Our journey around Southern Brazil was completed in Porto Alegre a prosperous city of 1.2 million and another of the World Cup Host Cities. Porto Alegre is considered the home of the Brazilian churrascaria, and much of Brazil’s beef exports flow through the city. This trade has given rise to the substantial, grand commercial buildings in the centre that were built on the wealth generated by agricultural exports and related industries. The southern states of Brazil, including Rio Grande do Sul, are some of the most fertile regions in the world, contributing greatly to the country’s economic backbone.

The city is situated on the eastern bank of the Rio Guaíba, which connects to the Lagoa dos Patos (Patos Lagoon). Large ships navigate this lagoon to reach the sea via a narrow channel, making Porto Alegre a vital inland port for exports such as beef and soy.

Central Municipal Market
The Central Municipal Market (Mercado Público Central) is one of the city’s most iconic buildings and serves as the focal point of the city centre. Inside, the market is a bustling place where butchers, fishmongers, and greengrocers compete to offer the highest quality produce. The sheer variety is staggering, with specialist stalls for offal, dried fish, and various other food products.

In the middle of the market, there’s a unique roped-off area where people can leave coins for those in need to collect in a dignified manner, instead of begging on the street. Supervised by security, this system seems to work well, and many restaurants and food shops donate meals, which are distributed in bags to those who need them.

European Influences and Praça da Matriz
Porto Alegre has a distinctly European feel and shares several similarities with its neighbour to the south, Argentina. One prominent example is the presence of mate (chimarrão), a traditional South American tea, in specialist stores in the Central Market. These stores offer an extensive range of mate products and paraphernalia, reflecting the influence of gaucho culture in both Argentina and southern Brazil.

This European influence is also evident in the architecture around Praça da Matriz, the city’s historic square. The Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral Metropolitana de Porto Alegre) stands as one of its most recognisable landmarks, with its grand Neo-Renaissance dome and intricate stained glass. Other notable buildings include the São Pedro Theatre (Theatro São Pedro), the Palácio Piratini (seat of the state government), and the Museu Júlio de Castilhos, all showcasing a mix of classical and colonial architectural styles. These buildings represent Porto Alegre’s cultural and political significance.

Dining at NB Steak House
Being the home of the churrascaria, it was essential for us to visit NB Steak House, one of the top steak restaurants in the city. On our last day, we indulged in their tasting menu, which was a true carnivore’s dream. The selection included British breeds of beef, with cuts ranging from Top Sirloin, Bottom Sirloin, Filet, Ribeye, Beef Ribs, Chorizo, and Rump. They even had their speciality NB Steak. Additionally, we were served lamb, chicken thighs and hearts, pork loin, and pork ribs. The quality of the meat was exceptional, yet beef in Brazil remains surprisingly cheap compared to other meats like chicken. However, it was striking that, despite it being a Saturday night, the cavernous restaurant only had five other occupied tables—there were more staff than customers.

Cultural Sites and Museums
The city’s grand commercial buildings, many of which were once banks, the post office, or port authority buildings, have now been converted into museums of art and history. These beautiful spaces, such as those pictured above, retain their original grandeur and are open to the public, free of charge. It’s an impressive way to repurpose Porto Alegre’s historic architecture.

Like many other South American cities, Porto Alegre’s shopping scene has shifted away from the city centre to modern shopping malls on the outskirts. This change is particularly noticeable on Sundays when most shops and the market in the city centre are closed, making the downtown area feel frozen in time. However, these malls remain bustling with activity, fully open for business and featuring all the conveniences of modern retail.

Moinhos de Vento and Our Stay
During our visit, we stayed in the Moinhos de Vento neighbourhood at the Hotel Laghetto Viverone Moinhos, a modern hotel attached to one of the grand villas that the area is known for. This neighbourhood is one of the most prosperous in Porto Alegre, filled with impressive tree-lined avenues. The tipuana trees that form a canopy over the streets create a naturally cool environment, particularly in the summer when temperatures can climb into the mid-30s. Rua Gonçalo de Carvalho, often dubbed “the most beautiful street in the world”, is a prime example of these green, shaded avenues. While that moniker might be an exaggeration, the towering trees certainly make a lasting impression.

Porto Alegre in World War II
A lesser-known aspect of Porto Alegre’s history is its involvement in World War II. Brazil was the only South American ally to contribute troops to the conflict, and these soldiers were known as the “Smoking Cobras” (Cobras Fumantes). In Parque Farroupilha, a war memorial commemorates their service in the Italian Campaign, with its austere design reminiscent of the work of British architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. It stands as a poignant reminder of Brazil’s contribution to the war effort.

The Taxi Ranks and Final Impressions
As we approached the city from the bus station, we were greeted by a swarm of orange taxis. It made us wonder how the drivers managed to earn a living, as it could take an hour or more to work through the rank. Once you take away their distinctive orange colour, it’s surprising how similar all the taxis look, despite the variety of vehicle makes.

Porto Alegre, with its blend of European influences, grand architecture, and strong agricultural economy, left a lasting impression on us. From the dignified system at the market to the tranquil streets of Moinhos de Vento, the city is a fascinating blend of old and new, providing a distinct flavour of southern Brazil.

Dates: 15/02/2018 to 18/02/2018