Another long Dragoman truck 12-hour drive of 862km crossing inland from Western Patagonia to the Andes and to the tourist town of El Calafate and the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier. On our drive across Patagonia, we had a number of stops for lunch and rest breaks. The scenery throughout was spectacular and makes you appreciate the vastness of Patagonia and its amazing landscape. Throughout the journey we saw many wild animals including vicuna and rheas as well as many ranches / estancias, some the size of a small European country!
El Calafate, nestled on the southern shores of Lago Argentino, serves as the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of Patagonia’s most iconic landmarks. The town, once a modest settlement, has flourished in recent years into a bustling tourist destination with an alpine feel, reminiscent of European mountain towns. The streets are lined with outdoor gear shops, cosy cafes, hostels, and upscale lodges, all catering to the steady flow of visitors. Its location, perched between the arid Patagonian steppe and the dramatic Southern Andes, makes it a perfect base for outdoor activities and exploration.
El Calafate is also a key economic centre in Santa Cruz Province, with tourism being the backbone of the local economy. Interestingly, the town takes its name from the calafate berry, a Patagonian fruit said to guarantee your return once tasted. In El Calafate we stayed at Hostels del Glacier, a well equipped hostel with lots of Alpine wooden paneling.
Lago Argentino, El Calafate, Argentina
Geography and Climate
El Calafate is located within the Los Glaciares National Park (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares), itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town sits at an altitude of around 200 metres above sea level, with the imposing peaks of the Andes rising dramatically to the west. The region’s climate is semi-arid, receiving little precipitation, though the nearby Andes create a strikingly different microclimate where snowfall and glacial ice dominate. Temperatures in El Calafate vary between cold winters (with averages around 2°C) and mild summers, which make it a year-round destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers.
Glaciar Perito Moreno, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina
The Perito Moreno Glacier
Approximately 80 km west of El Calafate lies the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier, a colossal river of ice that is one of the few glaciers in the world considered to be in a state of equilibrium—not significantly retreating or advancing overall. Spanning 250 square kilometres, with a length of 30 km and a front face rising 70 to 90 metres above the surface of Lago Argentino, the glacier is a sight to behold. What makes Perito Moreno even more remarkable is its continual movement, advancing by about two metres per day. This slow, yet persistent, motion causes huge blocks of ice to calve off the glacier’s face and crash into the lake, a process known as “calving.”
The glacier’s colours are another breathtaking feature, ranging from brilliant whites to intense blues, depending on the ice’s density and how it refracts light. The deeper, pressurised ice towards the base of the glacier often takes on an otherworldly deep blue, almost turquoise hue, adding to its spectacular appearance.
“Calving”, Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
A Natural Phenomenon: The Glacier’s Ice Dam
One of the most extraordinary natural events associated with the Perito Moreno Glacier is the periodic rupture of an ice dam. The glacier occasionally advances far enough across the southern arm of Lago Argentino, creating a natural barrier that cuts off the Brazo Rico from the main body of the lake. Water levels behind the dam rise dramatically, exerting immense pressure on the ice until, eventually, the dam ruptures in a thunderous collapse. This phenomenon, known as the Ruptura, can happen every few years, attracting thousands of visitors hoping to witness the spectacle. In an incredible stroke of luck, the last rupture occurred just as we arrived, although we missed the actual moment by mere hours.
Ruptured Ice Dam, Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
Viewing the Glacier
The viewing experience at Perito Moreno is well organised, with extensive walkways and platforms offering various vantage points over the glacier. The main boardwalks allow visitors to admire the ice at different angles, from sweeping views across the glacier’s width to close-ups of the calving face. Boat trips offer a different perspective, bringing you up close to the massive walls of ice towering above the lake’s surface. On this visit, the glacier’s terminal face was particularly active, and we were treated to the sight and sound of enormous blocks of ice—some the size of small buildings—breaking off and crashing into the lake with an explosive roar. The newly formed icebergs drift slowly through the turquoise waters, eventually melting under the Patagonian sun.
Estancia Anita and the Gaucho Community
A short distance from El Calafate, Estancia Anita offers a glimpse into the rural, ranching traditions of Patagonia. This large sheep farm, or estancia, is one of the oldest in the region, dating back to the early 20th century. Estancia Anita played a significant role in Patagonia’s history, notably as a centre of the infamous 1920-21 Patagonian Rebellion (La Patagonia Rebelde), when local workers, including gauchos, went on strike for better working conditions. The rebellion was harshly suppressed, but it left a lasting legacy on the region’s labour history.
Today, Estancia Anita is still an active sheep farm, and visitors can witness traditional gaucho activities like sheep herding and shearing. The gauchos of this region, descendants of Spanish settlers and indigenous peoples, embody a deep sense of independence and resilience, characteristics that have become synonymous with Patagonian identity. These skilled horsemen play a crucial role in managing the vast, often harsh landscapes of southern Patagonia, where sheep farming has been a cornerstone of the local economy for over a century.
Guests to the estancia can also enjoy a traditional asado, where lamb, slow-cooked over an open flame, is the highlight. This experience offers a taste of the rural lifestyle and the enduring cultural traditions of the Patagonian gauchos, set against the rugged backdrop of the Andes.
Estancia Anita and the Gaucho Community, Argentina
Final Thoughts
El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier offer a window into the untamed beauty of Patagonia’s glacial landscapes. From the booming town built on tourism to the immense forces of nature at work within Los Glaciares National Park, this part of the world feels like a frontier where humans and the environment coexist in an ever-shifting balance.
Dates: 11/03/2018 to 13/03/2018 – Dragoman Days 8 to 9