Our journey North continued into Ecuador and once across the border the landscape changed quite dramatically, gone were the dry deserts interspersed with oasis settlements of Northern Peru and a much greener landscape, with plenty of water. Shortly after the border were large industrial banana plantations, with the trees bearing the bananas having their crops protected in mesh nets from the wildlife. Also noticeable was the generally cleaner roadsides immediately after the border, while not spotless, the amount of rubbish was significantly less and also the roadside stalls and houses looked much cleaner too. Ecuador had many roadsides urging the population not to throw their rubbish out. A number of years ago, Ecuador dollarized its currency and with its export orientated agriculture and oil it appears to be more economically stable than our recent destinations.
We soon left the main Pan American Highway and climbed the Andes to Cuenca, Ecuador’s third city and probably its most complete colonial town. The mountain roads leading to Cuenca were full of verdant green vegetation and well maintained banana plantations and other agricultural crops and livestock. The mountain rivers were full and incredibly fast flowing. The abundance of water helping support the agribusinesses.
Cuenca had a prosperous feel to it with fully stocked shops and well maintained streets. In typical Latin American fashion similar shops all congregate in the same streets creating a natural completion between businesses. Many of the old colonial buildings have been preserved, with shops at street level and then some elegant balconies above complete with detailed wrought iron work.
The main square contains both the old original cathedral and the huge recently built new cathedral complete with blue domes and brown Italianate marble. The old cathedral has a mediaeval feel to it with painted walls complementing the pillars and painted frescos. The centrepiece is a full set of Christ and his disciples as if they are at the Last Supper in front of the altar. The statues are life sized and colourfully painted. In addition to the two principal churches, three sides of the main square are complete with colonnaded buildings and create a decent symmetry. Unfortunately the fourth side is more modern rather like many other similar squares.
Cuenca is the world centre for the production of Panama Hats. The craftwork and manufacture of Panama Hats is recognised as a significant cultural heritage in the world and is recognised as such by UNESCO. Interestingly Panama Hats had nothing historically to do with Panama apart from a comment by one of the US Presidents in the past. Ecuador stoically tolerates the confusion, but all in the know are fully aware that Panama Hats are unique to Ecuador. The manufacture of Panama Hats is a true craft industry, with families in the surrounding area weaving the hats and selling them on to a small number of family businesses that market them to the world. Some of the hats can take months to weave and the length of time, together with the fineness of the weave determines the price. Some hats can command a price of over USD 2,000, while less fine examples will be priced between USD 30 to 50. Traditionally one of the biggest markets for Panama Hats is the UK where historically there has been a tradition of wearing such hats. Today much of the younger generations have less interest in wearing such garments and there is a risk that the industry may struggle with shrinking markets, but the quality of a true Panama Hat originated from Cuenca should stil command a niche in the market.
Date: 25/05/2018 to 27/05/2018