We made our second trip to El Chaltén, the Trekking Capital of Argentina in 2025 having been previously there in 2018 as part of our wider Dragoman overland trip around Patagonia.

This time we drove the 214 kms by shared bus from El Calafate, which in many ways is the gateway to Argentinian Patagonia, along part of the famous Ruta 40 and then Ruta 41 into El Chaltén.  In El Chaltén we stayed in the Senderos Suites & Aparts, a comfortable lodge with a rustic charm and great views of the mountains.

On our Dragoman truck in 2018 we had a 412km drive from our bush camp to the small resort town of El Chaltén, and close to some of the country’s most iconic mountain scenery. We stayed at the well-equipped hostel called Hostel Pioneros del Valle.

El Chaltén 2025

Geography and Climate

El Chaltén is situated in the Argentine portion of Patagonia, within Los Glaciares National Park, at the northern end of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. This small town lies at the foot of the Fitz Roy Massif and the Torre Range, two of Patagonia’s most iconic mountain groups. The Río de las Vueltas runs through the valley below, creating a dramatic landscape of rugged peaks and glacial rivers. The region’s geography is defined by its towering granite mountains, deep valleys, and glacial lakes, making it a prime destination for hikers and climbers.

The climate in El Chaltén is highly variable and can change dramatically within hours. Summers, from November to March, offer the best weather for trekking, with long daylight hours and relatively mild temperatures ranging from 5°C to 20°C (41°F to 68°F). However, strong winds are common, often reaching gale-force levels, and the weather can quickly shift from sunny and clear to stormy, as the mountains generate their own microclimates. Winters are cold and harsh, with temperatures often dropping below freezing and heavy snowfall blanketing the area.

Dragoman crew and the changing colours of Mount FitzRoy, Argentina 2018

History and Development

El Chaltén was founded in 1985, primarily as a response to a border dispute between Argentina and Chile. The region around Mount FitzRoy (known as Cerro Chaltén by the indigenous Tehuelche people) has long been contested, and Argentina’s decision to develop a settlement here was part of its strategy to solidify its claim over the area. Mount FitzRoy is after Captain Robert FitzRoy, the commander of the HMS Beagle and Charles Darwin’s guide during his explorations of Patagonia and the town has rapidly expanded since its creation.

Today, El Chaltén is often referred to as the “Trekking Capital of Argentina” due to its proximity to some of the country’s best-known hiking trails. Despite its remote location, the town has seen significant development in recent years, with restaurants, hotels, and trekking services growing to cater to the influx of outdoor enthusiasts. This expansion is part of Argentina’s broader effort to attract tourism to Patagonia while simultaneously reinforcing its territorial claims in the border region with Chile.

With a permanent population of just over 1,000 residents, El Chaltén remains a small, close-knit community. However, this number swells during the tourist season as thousands of hikers, climbers, and outdoor enthusiasts from around the world visit the town to explore the surrounding national park. The town’s economy is heavily reliant on tourism, and its residents are largely engaged in the hospitality and trekking guide industries. Despite the influx of visitors, El Chaltén maintains its rustic charm, with dirt roads, cosy lodges, and a laid-back atmosphere that contrasts with its dramatic, untamed surroundings.

Trek to Lago de los Tres in 2018, Mount FitzRoy, El Chalten, Argentina

Trekking and Mountaineering

The town’s primary draw is its location at the base of Mount FitzRoy and the nearby Cerro Torre, two of the most challenging and famous peaks in Patagonia. Treks such as the Lago de los Tres hike, a 20-kilometre trail that leads to a glacial lake at the foot of FitzRoy, offer some of the most stunning vistas in the region, which we did on our first day in the town in 2018 and again in 2025. 

The Laguna de los Tres trek is one of Patagonia’s most iconic hikes, offering an unforgettable 10 km journey through dense forests, alpine meadows, and rugged mountain terrain before culminating in a breathtaking panorama of Monte Fitz Roy (3,405m) reflected in the turquoise waters of the lagoon. This challenging yet rewarding trek is a must-do for any adventurer visiting El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital.

Trek to Lago de los Tres in 2025, Mount FitzRoy, El Chalten, Argentina

Stage 1: The Ascent from El Chaltén

The trek begins from El Chaltén at the trailhead near the northern end of town. The initial 4 km is a steady ascent, winding through a Lenga beech forest with occasional clearings revealing glimpses of the Fitz Roy massif. The path is well-marked, and early morning hikers can often spot Andean condors (Vultur gryphus) circling above. After around 45 minutes, a side trail leads to the Mirador Río de las Vueltas, offering spectacular views over the winding river valley below.

Stage 2: Trekking Through Valleys and Meadows

After reaching the Poincenot Campground at km 8, the trail flattens as it follows the Río Blanco through wide alpine meadows. This is a great place to pause, refill bottles with fresh glacier-fed water, and enjoy a rest before the toughest part of the hike. The landscape transitions from lush greenery to rocky terrain, with Fitz Roy’s peaks looming ever larger in the distance.

Stage 3: The Final Scramble

The last 1 km is the most difficult, featuring a steep 400m ascent up loose gravel and large boulders. This section requires careful footing, particularly in strong Patagonian winds, which can make the climb feel even more daunting. Trekking poles are highly recommended. The reward at the top, however, is worth every effort: Laguna de los Tres, a brilliant glacial lake framed by Monte Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and Poincenot, presents one of the most stunning views in Patagonia.

What to Expect at the Top

At the summit, trekkers are greeted with crystal-clear glacial water, cold and refreshing enough to drink directly from the lagoon. The water is fed by nearby glaciers, and its icy temperature is a stark contrast to the often windblown, sunlit rocks where hikers rest and soak in the views. On clear days, Laguna Sucia—a secondary, deep blue lake—can also be seen just beyond the main lagoon.

Trek to Laguna los Tres 2025

However, the mountains are not to be underestimated. On our first visit to El Chaltén in 2018, we were blessed with clear skies and only a few clouds on the horizon on our first day. The surrounding landscape was a vibrant blend of blues from the lakes and sky, and the greenery of the forest starting to turn to autumn hues as our visit coincided with the changing seasons into autumn.  The vistas along the valleys were particularly spectacular.  But the next day, everything changed. Hurricane-force winds swept in from the west, and rain soon followed, a reminder of how quickly these mountains can turn dangerous. The crevasses on nearby icebergs added yet another layer of peril to this harsh, unforgiving landscape.

Geology of the Mountains

The Fitz Roy range is composed primarily of granite, a coarse-grained igneous rock that formed deep within the Earth’s crust around 12 million years ago. The imposing spires were later exposed through tectonic uplift and glacial erosion, creating the dramatic landscape seen today. The sheer cliffs and jagged peaks result from millennia of glacial carving, while the vibrant turquoise colour of Laguna de los Tres comes from glacial flour, fine rock particles suspended in the water that reflect light.

Glacial Retreat

The glaciers feeding Laguna de los Tres and nearby Laguna Sucia have noticeably receded in recent years. From our treks in 2018, and 2025, the change was stark, with shrinking ice fields and retreating tongues of glacial ice revealing more exposed rock and sediment. This retreat is a visible sign of climate change impacting the Los Glaciares National Park, mirroring the trends observed across Patagonia.

Laguna los Tres February 2025 and March 2018

Wildlife Along the Trek

The diverse habitats along the Laguna de los Tres trail make it a great place for spotting wildlife. In the forests, the striking Magellanic woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus) with its distinctive red head can often be heard before it is seen, hammering at tree trunks in search of insects.  We saw one of these spectacular birds on our first trek through the lenga forest.  

Higher up, Andean condors (Vultur gryphus) soar on thermal currents, their massive wingspans casting shadows over the rocky slopes and looking down upon them flying below at the end of the trek is a memorable site. Closer to the ground, Patagonian foxes (Lycalopex griseus), also known as zorros, can be spotted near the campsite areas, scavenging for scraps left by hikers and we saw one right at the top of the glacial moraine at the end of the hike. Guanacos (Lama guanicoe), Patagonian hares (Dolichotis patagonum), and even the elusive puma (Puma concolor) inhabit the region, though the latter are rarely seen.

Wildlife on route to Laguna Los Tres

Online Ticketing & Entry Requirements

As of 2025, entry to Los Glaciares National Park is free, but entry to the Laguna de los Tres trek to requires a permit, which can be obtained through an online registration system to manage visitor numbers and ensure safety. Trekkers should sign up via the official Parque Nacional Los Glaciares website at least a day in advance, confirming their planned departure time and emergency contact details and avoid the queues at the entrance to the trek route. The system helps track hikers in case of emergencies and prevents overcrowding on the trail.

The trek is not for the unprepared or unfit, as especially the last two kilometres up to the top are difficult and infinitely harder than the equivalent trek to the towers in Torres del Paine. 

Preparation & Tips

• Weather: The Patagonian climate is unpredictable; expect rapid changes from sunshine to rain and strong winds. Layering is essential.
• Footwear: Sturdy hiking boots with ankle support are crucial, particularly for the final rocky ascent.
• Water: No need to carry excessive water; streams and glacial melt provide safe cold drinking water along the way, which is also some of the best fresh water around.
• Sun Protection: High UV levels mean sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat are necessary, even in cool temperatures.
• Start Early: To avoid the strongest afternoon winds and maximise time at the top, begin the trek by 7:00 AM.

Food and drink

In El Chaltén, Argentina’s trekking capital, craft beer is a well-earned reward after long hikes through Los Glaciares National Park.  La Cervecería Chaltén is a standout brewery offering small-batch, handcrafted beers made with pure glacial water. Their selections often include pale ales, wheat beers, and dark stouts, ideal for warming up after braving Patagonia’s unpredictable weather. Many hikers gather in these intimate taprooms, sharing stories over a cold pint, making the microbreweries in El Chaltén a key part of the region’s après-hike culture.

La Cervecería Chaltén

In El Chaltén, there are a number of standout restaurants each offer a distinct take on Patagonian cuisine:

Cúrcuma caters to those looking for a healthier, plant-based alternative, offering a creative vegetarian and vegan menu. Dishes often feature fresh, locally sourced ingredients, with options like hearty lentil stews, quinoa bowls, homemade bread, and richly spiced curries. Their smoothies and fresh juices are a refreshing post-hike treat, while their warm, rustic interior provides a cosy escape from Patagonia’s unpredictable weather.

La Tapera is a favourite among hikers looking for comfort food in a homely, wood-and-stone setting. The menu includes Argentine classics like slow-cooked lamb stew (cordero al disco), tender beef milanesas, and handmade pastas, alongside fresh Patagonian trout, simply grilled and served with vegetables or a rich butter sauce. Their Argentine beef steaks, cooked to perfection, are a popular choice for those craving a traditional parrilla experience. Known for its generous portions and welcoming atmosphere, La Tapera is a great spot to relax with a glass of Malbec after a long day on the trails.

Asadores delivers an authentic Patagonian barbecue experience, specialising in grilled meats cooked over an open flame. The highlight is the cordero patagónico (Patagonian lamb), slow roasted over a wood fire, which comes with rustic sides like grilled vegetables and chimichurri sauce. Their tasting menu offers a selection of the best cuts, including ribeye, sirloin, and lamb, allowing diners to sample a variety of Argentina’s finest meats. For starters, they serve beef empanadas, morcilla (blood sausage), and chorizo, all packed with flavour. The filet steaks are generously sized, typically 350–400g, ensuring a hearty and satisfying meal. The restaurant’s asado-style cooking, paired with the smoky aroma of the fire, creates an immersive culinary experience for those wanting to savour Patagonia’s traditional flavours.

Asadores, La Curcuma and La Tapera, El Chalten

Each of these establishments adds to El Chaltén’s growing reputation as a food destination, offering options that cater to a range of tastes, from hearty carnivorous feasts to wholesome plant-based meals.

La Leona and the Legend of Butch Cassidy

Just a short drive from El Chaltén, on the desolate stretch of road between El Calafate and El Chaltén, lies La Leona, a remote and historic outpost by the Río La Leona. This humble establishment has played a role in Patagonia’s fascinating history, most notably in the legend of the American outlaws Butch Cassidy, Sundance Kid, and Etta Place. In 1905, after robbing a bank in Río Gallegos, the trio sought refuge at the La Leona Inn (Parador La Leona), where they hid out for nearly a month while evading Argentine authorities. Today, visitors can stop at this iconic roadhouse, which still stands as a relic of Patagonia’s lawless past. While sipping coffee or enjoying a snack, travellers can soak in the wild, windswept landscape that once provided sanctuary to the infamous outlaws, further deepening Patagonia’s mystique as a land of adventure and intrigue

Butch Cassidy, La Leóna, Santa Cruz Province, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina

El Chaltén’s Unique Appeal

Despite the rapidly growing tourism industry, El Chaltén retains its charm as a remote outpost nestled within some of the world’s most spectacular natural scenery. The town’s laid-back, rustic character is reflected in its small vegan restaurant, Cúrcuma, where we enjoyed a memorable pumpkin risotto with coconut milk. The blending of adventurous tourism with the comforts of a small town makes El Chaltén a unique spot in Patagonia. Even with the increasing number of visitors, the town remains a peaceful retreat, offering hikers, climbers, and nature lovers an unparalleled gateway to Patagonia’s rugged wilderness.

Mount FitzRoy & Night Sky, El Chaltén, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Patagonia, Argentina

Dates 24/03/2018 to 26/03/2018 Dragoman Days 19 to 23 and 11/02/2025 to 14/02/2025