Our first experience of the Amazon was in the Colombian port of Leticia, the capital of Colombia’s Amazonas department, a vibrant frontier town on a small strip of Colombia extending to the Amazon River. Leticia sits at the intersection of three countries: Colombia, Brazil, and Peru. This strategic position makes it a bustling economic hub for river traffic, especially between Iquitos in Peru and Manaus in Brazil. The town is relatively small and isolated and separated from the rest of Colombia, with no connecting roads, so most travellers arrive either by boat from Brazil or Peru or by plane, we flew in from Bogotá and out to Manaus. The town’s population is around 48,000, with neighbouring Tabatinga (Brazil) housing another 65,000. Despite its remoteness, Leticia remains a key gateway to the Amazon rainforest. Leticia is widely considered much safer than its Brazilian counterpart, Tabatinga, making it an ideal base for exploring the surrounding Amazon rainforest.

Geography & Climate
Leticia sits at an elevation of around 96 metres (315 feet) above sea level, right on the banks of the Amazon River. The climate is typical of tropical rainforests, with temperatures here consistently warm, ranging from 24°C to 32°C year-round, with high humidity and heavy rainfall, especially during the wet season from November to May. The Amazon River here, the lifeblood of this region, is vast in both scale and influence, stretching over 3 kilometres wide and plunging to depths exceeding 50 metres (164 feet) during the rainy season. The river’s level fluctuates by as much as 14 metres between the rainy and dry seasons, dramatically changing the landscape, which is lush with towering trees, dense jungle, and countless shades of green.

Riverside, Leticia, Colombia

History & Economics
Leticia has long been a crossroads of trade for the region, originally home to the Ticuna and other indigenous groups. The town itself was founded in the 1860s and quickly became an important port, with the river serving as the lifeblood for transport.

The town thrives on trade with its Brazilian neighbour, Tabatinga, as well as with Peru, offering a confluence of cultures, languages, and goods. Tourism and eco-tourism play an increasingly significant role in the local economy, with visitors drawn to its proximity to the untouched Amazon rainforest. Agriculture, fishing, and small-scale commerce also underpin the local economy, though the area remains relatively underdeveloped compared to other parts of Colombia.

Colombia-Brazil Border Crossing
Crossing the border between Leticia and Tabatinga, Brazil, is a seamless experience for locals and visitors alike. The two towns share close ties, and people move freely between them for trade and daily activities. For international travellers, the process is straightforward—exit Colombia via Leticia Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Alfredo Vásquez Cobo) for a stamp, then cross over to Tabatinga to obtain an entry stamp at the Federal Police office, a quick process that connects you to Brazil within minutes.  Tabatinga International Airport (Aeroporto Internacional de Tabatinga) has daily flights to Manaus and from there onwards to the rest of Brazil.

Excursions & Wildlife
Leticia offers an excellent base for exploring the Amazon. Our hotel, the Hotel Amazon Bed and Breakfast, arranged most of our excursions, which allowed us to explore the Amazon in depth. We took several boat trips along the river. 

One of our first excursions was an upstream trip into Peru’s Puerto Alegría, where we explored a small private zoo, home to baby sloths, caimans, and an orphaned jaguar. In Colombia, private zoos like this are not allowed, unlike in Peru, which sparked some reflection on the local wildlife policies. In Peru we also trekked through the jungle to a picturesque lake teeming with wildlife. Along the way, we encountered a dazzling array of flora and fauna—towering trees, colourful frogs, playful monkeys, and even a sloth. The lake itself housed piranhas, caimans, and the massive pirarucú fish (Arapaima gigas), one of the largest freshwater fish in the world.

Another memorable trip took us further upstream, where we were fortunate to spot both pink river dolphins (Inia geoffrensis) and grey dolphins (Sotalia fluviatilis). The pink dolphins hold a special place in local Ticuna folklore, where they are believed to be spirits of the afterlife, or sometimes the fathers of illegitimate children, adding a mystical element to their protection.

We also visited Isla de los Micos (Arara Island), famous for its playful squirrel monkeys that jump on visitors, making for an entertaining and interactive experience. Further upstream, Monkey Island is home to a large colony of monkeys that roam freely, fed by locals to keep them near the community. While the monkeys aren’t entirely wild, the experience is thrilling as they interact with visitors in a fun and curious way.

Isla de los Micos, Leticia, Colombia

Puerto Nariño, another Amazonian settlement, stood out for its cleanliness and tranquillity—no motor vehicles are allowed, which adds to its charm.

Parakeets in Parque Santander
One of Leticia’s most astonishing natural spectacles occurs each evening is Parque Santander’s nightly parrot show features little green parrots (Brotogeris jugularis), whose safety in the town is attributed to the absence of jungle predators that threaten them in their daytime habitats. As dusk falls, thousands of these parrots gather in the square’s tall trees to roost after a day of foraging in the jungle, creating a cacophony of sound and a vibrant spectacle. While the noise and droppings are overwhelming, it’s a gathering point for locals, who seem unfazed by the chaos above.

Parakeets in Parque Santander and Pink River Dolphin, Leticia, Colombia

The Legend of the Pink River Dolphin
The pink river dolphin holds a special place in the mythology of the Amazon’s indigenous people, particularly the Ticuna. According to legend, these dolphins are shapeshifters who can transform into handsome young men and come ashore to seduce women during celebrations. They are revered and often believed to be the spiritual protectors of the river, adding to their mystique and importance in Amazonian culture.

Museo Etnografico Amazonico
The Museo Etnográfico Amazónico, located near the riverfront, offers an insightful look into the region’s indigenous cultures. The museum houses artefacts, clothing, and tools used by various Amazonian tribes, providing visitors with a deeper understanding of their way of life. Exhibits focus on the Ticuna people, who have lived in the region for centuries, alongside other ethnic groups. The museum is an essential stop for anyone interested in the human history of the Amazon.

Leticia and the Amazon: Culinary Delights and Wildlife Wonders
Leticia and the Amazon offer a unique culinary experience influenced by the region’s biodiversity. A standout dish we enjoyed was piranha, served at the Sierras Amazonicas restaurant, which added an adventurous twist to our Amazonian journey. The rich flavours of the local cuisine reflect the cultural blend of the three countries surrounding the region, providing a true taste of the Amazon.

Environmental Challenges
Despite the stunning biodiversity and natural beauty, the Amazon faces numerous environmental challenges. Plastic waste and non-biodegradable materials are a major concern, particularly in Leticia, where litter is noticeable and mirrors the situation along other remote highways especially in Peru, which lie upstream. Waste management infrastructure is limited, making it difficult to cope with the growing influx of goods and visitors. Additionally, the deforestation and exploitation of natural resources remain ongoing threats to the region’s fragile ecosystems.

Final Thoughts
Leticia is a unique blend of cultures and a true frontier town, offering an authentic Amazonian experience. Its strategic location at the heart of the tri-border region makes it an excellent base for exploring the Amazon rainforest and learning about its diverse flora, fauna, and indigenous cultures. Despite its environmental challenges, Leticia remains a vibrant and fascinating entry point into the Amazon Basin, providing both adventure and cultural immersion.

Dates: 18/09/2018 to 22/09/2018