Located approximately 395 km south of Salvador, Itacaré is a coastal gem of Bahia, celebrated as one of the principal surfing destinations in Brazil. It combines the allure of uncrowded beaches with a vibrant town scene, making it an ideal getaway for both surfers and travellers seeking a laid-back atmosphere. With a population of around 29,000, Itacaré attracts a largely Brazilian clientele, especially from cities like São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, although it is increasingly popular with international visitors too. Its reputation as a surfing hotspot is solidified by the quality of its beaches and waves, drawing surfers from across the country. 

We stayed at Posada La Cabaña, a small, charming guesthouse located just outside the centre of Itacaré. The posada offered a peaceful atmosphere with comfortable rooms set amidst a lush tropical garden. It was the perfect retreat after a day of exploring the nearby beaches, and the warm hospitality of the staff made the stay even more memorable.

Geography & Climate

Itacaré is set amidst a lush, tropical landscape, characterised by coconut palms, cliffs, and rolling hills. The region is part of the Atlantic Forest biome, one of the most biodiverse ecosystems in the world. The area enjoys a tropical climate, with warm temperatures year-round, ranging from 25°C to 30°C. The summer months (December to March) see an influx of visitors due to the long, sunny days, although Itacaré is a year-round destination. The area also experiences tropical rains, especially from April to June, which contribute to the verdant greenery surrounding the beaches.

History & Economy

Originally a sleepy fishing village, Itacaré began its transformation into a surfing destination in the 1970s when surfers discovered its excellent waves. In the past, the town was a centre for cocoa production, but the decline of the cocoa industry in the 20th century led to a shift towards tourism. Today, surfing and eco-tourism are the mainstays of the local economy, with visitors flocking to the beaches, as well as the surrounding waterfalls, trails, and nature reserves.

Principal Beaches

Itacaré boasts a stunning array of beaches, each with its own charm, making it a haven for beach lovers and surfers alike:

• Praia do Resende: The first of the four beaches south of the town, Resende is known for its beauty and tranquillity. Framed by palm trees and rock formations, the beach is perfect for those looking to escape the crowds.
• Praia da Tiririca: This beach is the heart of Itacaré’s surfing culture. With consistent Atlantic swells, Tiririca hosts numerous surf competitions and is lined with young surfers, both locals and visitors, eagerly waiting for the next perfect wave. It’s the place to watch some of the best surfing in Brazil.
• Praia da Costa: A smaller, more secluded beach, Costa is a peaceful retreat for those seeking solitude. It’s ideal for a quiet afternoon soaking up the sun or taking a dip in the warm waters.
• Praia da Ribeira: The last of the main beaches, Ribeira, is a picturesque bay, with a small river flowing into the sea. It’s perfect for those who enjoy more than just surfing, with opportunities for kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and exploring the surrounding forest trails.

Town Life

Itacaré’s town centre offers a lively mix of restaurants, bars, and boutique shops. The main street, Pituba, comes alive in the evenings, with locals and tourists mingling over traditional Bahian dishes such as acarajé and moqueca, and drinks like caipirinhas made with fresh tropical fruits. Itacaré has a laid-back, bohemian vibe, with live music often filling the air as people gather in the open-air bars and cafés.

Shops here cater to beachgoers and surfers, selling everything from surfboards to handmade jewellery and beachwear. The town’s nightlife scene is energetic but remains more relaxed compared to some of the larger beach resorts. On weekends, impromptu parties can spill out onto the streets as people dance to Brazilian rhythms.

Eco-Tourism & Hiking

Beyond the beaches, Itacaré is known for its natural beauty, with several hiking trails that take visitors through dense Atlantic rainforest and along secluded bays. Trails such as the Prainha trail lead hikers to remote, postcard-perfect beaches, where they can enjoy swimming in crystal-clear waters or simply lounging in the sun. Along the way, it’s common to encounter local wildlife, including colourful birds and small mammals.

One of the most popular eco-tourism activities in the area is visiting waterfalls like the Cachoeira de Tijuipe, a beautiful cascade surrounded by lush greenery. This natural pool is perfect for cooling off after a hike through the forest.

Environment

Itacaré is deeply committed to sustainability, particularly as it relies heavily on eco-tourism. Many of the hotels and restaurants in the town are focused on reducing their environmental impact, with some offering locally sourced organic food and limiting plastic waste. The town has taken steps to protect its beaches and natural areas, preserving the unspoiled beauty of its coastline. The beaches are known for their cleanliness, and local initiatives encourage visitors and residents to keep the environment pristine.

Final Thoughts

For us, Itacaré was a wonderful respite after the more intensive travelling through Brazil’s vast landscape, from the Amazon and northern beach resorts. The balance of surfing culture, quiet natural beauty, and the inviting town scene made it an ideal place to relax, yet still offered plenty of activities for the adventurous. Whether you’re a surfer looking to catch the perfect wave, or a traveller seeking secluded beaches and tropical scenery, Itacaré is a destination that captures the best of Brazil’s natural splendour.

Dates: 08/11/2018 to 12/11/2018 – Dragoman Days 03 to 07