Manaus is a place of legends, known from geography lessons as the gateway to the Amazon, located deep in the heart of Brazil. Situated over 1,000 kilometres from both Leticia/Tabatinga upriver and Belém near the river’s mouth, it lies at the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Amazon River, just upstream of their famous meeting point. Home to over two million people, it is the largest city in the Amazon Basin. Manaus offers a mix of history, nature, and bustling modernity.

Nestled deep in the Amazon basin, Manaus is isolated from Brazil’s main population centres, connected primarily by plane or riverboat. Despite its isolation, the city has flourished into a bustling metropolis of over two million people, making it one of the largest cities in Brazil and largest in the Amazon region.

Our arrival and departure were by plane through Aeroporto Internacional Eduardo Gomes, a vital link between Manaus and the rest of the world. We stayed at the Hotel St. Paul, which was conveniently located near many of the city’s key attractions.

Geography and Climate
Manaus is situated just upstream on the Rio Negro, a few kilometres before it merges with the Amazon. At this point, the Rio Negro is already more than two kilometres wide, resembling a sea with its vast surface, waves whipped up by winds and currents. In places, the river reaches depths of up to 100 metres, allowing large ocean-going ships to dock in the city. The Amazon River itself, one of the longest rivers in the world at over 6,400 kilometres, is a lifeline for the city.

From Manaus, it takes around four days by riverboat to reach Belém or Macapá on the Atlantic Ocean, while travelling upstream to Leticia takes another four days. The river’s height can vary by up to 14 metres depending on the season, creating sandy beaches along the riverbanks during the dry season.

The meeting of the waters—where the dark Rio Negro flows alongside the lighter-coloured Amazon for several kilometres without mixing—is one of the most remarkable natural phenomena in the region and one of the must-see sites. This occurs because the Rio Negro, which originates in Colombia, picks up dark organic material from the rainforest, while the Amazon is filled with sediment from the Andes mountains.

Manaus sits near the equator at a very low altitude, just 92 metres above sea level. The city has a tropical rainforest climate, with high humidity and temperatures averaging between 25°C and 31°C year-round. Rainfall is abundant, with an annual average of about 2,300 mm. The Amazon River itself, at the point where it meets the Rio Negro, is already over 2 km wide and reaches depths of 100 metres, allowing ocean-going vessels to navigate this far inland.

Manaus is unique in that its docks host not just the ferries but also large ocean-going container ships and tankers. These vessels, over a thousand kilometres from the sea, make it one of the most fascinating inland ports in the world.  The ferries, often multi-storey with decks of hammocks and small cabins, play a vital role in connecting the interior regions of the Amazon.

Although traditionally isolated from the rest of Brazil, recent infrastructure developments mean that roads now extend from Manaus northward to Boa Vista and Venezuela. However, Manaus still lacks a direct road connection to Brazil’s major southern cities.

History and Economy
Manaus grew into a major trading centre during the rubber boom of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Wealth generated from this period allowed for the construction of the city’s most iconic structures, such as the Teatro Amazonas.

Following the decline of rubber, the city shifted focus to becoming an important industrial location in Brazil’s Free Trade Zone, which helped it survive economically Manaus has continued to prosper, evolving into a key, attracting agribusinesses and manufacturing industries due to its strategic location on the river.  While the rivers and rainforest continue to play a crucial role in local livelihoods, particularly through fishing, agriculture, and tourism.

Iconic Sites of Manaus:

Teatro Amazonas
Built during the height of the rubber boom in 1896, the Teatro Amazonas is an astonishing example of European architectural grandeur in the middle of the Amazon jungle. The theatre’s dome is its most iconic feature, covered with thousands of ceramic tiles in the colours of Brazil’s flag. This structure, much like the one in Belém, represents the ambition and wealth of Manaus’s early settlers, who wanted to showcase the city as a cultural and economic hub, despite its isolation. Inside, the theatre is just as lavish, with Italian marble staircases and chandeliers imported from France.

Palácio Rio Negro (Governor’s House)
The former residence of the state governor, the Palácio Rio Negro, stands as a symbol of Manaus’s wealth during the rubber boom. Built in 1903, it reflects the opulence of the era, with elaborate wooden flooring made from local wood in contrasting colours, grand staircases, and ornate balconies. Today, it serves as a cultural centre and museum.

Igreja São Sebastião
Located adjacent to the Teatro Amazonas, the Igreja São Sebastião is notable for its unique black and white patterned floor in the churchyard, representing the meeting of the waters. Built in the late 19th century, the church offers a more understated elegance compared to the Teatro, but it remains a key part of the cultural fabric of Manaus.

Catedral de Manaus (Catedral Nossa Senhora da Conceição)
Constructed in 1878, the Catedral de Manaus, or Our Lady of the Conception Cathedral, is the principal church in the city. Its neoclassical design features a simple but grand façade, and its interior houses several religious artefacts from the 19th century. The cathedral’s prominence in the city reflects its deep-rooted significance to the people of Manaus.

Colonial Architecture Around the Museum da Cidade de Manaus
The old city centre of Manaus is home to several impressive colonial-era buildings, many of which are located around the Museum da Cidade de Manaus. These buildings, with their faded facades and grand arches, tell the story of a city that once flourished on the back of the rubber trade. Today many have become small shops, cafes and restaurants and stand as a testament to the rich history of Manaus and its evolution from a small trading post to a major metropolis.

The Central Market
The Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa, Manaus’s central market, is another key site. Built in 1883, it’s an architectural marvel, with its wrought-iron framework imported from Europe, inspired by the famous Les Halles market in Paris. The market is a hive of activity, selling everything from exotic fruits to Amazonian fish. It’s also a great place to sample local foods, including unique fish like tambaqui and pirarucu, which are native to the Amazon basin.

The Docks and Riverboats
Manaus’s port is a busy hub, where multi-storey riverboats dock alongside enormous ocean-going vessels. These ferries serve as a vital transport link, connecting the city to the Atlantic Ocean and towns upstream. Riverboats often have three or more levels, where hammocks are slung for long-distance travellers, and they provide a fascinating insight into life on the river. It’s an incredible sight to see large container ships so far inland, a testament to the size and navigability of the Amazon.

Excursions and Wildlife
Manaus is the gateway to the Amazon rainforest, however with the city being so large, it takes some time to escape into the surrounding jungle. To really understand and appreciate the city, the best trip to take is one on the river, as it offers an unprecedented insight into the city and its surrounding area. The trip we took went upstream on the Rio Negro and under the recently built bridge over the Rio Negro to some indigenous communities, including the Tribu Indigena Tujuci, who put on some dancing displays for the tourists, principally Brazilian, to earn some hard cash to preserve what they can of their traditions. The river has a number of sandy beaches, which vary in size depending on the season and thus the height of the river – it can vary up to 14 metres depending on the season.

Pink Amazon river dolphins, (inia geoffrensis) also live in the area and in some places while they remain wild animals, they are fed so as to encourage them to swim near some specific areas of the river, where tourists gather. Like dolphins the world over these large mammals have a permanent smile and their nature inevitably rubs off on most visitors. In addition to numerous birds and fishes, the other main mammal that is regularly visible are the playful squirrel monkeys, (saimiri sciureus). These cheeky animals live near many of the human settlements and look for easy food. Indeed, we witnessed one chap take a banana out of one unsuspecting tourist’s bag and then expertly peel and eat it.

Environmental Challenges
Manaus faces several environmental challenges due to deforestation, industrialisation, and climate change. Rising temperatures and unpredictable rainfall have affected the local ecosystem, threatening the delicate balance of the rainforest and its biodiversity. The city also struggles with pollution in its rivers, a growing issue as urbanisation continues to expand.

Final Thoughts
Manaus is truly the heart of the Amazon—a city steeped in history, culture, and natural beauty. From its iconic opera house to its bustling markets and rich wildlife, it offers an unparalleled experience for those looking to explore the Amazon basin. Despite its challenges, Manaus continues to be a vital centre of commerce and culture in the region, bridging the worlds of industry and the rainforest.

Dates: 22/09/2018 to 26/09/2018