With a population of approximately 2.6 million (and over 3.7 million in the metropolitan area), Medellín is Colombia’s second-largest city and the capital of the department of Antioquia. Nestled in the Aburrá Valley, part of the Andes Mountain range, Medellín has long been renowned for its dynamic culture, mild climate, and innovative urban development. Known globally for its violent past linked to Pablo Escobar and the Medellín Cartel during the 1980s and 1990s, the city has now evolved into a vibrant metropolis that celebrates commerce, innovation, culture, and resilience.
Medellín’s recovery from its dark days stands as a beacon of hope for the rest of Colombia and other cities facing similar challenges. Today it is one of the must visit destinations in Colombia for tourists as the city continues to leave behind in history its violent past.
Geography and Climate
Situated in a lush, green valley and surrounded by the Andes, Medellín enjoys a privileged geographic location. Its tropical monsoon climate, moderated by its elevation at about 1,500 metres, makes it known as the “City of Eternal Spring.” Temperatures average around 22°C year-round, providing a perfect climate for both its citizens and tourists. The mountains not only shape its climate but also affect the layout of the city, with steep hillsides where Comunas (neighbourhoods) such as Comuna 13 cling to the slopes.
Medellín, Colombia
History
Early History of Medellín
The region around Medellín was originally inhabited by indigenous groups, including the Aburrá people, who gave their name to the valley. Spanish settlers first arrived in the 1540s, led by conquistador Jorge Robledo. However, the foundation of Medellín as a formal settlement didn’t occur until 1616 when Francisco Herrera Campuzano established a small indigenous town known as Poblado de San Lorenzo, in what is now El Poblado, south of the city centre.
The Spanish Crown officially founded the “Villa de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de Medellín” in 1675, which slowly began to grow, benefiting from its strategic location along trade routes through the mountains. Throughout the colonial period, Medellín remained a modest settlement, largely oriented around agriculture, particularly gold mining, and cattle farming, until the 19th century when it began to expand rapidly, laying the foundation for its role as an industrial powerhouse during the 20th century.
Recent History: A City Reborn
The history of Medellín cannot be told without addressing its painful recent past. The Medellín Cartel, led by Pablo Escobar, turned the city into a battlefield in the 1980s and early 1990s. Following his death in 1993, Medellín began a long journey towards recovery, supported by investments in public infrastructure, education, and social programmes aimed at integrating marginalised communities. Today, Medellín is a model of urban regeneration, highlighted by the installation of cable cars, the transformation of dangerous neighbourhoods like Comuna 13, and the creation of cultural landmarks like Plaza Botero. The city has flourished into a modern, cosmopolitan hub, a testament to the resilience of its people.
Plaza Botero, Venus dormida, Plaza Botero and Street Art, Comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia
Economics
Once dominated by the illicit drug trade, Medellín’s economy has now diversified significantly. The city is an important industrial and commercial centre in Colombia, with sectors like textiles, construction, and tourism playing crucial roles. Efforts to attract international investment have also helped Medellín position itself as a technological and innovation hub in Latin America, earning it the title of “Innovative City of the Year” by the Wall Street Journal and the Urban Land Institute in 2013.
Principal Sites
Plaza Botero: Sculptures and Reactions
Plaza Botero, located in the heart of Medellín and adjacent to the Museo de Antioquia, showcases 23 iconic sculptures donated by Fernando Botero, one of Colombia’s most renowned artists. His exaggerated, voluminous figures, characteristic of his “Boterismo” style, challenging conventional ideas of proportion, are evident in works like La Gorda (The Fat Woman), Caballo (Horse), El Hombre a Caballo (Man on Horseback), El Gato (The Cat), and El Perro (The Dog). Playful pieces like Adán y Eva (Adam and Eve), Mujer con espejo (Woman with Mirror), and Hombre caminante (Walking Man) invite interaction.
The statues have been polished in parts, a testament to the many hands that have touched them over the years, creating a shiny finish that highlights their whimsical nature. The vibrant atmosphere of the plaza is often filled with tourists taking selfies and locals enjoying the art, contributing to a sense of community and joy. Botero’s aim, however, is more profound—he invites viewers to reconsider beauty, power, and the nature of human form.
Adán y Eva, El Gato, El Perro and Mujer reclinada, Plaza Botero, Medellín, Colombia
El Gato (The Cat)
El Gato is a playful, oversized sculpture that embodies Botero’s signature style, characterized by its exaggerated proportions. With its charming, slightly mischievous expression and a tongue sticking out, the statue invites visitors to engage with it. People often pose for photos beside this beloved figure, enhancing the lively atmosphere of Plaza Botero. The cat’s shiny surface, polished by countless hands, reflects the joy it brings to those who interact with it.
El Perro (The Dog)
Similar to El Gato, El Perro is a whimsical sculpture that captures attention with its stout body and endearing features. Its tongue also hangs out, adding to its playful demeanour. The dog serves as a delightful focal point in the plaza, where visitors often gather around, taking selfies and enjoying the cheerful vibe. The interaction with this statue has left it with a shiny patina, highlighting the affection it receives from the public.
Adán y Eva (Adam and Eve)
Adán y Eva portrays the biblical figures with Botero’s distinct voluptuous style. The exaggerated forms of both figures challenge traditional representations, inviting viewers to reconsider familiar narratives. The statue’s placement in the plaza encourages reflection on themes of love and humanity. Visitors are drawn to their larger-than-life presence, often stopping to admire the intricate details and share their interpretations.
Mujer con espejo (Woman with Mirror)
Mujer con espejo depicts a curvaceous woman gazing at her reflection, embodying Botero’s exploration of beauty and self-perception. The statue’s smooth, rounded forms and the reflective surface of the mirror invite contemplation on vanity and self-image. People often engage with this sculpture, sharing their thoughts and taking photos that capture the playful essence of Botero’s work.
Mujer reclinada (Reclining Woman)
Mujer reclinada presents a relaxed figure, emphasizing the softness of the human form. This sculpture invites viewers to appreciate the beauty of leisure and the celebration of the female figure. Its inviting pose encourages onlookers to stop, take a moment, and reflect on themes of comfort and relaxation. The statue’s shiny areas are a testament to the many people who have touched it, leaving a mark of interaction and appreciation.
El Caballo (The Horse)
El Caballo captures the strength and majesty of a robust horse, with its muscular form exaggerated in Botero’s signature style. Its sturdy legs and arched neck give the horse a sense of movement, as if ready to trot across the plaza. Visitors often touch its nose and hooves, which have taken on a polished sheen from years of human contact. The horse’s robust and round features embody Botero’s idea of volume, giving the impression of immense power in a peaceful, almost regal stance.
Rapto de Europa, and El Caballo Plaza Botero, Medellín, Colombia
El Hombre a Caballo (Man on Horse)
El Hombre a Caballo a companion piece to El Caballo, this sculpture depicts a man atop a similarly round, imposing horse. The rider holds a sword in his right hand, seemingly ready for battle, but his exaggeratedly large body and passive face add a playful quality. His legs, hanging from either side of the horse, are often touched by passers-by, making the patina on the rider’s boots gleam. The fusion of equestrian grandeur with Botero’s playful exaggeration creates a figure that draws admiration for its unlikely combination of themes.
Hombre Caminante (Walking Man)
Hombre Caminante presents an interesting dynamic of two stacked human figures. The large, stout man confidently strides atop a flattened woman lying beneath him. The man’s exaggerated belly and firm posture contrast with the woman’s elongated, somewhat abstract form. The sculpture invites mixed reactions—some see it as a playful symbol of dominance, while others interpret it more critically. The woman’s smooth surface has become worn and shiny from frequent touching, especially around her face and hands.
| El Pájaro Herido (The Wounded Bird) in San Antonio Plaza One of the most powerful pieces in the Medellin is El Pájaro Herido (The Wounded Bird) by Fernando Botero, which commemorates a tragic event in Medellín’s violent history. This painting is based on the 1995 car bomb attack in the San Antonio Plaza, where a bomb was hidden inside a sculpture of El Pájaro (The Bird), one of Botero’s large bronze pieces. The explosion killed over 20 people and injured many others, including children, during a public event. Botero insisted that the destroyed sculpture remain in the plaza as a memorial, and a new sculpture, El Pájaro de Paz (The Bird of Peace), was placed next to the original. In his painting, Botero captures the aftermath of the bombing with his signature inflated figures, depicting the explosion’s destructive power while also emphasising the resilience of the community. The contrast between the two sculptures, one mangled and the other pristine, symbolises both the city’s violent past and its hopes for peace.This piece serves as a profound reminder of the tragedy, but also how Medellín has rebuilt itself in the face of such hardship, embracing hope and resilience despite its dark history. |
El Pájaro Herido, San Antonio Plaza, Medellin, Colombia
Museo de Antioquia
The Museo de Antioquia stands as one of the foremost cultural institutions in Medellín, deeply tied to the city’s artistic legacy. It holds a substantial collection of Fernando Botero’s works, including his iconic sculptures in Plaza Botero, as well as his paintings and drawings inside the museum. These works span his long and varied career, offering visitors insight into the development of his unique style, characterised by exaggerated forms and social commentary.
The museum doesn’t just focus on Botero, however. Its collection extends to pieces from other notable Colombian artists and features international artworks as well. The permanent exhibitions include pre-Columbian artifacts, colonial-era pieces, and modern and contemporary works that reflect both Colombia’s history and its evolving art scene. There is also a wing dedicated to Medellín’s history, which gives visitors a broader understanding of the city’s complex past and its transformation from a hub of violence to a thriving cultural centre. The museum’s architecture, with its combination of classic and modern elements, provides a fitting backdrop for the works it houses. Some of the principal pieces include:
- La Muerte de Pablo Escobar (The Death of Pablo Escobar) – Fernando Botero
This iconic painting is a powerful reflection of Medellín’s tumultuous past. Botero portrays the death of infamous drug lord Pablo Escobar in his distinctive exaggerated style, capturing the moment Escobar is gunned down on a Medellín rooftop. The scale of Escobar’s bloated body dominates the canvas, symbolising the outsized impact of his life on Colombia, while tiny soldiers shoot at him from below. The painting is a visual commentary on the violence that plagued the city, and Escobar’s immense yet ultimately destructive influence. - Mano Grande (Big Hand) – Fernando Botero
Another signature work by Botero, Mano Grande is a large, surrealist sculpture of a hand, one of his most famous pieces outside of his human and animal forms. The hand, with its inflated proportions, symbolises power and strength, but its open palm also suggests peace and acceptance. It’s a playful yet thought-provoking piece, representing both human capability and vulnerability. Visitors often stand beside the large hand for photos, touching it for luck, with the bronze surface gleaming from frequent handling. - El Carro Bomba (The Car Bomb) – Fernando Botero
Is one of his most evocative and sombre. This painting vividly portrays the chaos and devastation caused by the attack. The image centres on a Medellín street scene moments after a bomb explodes. Using his iconic inflated style, Botero amplifies the destruction, depicting wrecked cars and scattered bodies with an unnerving calmness. The exaggerated figures, lifeless in the aftermath, capture the senselessness of the violence that plagued Medellín during the height of the drug wars.
El Carro Bomba, La Muerte de Pablo Escobar, Museo de Antioquia, Medellin, Colombia
Medellín’s Churches and Changing Cathedrals
Catedral Metropolitana de Medellín (Metropolitan Cathedral)
Medellín’s Metropolitan Cathedral, located in the Parque de Bolívar, is a testament to the city’s religious and architectural history. Built over 55 years from 1875 to 1930, the cathedral is considered one of the largest brick structures in the world. The neo-Romanesque architecture, characterised by its vast, vaulted ceilings and towering facade, was designed by French architect Charles Émile Carré. Initially, the city had a much smaller parish church, but as Medellín grew, a larger, more imposing structure became necessary. Inside, stained-glass windows depict religious scenes, casting vibrant light on the dark wooden pews below.
Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria
This basilica, originally built in the 18th century, served as Medellín’s cathedral until the completion of the Catedral Metropolitana. It showcases beautiful Baroque architecture with a simplistic white façade, contrasting the intricate interior, which houses several religious artworks. The basilica’s serene atmosphere makes it a popular spot for both worshippers and tourists alike.
Iglesia de San Ignacio
The Iglesia de San Ignacio, one of Medellín’s oldest churches, is a fine example of colonial Baroque architecture, standing in contrast to the Metropolitan Cathedral’s Romanesque style. The church, located in the neighbourhood of Prado, features ornate altars and frescoes that reflect Medellín’s colonial past. Over time, the church has been preserved to maintain its historical charm, while additional restorations have kept it relevant to modern congregations. The church’s white and gold altar serves as a centrepiece, and the elegant design speaks to the influence of European religious architecture in Latin America.
Ermita de la Veracruz
Ermita de la Veracruz is another one of the oldest churches in Medellín, dating back to the 18th century. Its charming white exterior and simple design reflect the colonial style prevalent during its construction. The church’s interior is adorned with beautiful woodwork and local art, providing a glimpse into the city’s religious heritage. Its location near bustling plazas makes it a peaceful retreat amidst the urban hustle.
Ermita de la Veracruz, Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria and Catedral Metropolitana de Medellín, Medellín, Colombia
Cerro El Volador: Medellín’s Green Space
Cerro El Volador, the largest natural park in Medellín, offers a peaceful retreat for those looking to escape the city’s bustling pace. The hill, standing 82 metres high, is one of the city’s Seven Guardian Hills (Siete Cerros Tutelares) and provides spectacular views over Medellín’s skyline. The park is home to a variety of flora and fauna, with walking and cycling paths that allow visitors to explore its natural beauty. Cerro El Volador also holds archaeological significance, with pre-Hispanic burial sites discovered in the area. Locals use the park for outdoor activities such as jogging, picnicking, and kite flying, contributing to Medellín’s reputation as a city that values its green spaces.
Comuna 13
Perhaps the most powerful example of Medellín’s transformation is found in Comuna 13, once one of the most dangerous neighbourhoods in the city. The installation of six orange-canopied escalators has improved access to the city centre, giving residents a chance to integrate more fully into the urban fabric. Today, Comuna 13 is known for its vibrant street art, much of which tells stories of survival and resilience. We took the highly recommended Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour was guided by Walter, who provided profound insights into the area’s history, politics, and regeneration. One striking feature is the mural of faces with eyes that seem to follow you—a metaphor for the community’s unflinching gaze on its own past.
The street art in Comuna 13 is continually evolving, with old piece of art being painted over and new ones being created in their place. Some of the artists have international following and examples of their art can be found in many different cities. One of the artists whose work we identified in several pieces in Comuna 13 was Chota13 who over the years has been influential in transforming the public image of the Comuna – his work is often typified by faces with big eyes.
Street Art, Comuna 13, Medellín, Colombia
El Poblado
The district of El Poblado is Medellín’s entertainment and culinary hub. Its bustling streets are lined with restaurants, bars, and clubs that come alive at night. We stayed at the Art Hotel Boutique during our visits in both 2018 and 2022, located in the vibrant Poblado district, offers a modern, artsy ambiance with an industrial-chic design, blending exposed brick walls with contemporary artwork. Its sleek, urban decor complements the trendy atmosphere of the Poblado neighbourhood, which is known for its nightlife, restaurants, and cafes. The hotel features a rooftop bar, a stylish lobby, and proximity to Parque Lleras, making it an ideal base for exploring Medellín’s lively social scene. We found the Poblado district to be full of youthful energy, from reggaeton to salsa clubs. Notable eateries there include Mondongo’s, a local favourite known for its hearty traditional soups offering modern Colombian cuisine.
Parque Lleras and Art Hotel Boutique, Poblado, Medellín
The Cable Car: Connecting Communities
The Metrocable is one of the symbols of Medellín’s urban innovation, connecting previously isolated neighbourhoods in the hills with the city centre. The cable car system was introduced as part of a broader urban mobility plan, addressing Medellín’s geographical challenges. It links the city’s modern metro system to hillside communities like Santo Domingo and Comuna 13, providing residents with quick, affordable access to employment, education, and healthcare. In addition to serving locals, the Metrocable is also popular with tourists, offering panoramic views of the city as it ascends into the hills.
Comuna 13, Medellin, Colombia
Botero’s Legacy
Fernando Botero is perhaps the most recognisable figure to come from Medellín. His art, characterised by exaggerated and voluptuous forms, has gained worldwide recognition, and his generous donations to his hometown helped revitalise it. In addition to his sculptures in Plaza Botero, many of his paintings, which critique social issues with wit and bold imagery, can be found in the Museo de Antioquia.
| Medellín Cartel The Medellín Cartel, led by Pablo Escobar, was at the centre of the city’s notoriety in the 1980s. At its height, the cartel controlled a significant portion of the global cocaine trade, and violence engulfed the city. The death of Escobar in 1993 marked the beginning of the city’s slow recovery, aided by a strong government crackdown on drug trafficking and violent crime. |
Keeping Medellín Safe and Clean
Medellín, once notorious for its violent past, has undergone a remarkable transformation. One of the keys to the city’s regeneration has been a focus on cleanliness and safety, overseen by both local authorities and community initiatives. Public spaces, such as parks and plazas, are well-maintained, with regular waste collection and city-wide beautification projects. The policía comunitaria (community police) work closely with neighbourhoods to ensure safety, while an extensive CCTV network monitors high-traffic areas. Medellín’s police force has a strong presence in popular tourist destinations like the Comuna 13, helping maintain order and prevent the resurgence of crime.
Trips to the Surrounding Region
Guatapé: Colourful Streets and the Rock of El Peñol
Just a two-hour drive from Medellín, Guatapé is a picturesque town celebrated for its vibrant, decorated zócalos—intricately painted panels that adorn the lower facades of buildings. These zócalos each tell unique stories, often depicting aspects of the local heritage, trades, or daily life of the families within. This tradition, which dates back to the 20th century, is thought to have emerged as a way for locals to express their individual stories, honouring family legacies and the town’s collective identity. Today, the zócalos have become an essential feature of Guatapé’s charm, making each street a gallery of art and storytelling.
At the heart of Guatapé is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, the town’s principal church and a striking example of colonial-style architecture. Built in the late 19th century, the church features red-and-white exterior details that echo the vibrant colours seen throughout the town. Inside, the church has a simple but serene layout, reflecting its role as a centre of faith and community gathering. The church remains an important cultural and historical landmark, honouring Our Lady of Mount Carmel as the patron saint of Guatapé and preserving a quiet sense of reverence within this lively town.
Guatape, Colombia
Surrounding Guatapé is the man-made Embalse Guatapé (Guatapé Reservoir), a vast lake created in the 1970s through the construction of a hydroelectric dam. This reservoir submerged much of the old town of El Peñol, neighbouring Guatapé, in the process. Today, the lake is one of the area’s most defining features, stretching across lush, hilly landscapes and providing water and power to the Antioquia region. The lake’s scenic inlets and peninsulas have transformed it into a major draw for watersports, boat tours, and fishing, giving Guatapé both a vibrant local economy and a peaceful, lakeside atmosphere that balances its artistic energy.
The crown jewel of Guatapé is the Piedra del Peñol (El Peñol Rock), a colossal granite monolith towering 200 metres above the landscape. Originally disputed between Guatapé and the neighbouring town of El Peñol, this geological marvel is now a symbol of regional pride. Visitors can climb the 740 steps built into its side to reach a summit offering breathtaking panoramic views of the reservoir and surrounding green hills. The striking natural landmark stands as a testament to the region’s rugged beauty, drawing visitors from around the world to witness its commanding views.
La Piedra del Penal and Embalse Guatapé Colombia
Jardín de Antioquia: A Tranquil Escape
Further afield lies the charming town of Jardín, nestled in the Antioquia countryside. Known for its colonial architecture, colourful wooden balconies, and surrounding coffee farms, Jardín is a popular weekend escape for Medellín’s residents, about a three-hour drive through some breathtaking Andean scenery. The town’s plaza principal (main square), with its cobbled paths and open-air cafés, is the perfect spot to relax and watch the town’s daily rhythm unfold. Fringed by vividly painted buildings, the square’s picturesque feel is crowned by the Basílica Menor de la Inmaculada Concepción, a stunning Gothic-style church with twin towers that can be seen from miles away. Built in 1918, this iconic structure has become a focal point of Jardín’s landscape, drawing visitors with its beautiful stained glass windows and peaceful, intricately designed interior.
Around the plaza, colonial houses with bright colours and wooden balconies painted in shades of red, blue, and yellow, line the streets, adding to the town’s vibrant feel. Hotel La Casona, where we stayed, offered a charming and comfortable retreat. Located just steps from the main square, this boutique hotel features rustic décor, lush gardens, and a welcoming atmosphere, ideal for soaking in Jardín’s tranquil energy.
Horse culture is an integral part of Jardín’s identity. Local horse riders, often seen in the square, proudly display their fine Paso Fino horses, renowned for their graceful gait. This tradition is celebrated during weekends and festivals, with riders gathering around the plaza, showcasing skills that have been passed down through generations.
Jardín de Antioquia, Colombia
Jardín is surrounded by lush coffee farms, and visitors can hike to hidden waterfalls or explore the Cueva del Esplendor (Cave of Splendour), a nearby natural attraction with a cascading waterfall inside a cave. The relaxed pace of life and the region’s natural beauty make Jardín an ideal retreat from Medellín’s bustling cityscape. Nature lovers can enjoy activities like birdwatching, with the chance to spot the Andean cock-of-the-rock and other exotic species native to the Andes.
Final Thoughts
Medellín’s story is one of rebirth. From its dark days as the epicentre of the drug trade, it has risen to become a city of innovation and culture. While challenges remain, Medellín’s transformation offers hope and inspiration for other cities seeking to overcome their troubled pasts.
Communa 13 and Esfinge, Plaza Botero, Medellín, Colombia
Dates: 06/09/2018 to 10/09/2018 and 13/05/2022 to 19/05/2022