Overview
Our journey through Guatemala offered a deep dive into one of Central America’s most historically and culturally rich countries. With its intricate blend of Mayan heritage, Spanish colonial architecture, and natural beauty dominated by towering volcanoes, Guatemala presents a multifaceted experience. Throughout our travels, we encountered bustling modern cities, tranquil villages, and awe-inspiring ancient ruins, all set against a backdrop of landscapes shaped by volcanic activity and steeped in history. Despite its turbulent past – from Spanish colonisation to civil war – Guatemala has emerged as a destination that honours its roots while embracing the future.

Spanish Colonisation and the Fall of the Maya
Before diving into our visit, it’s essential to understand Guatemala’s complex history. The region that is now Guatemala was once the heartland of the Mayan civilisation, one of the most advanced and powerful societies of the ancient world. The Mayans, known for their sophisticated understanding of astronomy, mathematics, and architecture, flourished between 2000 BCE and 900 CE, building majestic cities like Tikal, Copan (both of which we visited in our previous trip to Guatemala & Honduras in 2007) and El Mirador. However, by the time the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century, many of these great Mayan cities had been abandoned, likely due to environmental factors, warfare, and internal strife.

In 1523, the Spanish, led by Pedro de Alvarado, began their conquest of Guatemala. Alvarado, a lieutenant of Hernán Cortés, was tasked with subjugating the Maya and other indigenous groups. Despite facing fierce resistance from groups like the K’iche’ Maya in the Battle of Quetzaltenango, the Spanish eventually established control over the region. The Kingdom of Guatemala became part of the Spanish Empire, and Spanish colonisers imposed their culture, language, and religion upon the indigenous populations. Large-scale forced labour systems, such as encomiendas, devastated the local population, reducing their numbers through disease and exploitation.

The region remained under Spanish rule until 1821, when Guatemala, along with the rest of Central America, declared independence. Initially, Guatemala joined the short-lived Federal Republic of Central America alongside Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. However, internal conflicts, geographic differences, and political instability led to the dissolution of the union by 1838. Each country pursued its path, reflecting the local economic and cultural variations within the region.

Modern History
The 1954 coup in Guatemala, orchestrated by the CIA, aimed to overthrow President Jacobo Árbenz, who had initiated agrarian reforms threatening the interests of the United Fruit Company. This powerful American corporation held substantial land holdings in Guatemala and lobbied the U.S. government to intervene against Árbenz, portraying him as a communist threat. The coup marked the beginning of a long period of political instability and violence, solidifying Guatemala’s reputation as a “banana republic,” a term used to describe countries where foreign companies exert significant control over local politics and economies. In the decades that followed, Guatemala experienced a brutal civil war, lasting from 1960 to 1996, which resulted in tens of thousands of deaths and widespread human rights abuses, particularly against indigenous communities.

In recent years, a new government has made strides to address the underlying causes of insecurity, such as land inequality and poverty. Initiatives aimed at redistributing land and investing in rural development are helping to reduce social disparities. The security situation in Guatemala City, in particular, has shown improvement as a result of increased police presence and community policing strategies, which have focused on building trust between law enforcement and local residents. Efforts to combat gang violence and enhance the rule of law have also contributed to a more stable environment. While challenges remain, including corruption and ongoing inequality, these efforts are gradually transforming the landscape, fostering a more hopeful outlook for the future of the nation.

Arrival
Our final country on this Central American adventure was Guatemala. We took the San Cristobal bus from San Salvador, which efficiently crossed the El Salvador-Guatemala border and brought us into Zone 10 in Guatemala City. While frequent buses run to Antigua from the capital, they can be tricky to find in the city. To make our journey easier, we opted for Uber. The ride, covering around 40 kilometres from Guatemala City to Antigua, cost us GTQ 325(approximately USD 40) plus tip for the 90-minute, door-to-door service. Though efficient, the traffic in Guatemala City is notorious, and it took a while to escape the city’s congestion. Nonetheless, Uber was a convenient choice across much of Central America, and we found it particularly reliable during our stay in Guatemala.

Antigua – A Glimpse into Guatemala’s Colonial Past
From Guatemala City, we made our way to Antigua, one of Central America’s most beautiful cities. Nestled in the shadow of three towering volcanoes – Volcán de Agua, Volcán de Acatenango, and the ever-active Volcán de Fuego – Antigua is a former capital of Spanish Guatemala. Founded in 1543, Antigua was once the seat of the colonial government until it was abandoned in 1773 after a devastating earthquake. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its stunning colonial architecture, vibrant arts scene, and surrounding natural beauty.

We stayed at Hotel Convento Santa Catalina, housed in a former convent directly under the city’s most famous landmark, the Arco de Santa Catalina. The Santa Catalina Arch is a symbol of Antigua, originally constructed to allow nuns to cross between convent buildings without entering the streets. From the hotel’s charming courtyard, we enjoyed quiet moments gazing up at this centuries-old structure framed by the lush greenery and colonial buildings of Antigua.

The Catedral de San José, located on the Plaza Mayor, is a testament to Antigua’s resilience. Originally built in 1541, the cathedral has been partially destroyed by earthquakes over the centuries, but its grand ruins are still a focal point. The majestic façade and remaining chapels showcase fine examples of Baroque architecture, while inside, the quiet, cavernous spaces left by fallen roofs offer a unique atmosphere for reflection.

Another highlight was Iglesia de la Merced, a baroque masterpiece with a distinctive yellow and white exterior adorned with swirling stucco carvings. Inside, the church’s altar is home to a revered image of Our Lady of Mercy, surrounded by intricate woodwork. Nearby, Iglesia de San Francisco el Grande is a key pilgrimage site dedicated to Santo Hermano Pedro, Guatemala’s first saint. The complex includes his tomb and a small museum detailing his life and works.

Antigua is also a hub of artisan crafts, especially textiles. We explored the artisanal market near the bus station, discovering vibrant Mayan fabrics from nearby villages, each with distinctive patterns and colours. The fine craftsmanship of the San Antonio Aguas Calientes weavers, who produce intricate backstrap-loom textiles, was a standout.

In between exploring churches and markets, we enjoyed meals at local restaurants such as Casa Escobar, which served us some of the finest steaks, and Antigua Brewing Company, where we sipped craft beers while listening to live music. A visit to Cerro de la Cruz offered panoramic views of Antigua’s red-tiled rooftops framed by the towering volcanoes – a serene reminder of the power of nature in this region.

Lake Atitlán – Where Volcanoes Meet Tranquil Waters
Next, we travelled to Panajachel, a lakeside town on the edge of Lake Atitlán, often hailed as one of the most beautiful lakes in the world. The lake sits in a massive caldera formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago and is surrounded by three towering volcanoes – San Pedro, Tolimán, and Atitlán. These dramatic peaks rise above the calm waters, creating a picture-perfect landscape that feels almost otherworldly.

We embarked on a full-day boat tour to visit several of the indigenous towns around the lake. Our first stop was San Antonio de Popolo, where we were greeted with stunning views of the volcanoes across the lake. Here, we visited a local pottery workshop, where artisans demonstrated their craft, creating distinctive patterns that often feature the quetzal – Guatemala’s national bird – in vivid, intricate designs.

Our next destination was Santiago Atitlán, the largest town on the lake, located between Volcán San Pedro and Tolimán. The town’s central feature is the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol, a Catholic church that blends Mayan and Spanish religious traditions. Inside, the altars are often adorned with both Christian and Mayan symbols, a testament to the enduring legacy of religious syncretism in Guatemala.

Finally, we stopped at San Juan la Laguna, a town famous for its women’s textile cooperatives. Here, we witnessed the traditional backstrap weaving process, where threads are dyed with natural pigments and woven into intricate patterns. Each piece of fabric tells a story, with symbols and colours representing the natural world and local beliefs.

Chichicastenango – A Market like No Other
One of the most memorable parts of our trip was our visit to Chichicastenango, home to Guatemala’s largest and most famous market. Held every Thursday and Sunday, the Chichicastenango Market is a riot of colours, sounds, and smells. Vendors sell everything from bright Mayan textiles to fresh produce, ceremonial masks, and handmade crafts. It’s a place where you can see local K’iche’ Maya traditions alive and well, from the food stalls offering traditional dishes like tamales to the stalls selling intricate ceramic figurines used in religious ceremonies.

A short walk from the market brings you to the Iglesia de Santo Tomás, built in 1540 atop a pre-Columbian temple platform. The steps leading to the church are often used by Mayan shamans who burn offerings of copal incense and perform rituals, blending ancient Mayan spirituality with Catholicism. Inside the church, the air is thick with smoke, and candles line the floors as worshippers pray to both Christian saints and Mayan deities.

Guatemala City (called simply Guate by locals)– A Modern Metropolis with Historical Depth
Our first stop in Guatemala was its sprawling capital, Guatemala City, the largest urban centre in Central America. While often bypassed by tourists, the city has a vibrant character that blends modernity with deep historical roots. We arrived in Zona 10, a chic neighbourhood known for its high-end restaurants and luxury hotels, where we stayed at the comfortable Meraki Boutique Hotel. Right next door, the Fontabella Centre provided an array of excellent dining options, but the standout bar was at Cadejo Brewing Company, a local craft brewery with an inviting atmosphere.

While Zona 10 is the hub of contemporary Guatemala City, we ventured into Zona 1, the historical heart of the capital. Here, we visited the grand Plaza Mayor de la Constitución, surrounded by some of the city’s most important landmarks. The Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), built between 1782 and 1815, is a striking example of Spanish Baroque architecture. Its imposing façade, adorned with Corinthian columns, reflects Guatemala’s colonial past, while the interior, with its gilded altars and religious artwork, stands as a testament to the enduring Catholic influence in the country.

Opposite the cathedral is the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, an iconic green building that once served as the presidential palace. Built in the 1940s under the rule of dictator Jorge Ubico, its architecture blends neoclassical and Renaissance elements. It has ornate halls, intricate woodwork, murals, and stained glass, which reflect Guatemala’s complex history of political turmoil and artistic achievement.

A personal highlight of our stay in Guatemala City was visiting the British Cemetery, where my grandfather is buried. This small discrete cemetery within the much larger Cementerio General de la Ciudad de Guatemala is a poignant reminder of the British expatriate community that once lived here, and finding my grandfather’s grave among the 70 British tombs was a touching moment.

Final Thoughts
Our travels through Guatemala provided an extraordinary insight into a country where ancient traditions meet colonial history, and natural beauty blends with bustling modern life. Whether wandering the cobbled streets of Antigua, marvelling at the towering volcanoes around Lake Atitlán, or immersing ourselves in the vibrant colours of the Chichicastenango market, we were continually amazed by the richness of Guatemala’s cultural and natural heritage.

Dates: Wednesday 14th February to Thursday 22nd February 2024