Overview
Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital and largest city, is home to nearly 1.4 million people, making it a lively hub in this relatively small South American nation. The city, stretching along the Río de la Plata, is renowned for its blend of colonial history, progressive social policies, and rich cultural life. As the country’s political, cultural, and economic heart, Montevideo presents a mix of modernity and tradition, from bustling shopping malls to historic colonial plazas.

Geography and Climate
Montevideo sits on the southern coast of Uruguay along the Río de la Plata, a wide estuary that separates the city from Argentina. The city’s terrain is relatively flat, with gently undulating hills surrounding it. Montevideo’s coastal location offers a mild climate, with summer temperatures averaging 28°C (82°F) and winter temperatures around 10°C (50°F). The city’s temperate climate makes it an attractive destination year-round, though its beaches are especially popular in the summer months.

History
Montevideo’s origins can be traced back to the early 18th century when it was founded by Spanish settlers as a strategic military outpost. The city has grown significantly since its colonial days, playing a central role in Uruguay’s independence from both Spain and its neighbouring giant, Brazil. Montevideo has also been a beacon of democratic stability in Latin America, except for a military dictatorship period from 1973 to 1985. Today, the city reflects Uruguay’s progressive character with legalised same-sex marriage, cannabis use, and one of the highest literacy rates in the region.

Arrival in the City
We arrived in Montevideo on a rainy day from Punta del Este, travelling by bus through the largely unseen countryside. The bus arrived at Tres Cruces, a busy and modern transport hub located beneath a shopping mall. The shopping centre, filled with international brands and throngs of shoppers, reflects Uruguay’s economic vitality. Unlike the UK, there is no plastic bag tax here, meaning bags are still freely handed out in shops—a small reminder that while progressive, Uruguay continues its journey toward environmental reform.

Our hotel, BIT Design Hotel, was situated in Punta Carretas, a chic, residential area in the south of the city, replete with shopping malls, upscale restaurants, and a park with a golf course. From here, it’s clear that certain parts of Montevideo mirror the quality of life seen in mid-tier European countries, with a visible middle-class presence and a high standard of living.

Key Sites

The Old City and Street Art
On our second day, we took a local bus into the Ciudad Vieja (Old Town), the historical heart of Montevideo. Buses here are simple yet efficient, with conductors seated among the passengers—an indicator of the city’s safety, as there’s no need to hide the cash tray from view. Montevideo feels secure and doesn’t carry the latent tension felt in parts of Brazil.

In the Ciudad Vieja, Montevideo’s colonial charm is immediately evident, though the city is undergoing significant transformation. The pedestrianisation of some streets and the proliferation of boutique shops and cafés are slowly reclaiming the crumbling colonial façades. Street art is also abundant here, from ad hoc murals to the large-scale Mural del Dique Maua by Ricardo Yates, painted with help from local school children.

Librería Mas Puro Verso
A personal favourite was Librería Mas Puro Verso, a grand bookshop near Plaza Independencia. Housed in a beautifully restored building with marble staircases and stained-glass windows, the shop boasts first editions of Latin American literary giants. This spot is a must for any lover of literature.

Plaza Independencia
The Plaza Independencia serves as the heart of Montevideo and a gateway between the Old City and the newer downtown district. Historically, the site marked the edge of the Spanish citadel, with some remnants of the fort still visible. Dominating the plaza is the statue of José Gervasio Artigas, the Uruguayan independence hero, whose mausoleum lies beneath the square.

Palacio Salvo
One of Montevideo’s most iconic landmarks is Palacio Salvo, a curious art deco building with a distinctive tower, completed in 1929. For many, its stumpy, slightly awkward form encapsulates the city’s quirky charm.

Palacio Legislativo
Another significant structure is the neoclassical Palacio Legislativo, Uruguay’s parliament building. Built with various types of local marble, the building exemplifies the country’s democratic strength. Uruguay is one of the most politically stable nations in Latin America, and its long-standing commitment to democracy—save for a brief interruption between 1973 and 1985—is represented in this imposing structure. What’s especially unique is the public gym equipment available on the grounds of the parliament—a testament to the accessibility of public spaces in Uruguay.

Mercado del Puerto and Parrilladas
Montevideo’s Mercado del Puerto is a food lover’s paradise, particularly if you enjoy a traditional Uruguayan barbecue, or parrillada. Located near the port, this old market building has been transformed into a bustling centre of culinary activity, featuring around ten parrilladas serving various meats slow cooked over glowing embers. The sight of lamb, beef, and chicken sizzling over wood-fired grills, combined with the lively atmosphere, makes this a memorable experience.  A particular favourite of ours was the Cabaña Veronica, where the grillardins must have sweated bucket loads under the intense heat of the parrillada and the smells of the cooking meat and also vegetables drawing in the punters.  A particularly memorable sensation was the cooking of sweet potatoes where the grillardin then poured sugar onto the hot potato and then caramelised it with his meat slice.  Subsequent to our visit, this parrillada was seen on BBC’s 2024 Celebrity Race Across the World.

While Montevideo’s culinary scene is heavily centred on its parrillada tradition, there’s also a growing wine culture. Uruguay’s signature wine is Tannat, a robust red grape variety originally from the Basque region. Less well-known than Argentina’s Malbec or Chile’s Carménère, Tannat is gaining recognition for its quality and pairs perfectly with Uruguay’s barbecued meats. In Punta Carretas, we discovered La Pulpería, an intimate parrillada that was more relaxed than the bustling Mercado del Puerto, and Boca Negra, a wine bar where we could sample various Uruguayan wines via a card-activated dispenser.

Final Thoughts
Montevideo encapsulates Uruguay’s balance of tradition and progress. From its colonial heart at Plaza Independencia to the modern vibe in Punta Carretas, the city offers visitors a unique blend of history, culture, and cuisine, all framed by the Río de la Plata’s breezy coastline. Whether you’re exploring its rich street art scene or sampling prime cuts of meat at a parrillada, Montevideo is a capital that offers something for everyone.

Date: 21/02/2018 to 25/02/2018