Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital and largest city, is home to nearly 1.4 million people, making it a lively hub in this relatively small South American nation. The city, stretching along the Río de la Plata, is renowned for its blend of colonial history, progressive social policies, and rich cultural life. As the country’s political, cultural, and economic heart, Montevideo presents a mix of modernity and tradition, from bustling shopping malls to historic colonial plazas.  Montevideo feels secure and doesn’t carry the latent tension felt in parts of Brazil and elsewhere in Latin America.

Historically, Montevideo has been one of the more expensive cities in South America, particularly when compared to neighbouring Argentina and indeed that was the case in our 2018 visit. However, as of 2025, economic changes in Argentina, mean that today Uruguay is significantly cheaper than Argentina.

Geography and Climate
Montevideo sits on the southern coast of Uruguay along the Río de la Plata, a wide estuary that separates the city from Argentina. The city’s terrain is relatively flat, with gently undulating hills surrounding it. Montevideo’s coastal location offers a mild climate, with summer temperatures averaging 28°C (82°F) and winter temperatures around 10°C (50°F). The city’s temperate climate makes it an attractive destination year-round, though its beaches are especially popular in the summer months.

History
Montevideo’s origins can be traced back to the early 18th century when it was founded by Spanish settlers as a strategic military outpost. The city has grown significantly since its colonial days, playing a central role in Uruguay’s independence from both Spain and its neighbouring giant, Brazil. Montevideo has also been a beacon of democratic stability in Latin America, except for a military dictatorship period from 1973 to 1985. Today, the city reflects Uruguay’s progressive character with legalised same-sex marriage, cannabis use, and one of the highest literacy rates in the region.

Arrival in the City

On our 2025 visit to Montevideo we took the short flight from Buenos Aires to Montevideo’s Carrasco International Airport (MVD), one of the most modern and efficient airports in South America. With streamlined immigration and a well-organised transport network, arrivals are smooth, and taxis or private transfers to the city centre take around 30 minutes.

Back in 2018, we arrived in Montevideo on a rainy day from Punta del Este, travelling by bus through the largely unseen countryside. The bus arrived at Tres Cruces, a busy and modern transport hub located beneath a shopping mall. The shopping centre, filled with international brands and throngs of shoppers, reflects Uruguay’s economic vitality. Unlike the UK, there is no plastic bag tax here, meaning bags are still freely handed out in shops—a small reminder that while progressive, Uruguay continues its journey toward environmental reform.

On both visits we stayed at the BIT Design Hotel, in Punta Carretas, a chic, residential area in the south of the city, replete with shopping malls, upscale restaurants, and a park with a golf course. From here, it’s clear that certain parts of Montevideo mirror the quality of life seen in mid-tier European countries, with a visible middle-class presence and a high standard of living.

Montevideo’s coastline from the airport and Punta del Este, is lined with modern apartment buildings, some rivalling those seen in European cities. Along the Rambla, the city’s coastal boulevard, there is a mix of modern high-rises and older buildings, with international stores, restaurants, and cafés filling the commercial districts.

Key Sites

Plaza Independencia

The beating heart of Montevideo, Plaza Independencia, marks the transition between the Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) and the more modern downtown area. Dominated by the impressive Palacio Salvo, once the tallest building in South America, the square is also home to the Mausoleum of José Artigas, Uruguay’s national hero. His remains lie in an underground chamber beneath the equestrian statue that towers over the plaza. 

Nearby, the Puerta de la Ciudadela, the only remaining fragment of Montevideo’s original fortifications, serves as a reminder of the city’s colonial past.  Also located on Plaza Independencia is the Teatro Solís, Uruguay’s oldest and most prestigious theatre. Opened in 1856, this neoclassical gem has hosted numerous world-class performances and remains a cultural centre of Montevideo. The theatre offers guided tours that showcase its grand interiors and historical significance.

Plaza Indepencia

The Palacio Estévez, a 19th-century government building, and the Torre Ejecutiva, the modern seat of the presidency, also stand prominently around the plaza, showcasing Montevideo’s blend of historical and contemporary architecture.

The square’s grand architecture and historical significance make it an essential starting point for exploring Montevideo.

Palacio Salvo

One of Montevideo’s most iconic landmarks is Palacio Salvo, a curious art deco building with a distinctive tower, completed in 1929. For many, its stumpy, slightly awkward form encapsulates the city’s quirky charm.

Librería Mas Puro Verso

A personal favourite of ours was Librería Mas Puro Verso, a grand bookshop near Plaza Independencia. Housed in a beautifully restored building with marble staircases and stained-glass windows, the shop boasts first editions of Latin American literary giants. This spot is a must for any lover of literature.  Inside, a quaint coffee shop serves strong espresso and pastries, making it a perfect retreat for book lovers to linger and sample the atmosphere.  While not on the scale of the El Arteneo Grand Splendid in Buenos Aires, nevertheless, this bookstore must rank as one the most aesthetically pleasing bookstores in Latin America.

Librería Mas Puro Verso

The Old City and Street Art

In the Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s colonial charm is immediately evident, though the city is undergoing significant transformation. The pedestrianisation of some streets and the proliferation of boutique shops and cafés are slowly reclaiming the crumbling colonial façades. Street art is also abundant here, from ad hoc murals to the large-scale Mural del Dique Maua by Ricardo Yates, painted with help from local school children.

Street Art, Montevideo

Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral and Surrounding Plazas

The Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral, dating back to 1790, stands at the heart of Plaza Matriz, the city’s oldest square. This imposing neoclassical structure houses ornate religious relics and serves as the main Catholic church in the country. Nearby, Plaza Zabala, named after Montevideo’s founder Bruno Mauricio de Zabala, offers a peaceful green escape amid the historic streets.

Montevideo Metropolitan Cathedral, Plaza Zabala and Palacio Legislativo

Palacio Legislativo

Another significant structure is the neoclassical Palacio Legislativo, Uruguay’s parliament building. Built with various types of local marble, the building exemplifies the country’s democratic strength. Uruguay is one of the most politically stable nations in Latin America, and its long-standing commitment to democracy—save for a brief interruption between 1973 and 1985—is represented in this imposing structure. What’s especially unique is the public gym equipment available on the grounds of the parliament—a testament to the accessibility of public spaces in Uruguay.

Mercado del Puerto and Parrilladas

Montevideo’s Mercado del Puerto is a food lover’s paradise, particularly if you enjoy a traditional Uruguayan barbecue, or parrillada. Located near the port, this old market building has been transformed into a bustling centre of culinary activity, featuring around ten parrilladas serving various meats slow cooked over glowing embers. The sight of lamb, beef, and chicken sizzling over wood-fired grills, combined with the lively atmosphere, makes this a memorable experience.  A particular favourite of ours was the Cabaña Veronica, where the grillardins must have sweated bucket loads under the intense heat of the parrillada and the smells of the cooking meat and also vegetables drawing in the punters.  A particularly memorable sensation was the cooking of sweet potatoes where the grillardin then poured sugar onto the hot potato and then caramelised it with his meat slice.  Subsequent to our first visit, this parrillada was seen on BBC’s 2024 Race Across the World.

We returned to Cabaña Veronica in 2025 and chose to eat early at around midday before the mad scrum of visitors, especially those off cruise ships that dock across the road and spill out hundreds of visitors each day, while the ships themselves completely dominate Montevideo’s low-rise skyline.  Diners can sit at the bar and have a front row view of the grillardins hard at work and providing a unique Uruguayan theatre.

While Montevideo’s culinary scene is heavily centred on its parrillada tradition, there’s also a growing wine culture. Uruguay’s signature wine is Tannat, a robust red grape variety originally from the Basque region. Less well-known than Argentina’s Malbec or Chile’s Carménère, Tannat is gaining recognition for its quality and pairs perfectly with Uruguay’s barbecued meats. 

In Punta Carretas, we discovered La Pulpería, an intimate parrillada that was more relaxed than the bustling Mercado del Puerto and rated as one of Montevideo’s top restaurants.  For a more formal meal in Punta Carretas we also dined at Garcia Restaurant, a renowned steakhouse offering premium cuts of meat and excellent service.

Also, back in 2018 we went to Boca Negra, a wine bar where we could sample various Uruguayan wines via a card-activated dispenser, however sadly in 2025 the wine bar was no longer there.

Dining in Punta Carretas

In addition to the steak and wine scene, Montevideo also has its fair share of microbreweries and in Punta Carretas there is the Montevideo Beer Company, located in a modern building, serving a large variety of locally brewed beers.

Final Thoughts
Montevideo encapsulates Uruguay’s balance of tradition and progress. From its colonial heart at Plaza Independencia to the modern vibe in Punta Carretas, the city offers visitors a unique blend of history, culture, and cuisine, all framed by the Río de la Plata’s breezy coastline. Whether you’re exploring its rich street art scene or sampling prime cuts of meat at a parrillada, Montevideo is a capital that offers something for everyone.

Date: 21/02/2018 to 25/02/2018 and 18/02/2025 to 20/02/2025