We left Argentina for the last time (the 10th time we’ve crossed into and out of Argentina on this journey) by public bus for the 597km journey to San Pedro de Atacama, crossing the border into Chile at the Paso de Jama Mountain Pass, an incredible journey through the Andes. At 4,200 metres above sea level, the border post itself sits on high ground, but the road reaches even higher – a staggering 4,810 metres, making this a rapid introduction to the high altitudes that would follow.
San Pedro de Atacama, at a mere 2,400 metres, is a small oasis in the middle of the Atacama Desert. From afar, the dusty greens of its vegetation contrast dramatically with the reds, yellows, and browns of the surrounding desert. But this verdant appearance is somewhat deceptive, as the desert’s dust infiltrates the town, a constant reminder of the harsh conditions outside its relative sanctuary.
Today, San Pedro exists primarily as a hub for tourists, firmly planted on the “gringo trail.” While tourism impacts many parts of Argentina and Chile, the influx here is particularly pronounced. The town’s adobe buildings and reddish-brown colouring evoke a strong sense of place, making it feel as if the desert is built into every wall and structure. In San Pedro we stayed at the Quechua Hotel, close to the main bus station.
Paso Jama, San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
Geography and Climate
The Atacama Desert is renowned as the driest non-polar desert in the world, with areas receiving less than 1 mm of rain annually. San Pedro, sitting in the basin of this arid land, experiences stark temperature fluctuations, with hot days and cold nights. The town benefits from its location near an ancient riverbed, which provides the vital water source for the desert oasis.
The region is dominated by the towering Andes Mountains and volcanic peaks, with several major volcanoes forming an impressive skyline. Volcán Licancabur (5,920 m), with its perfectly conical shape, stands out as the most recognisable. Its shadow looms large over San Pedro, and the colours of its slopes change dramatically with the movement of the sun. The area is also home to Volcán Láscar (5,592 m), one of the most active volcanoes in the region, and Volcán Sairecabur (5,971 m), all part of the string of Andean giants that mark the Chilean Bolivian border.
Volcán Licancabur
Altitude and Its Impact
While San Pedro itself is not as high as some Andean towns, many of the sites surrounding it soar above 3,500 metres. Visitors often find themselves ascending to these dizzying heights, and the effects of altitude are palpable. Even seasoned travellers must contend with symptoms like shortness of breath, headaches, and fatigue, as oxygen levels drop at such elevations. Many visitors acclimatise in San Pedro before venturing higher, which in our case was to cross over next to the Bolivian altiplano. Local remedies such as coca leaf tea are commonly used to alleviate altitude sickness.
Cultural and Historical Overview
Historically, San Pedro was an important centre for the Atacameño people (also known as the Lickan Antay), a group of indigenous people who settled in the desert thousands of years ago. Their cultural heritage is still visible today, with traditional crafts and foods contributing to the region’s economy. The desert’s strategic position also made it a valuable crossroads for various empires, including the Incas.
The economy today revolves primarily around tourism, but San Pedro retains a link to its agricultural roots. Visitors can sample locally produced goods, such as goat cheese, quinoa, and chañar, a fruit that has been harvested here for centuries. Additionally, small-scale farming continues on the periphery of the desert, with local markets selling fresh produce despite the inhospitable conditions.
Tres Marías, Garganta del Diablo, Valle de la Luna
Principal Sites in San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro is known for its natural and celestial beauty. The Valle de la Luna is one of the most famous sites, resembling a lunar landscape with jagged rocks and wind-swept formations. Among the most iconic of these formations are the Tres Marías, three eroded rock figures. Unfortunately, one was damaged by a tourist, which underscores the fragility of this ancient landscape.
Valle de la Luna
Nearby, the Valle de la Muerte is another breathtaking landscape, with towering dunes and wind-eroded rock formations. The valley’s name translates to “Valley of Death,” a reference to its lifeless appearance, though it is now a popular spot for sandboarding.
Valle de la Muerte
San Pedro’s clear, high-altitude skies have made it one of the best places in the world for stargazing. The ALMA Observatory, perched high in the Atacama, houses one of the most powerful radio telescopes on the planet.
During our stay, we enjoyed a night of astro-tourism, always a big draw of San Pedro, where we observed the Milky Way, Southern Cross, and Great Bear. Particularly striking were the stars in Orion’s belt, the red star Betelgeuse in Orion, and Antares, Scorpio’s heart. Jupiter and its Galilean Moons also shone brightly in the dark sky, a testament to the clarity of this region’s air.
For those willing to venture beyond San Pedro, the surrounding landscape offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the world. One such place is the Salar de Atacama, a vast salt flat surrounded by distant volcanoes and snow-capped peaks. The salt crust reflects the intense light of the desert sun, creating an otherworldly, white landscape that extends to the horizon. The nearby Laguna Chaxa is home to flamingos, whose pink feathers stand out against the stark white of the salt.
Another highlight is El Tatio, a geothermal field of geysers located over 4,300 metres above sea level. Visiting El Tatio is best done at sunrise, when the geysers are at their most active. Steam rises from the ground in plumes, creating a mystical, almost alien atmosphere in the cold early morning air.
Final Thoughts
San Pedro de Atacama presents a captivating blend of natural wonders, cultural heritage, and awe-inspiring landscapes. Despite the harsh desert climate, it offers a rich, unforgettable experience, from high-altitude adventures to stargazing under pristine skies. It’s a journey that truly immerses you in the world’s driest desert, surrounded by breathtaking scenery and timeless Atacameño culture.
Dates: 01/05/2018 to 04/05/2018 (Revised 02/11/2024)