We visited El Calafate back in 2018 and again in 2025. Between the two visits, it was apparent that the Perito Morano Glacier had noticeably retreated due to climate change but continued to be spectacular.
On our most recent visit we drove from Torres del Paine across the little used border into Argentina and up to El Calafate. Border facilities into Argentina had noticeably simplified since our 2018 visit and simply involved a scan of our passports and no stamps. In 2025 we stayed at the Hotel Kosten Aike, a hotel that would typically not be out of place in the European Alps. From El Calafate we drove around the lakes to El Chaltén.
On our first visit we had a long Dragoman truck 12-hour drive of 862km crossing inland from Western Patagonia to the Andes and to the tourist town of El Calafate and the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier. On our drive across Patagonia, we had a number of stops for lunch and rest breaks. The scenery throughout was spectacular and makes you appreciate the vastness of Patagonia and its amazing landscape. Throughout the journey we saw many wild animals including vicuna and rheas as well as many ranches / estancias, some the size of a small European country! In 2018 we stayed at the Del Glacier Libertador Hotel, a well-equipped hostel. From El Calafate we crossed into Chile to Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park.
El Calafate, Lago Argentino and Ibis
El Calafate, nestled on the southern shores of Lago Argentino, serves as the gateway to the Perito Moreno Glacier, one of Patagonia’s most iconic landmarks. The town, once a modest settlement, has flourished in recent years into a bustling tourist destination with an alpine feel, reminiscent of European mountain towns. The streets are lined with outdoor gear shops, cosy cafes, hostels, and upscale lodges, all catering to the steady flow of visitors. Its location, perched between the arid Patagonian steppe and the dramatic Southern Andes, makes it a perfect base for outdoor activities and exploration.
El Calafate is also a key economic centre in Santa Cruz Province, with tourism being the backbone of the local economy. Interestingly, the town takes its name from the calafate berry, a Patagonian fruit said to guarantee your return once tasted.
Paraoquia Santa Teresita del Niňo Jesus, El Calafate
While the town of El Calafate does not have any standout sites, the small modern church, Paraoquia Santa Teresita del Niňo Jesus, is worth a detour. Dedicated to Saint Thérèse of the Child Jesus, it reflects the town’s humble beginnings, having been built in the 1940s when El Calafate was still a small Patagonian settlement. The church’s rustic Alpine-style architecture, with its whitewashed walls, wooden beams, and simple bell tower, blends harmoniously with the surrounding landscape.
What makes this church particularly striking is the way it integrates the natural beauty of its gardens into the interior space. Behind the altar, large windows frame the lush greenery and vibrant flowers outside, allowing natural light to flood the nave and creating a sense of connection between the sanctuary and the outdoors. This feature enhances the church’s atmosphere of peace and reflection, making it feel almost like an extension of the surrounding nature.
To the side of the main nave, a small chapel continues this design approach, with additional windows that open onto the gardens, bringing in the changing colours of the Patagonian seasons. Whether bathed in the golden hues of autumn or the fresh greens of spring, these windows ensure that the beauty of the landscape becomes part of the worship space, reinforcing the tranquillity and simplicity that define this church.
Lago Argentino, El Calafate, Argentina
Geography and Climate
El Calafate is located within the Los Glaciares National Park (Parque Nacional Los Glaciares), itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town sits at an altitude of around 200 metres above sea level, with the imposing peaks of the Andes rising dramatically to the west. The region’s climate is semi-arid, receiving little precipitation, though the nearby Andes create a strikingly different microclimate where snowfall and glacial ice dominate. Temperatures in El Calafate vary between cold winters (with averages around 2°C) and mild summers, which make it a year-round destination for nature enthusiasts and hikers.
Glaciar Perito Moreno, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina 2018
The Perito Moreno Glacier
Approximately 80 km west of El Calafate lies the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier, located in Los Glaciares National Park in southwest Santa Cruz Province, Argentina, is renowned for its impressive size and dynamic behaviour. It is a colossal river of ice that is one of the few glaciers in the world back in 2018 was considered to be in a state of equilibrium—not significantly retreating or advancing overall.
Originating from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the glacier spans approximately 250 square kilometres, with a length of about 30 kilometres and an average width of 5 kilometres. Its ice walls tower up to 70 meters above the surface of Lake Argentino, into which it advances. The glacier’s terminus divides the lake into two sections: the main body and the smaller Brazo Rico.
The Southern Patagonian Ice Field, straddling the border between Chile and Argentina, is the largest temperate ice mass in the Southern Hemisphere, excluding Antarctica. It spans approximately 13,000 square kilometres and stretches over 350 kilometres from north to south, with an average width of 30 to 40 kilometres.
What makes Perito Moreno even more remarkable is its continual movement, advancing by about two metres per day. This slow, yet persistent, motion causes huge blocks of ice to calve off the glacier’s face and crash into the lake, a process known as “calving.”
Glaciar Perito Moreno, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina 2025
The glacier’s colours are another breathtaking feature, ranging from brilliant whites to intense blues, depending on the ice’s density and how it refracts light. The striking blue hues of the Perito Moreno Glacier are a result of the ice’s interaction with light. As dense glacier ice absorbs longer wavelengths of light (reds and oranges), it reflects shorter wavelengths, primarily blue, giving the glacier its vivid coloration. This phenomenon is due to the compression of ice over time, which reduces air bubbles and allows the ice to absorb and transmit light differently than regular ice.
The meltwater from the Perito Moreno Glacier primarily flows into Lake Argentino, the largest freshwater lake in Argentina. This lake, along with Lake Viedma, receives glacial runoff from several glaciers originating in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. These lakes eventually drain into the Atlantic Ocean via the Santa Cruz River.
Glacial meltwater is typically characterized by its purity and low mineral content, as it originates from compacted snow and ice. However, as the water flows over and interacts with bedrock and sediments, it can acquire minerals, giving it a slightly higher mineral content compared to its original state. The presence of fine suspended particles, known as “glacial flour,” can impart a milky or turquoise hue to the water, a common feature observed in glacial-fed lakes like Lake Argentino. El Calafate and other towns in Patagonia have a thriving microbrewery culture, with the locally brewed beers benefitting from the purity of the glacial melt waters.
“Calving”, Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
A Natural Phenomenon: The Glacier’s Ice Dam
Periodically, the glacier advances sufficiently to form a natural dam, obstructing the flow between these two sections and leading to significant water level differences. This process culminates in spectacular rupture events when the pressure of the water becomes too great.
The glacier occasionally advances far enough across the southern arm of Lago Argentino, creating a natural barrier that cuts off the Brazo Rico from the main body of the lake. Water levels behind the dam rise dramatically, exerting immense pressure on the ice until, eventually, the dam ruptures in a thunderous collapse. This phenomenon, known as the Ruptura, can happen every few years, attracting thousands of visitors hoping to witness the spectacle. It was in March 2018 that the last rupture occurred, which was just before we arrived on our first visit to the glacier. Indeed, there are concerns that with the retreat of the glacier in recent years that there may not be any more ruptures in the future.
Historically, the Perito Moreno Glacier has been considered relatively stable compared to other glaciers worldwide. However, recent observations indicate a noticeable retreat. Between 2018 and 2023, satellite imagery analysis revealed a significant recession, with some areas retreating over 500 meters, particularly between 2022 and 2023. This unprecedented change suggests that the glacier is now being affected by global climate patterns, leading to increased melting and instability.
Ruptured Ice Dam 2018 and bottom right 2025, Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
Viewing the Glacier
The viewing experience at Perito Moreno is well organised, with extensive walkways and platforms offering various vantage points over the glacier. The main boardwalks allow visitors to admire the ice at different angles, from sweeping views across the glacier’s width to close-ups of the calving face. Boat trips offer a different perspective, bringing you up close to the massive walls of ice towering above the lake’s surface. On this visit, the glacier’s terminal face was particularly active, and we were treated to the sight and sound of enormous blocks of ice—some the size of small buildings—breaking off and crashing into the lake with an explosive roar. The newly formed icebergs drift slowly through the turquoise waters, eventually melting under the Patagonian sun.
Estancia Anita and the Gaucho Community
A short distance from El Calafate, Estancia Anita offers a glimpse into the rural, ranching traditions of Patagonia. This large sheep farm, or estancia, is one of the oldest in the region, dating back to the early 20th century. Estancia Anita played a significant role in Patagonia’s history, notably as a centre of the infamous 1920-21 Patagonian Rebellion (La Patagonia Rebelde), when local workers, including gauchos, went on strike for better working conditions. The rebellion was harshly suppressed, but it left a lasting legacy on the region’s labour history.
Today, Estancia Anita is still an active sheep farm, and visitors can witness traditional gaucho activities like sheep herding and shearing. The gauchos of this region, descendants of Spanish settlers and indigenous peoples, embody a deep sense of independence and resilience, characteristics that have become synonymous with Patagonian identity. These skilled horsemen play a crucial role in managing the vast, often harsh landscapes of southern Patagonia, where sheep farming has been a cornerstone of the local economy for over a century.
Guests to the estancia can also enjoy a traditional asado, where lamb, slow-cooked over an open flame, is the highlight. This experience offers a taste of the rural lifestyle and the enduring cultural traditions of the Patagonian gauchos, set against the rugged backdrop of the Andes.
Estancia Anita and the Gaucho Community, Argentina
Food and Drink
El Calafate has the feel of an Alpine resort town, with no shortage of places to eat and drink, particularly for those seeking traditional Patagonian flavours. The town is well known for its asado (Argentine barbecue), with many restaurants specialising in slow-roasted cordero patagónico (Patagonian lamb), cooked over the open embers of a parrilla (grill).
During our stay, we dined at Mi Viejo, one of the town’s well-established parrillas, known for its succulent lamb and beef cuts, perfectly grilled and served with classic Argentine sides such as chimichurri and grilled vegetables. Another excellent spot for a traditional Patagonian asado is Restaurante Asador Merino Fuegos de Patagonia, where the lamb is roasted on an open cross (asador a la cruz), a technique that enhances its smoky depth of flavour.
In addition to lamb, El Calafate offers some of Argentina’s finest beef cuts, including bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), ojo de bife (ribeye), and entraña (skirt steak), all cooked to perfection. Steak lovers will find parrillas that pride themselves on serving meat from the country’s best cattle regions, often paired with bold Malbec wines from Mendoza.
For a more casual atmosphere, Cervecería El Calafate serves a variety of locally brewed Patagonian craft beers, benefiting from the region’s pure glacial meltwater. This lively pub also offers a hearty selection of burgers, pizzas, and traditional empanadas, making it a great place to unwind after a day exploring the glaciers.
El Calafate is also home to a number of cosy cafés serving calafate berry jam, a local delicacy made from the town’s namesake fruit. Many visitors sample calafate liqueur, a sweet and slightly tart digestif, following the local saying that tasting the berry ensures one’s return to Patagonia.
For those with a sweet tooth, Chocolates Patagonia is an excellent place to visit, offering handmade chocolates, artisanal dulce de leche, and rich hot chocolate—perfect for warming up after a day in the Patagonian outdoors. Their chocolate-covered calafate berries are a particularly popular souvenir, combining the region’s signature fruit with decadent Patagonian chocolate.
Perito Moreno Glacier, 2025 and 2018 clearly showing the reduction in its size
Final Thoughts
El Calafate and the Perito Moreno Glacier offer a window into the untamed beauty of Patagonia’s glacial landscapes. From the booming town built on tourism to the immense forces of nature at work within Los Glaciares National Park, this part of the world feels like a frontier where humans and the environment coexist in an ever-shifting balance.
Dates: 11/03/2018 to 13/03/2018 – Dragoman Days 8 to 9 and 09/02/2025 to 11/02/2025 & 14/02/2025