From Belo Horizonte, we took the five-hour bus journey north to one of the remotest old colonial mining towns in Minas Gerais: the UNESCO World Heritage town of Diamantina. As its name suggests, the town was the heart of Brazil’s diamond mining industry. With a population of around 48,000 people, Diamantina is known for its preserved colonial architecture and history, offering visitors a step back in time to Brazil’s mining past.

Geography & Climate
Diamantina is located in the rugged foothills of the Serra do Espinhaço mountain range, which stretches across Minas Gerais. The landscape is characterised by rocky terrain and dry scrubland, which stands in contrast to the lusher green of the surrounding state. The town experiences a tropical savannah climate, with warm to hot temperatures year-round. Summers bring frequent rainstorms, often turning the cobbled streets into streams during the wet season, while winters are milder and drier, making it an ideal time for exploration.

History & Economy
Founded in the early 18th century as a diamond mining centre, Diamantina’s history is intertwined with Brazil’s colonial period and the Portuguese crown. Like Ouro Preto, the town thrived during the height of mining but saw a decline after the exhaustion of its diamond resources. The mining operations relied heavily on the labour of enslaved Africans, and remnants of this history can be seen throughout the town, particularly in the Museu de Diamante, which holds evocative photographs and artefacts depicting the harsh conditions endured by the miners. Today, Diamantina’s economy revolves around tourism, with its well-preserved buildings and historical significance attracting visitors from across Brazil and beyond.

Principal Sites

Praça Conselheiro Mata and Catedral Metropolitana de Santo Antônio
Located in the town’s main square, the Catedral Metropolitana de Santo Antônio is a striking basilica built in the 1930s. Its light blue domes and large nave create a grand space that fills with worshippers during services, reflecting the strong religious life in the town. The cathedral stands adjacent to Praça Conselheiro Mata, the town’s vibrant central square, surrounded by colonial buildings and a focal point for local activity.

Casa Glória
One of Diamantina’s most notable landmarks, Casa Glória is a former orphanage and the residence of a wealthy widow. Today it serves as a study centre for geology and mining, maintaining its connection to the town’s mining heritage. The highlight of the building is its famous dark blue wooden bridge, known as Diamantina’s own “Bridge of Sighs,” which connects the upper floors of the two buildings across the street. Inside, original furniture and intricately crafted wooden floors give a glimpse into the town’s colonial past.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
Built in 1765, this baroque-style church is dedicated to Our Lady of Mount Carmel. The ornate gilded interior and intricately painted wooden ceiling are emblematic of Minas Gerais’ colonial religious architecture. The church’s prominent location overlooking the town adds to its grandeur.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos
This 18th-century church was built by and for the enslaved population of Diamantina, providing a place of worship distinct from those frequented by the town’s elite. The old cross in front of the church, partly embedded within a tree, is a poignant reminder of the church’s role in the lives of the enslaved community.

Casa de Juscelino Kubitschek
Diamantina is the birthplace of Juscelino Kubitschek, one of Brazil’s most influential presidents, known for founding Brasília. His childhood home is now a museum that provides insight into his early life, including his medical career and interest in literature. Original furniture, personal artefacts, and a well-stocked library showcase the formative years of this visionary leader.

Mercado dos Tropeiros
The old Tropeiros Market serves as a reminder of Diamantina’s historical role as a trading post for the muleteers (tropeiros) who transported goods across the rugged interior. The market building, with its simple yet functional design, remains a vibrant part of Diamantina’s culture, where local crafts and produce are still sold today.

Environment
Diamantina is part of the Serra do Espinhaço Biosphere Reserve, a region recognised for its unique biodiversity and geological formations. The rocky landscapes, waterfalls, and caves that surround the town offer numerous opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. The Cachoeira dos Cristais (Crystal Waterfall) and Biribiri State Park are popular nearby natural attractions. Environmental conservation efforts focus on preserving the delicate balance between the area’s natural resources and its historical sites, as increased tourism presents both opportunities and challenges for sustainable development.

Final Thoughts
Diamantina stands out among Brazil’s colonial towns for its rich mining history, unique geographical setting, and well-preserved cultural heritage. Its blend of natural beauty, historical architecture, and significant historical figures like Juscelino Kubitschek make it a must-visit for anyone interested in Brazil’s colonial past. The town’s compact nature and accessible layout, enhanced by UNESCO information in both Portuguese and English, make it a pleasant destination for both history buffs and nature enthusiasts alike. The journey to Diamantina may be remote, but it is well worth the effort to experience one of Minas Gerais’ hidden gems.

Dates: 01/12/2018 to 03/12/2018