Overview
The southern region of Colombia, marked by its dramatic geography, features the majestic Andes mountains, which shape both the landscape and climate. This mountainous terrain gives way to fertile valleys, nourished by the region’s volcanic soil, making it ideal for agriculture. Notable volcanoes such as Volcán Galeras and Volcán Puracé contribute to the biodiversity and scenic beauty of the area, while also posing environmental challenges. The Pan-American Highway, which runs through this region, connects Colombia with Ecuador, facilitating trade and travel but also creating a dynamic cultural exchange.
The south of Colombia, especially south of the city of Popayán is rarely travelled apart from those travellers who are embarking on a major multi-county overland journey. Often the main Pan American Highway is adversely affected by land slips and other blockages that can result in major detours. In addition the UK FCO advice is to stick to the main highway and only cross the border into Ecuador at the official crossing over the Rumichaca Bridge.
History of Region
The history of southern Colombia is rich and complex, beginning with the indigenous cultures that thrived long before the arrival of the Incas. These pre-Incan societies laid the groundwork for the vibrant cultures that would follow. The Incas expanded their influence into this area, establishing trade routes and integrating local tribes into their empire. The arrival of Spanish colonialists, notably Sebastián de Belalcázar, marked a significant shift, as they claimed the land for Spain and introduced European customs, religion, and governance, often leading to the suppression of indigenous traditions.
Economy
Southern Colombia boasts a diverse economy primarily driven by agriculture. The fertile valleys yield a variety of crops, including coffee, sugarcane, and fruits, contributing significantly to local and national economies. Coffee plantations, in particular, thrive in this region, benefiting from the unique climate and topography. The economic activities are complemented by artisanal crafts and trade, providing a source of income for many communities.
Colombia / Ecuador Border Region
Tulcán
Tulcán, the border town in Ecuador, offers a unique experience with its striking Cenetario cemetery, renowned for its incredible topiary art. The meticulously sculpted hedges, shaped into a variety of forms, including animals and Inca faces, provide a whimsical and captivating sight. This cemetery is not only a resting place but also a testament to the artistic creativity of the region. Visitors are drawn to Tulcán for this reason, as well as its vibrant markets that cater to cross-border trade, reflecting the town’s strategic location.
In Tulcan we stayed Hotel Lumar, near the centre and well placed to get transport to the border for our early start.
Ipiales
Ipiales is a key entry point into Colombia, known for its dramatic landscapes and cultural significance. A visit here is incomplete without exploring the Santuario de Las Lajas, a stunning basilica built into the canyon of the Guáitara River. The town itself serves as a bustling hub, with shops and cafes catering to travellers crossing the border.
The Santuario de Las Lajas
The Santuario de Las Lajas stands out not just for its beauty but also for its spiritual significance This architectural marvel, constructed between 1916 and 1949, is celebrated for its neo-Gothic style with its altar seamlessly integrated into the rock face.
Its foundation stems from a local legend dating back to 1754, when an indigenous woman and her deaf-mute daughter reportedly witnessed a vision of the Virgin Mary, leading to numerous miraculous healings in the area, prompting the construction of this remarkable church. Its neo-Gothic architecture, set against a backdrop of lush mountains, creates a serene atmosphere, making it a popular pilgrimage site.
Pilgrims flock to the sanctuary to experience its spiritual aura, hoping for cures for diseases etc particularly prominent is the large collection of crutches left by pilgrims. The church and the breathtaking scenery around the church, which is accessible via a bridge that spans the river below also attract many modern day visitors as a pleasant stopover to and from the international frontier.
Crossing the Border from Ecuador
Crossing the border from Ecuador into Colombia can be an experience fraught with uncertainty, particularly amidst the ongoing Venezuelan refugee crisis. In addition, the announcement on Thursday 16thAugust 2018 that Ecuador was to only allow Venezuelans with full passports as opposed to ID Cards to cross the border into Ecuador created a large build-up of Venezuelan refugees on the border. We were therefore naturally apprehensive of crossing the land border. We had heard thar even in the best of times the border between Ecuador and Colombia is one of the most time consuming of all the land borders in South America, and having already crossed 15 land borders already on this trip this year, we’ve had experience of quite few.
Often early morning crossings, such as ours, can mitigate some of the delays, but the process often involves long queues and security checks.
| Our Border Crossing Experience In Tulcán, we caught a taxi around 5:30 am to take us to the Ecuador-Colombia border. We arrived at the Ecuadorian immigration office by 6:00 am to obtain our exit stamp. At this location, there is a single queue for both exit and entry, winding around the outside of the building. Once inside, the queue splits into two: one for Ecuadorians and Colombians, and another for all other nationalities. Security guards control access to the queue, turning away Venezuelans without passports. Outside the immigration building, large tents and the Red Cross were present, assisting those in need. By 6:30 am, we had successfully obtained our Ecuadorian exit stamps—a process that, based on reports, was quicker than usual. Afterwards, there is a short walk over the Rumichaca Bridge, which crosses the Carchi River into Colombia. On the Colombian side, there are three queues: one for entry, one for exit, and a separate queue for Colombian nationals. It only took five minutes to receive our Colombian entry stamp, so by 6:42 am, including the seven-minute walk across the bridge, we had completed the entire border crossing in 42 minutes—faster than many of our other border crossings, especially those into Chile. |
The journey across the bridge itself, though brief, serves as a poignant reminder of the complexities of migration in this region.
| Venezuelan Refugees The influx of Venezuelan refugees has significantly impacted both Colombia and Ecuador, as both countries grapple with the social and economic implications. In Colombia, cities like Cúcuta and Pasto have seen an increase in demand for resources and services, straining local infrastructures. The resilience of Venezuelans seeking better lives often intertwines with the hospitality of Colombian communities, although tensions occasionally arise. This complex dynamic illustrates the broader challenges of migration and humanitarian response in South America. The numbers of Venezuelan refugees in Colombia is mind blowing, with the latest figures being around 2.9 million, which is around 10% of the total population of Venezuela 29.0 million. This represents 5.7% of Colombia’s total population of 50.4 million. Nearly 0.5 million refugees are in Ecuador, representing 2.8% of Ecuador’s total population of 18 million. |
Dates: 21/08/2018 to 22/08/2018
Pasto – Highland city beneath towering volcanoes
Pasto, the capital of the Nariño department, is nestled in a high-altitude valley surrounded by breathtaking landscapes. Known for its vibrant cultural scene, Pasto showcases a blend of indigenous and colonial influences. The road from the border followed the Pan American highway for the 94kms to Pasto’s central bus station. Our stay at Loft Hotel offered a comfortable base from which to explore the city’s many charms. Nearby the bus station was a particularly colourful piece street art depicting indigenous people playing Andean musical instruments.
Geography and Climate
Situated at approximately 2,527 metres above sea level, Pasto enjoys a temperate climate that varies with the altitude. The city is characterized by cool evenings and mild days, providing an ideal setting for outdoor exploration. The surrounding mountains create a stunning backdrop, enhancing the city’s natural beauty.
History and Economy
Pasto has a rich historical tapestry, influenced by its indigenous roots and colonial past. Historically a centre of trade and cultural exchange, the economy has evolved to incorporate agriculture, particularly in coffee and grains. Today, Pasto maintains its role as a cultural hub, hosting festivals such as the Carnival of Black and White, which reflects the city’s diverse heritage.
Principal Sites
Plaza Nariño
The central square of Pasto is named after Antonio Nariño, an important figure in Colombia’s independence movement. The plaza is a bustling hub surrounded by significant buildings, such as the city’s administrative offices, and plays a vital role in Pasto’s cultural and social life.
Templo de San Juan Bautista
This beautiful church, originally constructed in the 18th century, is known for its baroque architecture. The church’s interior is adorned with colonial-era religious artwork, while its historical importance to the local community is immense, serving as a place of worship and cultural unity through periods of political upheaval.
Catedral de Pasto (Catedral de San Ezequiel Moreno)
Built between 1926 and 1932 after the destruction of earlier churches on the site, the Catedral de Pasto reflects a neo-Romanesque architectural style. The cathedral was designed to withstand the region’s frequent earthquakes, a necessity after previous buildings had been damaged. The façade’s grandiose style mirrors the importance of Catholicism in the region, while inside, the intricately designed stained glass and detailed woodwork evoke a sense of reverence and historical continuity.
Templo de la Merced
Dating back to the mid-18th century, this charming church is known for its serene atmosphere and baroque-style architecture. Templo de la Merced played an important role during the colonial period and remains a testament to Pasto’s religious and cultural history. Its altars are covered in gold leaf, showcasing the opulence of the era when it was built.
Final Thoughts
Southern Colombia offers a unique travel experience, combining stunning Andean landscapes with rich cultural heritage and vibrant local traditions. From the historic city of Popayán (see separate blog) and the spiritual sanctity of Las Lajas Sanctuary to the bustling border towns of Tulcán and Ipiales, this region presents both challenges and rewards for travellers. The journey across the Colombia-Ecuador border is a vivid reminder of the area’s complexities, from migration issues to enduring infrastructure concerns. Yet, the warmth of the local communities, the striking volcanic scenery, and the vibrant blend of indigenous, colonial, and modern cultures make this a deeply memorable part of Colombia. Travelling through this region, you can witness the resilience and beauty of southern Colombia, leaving with a profound appreciation for its people, landscapes, and enduring spirit.
Dates: 22/08/2018 to 23/08/2018