Overview
Santa Cruz de Mompox (often spelled Mompos locally) is one of Colombia’s best-preserved colonial treasures. Situated on the Magdalena River, this town feels like a portal to another era, its well-preserved architecture and tranquil streets offering visitors a unique glimpse into Colombia’s past. It can feel like a town suspended in time and is often referred to as Cartagena without the crowds, or how Cartagena was like some 100 or so years ago before the modernity of the 20th Century came.
The isolation of Mompox over the centuries, once only accessible by river, has preserved its charm. Mompox was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1995, recognising the exceptional conservation of its colonial architecture and urban landscape, reflecting centuries of cultural and historical significance.
The town’s atmosphere provided inspiration for Gabriel García Márquez’s Macondo, the fictional town in One Hundred Years of Solitude. Although fictional, Macondo’s essence mirrors Mompox’s reality. Additionally, in The General in His Labyrinth, Mompox features as a location where Simón Bolívar finds solace during his final days, making it part of both literary and real-life history. The town’s character has also reached the screen, with the river scenes in the 2007 film Love in the Time of Cholera filmed in Mompox itself.
Geography & Climate
Mompox. within the Bolívar department, is nestled along the Magdalena River’s floodplains, about 300 kilometres from the Caribbean Sea. These fertile lands, nourished by the Magdalena River, contribute to the town’s agrarian economy and its wildlife-rich environment.
Life revolves around the river, which was once the lifeline of the town, connecting it to the rest of Colombia. The area experiences a tropical climate, with hot temperatures often reaching the mid-30s°C, accompanied by high humidity. The town’s isolation, due to shifting trade routes and the construction of modern roads, has helped preserve its colonial charm.
History & Economy
Founded in 1537, Mompox was a thriving commercial port during the Spanish colonial period, vital in connecting the interior of Colombia with the Caribbean coast. Over time, its isolation after the decline of river transport meant that the town’s colonial architecture remained remarkably intact. The Church of Santa Bárbara and other religious buildings stand as legacies of Mompox’s golden age.
The town was also a significant location in the fight for independence, with Simón Bolívar famously stating, “If to Caracas I owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory.” Today, the town is known for its silver filigree jewellery workshops and increasingly, tourism.
Principal Sites
Iglesia de Santa Bárbara
The most iconic of Mompox’s churches, built in 1613, stands right by the river in striking adobe orange. Its hexagonal bell tower and intricately carved facade make it one of the most beautiful religious structures in the country. The small square in front of it offers a peaceful setting, often framed by the river’s backdrop.
Iglesia de San Francisco
Painted in a deep crimson red, this churc,h built in 1580, stands in contrast to others. Like the others, it faces a square filled with trees and overlooks the river. The simplicity of its structure, paired with the square’s greenery, makes it a serene stop in the town.
Church of the Immaculate Conception
Located on its namesake square, this orange-and-white church features a bell tower similar to, albeit smaller than Saint Andrew’s Cathedral in Cartagena. Erected in 1541, this church is the centrepiece of the Plaza de la Concepción. The square itself is often filled with locals in the evening, contributing to the lively community atmosphere.
Casa de la Cultura
Once a residence, this colonial building is now a cultural hub for art exhibitions and local history. The courtyard and the structure’s architecture highlight the traditional design of colonial homes.
Iglesia de San Agustín
Although lesser known, this church dates to 1606, still carries the elegance of Mompox’s architectural heritage and contributes to the charm of its colonial landscape. A number of miracles are said to have happened here.
Colonial Streets & Riverside
Walking through the streets of Mompox is an experience in itself. The whitewashed colonial buildings are adorned with colourful doors and shutters. Many of these houses are built around tranquil courtyards, where vibrant plants and shady verandas offer respite from the heat. The riverside promenade is particularly striking, with bars and restaurants spilling onto it, and many setting out rocking chairs in the evenings—perfect for relaxing with a cold drink after a hot day.
Our stays at Colonial House – Café Mompox in 2018 and Hotel Nieto Mompox Riverfront in 2022 provided an intimate experience of this traditional courtyard architecture.
River Trip
A must-do in Mompox is a river trip on the Magdalena. The journey through the marshlands takes you into lakes where you’ll see a variety of birdlife, including white ibis and Amazon kingfishers. Local fishermen cast their nets along the shore, creating a scene reminiscent of centuries past. The beauty of the surrounding wetlands adds a layer of tranquillity and natural beauty to Mompox. The river is still very much alive with activity, from local fishermen to the swathes of water hyacinths that clog the waterways.
Food & Drink
Mompox has a growing number of restaurants that reflect the town’s increasing tourism. Traditional Colombian fare is easy to find, but the town’s unique dining experiences truly come alive in the evening when the riverside bars and restaurants set up tables outside. A signature experience is enjoying a drink in a rocking chair while watching the sun set over the river.
In addition to local dining, you’ll also find small cafes serving traditional Colombian coffee, and bars featuring lively, if relaxed, evening entertainment.
Environment
Mompox is surrounded by verdant floodplains and marshlands, rich with biodiversity. Its position on the Magdalena River makes it a key area for fishing and small-scale agriculture. However, the river’s seasonal changes due to heavy rains can dramatically alter the landscape, expanding marshlands and cutting off certain areas. This creates both challenges and beauty, with the region’s wildlife, especially bird species, flourishing in these conditions.
Travel to & from Mompox
Getting to and from Mompox has historically been challenging, contributing to its isolation. The new bridge at El Bancohas now connected Mompox to the rest of Colombia’s road network, making it accessible via Bucaramanga, Barranquilla, and Bogotá.
In 2022, we faced an unexpected complication due to an “Armed Strike” by the Clan del Golfo. The group’s activities paralysed transport through the Sucre and Córdoba provinces, forcing us to divert back to the main Bucaramanga to Santa Marta Road. After being dropped off at a remote junction where the road to El Banco spurred off the main highway, we were picked by the burros, motorbike riders, who took us riding pillion on their motorbikes, complete with luggage the 11kms to the next town to catch a Bucaramanga to Baranquilla bus. This detour added an extra layer of adventure to our already exciting journey.
A few hours into our journey as night began to fall, the authorities closed the road for the night, and we stopped at a bus depot out just outside the small agricultural town of El Cruse de la Loma. Not fancying the prospect of spending the night on a bench in the tropical crowded heat we located a small motel on the main highway, nearby which had room for the night. However, because the highway had been closed for the night all the local eating places for travellers on the main highway also closed. The hotel manager called a motorbike rickshaw to take us further into town, where he dropped us off by the main square where there was a sports bar serving barbeque meat and showing European football on the TVs (all European teams that had a Colombian player on their books were shown with a little Colombian flag next to their name.). It was the best place in town, according to our driver, and after a tiring day we had a good meal. When we finished our meal, the rickshaw driver was waiting for us to take us back to our motel.
Final Thoughts
Mompox is a place where time seems to stand still, offering visitors a chance to experience Colombia’s colonial past without the throngs of tourists found in Cartagena. Its charming streets, striking churches, and the tranquillity of the river make it a perfect retreat for those seeking something more authentic. Whether you’re fascinated by its history, its connection to García Márquez’s novels, or just want to relax in a rocking chair by the river, Mompox is a destination that leaves a lasting impression.
Dates: 09/12/2018 to 12/12/2018 and 04/05/2022 to 07/05/2022