Overview
The Dragoman trip finished in Quito with a drive of 191kms from the Ecuadorian Amazon up the foothills to historic Quito, one of the highest cities in the world.
Quito, Ecuador’s capital, is a city steeped in history, perched high in the Andes at an altitude of 2,850 metres. With a dramatic backdrop of volcanic peaks, including Pichincha, its skyline is dominated by colonial-era churches, plazas, and government buildings. Quito was among the first cities to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 due to its remarkably well-preserved historical centre. It represents a fascinating fusion of indigenous and Spanish colonial influences, offering visitors a glimpse into Ecuador’s rich cultural tapestry.
Today, Quito is home to over 2.7 million people, making it Ecuador’s second-largest city after Guayaquil. The city is divided into the historic Old Town (Centro Histórico) and the more modern New Town (La Mariscal), each with its own unique character. While the Old Town offers a glimpse into the city’s colonial past, with cobblestone streets, grand plazas, and well-preserved churches, the New Town is the commercial heart, filled with modern businesses, high-rise condominiums, and vibrant nightlife.
In Quito after the Dragoman trip, we stayed in the Hotel Frente de Piedra II in the New Town, however in subsequent visits we stayed in the very appropriately named Friends Hostel, where the staff went out of their way to make you feel welcome.
View of El Panecillo, Quito
Geography & Climate
Quito’s highland location gives it a subtropical highland climate, with mild temperatures throughout the year. The city’s long and narrow layout follows the contours of a valley, surrounded by towering volcanic peaks, making it a city of stunning vistas. Despite being located near the equator, its high altitude ensures cool mornings, warm afternoons, and chilly evenings. Rain is frequent, especially during the rainy season from October to May, keeping the Andean slopes lush and green.
History: Spanish Conquest, Independence, and the Republic
Before the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, Quito was part of the northern Inca Empire, though its roots go back further to indigenous groups such as the Quitu and Caras. When the Spanish conquistadors, led by Sebastián de Benalcázar, arrived in 1534, they found an Inca city already devastated by internal conflict and Inca resistance. Benalcázar, one of Francisco Pizarro’s trusted lieutenants, played a pivotal role in the conquest of Quito, establishing Spanish control over the region.
During colonial times, Quito became a key centre of administration for the Spanish Empire, blending its indigenous heritage with European influence. The Spanish imposed their rule by destroying most Inca structures and constructing colonial buildings, churches, and monasteries in their place. Indigenous people were subjected to Catholicism, and their ancient temples were replaced by grandiose churches like La Compañía de Jesús. The Spanish control lasted for nearly three centuries until the early 19th century, when movements for independence began sweeping across Latin America.
Quito 1989, Quito 2018
Ecuador’s Fight for Independence
Ecuador’s fight for independence from Spain was part of a larger South American struggle against colonial rule. Quito declared its first call for independence in 1809, an event that earned the city the nickname “Luz de América” (Light of America). However, the rebellion was crushed, and Spanish control was re-established. It wasn’t until 1822, after a series of battles led by Antonio José de Sucre, that Quito was finally liberated. Sucre, one of Simón Bolívar’s key generals, defeated the Spanish forces at the Battle of Pichincha, fought on the slopes of the Pichincha volcano.
This victory paved the way for Ecuador’s inclusion in the newly formed Republic of Gran Colombia., a federation that included present-day Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, and Ecuador. However, the federation was short-lived, largely due to political differences and geographic divisions within the region. In 1830, Ecuador seceded from Gran Colombia to become an independent republic. The influence of Simón Bolívar and Antonio José de Sucre, along with internal pressures for autonomy, shaped the foundation of Ecuador’s early years as an independent nation.
| Key Figures in Quito’s History Sebastián de Benalcázar: As one of the leading conquistadors in the Spanish conquest of Ecuador, Benalcázar is credited with founding Quito on the ruins of the Inca city in 1534. His expeditions were instrumental in expanding Spanish control across the region. Antonio José de Sucre: A Venezuelan general and one of the most prominent figures in Latin American independence movements, Sucre led the forces that defeated the Spanish at the Battle of Pichincha in 1822. This victory was crucial for Quito’s liberation from Spanish rule, and Sucre’s legacy is deeply embedded in the history of Ecuador. Simón Bolívar: Known as “El Libertador,” Bolívar played a critical role in the independence of several South American countries, including Ecuador. While not directly involved in the Battle of Pichincha, Bolívar’s leadership of the independence movement laid the foundation for Ecuador’s liberation. |
Modern Quito
Quito and, more broadly Ecuador with its dollarized economy, has become a magnate for many of the refugees fleeing the chaos that is modern day Venezuela and that has created a level of tension with the local Ecuadoreans who see the Venezuelans undercutting their wages as they are prepared to work for much less pay to simply survive. While Ecuador is poorer than neighbouring Peru and Colombia, the attractiveness of the US dollar as its currency has acted as a magnate for Venezuelan refugees which in turn has created underlying tensions in Ecuador.
Indeed, one of our fellow travellers was mugged in the centre of Quito but, the whole episode was seen by the local undercover police, who caught the suspect, and the same day tried him in front of the courts, which in turn sentenced him to 30 days in jail and a fine of $100. A very impressive and speedy process that would not have been out of place in the Back to the Future movies.
Principal Sites in Quito
Plaza de la Independencia (Plaza Grande)
At the heart of Quito lies Plaza de la Independencia, also known as Plaza Grande. Surrounded by the most important buildings in the city—the Palacio de Carondelet (Presidential Palace), the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, and the Municipal Palace—the plaza is a central meeting point for locals and visitors alike. The plaza has been a witness to major historical events, including Ecuador’s declaration of independence from Spain. A monument in the centre commemorates this achievement, surrounded by well-manicured gardens and palm trees.
La Compañía de Jesús
One of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Latin America, La Compañía de Jesús is renowned for its spectacular gilded interior. Constructed by the Jesuits between 1605 and 1765, the church’s interior is covered in gold leaf, with intricate wood carvings and beautiful frescoes decorating every corner. The exterior, with its carved stone façade, hints at the grandeur inside. It’s considered one of Quito’s most important architectural treasures and reflects the wealth and power of the Catholic Church during the colonial era.
Plaza de la Independencia, Quito
Iglesia de San Francisco
One of Quito’s oldest and most iconic churches, the Iglesia de San Francisco was begun in 1535, just a year after the city’s founding. Its impressive white façade overlooks Plaza de San Francisco, one of the city’s largest public spaces. Inside, visitors can admire a blend of Moorish, Baroque, and indigenous styles, including striking artwork and altarpieces. The adjoining convent houses a museum with an extensive collection of religious art. The church’s importance in Quito’s religious and cultural history cannot be overstated, making it a must-visit site.
Iglesia de San Francisco, Quito
Basílica del Voto Nacional
A Gothic marvel, the Basílica del Voto Nacional stands out on Quito’s skyline. Construction of this monumental structure began in 1892, and although it remains officially unfinished, it is a key architectural highlight of the city. The basilica’s most distinctive feature is its gargoyles, which represent native Ecuadorian animals, including iguanas, armadillos, and Galápagos tortoises. Visitors can climb to the top of its towers for sweeping views of Quito, offering a stunning vantage point over the historic centre and beyond.
El Panecillo & La Virgen de Quito
El Panecillo is a hill that rises to 3,000 metres in the southern part of Quito, providing one of the most spectacular panoramic views of the city and its surrounding landscapes. The walk to the top is steep but rewarding, with the path winding through narrow streets lined with traditional houses. At the summit stands the imposing statue of La Virgen de Quito, a 45-metre aluminium sculpture built in 1976. This winged Virgin Mary, based on a famous 18th-century sculpture, watches over the city. From the top of El Panecillo, visitors can see the sprawling urban landscape of Quito as well as nearby volcanoes, including Cotopaxi and Pichincha.
El Panecillo & La Virgen de Quito
Iglesia Santo Domingo
The Iglesia Santo Domingo, another stunning Baroque church in Quito, holds a special place in the city’s historical and religious landscape. Built in the late 16th century, the church is characterised by its striking interior, with an intricate gold leaf altar and a magnificent central nave adorned with frescoes and religious imagery. The church’s exterior, while more understated than La Compañía or San Francisco, features a large bell tower that looms over the surrounding area. Santo Domingo also houses a museum with an extensive collection of colonial art, including religious paintings and sculptures that reflect Ecuador’s Catholic history. This church, located near the Plaza de Santo Domingo, is a key part of Quito’s UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Iglesia Santo Domingo, Teatro Nacional Sucre, Quito
Around the National Theatre
The area surrounding the National Theatre (Teatro Nacional Sucre) is another culturally significant part of Quito, offering a different vibe compared to the more formal historic sites. Built in the late 19th century, this neoclassical theatre is an architectural masterpiece and remains a centre for the performing arts, hosting concerts, operas, and cultural events.
Calle La Ronda
Calle La Ronda, one of Quito’s oldest streets, which has been beautifully restored. Today, it is a vibrant pedestrianised area full of artisan shops, cafés, and galleries, making it a lively spot in the evenings. This area captures the bohemian spirit of Quito and offers a chance to experience the city’s creative side, while also reflecting the traditional architecture and charm of colonial Quito.
Calle La Ronda
Sound and Light Show in the Old Town
One of the most remarkable experiences during our time in Quito was the sound and light show that took place across much of the Old Town. This event illuminated several of the city’s most iconic churches, including La Compañía de Jesús, San Francisco, and Santo Domingo, with vibrant projections that told the story of Quito’s history and culture. The facades of these grand colonial buildings were bathed in colourful lights, highlighting their intricate details and Baroque architecture. Music and narration accompanied the light displays, creating an immersive experience that brought the city’s rich past to life. The streets were filled with people, both locals and tourists, coming together to watch as Quito’s history unfolded across its most historic buildings. The blend of modern technology with the centuries-old structures made this an unforgettable highlight of our visit.
Day Trips from Quito
Mitad del Mundo (Equator Monument)
Located just 26 kilometres north of Quito, Mitad del Mundo marks the location of the equator. Although modern GPS measurements place the true equatorial line slightly off from the monument, it remains a popular tourist destination. The nearby Intiñan Solar Museum offers fascinating interactive exhibits, where visitors can observe the Coriolis effect and experiment with balancing an egg on a nail. The towering Volcán Cayambe, which sits directly on the equator, acts as a natural marker for this geographical line.
Otavalo Market
A two-hour drive north of Quito leads to the indigenous town of Otavalo, famous for its vibrant handicraft market. While Saturday is the largest and most well-known market day, visitors can find beautiful handwoven textiles, jewellery, and leather goods throughout the week. The Otavalo market is one of the largest in South America, and its products, especially textiles, are known for their quality and traditional designs. The surrounding region is also home to picturesque mountains and valleys, contributing to its appeal as a popular day trip.
Environmental Challenges
Quito, like many Andean cities, faces significant environmental challenges. Its rapid urban growth has led to issues with deforestation, pollution, and the strain on local infrastructure. The city’s position along the Andes also makes it vulnerable to earthquakes, as it lies near a major fault line. Efforts to protect the city’s green spaces and improve waste management are ongoing, but balancing economic growth with environmental preservation remains a key challenge for the future.
Final Thoughts
Quito is a city where history and modernity coexist harmoniously. From its beautifully preserved colonial Old Town to its bustling modern districts, Quito offers visitors a rich and immersive experience. The city’s churches, plazas, and museums transport visitors back to a time when Spanish colonial rule dominated, while its markets and vibrant street life showcase the indigenous and mestizo cultures that continue to shape the city today. With a history marked by conquest, independence, and revolution, Quito remains at the heart of Ecuador’s national identity.
Dates: 04/06/2018 to 05/06/2018, 06/08/2018 to 09/08/2018 and 18/08/2018 to 21/08/2018 – Revised 05/11/2024