From Mendoza, we took the overnight bus to travel the 626kms to Córdoba, famous for its Jesuit heritage, arriving in Córdoba’s smart bus terminal in the early morning to give us a full day’s sightseeing in the city before being collected early the following day for our stay at the Estancia. We stayed in a well-appointed city hotel Windsor Hotel and Tower a couple of blocks from the Plaza San Martín.
Córdoba, the second-largest city in Argentina, lies in the geographic centre of the country. Set within the Pampas plains and bordered by the Sierras de Córdoba mountains to the west, the city enjoys a varied landscape. At an altitude of approximately 350 metres (1,148 feet), Córdoba’s semi-arid climate brings hot summers and mild winters. While rainfall is generally low, most precipitation occurs in the summer, and the nearby mountains contribute to a diverse natural environment, supporting agriculture and outdoor activities.
History
Founded in 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, Córdoba was initially established as a way station on the colonial route between the Atlantic coast and the silver mines of Potosí (in present-day Bolivia). The city quickly became a vital ecclesiastical centre, largely due to the arrival of the Jesuits in the early 17th century. The Jesuits’ establishment of missions, schools, and estancias in the region not only converted indigenous peoples but also laid the groundwork for the city’s intellectual and economic development. Córdoba soon became one of the most significant religious and educational centres in South America, with the founding of the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba in 1613, one of the oldest universities in the continent.
In 1767, the expulsion of the Jesuits by King Charles III of Spain marked a dramatic shift in the city’s fortunes. All Jesuit properties, including their extensive landholdings and estancias, were confiscated by the Spanish Crown. Despite this upheaval, the city retained its status as a religious and educational hub, with its baroque and colonial architecture still bearing witness to this era.
Plaza San Martin, Iglesia Santa Teresa De Jesús Y Monasterio San José De Carmelitas Descalzas and Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús,, Córdoba, Argentina
Economy
Córdoba’s economy is diverse, combining traditional industries such as agriculture with more modern sectors like automotive manufacturing and technology. The fertile land around the city supports the production of grains, livestock, and wine, particularly in the Calamuchita Valley, a region known for its artisanal products and boutique vineyards. Over the past few decades, Córdoba has also become an important centre for higher education and research, which has contributed to the city’s economic dynamism. The presence of many universities, including the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba, continues to support a thriving academic culture.
Tourism is another vital component of Córdoba’s economy, driven by its historical significance, religious architecture, and nearby natural attractions in the Sierras de Córdoba. The city’s artisanal markets offer local products such as leather goods, silverware, and traditional textiles, reflecting its rich cultural heritage.
Culture and Jesuit Heritage
Córdoba’s cultural identity is strongly shaped by its Jesuit past, earning it the nickname “La Docta” (The Learned). The Jesuits not only built missions and churches but also created an educational network that would influence the entire region. Their legacy can be seen in the UNESCO-listed Jesuit Block (Manzana Jesuítica), which includes the Universidad Nacional de Córdoba, the Jesuit church, the domestic quarters, and several other ecclesiastical buildings. This complex of structures, dating back to the 17th century, showcases the enduring influence of Jesuit architecture, education, and religious life in Córdoba.
Principal Sites
Plaza San Martín: The heart of the city, this historic square is surrounded by key landmarks, including the city’s most famous cathedral and several other notable buildings. A large equestrian statue of General José de San Martín, the liberator of Argentina, dominates the centre of the plaza, making it a vibrant focal point for locals and tourists alike.
Cathedral, Córdoba, Argentina
Córdoba Cathedral: Perhaps one of the most beautiful ecclesiastical buildings in Argentina, the cream-coloured Catedral de Córdoba is a masterpiece of colonial baroque architecture. Its intricate façade, featuring carved stone reliefs and domed bell towers, is a testament to the wealth and influence of the Catholic Church in colonial Argentina. Inside, the cathedral’s ornate altarpieces, stained glass, and frescoes provide an awe-inspiring glimpse into the rich religious history of the city. The cathedral has undergone meticulous restoration in recent years, further enhancing its beauty.
Jesuit Block and Estancias of Córdoba (UNESCO World Heritage Site): The Manzana Jesuítica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes some of the most significant examples of Jesuit architecture in South America. The Jesuit Block consists of the university, church, and various cloisters and courtyards, all showcasing classical colonial design. Surrounding Córdoba, several Jesuit estancias, including Santa Catalina and Alta Gracia, also form part of this heritage listing. These rural estates were agricultural and economic centres, vital to the Jesuit missions, and are now open to the public, offering insight into the region’s history.
Jesuit College, Córdoba, Argentina
Church of the Sacred Heart (Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, also known as Iglesia de los Capuchinos): A striking neo-Gothic church built in the early 20th century, the Church of the Sacred Heart stands out for its towering spires and colourful stained-glass windows. This architectural gem is a favourite among visitors for its intricate stonework and stunning interior, offering a contrast to the city’s older baroque buildings.
Cabildo of Córdoba: Located on Plaza San Martín, the Cabildo is one of the best-preserved colonial buildings in the city. Once the seat of local government, this 18th-century structure now houses cultural exhibitions and events. The Cabildo’s whitewashed arches and balconies, combined with its historical importance, make it an essential stop for anyone interested in Córdoba’s colonial past.
Basilica Nuestra Señora de la Merced and Basilica de Santo Domingo, Córdoba, Argentina
Basilica de la Merced: Another architectural gem in Córdoba is the Basilica de la Merced, a baroque-style church located just a few blocks from Plaza San Martín. Built in the early 18th century, this basilica is one of the city’s most important religious sites, dedicated to the Virgin of Mercy, the patroness of the city. Its striking white façade, adorned with delicate carvings and a large central dome, is a prime example of colonial religious architecture. Inside, visitors are greeted by a richly decorated altar, stunning stained glass windows, and intricate woodwork including a beautifully painted ceiling.
Mercado Norte: Located in the heart of Córdoba, Mercado Norte is one of the city’s liveliest and most authentic spots, offering a glimpse into everyday life in the region. Established in the early 20th century, this bustling market is a hub for fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and a variety of local goods. It’s renowned for its artisanal products, including Córdoba’s famous salames, cured meats, and traditional Argentinian asado cuts. The market is also home to a number of small eateries where visitors can enjoy a taste of local cuisine, including empanadas, locro, and humitas.
Final Thoughts
Despite its historical roots in the Jesuit missions, Córdoba is now a bustling modern city with a vibrant student population, thanks to its many universities. The city has a lively cultural scene, with music, theatre, and festivals throughout the year. Córdoba’s reputation as a hub of learning and innovation continues to grow, with many young people from across Argentina coming to study here. It is also home to a burgeoning technology sector, adding a modern twist to its traditional industries.
Yet, the city’s soul remains connected to its Jesuit heritage, with the religious and educational foundations laid centuries ago continuing to shape its identity. Córdoba’s blend of colonial architecture, modern amenities, and rich cultural traditions make it one of Argentina’s most fascinating cities.
Dates: 18/04/2018 to 19/04/2018 and 23/04/2018 to 24/04/2018