these regions invite travellers to step back in time and explore the extraordinary landscapes where these ancient peoples once thrived.  Though difficult to access, the reward lies not only in the sites themselves but in the breathtaking journey through some of the most remote and beautiful parts of the country and testament to the rich, yet enigmatic, cultural heritage of Colombia.