Our final destination in this leg of our Dragoman journey up Patagonia in Argentina, San Carlos de Bariloche, felt like arriving in a different country altogether, so dramatic was the change in landscape. After three days of driving through Patagonia’s open plains and semi-arid steppe, Bariloche’s alpine forests, mountain lakes, and picturesque town with its Swiss-inspired architecture felt like a world apart, with a distinct Alpine feel, including an obsession for chocolate, together with its associated wealth when compared to Patagonia through which we had just travelled.

In Bariloche we stayed at the Hostal Los Troncos conveniently situated near the lake and a short walk to the centre of town, with bus routes easily accessible  to key destinations like Cerro Campanario.

Lago Nahuel Huapi, San Carlos de Bariloche, Rio Negro Province, Argentina

San Carlos de Bariloche is located in the Río Negro province, in the foothills of the Andes within the Argentinian Lake District. Nestled on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi, the town is surrounded by snow-capped mountains, dense forests, and a network of glacial lakes. This geography makes Bariloche a key destination for both summer and winter tourism, offering trekking, mountaineering, and skiing. The town sits at an altitude of around 770 metres (2,500 feet), which gives it a temperate mountain climate with cold winters and mild summers. Winter temperatures often drop below freezing, with regular snowfall, while summers are cooler compared to the arid steppe regions further south. The forests surrounding Bariloche consist of Southern Beech and other Andean trees, adding to the region’s lush, verdant landscape.

Bariloche has a fascinating and complex history. Originally inhabited by the Mapuche and other indigenous groups, the region was later settled by Europeans in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The town itself was founded in 1902 by Carlos Wiederhold, a Chilean of German descent, and has since become a major hub for tourism and commerce. In the 1930s, the National Parks Administration was created, and Nahuel Huapi National Park became Argentina’s first national park, protecting the area’s rich biodiversity and drawing tourists from around the world.

Bariloche has also seen waves of immigration, particularly from Europe, which has influenced the architecture, cuisine, and culture. The town’s Alpine aesthetic, with its wooden chalets and stone houses, reflects the influence of Swiss and German settlers. Today, Bariloche has a population of around 130,000 people, making it one of the largest towns in the Patagonian Andes. The town’s economy is strongly linked to tourism, but there is also a growing craft beer industry, and, famously, chocolate production, particularly around Easter when the town’s obsession with chocolate reaches its peak.

Easter at San Carlos de Bariloche, Rio Negro Province, Argentina

Bariloche’s Chocolate Obsession
The big industry in Bariloche, apart from servicing the tourism industry during the summer for trekking and the winter for skiing, is chocolate. Bariloche has earned its reputation as Argentina’s chocolate capital, with numerous chocolate shops lining the town’s streets. The arrival of Easter provided the perfect excuse to celebrate the town’s connection to chocolate. On Good Friday during our visit, Bariloche attempted to break the record for the world’s longest chocolate bar, stretching down the main street, with festivals and celebrations throughout the town. Children donned rabbit ears as part of the festivities, with the chocolate shops competing for attention. Whether the record was broken or not, the town was abuzz with the festivities.

Easter Celebrations and Craft Beer Culture
The town square, Plaza Mayor, by the Town Hall, featured a wooden hut where children could meet the Easter Bunny. On Holy Saturday, a free concert filled the square, playing English-style rock music, which remains one of the most popular music genres in Argentina. The Easter festivities were complemented by Bariloche’s other growing industry: craft beer. In recent years, Bariloche has developed a strong reputation for artisanal breweries. Many of the town’s bars serve a wide range of ales, often inspired by English, American, or Germanic styles, rivalling the craft beers found in Europe.

Chimi Bar, Bariloche, Argentina

Natural Beauty of Bariloche
Beyond its festive atmosphere, Bariloche is surrounded by some of Argentina’s most spectacular natural scenery. The Lakes District is renowned for its stunning vistas, none more impressive than those from Cerro Campanario, a nearby peak that offers panoramic views over the surrounding lakes and mountains. The 500-metre climb to the summit was unexpectedly challenging, with steep sections and numerous tree roots to navigate, but the 360-degree view of Lago Nahuel Huapi, Lago Moreno, and the snow-capped Andes was worth the effort. The deep blue of the lakes, framed by the green forests and towering mountains, made this one of the most picturesque places we had visited in Argentina.

Bariloche’s Darker History
Though today Bariloche is a vibrant, festive town, it also has a darker chapter in its history. Following World War II, the town became a haven for Nazi war criminals, who fled Europe to hide in remote locations across South America. The most infamous case is that of Erich Priebke, a Nazi war criminal who was captured in Bariloche in the 1990s. While the town’s association with this dark period is rarely mentioned in its tourist brochures, it remains a part of Bariloche’s complex past.

Catedral Nuestra Señora del Nahuel Huapi, San Carlos de Bariloche, Rio Negro Province, Argentina

Final Thoughts
Bariloche’s combination of Alpine charm, rich history, and natural beauty makes it a unique destination in Argentina’s Patagonian region. Whether it’s celebrating Easter with chocolate festivals, sampling local craft beers, or trekking through the picturesque Lakes District, Bariloche offers something for every traveller. As we left Bariloche, we couldn’t help but be impressed by the town’s ability to blend European and Argentinian cultures, while remaining deeply connected to the stunning landscapes that surround it.

Bariloche, Argentina

Dates: 29/03/2018 to 01/04/2018 Dragoman Days 26 to 29