There are lots of stories about drunk drivers and other issues on the standard salt flats tours from San Pedro de Atacama to Uyuni. After much research, we chose Cruz Andina, which had better reviews on TripAdvisor. Their service was professional and well-organised, with excellent food and safe driving throughout.  The tour arranged overnight stays in hostels / refuges and food throughout and our driver Richard was particularly impressive.

The journey starts with a pickup from our hostel for the 45 kilometres to the border at Hito Cajón. The border is at 4,480 metres, so there’s a quick climb of 2,000 metres from San Pedro to altitudes where much of the next few weeks would be spent. The Chilean side of the border consists of a sealed metal hangar that only lets one or two vehicles through at a time, with the usual lengthy Chilean formalities even just to exit the country. A few kilometres up the road on the Bolivian side, however, you’re greeted by a collection of old shacks where crossing is much quicker. Once in Bolivia, we transferred into 4X4 Toyota Land Cruisers for the three-day adventure ahead.

The border crossing is nestled in the foothills of Volcán Licancabur(5,920 metres), one of the most striking volcanoes visible from both San Pedro de Atacama and the high-altitude plains of Bolivia. Its conical form and majestic presence marked the beginning of our incredible journey through some of the most remote and otherworldly landscapes in South America.

Bolivian border crossing

Geography and Climate
The geography of this region is characterised by extreme altitudes and rugged volcanic terrain. Located on the Altiplano, a vast high plateau that stretches across Bolivia and into Peru, Chile, and Argentina, the Eduardo Avaroa National Reserve sits between 4,200 and 5,400 metres above sea level. This elevated region experiences harsh desert-like conditions, with temperatures dropping below freezing at night and soaring during the day. The dry air and lack of vegetation create a barren, almost alien environment, where the landscape appears to stretch out endlessly beneath clear blue skies.

In addition to the imposing Volcán Licancabur (5,920 metres / 19,423 feet), one of the most iconic sights in the region, with its near-perfect cone visible for miles. Other significant peaks in the area include Volcán Ollagüe (5,868 metres / 19,252 feet), a semi-active volcano that straddles the Chilean and Bolivian borders, and the distinctive Volcán Pabellón (5,716 metres / 18,753 feet), which towers over Laguna Colorada.

Laguna Colorada and Volcán Pabellón

History and Economics
The area around Uyuni and the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve has a history rooted in mining and pre-Columbian trade routes. The Altiplano was home to ancient civilisations, including the Tiwanaku and later the Incas, who crossed these desolate plains to access valuable salt and minerals. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, the Uyuni region became a centre for Bolivia’s mining industry, with the extraction of silver and other minerals playing a crucial role in the local economy. However, much of this industry has since declined, leaving behind ghost towns and the famous train graveyard outside Uyuni.

Today, tourism has become a vital part of the economy. Visitors flock to the region for the unique landscapes, wildlife, and otherworldly experiences offered by the salt flats and surrounding reserves. The boom in tourism has brought economic growth but has also raised concerns about environmental sustainability, as the impact of high visitor numbers is becoming increasingly evident.

Local Products and Cuisine
The Altiplano’s extreme conditions make large-scale agriculture nearly impossible, but locals have adapted by cultivating crops suited to the harsh environment. Traditional Andean grains such as quinoa and cañihua are staples of the local diet, while potatoes—originally domesticated in the Andes—are also widely consumed. Llama and alpaca meat are common protein sources, and dishes often feature these meats alongside hearty stews, soups, and roasted vegetables. One of the most typical Bolivian dishes you’ll encounter is sajta de pollo, a spicy chicken stew made with potatoes and Andean spices.

Local drinks often include mate de coca (coca leaf tea), which helps with altitude sickness, and chicha—a fermented beverage made from maize that has been consumed in the Andes for thousands of years.  Coca is also used in a distinctive local beer, which imparts a subtle herbal flavour reminiscent of the Andes. Another staple is the hearty chuño, a freeze-dried potato, a common food for centuries in this extreme climate.

Laguna Blanca

Principal Sites
Our first destination after crossing the Bolivian border was Laguna Blanca, a partially frozen lake framed by volcanoes. The sight of this shimmering white lake, surrounded by the dramatic landscape, was breathtaking. Immediately after, we arrived at Laguna Verde, famous for its striking emerald colour caused by the suspension of minerals in the water. Though not as vibrant as it could be during our visit, its backdrop of towering volcanoes still made it an unforgettable sight.

Continuing the journey, we entered the Desierto Salvador Dalí, named for its resemblance to the surrealist painter’s works. Here, bizarre rock formations stand out against the flat desert floor, with mountains painted in hues of yellow, orange, and brown creating an extraordinary scene.

Desierto Salvador Dalí

Next, we climbed to over 5,000 metres to visit the Sol de Mañana Geysers, a geothermal field bubbling with boiling mud and steaming vents. The altitude here is dizzying, higher than Europe’s tallest mountain, Mont Blanc.

The day’s final stop was Laguna Colorada, a brilliant red lake due to algae suspended in the water. The lake is home to large flocks of flamingos, including the rare James’s Flamingo. The contrast between the deep red waters, white borax deposits, and pink flamingos creates a scene of natural beauty like no other.

Sol de Mañana Geysers

Wildlife & Cultural Significance
The local fauna is as varied as the landscape itself. The presence of llamas, with their multicoloured wool, is a testament to centuries of domestication. Llamas (lama glama) were selectively bred for their adaptability, strength, and variety of wool, which explains the different colours they sport today. In contrast, their wild relatives, vicuñas (Vicugna vicugna), remain a uniform tan or beige colour, a natural camouflage that aids their survival in the wild. Vicuñas are also known for their extremely fine and valuable wool, which has been coveted since the Incan era.

In addition to llamas and vicuñas, the high-altitude plains are home to the viscacha, a rabbit-like rodent, and the Andean fox (lycalopex culpaeus). Large hares dart across the rocks, and the occasional taruca (an Andean deer) can be spotted on the higher slopes. Birds, beyond the flamingos, include a variety of migratory species such as Andean geese and puna ibis.

Throughout the region, one can also find small towers of stones known as apachetas. These small piles are left by locals and visitors alike as offerings to Pachamama (Mother Earth), a tradition that has roots in pre-Inca spirituality and remains a powerful symbol of gratitude and reverence for the land. Many travellers leave stones at key points as a means of asking for protection during their journeys through the harsh Andean terrain.

Flamingos of Laguna Colorada
Laguna Colorada is one of the region’s most stunning attractions, a deep red lake due to algae that thrive in its saline waters. The lake is home to three species of flamingo:

• James’s Flamingo (phoenicoparrus james), the rarest and smallest, with a distinctive pink-and-red streaked body and a shorter, more delicate beak.
• Andean Flamingo (phoenicoparrus andinus), the largest of the species, with pale pink plumage and black flight feathers.
• Chilean Flamingo (phoenicopterus chilensis), the most common, characterised by a slightly greyer body and pinker legs than its cousins.

All three species feed primarily on brine shrimp and algae, the red colouring of the lake aiding their distinctive pink hue. James’s Flamingo, specifically, has a more specialised diet, focusing on smaller algae than the others, which explains its more delicate size.

Salar de Uyuni

Salar de Uyuni
On the third day, we reached the Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat in the world, spanning 10,582 square kilometres at an altitude of 3,656 metres. The flat, white surface stretches out endlessly, with the bright sun reflecting off the salt crust, creating a landscape that feels otherworldly. This expanse of salt was once part of a prehistoric lake that evaporated, leaving behind the thick crust of salt we see today.

Our visit included a stop at Isla Incahuasi, a rocky island in the middle of the salt flats covered in giant cacti. At the summit of the island, we found an altar dedicated to Pachamama, the Inca earth goddess, highlighting the region’s deep spiritual ties to the natural world.

Following the island visit, we joined in the tradition of taking fun, perspective-bending photos on the salt flats, playing with the flat landscape to create optical illusions.

Post-Industrial Decline: Julaca and the Train Graveyard
Our journey also passed through Julaca, an eerie settlement once supported by the local mining industry, now a ghost town. The railway lines once serviced the mines, but today only rusting engines and empty railway cars remain, a stark reminder of Bolivia’s boom-and-bust history with mineral extraction.

Julaca

Before arriving in Uyuni, we visited the eerie Cementerio de Trenes (train graveyard), a collection of rusting locomotives left to decay after the collapse of the mining industry. These relics of Bolivia’s industrial past stand in stark contrast to the natural beauty of the salt flats, a poignant reminder of the region’s changing fortunes over the centuries.

Cementerio de Trenes

Final Thoughts
Our adventure through the Salar de Uyuni and the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve offered a surreal, awe-inspiring experience, one where the stark beauty of Bolivia’s high-altitude desert landscapes came to life. Between the flamingos, eroded rock formations, and the haunting remnants of Bolivia’s industrial past, the trip offered something new and unexpected at every turn.

Dates: 04/05/2018 to 06/05/2018