Our final destination in Uruguay was the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Colonia del Sacramento, one of only two UNESCO sites in Uruguay, the other being the Fray Bentos Industrial Landscape. While Fray Bentos reflects Uruguay’s more modern industrial past, Colonia del Sacramento is a window into its colonial history, being one of the oldest settlements in the country. Founded in 1680 by the Portuguese, Colonia was a key strategic port on the Río de la Plata and has long been a coveted prize due to its proximity to Buenos Aires across the river. Today the city is a major tourist destination in Uruguay and, an easy day trip from Buenos Aires across the river, famous for its colonial heritage, quirky vintage cars and mate culture.
Colonia exchanged hands several times between the Portuguese and the Spanish as both colonial powers sought dominance in the region. Each wave of occupation left a distinct mark on the town’s architecture and culture, evident today in the blend of Portuguese and Spanish influences. The Treaty of San Ildefonso (1777) finally ceded control of the town to the Spanish, and it remained under their rule until Uruguay’s independence in 1830. The old town stands as a testament to this tumultuous past, with cobblestone streets and a mix of colonial buildings—Portuguese single-storey stone houses alongside Spanish-style stucco buildings with elegant iron balconies.
Colonia’s climate, characterised by warm summers and mild winters, enhances its appeal as a year-round destination. The town’s proximity to the river moderates the weather, keeping it cooler in summer than the inland parts of Uruguay.
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Historic Centre and Geography
The Barrio Histórico (Historic Quarter) is Colonia’s crown jewel and has been lovingly preserved. Here, simple two-storied buildings line avenues shaded by towering trees. While not every building has been fully renovated, this adds a layer of authenticity, ensuring Colonia doesn’t feel like a museum, but a lived-in, historical town. Key sites include the Portón de Campo (the old city gate), Plaza Mayor, and the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento, a church that dates back to the early 19th century.
Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento, Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
The Lighthouse (Faro), built in 1857, offers panoramic views of the town and the Río de la Plata. Climbing it is worth the effort, as from the top you can trace the outlines of both Uruguay and Argentina, the Buenos Aires skyline occasionally visible on the horizon when the sky is clear. The river, meanwhile, serves as a natural boundary, and its placid waters contribute to Colonia’s tranquil atmosphere, a significant contrast to the bustling metropolis across the river.
The Lighthouse, Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Today, Colonia del Sacramento is one of Uruguay’s major tourist destinations, especially popular as a day trip for visitors from Montevideo and Buenos Aires. The ferry terminal at the edge of town serves as the principal gateway for travellers crossing the Río de la Plata. This steady stream of visitors has brought economic revitalisation to Colonia, which now relies heavily on tourism for its survival. Restaurants, boutiques, and craft shops abound, many of them housed in beautifully restored colonial buildings. Some of the most sought-after souvenirs are linked to Uruguay’s national obsession—mate.
The Culture of Mate
Mate is a social ritual in Uruguay, as deeply ingrained in daily life as tea in the UK or coffee in Italy. In Colonia, it is impossible to miss the number of visitors and locals alike walking the streets, thermos flasks tucked under their arms, mate cup in hand. Shops dedicated to the sale of mate paraphernalia—including intricate silver bombillas (the straws used to drink mate) and designer mate gourds—are scattered throughout the town. Drinking mate is a social affair, often shared among friends, each person taking turns to sip through the straw.
Mate, Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Uruguayans consume more mate per capita than any other nation, a fact easily observed in Colonia, where cafes and street corners serve as impromptu meeting spots for mate drinkers. For visitors new to the drink, it’s worth trying, though its bitter taste can take some getting used to!
Vintage Cars and Quirky Vibes
One of Colonia’s more whimsical features is the abundance of vintage cars that appear to be scattered at random throughout the streets. Many of these cars, dating back to the 1950s and earlier, have been preserved in varying states of disrepair. Some are little more than rusting shells, while others have been transformed into artistic installations, blending the town’s colonial heritage with a quirky, artistic edge. Outside the famous Drugstore Restaurant, for example, a 1950s Citroën has a tree growing through it, while an old Ford has been turned into an alfresco dining table, with seats for two nestled inside.
These cars serve as more than just photo opportunities—they are a reflection of Colonia’s laid-back, creative atmosphere, where time seems to move a little slower and tradition mingles effortlessly with the modern world.
Vintage Cars, Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
Final Thoughts
We left Colonia after just over a week in Uruguay, boarding the Colonia Express ferry to Buenos Aires. As we set sail, the distant Manhattan-like skyline of Buenos Aires came into view, a stark contrast to the quiet charm of Colonia. Uruguay as a whole had been a delightful discovery, a country small in size but brimming with progressive ideals, efficient infrastructure, and, most of all, a strong sense of identity.
Colonia del Sacramento, with its mix of history, art, mate, and vintage cars, is an emblem of this identity—an enduring symbol of Uruguay’s ability to preserve the best of its past while embracing a bright, forward-thinking future.
Dates: 25/02/2018 to 27/02/2018