A further 412km, 5 hour Dragoman truck drive took us from our bush camp to the small resort town of El Chaltén, often referred to as the Trekking Capital of Argentina and close to some of the country’s most iconic mountain scenery. We stayed at the well-equipped hostel called Hostel Pioneros del Valle.
Geography and Climate
El Chaltén is situated in the Argentine portion of Patagonia, within Los Glaciares National Park, at the northern end of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. This small town lies at the foot of the Fitz Roy Massif and the Torre Range, two of Patagonia’s most iconic mountain groups. The Río de las Vueltas runs through the valley below, creating a dramatic landscape of rugged peaks and glacial rivers. The region’s geography is defined by its towering granite mountains, deep valleys, and glacial lakes, making it a prime destination for hikers and climbers.
The climate in El Chaltén is highly variable and can change dramatically within hours. Summers, from November to March, offer the best weather for trekking, with long daylight hours and relatively mild temperatures ranging from 5°C to 20°C (41°F to 68°F). However, strong winds are common, often reaching gale-force levels, and the weather can quickly shift from sunny and clear to stormy, as the mountains generate their own microclimates. Winters are cold and harsh, with temperatures often dropping below freezing and heavy snowfall blanketing the area.
Dragoman crew and the changing colours of Mount FitzRoy, Argentina
History and Development
El Chaltén was founded in 1985, primarily as a response to a border dispute between Argentina and Chile. The region around Mount FitzRoy (known as Cerro Chaltén by the indigenous Tehuelche people) has long been contested, and Argentina’s decision to develop a settlement here was part of its strategy to solidify its claim over the area. Mount FitzRoy is after Captain Robert FitzRoy, the commander of the HMS Beagle and Charles Darwin’s guide during his explorations of Patagonia and the town has rapidly expanded since its creation.
Today, El Chaltén is often referred to as the “Trekking Capital of Argentina” due to its proximity to some of the country’s best-known hiking trails. Despite its remote location, the town has seen significant development in recent years, with restaurants, hotels, and trekking services growing to cater to the influx of outdoor enthusiasts. This expansion is part of Argentina’s broader effort to attract tourism to Patagonia while simultaneously reinforcing its territorial claims in the border region with Chile.
With a permanent population of just over 1,000 residents, El Chaltén remains a small, close-knit community. However, this number swells during the tourist season as thousands of hikers, climbers, and outdoor enthusiasts from around the world visit the town to explore the surrounding national park. The town’s economy is heavily reliant on tourism, and its residents are largely engaged in the hospitality and trekking guide industries. Despite the influx of visitors, El Chaltén maintains its rustic charm, with dirt roads, cosy lodges, and a laid-back atmosphere that contrasts with its dramatic, untamed surroundings.
Trek to Lago de los Tres, Mount FitzRoy, El Chalten, Argentina
Trekking and Mountaineering
The town’s primary draw is its location at the base of Mount FitzRoy and the nearby Cerro Torre, two of the most challenging and famous peaks in Patagonia. Treks such as the Lago de los Tres hike, a 20-kilometre trail that leads to a glacial lake at the foot of FitzRoy, offer some of the most stunning vistas in the region, which we did on our first day in the town. The trail passes through forests, across glacial valleys, and culminates in a steep ascent, rewarding hikers with panoramic views of the mountain and its surrounding glaciers. Along the way, trekkers can observe diverse wildlife, from red-headed woodpeckers to small mammals scurrying through the forest.
However, the mountains are not to be underestimated. On our first day in El Chaltén, we were blessed with clear skies and only a few clouds on the horizon. The surrounding landscape was a vibrant blend of blues from the lakes and sky, and the greenery of the forest starting to turn to autumn hues as our visit coincided with the changing seasons into autumn. The vistas along the valleys were particularly spectacular. But the next day, everything changed. Hurricane-force winds swept in from the west, and rain soon followed, a reminder of how quickly these mountains can turn dangerous. The crevasses on nearby icebergs added yet another layer of peril to this harsh, unforgiving landscape.
La Leona and the Legend of Butch Cassidy
Just a short drive from El Chaltén, on the desolate stretch of road between El Calafate and El Chaltén, lies La Leona, a remote and historic outpost by the Río La Leona. This humble establishment has played a role in Patagonia’s fascinating history, most notably in the legend of the American outlaws Butch Cassidy, Sundance Kid, and Etta Place. In 1905, after robbing a bank in Río Gallegos, the trio sought refuge at the La Leona Inn (Parador La Leona), where they hid out for nearly a month while evading Argentine authorities. Today, visitors can stop at this iconic roadhouse, which still stands as a relic of Patagonia’s lawless past. While sipping coffee or enjoying a snack, travellers can soak in the wild, windswept landscape that once provided sanctuary to the infamous outlaws, further deepening Patagonia’s mystique as a land of adventure and intrigue
Butch Cassidy, La Leóna, Santa Cruz Province, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina
El Chaltén’s Unique Appeal
Despite the rapidly growing tourism industry, El Chaltén retains its charm as a remote outpost nestled within some of the world’s most spectacular natural scenery. The town’s laid-back, rustic character is reflected in its small vegan restaurant, Cúrcuma, where we enjoyed a memorable pumpkin risotto with coconut milk. The blending of adventurous tourism with the comforts of a small town makes El Chaltén a unique spot in Patagonia. Even with the increasing number of visitors, the town remains a peaceful retreat, offering hikers, climbers, and nature lovers an unparalleled gateway to Patagonia’s rugged wilderness.
Mount FitzRoy and Cúrcuma, El Chaltén, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina
Dates 24/03/2018 to 26/03/2018 Dragoman Days 19 to 23