Our Dragoman journey north continued into Ecuador, and as we crossed the border, the landscape changed dramatically. Gone were the dry deserts and occasional oasis settlements of Northern Peru, replaced by lush greenery and an abundance of water. Large industrial banana plantations dominated the scenery, with the banana trees’ crops wrapped in protective mesh nets to shield them from wildlife. What stood out immediately was the noticeable cleanliness compared to our recent travels—though not pristine, the roadsides were significantly less cluttered with rubbish, and the stalls and homes appeared tidier. Signs urging the population not to throw trash onto the roadsides were a common sight.

Ecuador’s economy seemed more stable than that of Northern Peru, thanks to its dollarised currency, oil exports, and export-oriented agricultural sector. This economic strength was visible as we ventured deeper into the country.

Leaving the Pan-American Highway, we ascended into the Andean highlands, heading towards Cuenca, Ecuador’s third-largest city and one of its most complete colonial gems and famous around the world for the production of Panama hats. The mountain roads were lined with lush, verdant vegetation, thriving banana plantations, and agricultural fields. Fast-flowing rivers added to the area’s sense of abundance, their waters supporting the agribusinesses that dominate the economy.

Catedral De Cuenca, Cuenca, Ecuador

Geography and Climate
Nestled in the southern Andean highlands, Cuenca sits at an elevation of approximately 2,500 metres (8,200 feet) above sea level. The surrounding landscape is characterised by steep valleys, green mountains, and powerful rivers, such as the Río Tomebamba, which flows through the city. Cuenca benefits from a temperate climate, with mild temperatures year-round due to its altitude. Daytime temperatures typically range between 18 and 22°C (64-72°F), while nights can be cooler, dipping to around 10°C (50°F). Rain is frequent, especially in the wet season from October to May, contributing to the lush greenery that defines the region.

The city’s fertile valleys and reliable water sources have historically supported agriculture and human habitation. However, as with many regions in the Andes, climate change is impacting rainfall patterns, leading to concerns over water management and potential droughts in the future. The fast-flowing rivers that are a hallmark of the region may also pose flooding risks to the city during periods of heavy rain.

History and Economics
Cuenca’s colonial history is a vital part of its character. Founded in 1557 by Spanish settlers on the site of the Inca city of Tomebamba, the city has retained much of its original architecture. However, the region’s history dates back much further. Before the Inca Empire, the Cañari people inhabited this area, leaving behind archaeological remains and cultural influences that continue to resonate today.

Economically, Cuenca has been shaped by agriculture, particularly in its earlier history, with crops like potatoes, maize, and quinoa forming the staples of both pre-Columbian and colonial diets. Today, the economy has diversified into artisanal crafts, including the world-renowned Panama hat industry, as well as tourism, services, and education. The city has emerged as a major cultural and intellectual hub, hosting universities, museums, and cultural institutions that contribute to its dynamic economy.

The dollarisation of Ecuador’s economy in the year 2000 helped stabilise its financial markets, particularly benefitting export industries like bananas, shrimp, and oil. Cuenca has benefitted from this, attracting investment and becoming a more prosperous and modern city than many of its counterparts in the region.

Iglesia San Francisco, Cuenca, Ecuador

The Panama Hat Industry
Cuenca holds a special place in the world for its association with the production of Panama hats, which, despite their name, are native to Ecuador. The origin of the misnomer dates back to the early 20th century when U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt was photographed wearing one during a visit to the Panama Canal construction site. From that moment on, the hat became synonymous with Panama, despite its true origins in Ecuador.

The Panama hat industry is a vital part of Cuenca’s economy, providing employment to many families in the surrounding areas. Small workshops and family businesses dominate the industry, with many of the weavers working from home. The entire process, from growing and harvesting the paja toquilla to the intricate weaving and finishing, is still done largely by hand.

Panama hats are woven from the fibres of the Carludovica palmata plant, known locally as paja toquilla. The production process is laborious and time-intensive, with the finest hats taking months to weave by hand. The most skilled weavers are found in Cuenca and nearby villages, where the art of hat-making has been passed down through generations. The quality of a hat is judged by the fineness of its weave, with the most intricate examples fetching prices of over USD 2,000. Less fine hats, though still high-quality, are typically sold between USD 30 to 50.

The craftsmanship involved in Panama hat production has earned recognition from UNESCO, which designated it an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2012. This accolade highlights the cultural importance of the industry and the skill of Ecuadorian artisans.

Despite this recognition, the industry faces challenges. Younger generations have shown less interest in wearing traditional hats, and global markets have shifted. Historically, the UK was one of the largest markets for Panama hats but changing fashion trends have reduced demand. There is concern that, with shrinking markets, the industry could struggle to survive in the long term. However, the enduring quality and timeless style of the genuine Panama hat ensures that it will likely continue to attract a niche, global market of discerning buyers.

Catedral Vieja de Cuenca, Cuenca, Ecuador

Culture and Food
Cuenca is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, which blends indigenous traditions with Spanish colonial influences. This fusion is most apparent in the city’s vibrant markets, artisanal crafts, and religious festivals. The production of Panama hats (sombreros de paja toquilla) is perhaps the most famous cultural tradition associated with Cuenca. Declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Panama hat weaving tradition dates back centuries and remains a cornerstone of the local economy.

In terms of food, Cuenca offers a range of traditional Ecuadorian dishes, many of which reflect the abundance of the Andean region. Corn, potatoes, and locally sourced meats feature heavily in local cuisine, while dishes like hornado(roast pork), locro de papas (potato soup), and fritada (fried pork) are popular. Street vendors and markets also offer a variety of snacks, including humitas (steamed corn cakes) and empanadas filled with cheese or meat. The region is also known for its excellent bread, with bakeries around the city producing fresh rolls and pastries.

Markets and Artisans
One of Cuenca’s most vibrant features is its markets, which sell everything from fresh produce to handicrafts. The Mercado 9 de Octubre and Mercado de San Francisco are two of the city’s largest, offering a wide array of fruits, vegetables, meats, and traditional Ecuadorian foods. Artisanal markets, meanwhile, display handcrafted goods, from textiles and jewellery to the famous Panama hats. Many of the hatmakers still weave their creations by hand in nearby villages, with some of the finest examples taking months to complete and commanding prices of over USD 2,000.

Mercado, Cuenca, Ecuador

Principal Sites and UNESCO Heritage
Cuenca’s historic centre, with its narrow, cobblestone streets, colonial houses, and stately plazas, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for its exceptional preservation of Spanish colonial architecture.

Cuenca’s streets are a feast for the eyes, lined with colonial buildings featuring wrought iron balconies, which add a distinct charm to the city’s architectural landscape. Many of these balconies are adorned with potted plants and flowers, adding to the vibrant atmosphere. Narrow, cobbled streets and plazas create a maze of picturesque sights as you explore the historic centre.

The heart of the city is anchored by Parque Calderón, the main square, which is flanked by two of Cuenca’s most important churches.  The Old Cathedral (Iglesia del Sagrario), built in 1557, is the city’s oldest religious building, and the New Cathedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción), completed in 1975.

New cathedral, Cuenca

New and Old Cathedrals
The Old Cathedral (Iglesia del Sagrario), built in 1557, is the city’s oldest religious building. It no longer serves as a functioning church but instead operates as a museum, housing religious art and artefacts from the colonial period. Its interior, with its medieval feel, features painted frescos and its centrepiece is a life-sized Last Supper scene. 

The Last Supper, Catedral Vieja de Cuenca, Cuenca, Ecuador

The New Cathedral (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción), completed in 1975. This enormous basilica is recognisable for its striking blue domes, which dominate Cuenca’s skyline. The cathedral’s exterior is made of white marble imported from Italy, and its interior is equally grand, featuring beautiful stained-glass windows and a massive altar.  Its vast interior can accommodate over 9,000 worshippers, making it one of the largest in South America.

Iglesia San Francisco
The Iglesia San Francisco is one of Cuenca’s most important churches, standing on its own square, Plaza San Francisco. Originally built in the 16th century, the church has undergone several renovations but retains its colonial character, particularly in its baroque altar and the intricately carved wooden details that line the interior. The square in front of the church is a bustling market area where artisans sell textiles, hats, and other handmade goods.

Plaza de Flores
The Plaza de Flores, located near Cuenca’s old cathedral, is another gem. It’s a small but beautiful plaza filled with flower vendors selling a wide variety of blooms, from roses to orchids. The square is a peaceful oasis in the heart of the city, and the colourful display of flowers adds a lovely contrast to the surrounding colonial architecture.

Santuario Mariano
Another important religious site is the Santuario Mariano (also known as the Santuario de Nuestra Señora del Rosario), a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Its ornate interior, with stained glass windows and elaborate altarpieces, makes it a site of pilgrimage for many locals. The church plays a central role in religious festivals

Environmental Challenges
While Cuenca’s location in the highlands ensures a temperate climate and reliable water supply from its rivers, the region is not immune to environmental challenges. Changes in rainfall patterns have begun to impact local agriculture, with concerns over water scarcity and the health of the rivers that flow through the city. Urbanisation and the expansion of agriculture also threaten the natural environment, with deforestation and land degradation becoming pressing issues. Efforts to manage these challenges are ongoing, with the city investing in sustainable water management and conservation projects.

Final Thoughts
Cuenca is a city that seamlessly blends its colonial past with the vibrancy of modern life. Its well-preserved architecture, bustling markets, and rich cultural heritage offer visitors a unique insight into Ecuadorian life, while the Panama hat industry connects the city to the global stage. As Cuenca continues to grow, it faces the challenge of balancing urban development with environmental sustainability, but its enduring charm and cultural significance make it a highlight of any journey through Ecuador.

Cuenca Street Scenes

Dates: 25/05/2018 to 27/05/2018 Dragoman Days 9 to 12