Santiago, Chile’s vibrant capital city, is home to nearly seven million people, representing almost 40% of the nation’s population.  Santiago’s location at the heart of Chile, within the Central Valley (Valle Central) of Chile places it between the Andes to the east and the Coastal Range (Cordillera de la Costa) to the west. The surrounding mountains contribute to Santiago’s geographical beauty, but also shield the city from the Pacific Ocean to the west, and trap pollution, contributing to a persistent haze. This issue is exacerbated by the emissions from the motor vehicles and industrial activity that drive Chile’s economic engine. The Mapocho River runs through the city, though it has long been heavily polluted.

The city’s climate is Mediterranean, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperatures in the summer can climb to the mid-30s Celsius, while in winter they average between 8-15°C. The pollution, however, remains one of the city’s main environmental challenges. Autumn, the time of our visit, was particularly beautiful with the trees shifting into hues of red and yellow. The surrounding mountains often remain snow-capped in winter, providing nearby ski resorts such as Valle Nevado with consistent snow.

Cerro San Cristobal 2025 and 2018, Santiago de Chile, Chile

During our 2018 visit we experienced a 6.2 earthquake at 07:19 am, with its epicentre in Punitaqui some 400kms to the North of Santiago.  We felt the high rise building we were in vibrate and move, but Chilean building standards generally are of high standards that that they treat earthquakes like this as nothing to get worried about.

History and Economy

The development of Santiago de Chile began in 1541 with the founding of Santiago del Nuevo Extremo by Pedro de Valdivia. The settlement was established in the Mapocho Valley, an area chosen for its fertile land and defensible location. The Plaza de Armas became the heart of the city, following the Spanish colonial practice of organising towns around a central square. The plaza was surrounded by essential institutions, including the church, the royal audience, and residences of Spanish officials, symbolising the authority and structure of the Spanish Crown.

The first dwellings were simple structures made from local materials such as adobe, wood, and straw. Surrounding the plaza, the streets were laid out in a grid pattern, a hallmark of Spanish colonial urban planning, with straight, wide roads radiating from the square. Early Santiago faced constant challenges, including a lack of resources, extreme weather, and tensions with the Picunche people, the indigenous inhabitants of the region.

In September 1541, less than a year after its founding, Santiago was almost entirely destroyed in an attack led by Michimalonco, a Picunche leader who sought to expel the Spanish settlers. The indigenous warriors set fire to the city, leaving only a few buildings standing. However, Valdivia and his followers managed to repel the attack and began the arduous task of rebuilding. The settlers constructed new, sturdier homes and fortifications to protect against future assaults.

As Santiago grew, the Plaza de Armas remained the focal point of civic and social life. Over time, it was surrounded by more permanent structures, including the Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral, which began construction in the late 16th century, and the Governor’s Palace. These buildings reflected the growing importance of the city as the administrative and religious centre of Chile.

Santiago having originally been a colonial outpost, but today it has grown to become one of the most modern and economically powerful cities in Latin America. Its historic centre still preserves much of its colonial architecture, but it has expanded to include modern skyscrapers and sprawling suburbs. Today, Santiago stands as the financial, political, and cultural centre of Chile. It boasts a high standard of living compared to the rest of Latin America and is home to a range of industries, including finance, retail, telecommunications, and education. Its proximity to Chile’s vast copper mines has also made it a key player in global mining.

Chile’s economy, powered largely by copper exports, has helped it weather several financial crises. Santiago is a hub for the mining industry, with many global mining companies headquartered here. The city’s economic strength has helped drive its development into one of the most advanced and stable cities in South America, though this growth has also widened the gap between Santiago and the rest of the country.

Santiago de Chile

Pedro de Valdivia, was a Spanish conquistador born in Extremadura around 1500, a poor region of Spain where many of the conquistadores like Pizzaro came from, and is best known for founding Santiago de Chile in 1541. He was a veteran of battles in Europe, including the Italian Wars, and ventured to the New World seeking wealth and fame.  He arrived in Peru in 1535, where he gained experience under Francisco Pizarro, assisting in consolidating Spanish control over the region. Eager to lead his own expedition, Valdivia obtained permission to conquer and settle lands south of Peru, a region known as Chile, which was sparsely explored and occupied by the fiercely independent Mapuche people. Valdivia’s expedition set out from Cuzco in 1540 with a small party of Spaniards and indigenous allies. The journey was arduous, involving a dangerous crossing of the Atacama Desert and skirmishes with local groups. On 12th February 1541, Valdivia founded the city of Santiago del Nuevo Extremo in the fertile Mapocho Valley, an area inhabited by the Picunche people. The site was strategically chosen due to its abundant water sources, provided by the Mapocho River, and its defensible position near Cerro Santa Lucía. Santiago’s layout followed the traditional Spanish colonial grid plan, centred around the Plaza de Armas. Despite this promising beginning, Valdivia faced significant challenges in establishing Spanish control. Later in 1541, indigenous groups led by Michimalonco attacked Santiago, destroying much of the settlement. Valdivia and his forces managed to rebuild the city, but the incident highlighted the resistance of the indigenous population. Over the years, Valdivia expanded Spanish influence in Chile, although his campaigns were marked by relentless conflict with the Mapuche. His efforts to secure the colony cost him his life in 1553 when he was captured alive and killed during the Battle of Tucapel.  Valdivia was subjected to a brutal death, which, according to some accounts, involved ritual execution as an act of retribution for his role in the exploitation and destruction of Mapuche lands and people. One widely circulated version suggests that Valdivia was forced to drink molten gold, symbolising his greed for wealth—a grim statement from the Mapuche on the consequences of colonial ambition.

Our journey to Santiago

Our most recent journey to Santiago was by air, the geography of the city, where it is effectively in a bowl surrounded by mountains makes for an interesting approach as the airplane navigates around the valleys, with the surrounding mountains above the flightpath.  Arriving in Santiago’s airport, Arturo Merino Benítez International Airport is a relatively efficient affair, though visitoirs have to be aware of the strict biosecurity measures operated by Chile to protect its large agribusiness.  The country is surrounded by the high Andes to the east, and the Atacama Desert to the north so has natural geographic barriers that it protects.

Approach to Santiago Airport, Cumbres Lastarria Hotel

On our previous trip, we had a long 800km 12-hour from the Chilean Lake District to Chile’s capital marked the end of the Dragoman trip, On the drive up to Santiago through Chile’s Central Belt, fields full of agricultural produce, especially vines and fresh fruit, surrounded the modern main highway. Equally impressive was the number of agribusinesses supporting the farmers, which also helps ensure that much of the value-added wealth is also retained in Chile.

We briefly stopped at the Balduzzi Vineyard that produced the full variety of traditional Chilean wines in a picturesque setting. Much of their wine is exported to the US and Asia, very little is currently exported to Europe.

Balduzzi Vineyard, San Javier, Chile

In 2025 we stayed at the Cumbres Lastarria Hotel, a boutique hotel located in the vibrant and artistic Lastarria District of Santiago, Chile. Situated in a charming area filled with cultural and dining experiences, this hotel offers a modern and stylish escape for those seeking a more intimate and upscale stay in the city. Known for its contemporary design, personalised service, and excellent location, Cumbres Lastarria caters to both business and leisure travellers, offering a combination of comfort, sophistication, and a deep connection to the cultural heart of Santiago.

On our previous visit in 2018 we stayed at the Happy House Hostal a well-run hostel, where we said our goodbyes to our fellow travellers after having a final team dinner in a nearby local restaurant.  We then moved into an AirBNB in Barrio Lastarria near to Cerro Santa Lucia, for the rest of our stay in Santiago.  We had a week’s downtime in the AirBNB after our 34 day journey through Patagonia to relax and do various pieces of travel admin such as laundry etc. before embarking on our next independent legs of our journey.

Walking Tours

One of the best ways to explore Santiago is on foot, and the city offers several free walking tours. These tours typically begin in Plaza de Armas and provide an in-depth, local perspective on the city’s key sites, history, and cultural landmarks. Our most recent guide was a young lady who many years before came to Chile from Venezuela.  She had an excellent knowledge of the history of Santiago and provided a number of interesting anecdotes about the city, its history and culture.  

Back in 2018 we had an out-of-work actor who gave us an insightful and often humorous commentary on Santiago’s rich history. Throughout the tour, we were followed by one of the many friendly stray dogs that roam Santiago, another iconic part of the city’s street culture.  In 2025 the number of street dogs had been significantly reduced as part of the ongoing development and clean-up of the city.

Plaza de Armas, Catedral Metropolitana, Salvador Alende and Correo Central Santiago de Chile, Chile

Principal Sites

Plaza de Armas and Metropolitan Cathedral
The Plaza de Armas in Santiago de Chile is a historic and cultural hub, surrounded by notable buildings that trace the city’s evolution from its colonial origins to a modern metropolis. Each structure around the square reflects different phases of Santiago’s development, making the plaza a microcosm of the city’s history.

Located on the western side of the plaza, the Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago is one of the most striking buildings. Construction began in 1748 under the direction of Italian architect Joaquín Toesca, replacing earlier cathedrals destroyed by earthquakes. The cathedral’s neoclassical façade, with its twin towers and intricate carvings, dominates the square. Inside, the richly decorated interior features an ornate altar, marble columns, and intricate wood carvings. The adjoining Archbishop’s Palace adds to its prominence as the religious heart of Santiago.

To the north of the plaza stands the Palacio de la Real Audiencia, built in 1804. This elegant colonial structure served as the seat of the Spanish court of justice during the late colonial period. Today, it houses the Museo Histórico Nacional, offering an extensive collection of artefacts that trace Chile’s history from pre-Columbian times to the modern era. Its arched corridors and central courtyard are classic examples of Spanish colonial architecture.

On the northern side of the square, adjacent to the Real Audiencia, is the Correo Central. Built in 1882 on the site of Pedro de Valdivia’s original residence, this building blends French neoclassical and Second Empire architectural styles. Its elegant façade, with decorative details and a mansard roof, reflects Santiago’s late 19th-century transformation as it sought to modernise and align itself with European tastes.

Plaza de Armas

On the eastern side of the plaza lies the Municipal Building of Santiago, built in 1785. Initially the Cabildo (town hall) during the colonial period, this structure later became the headquarters of the municipal government. The building retains its colonial-era design, with an arched arcade on the ground floor and large windows overlooking the square. Its understated elegance reflects its role in civic life rather than grandeur.

On the southern edge of the plaza is the Portal Fernández Concha, a commercial building constructed in the late 19th century. With its long arcade of shops, cafés, and restaurants, this structure adds a lively, bustling atmosphere to the square. Its architectural style, influenced by neoclassical design, contrasts with the colonial buildings but remains an integral part of the plaza’s dynamic character.

The Plaza de Armas itself is dotted with monuments that enrich its historical significance. At the centre is a bronze statue of Pedro de Valdivia, the city’s founder, on horseback, commemorating his role in establishing Santiago. Another prominent feature is the Fountain of Neptune, a symbol of the Mapocho River that was crucial to the city’s survival and growth.

The Plaza de Armas in Santiago not only reflects the checkerboard layout in its surrounding streets but also in the arrangement of its landscaped interior. The plaza’s design incorporates symmetrical rows of trees, planted in a deliberate grid pattern, which mirrors the colonial checkerboard urban plan. These trees, a mix of native and imported species, provide shade and greenery, creating a serene and welcoming environment for visitors.

The trees are bordered by green-edged beds, neatly arranged into square or rectangular shapes. These bordered beds, along with paved walkways cutting through the plaza at right angles, create a visual effect that resembles a checkerboard when viewed from above. The alternating sections of foliage and open pathways enhance the symmetrical appearance, making the plaza feel orderly and harmonious—a continuation of the urban planning principles established during Santiago’s founding.

La Moneda, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Palacio de La Moneda
A short walk from the Plaza de Armas is the Palacio de La Moneda, commonly referred to as La Moneda, is one of Santiago’s most iconic landmarks. Constructed between 1784 and 1805, it was initially designed by Italian architect Joaquín Toesca to serve as the colonial mint, hence its name, which means “The Mint.” Following Chile’s independence, it became the official seat of the President of Chile in 1845. This neoclassical masterpiece, with its imposing columns and symmetrical façade, stands as a symbol of Chilean governance and history.

This historic building is symbolic of Chile’s complex political history. Most notably, the Moneda was the site of the 1973 military coup led by General Augusto Pinochet, which saw the death of the democratically elected president, Salvador Allende. It is still not known whether he was murdered or committed suicide, but what is clear is that the scars from that coup d’état and the brutal suppression in subsequent days and years have not been fully healed, despite a prosperous economy and Chile’s return to democracy in 1989. The building was heavily bombed during the coup and has since been fully restored and today Allende’s statue stands proud outside the Palacio, but there are no statues to Pinochet the Dictator that overthrew President Allende in Chile.

Original Congresso Nacional and National Theatre, Santiago

Originally located in Santiago, the National Congress of Chile (Congreso Nacional) was moved to Valparaíso in 1990, as a symbolic gesture to decentralise government functions following the end of Pinochet’s military dictatorship. The move reflected a broader commitment to strengthening regional representation and shifting the concentration of political power away from the capital.

The former Congress building in Santiago, located near La Moneda, is an architectural gem. Built in 1876, it is known for its grand Corinthian columns, ornate interiors, and lush gardens. Today, the building hosts various cultural and ceremonial events, while Valparaíso’s purpose-built modern structure now serves as the official seat of the Chilean legislative branch. This relocation marked a significant moment in Chile’s transition to democracy, reinforcing the importance of regional inclusivity in governance.

Other principal churches, Iglesia de la Merced and Iglesia de San Francisco

The Iglesia de la Merced, located near the heart of Santiago, is one of the oldest and most historically significant churches in the city. Originally constructed in 1541, shortly after Santiago’s founding by Pedro de Valdivia, the church was built by the Mercedarian Order to serve the spiritual needs of the early Spanish settlers. However, the original structure was destroyed during a Mapuche attack the same year. It was later rebuilt, with the current iteration dating to 1760.

The church’s architecture reflects a colonial baroque style, with its intricately carved façade, vibrant red and white stucco exterior, and bell tower that dominates the skyline. The interior is adorned with vaulted ceilings, elaborate altars, and a significant collection of religious artefacts. Among its treasures is the revered image of the Virgin of Mercy, brought to Chile by the Mercedarian friars. La Merced also houses a small museum containing religious artefacts, colonial art, and historic documents, including the sword and helmet attributed to Pedro de Valdivia.

Iglesia de la Merced and Iglesia de San Francisco

The Iglesia de San Francisco, located on Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins, is the oldest surviving church in Santiago, with construction beginning in 1586 and completed in 1618. The church, built by the Franciscan Order, has withstood several earthquakes, making it a symbol of resilience and endurance. Over time, it has undergone repairs and modifications, with its iconic baroque bell tower being a 19th-century addition.

The architecture of the San Francisco Church blends colonial and baroque styles. Its thick adobe walls and wooden beams reflect the simplicity of early colonial construction, while the ornate altars and religious artwork within highlight the influence of European baroque traditions. The interior features a series of side chapels, each adorned with religious paintings and statues. One of its most notable treasures is the Virgen del Socorro, a statue of the Virgin Mary brought to Chile by Pedro de Valdivia and venerated as the protector of the city.

Adjoining the church is the Museo Colonial San Francisco, which houses an extensive collection of religious art, including paintings from the colonial period, sculptures, and artifacts. The museum provides valuable insight into the role of the Franciscans in Chile’s history and their contributions to education, culture, and social work.

Cerro Santa Lucía and Cerro San Cristóbal
For panoramic views of the city and the Andes, Santiago offers two primary lookouts. Cerro Santa Lucía, located in the city centre, is a beautifully landscaped hill with sweeping views of the skyline. Its historical significance dates to Pedro de Valdivia’s founding of Santiago, and its scenic beauty makes it a popular spot for both tourists and locals.

Cerro Santa Lucía and Cerro San Cristóbal, Santiago de Chile

Cerro San Cristóbal offers an even loftier perch, reached by a funicular railway that has operated since 1925. At the summit, a colossal statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción watches over the city. From here, you can appreciate not only Santiago’s sprawling urban landscape but also its smog problem, which is particularly visible from this height. Behind Cerro San Cristóbal lies one of the largest urban parks in South America, a place where Santiago’s residents can escape the hustle and bustle.

Stations of the Cross, Cerro San Cristóbal, Santiago de Chile

La Chascona – Pablo Neruda’s House
La Chascona, one of the three homes of Chilean poet and Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda, is located in the bohemian Bellavista neighbourhood of Santiago. This unique and whimsical house reflects Neruda’s eccentric personality, deep love for art, and passion for storytelling. Built in 1953, La Chascona was designed as a private retreat for Neruda and his lover (later wife), Matilde Urrutia, during a time when their relationship was still secret. The house’s name, “La Chascona”, is a term in Chilean Spanish meaning “the tousled-haired woman,” referring affectionately to Urrutia’s distinctive red hair.

La Chascona was conceived as a love nest where Neruda and Urrutia could escape the public eye. The house was designed with the help of Catalan architect Germán Rodríguez Arias, incorporating Neruda’s love of the sea, Chilean culture, and his artistic vision. Its construction mirrors a ship’s architecture, with winding staircases, low ceilings, and windows offering intimate views of the surrounding landscape.

However, the house’s history also includes periods of turmoil. During the military coup of 1973, the house was ransacked by supporters of Augusto Pinochet, and its interior was flooded. Neruda’s death shortly after the coup left La Chascona in a state of neglect until it was restored by the Pablo Neruda Foundation, which now operates it as a museum.

La Chascona

La Chascona is filled with artefacts that reveal Neruda’s eclectic tastes and personal connections. Among its treasures are: 

• Library and Manuscripts: La Chascona preserves parts of Neruda’s personal library, showcasing his literary world and intellectual pursuits.
• Matilde Urrutia’s Portrait: A striking painting by Mexican artist Diego Rivera, which hides a hidden detail—Urrutia’s tousled hair subtly intertwines with Neruda’s profile, symbolising their bond.
• Nautical Collectibles: Reflecting Neruda’s love for the sea, the house features ship figureheads, maps, and other maritime artefacts, lending a playful and adventurous atmosphere to the home.
• Eclectic Furniture and Art: The house is adorned with quirky and colourful furniture, as well as sculptures and paintings from Neruda’s travels around the world.

La Chascona, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Pablo Neruda: Life and Legacy Pablo Neruda (1904–1973), born Ricardo Eliécer Neftalí Reyes Basoalto in Parral, Chile, is celebrated as one of the greatest poets of the 20th century. Known for his passionate and deeply emotive works, Neruda’s poetry spanned themes of love, politics, nature, and human struggle. His literary career began with the widely acclaimed collection Twenty Love Poems and a Song of Despair (Veinte poemas de amor y una canción desesperada, 1924), cementing his reputation as a poet of profound romantic expression. He adopted the pen name Pablo Neruda in honour of Czech poet Jan Neruda. Alongside his literary achievements, Neruda was deeply involved in Chilean politics, serving as a diplomat and senator for the Communist Party, and later becoming a close ally of President Salvador Allende. Neruda’s life was marked by his commitment to social justice and his ability to blend artistry with activism, earning him the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1971. His homes, such as La Chascona in Santiago, reflect his eccentric personality, love for the sea, and passion for collecting curiosities. These residences now serve as museums, offering intimate insights into his life. Neruda’s death in 1973, shortly after the military coup led by Augusto Pinochet, remains controversial, with some suspecting foul play due to his political affiliations. Today, Neruda’s legacy endures through his poetry, which continues to resonate globally, celebrated for its lyricism, humanity, and timeless relevance.

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

The Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, located in the heart of Santiago near the Plaza de Armas, is one of Latin America’s most significant institutions dedicated to the art and culture of the Americas before European colonisation. Founded in 1981 by architect and collector Sergio Larraín García-Moreno, the museum is housed in the historic Palacio de la Real Aduana, an 1805 neoclassical building that elegantly combines colonial charm with modern exhibition spaces. It showcases a remarkable collection spanning more than 10,000 years of history, highlighting the evolution of cultures from early hunter-gatherer societies to the mighty Inca Empire.

The museum’s galleries feature artefacts from over 100 pre-Columbian cultures, including the Maya, Aztec, Moche, and Mapuche. Among the most striking pieces are Moche gold ornaments, such as ceremonial masks and headdresses, which reflect their advanced metalworking techniques and the importance of gold in their rituals. The Maya jade artefacts, known for their exquisite craftsmanship, symbolise status and spirituality in their culture. The Aztec sculptures, carved in basalt and other stone, depict gods, warriors, and mythical creatures, offering insight into the Aztecs’ complex religious beliefs. These artefacts illustrate the cultural and technological advancements of ancient civilisations and their connections through trade, conquest, and shared traditions.

The museum is particularly renowned for its textiles, including pieces from the Paracas culture, which date back more than 2,000 years. These textiles, vibrant and intricately designed, showcase the extraordinary skill of Andean weavers and their deep connection to nature and cosmology. The collection also demonstrates how cultures evolved over millennia, culminating in the Inca Empire, which integrated and adapted the traditions of earlier societies, creating one of the most advanced civilisations of the Americas. With its unparalleled collection and immersive exhibitions, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino offers a fascinating journey through the artistic and cultural achievements of the Americas.

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino

Mercado Central

For a taste of Santiago’s culinary scene, the Mercado Central is the city’s renowned fish market. The grand iron structure, built in the 19th century, is home to stalls selling fresh seafood and numerous restaurants offering traditional Chilean dishes, with a particular focus on seafood. Though some restaurants cater to tourists, those on the perimeter of the market often offer better value.

The Mercado Central de Santiago (Central Market of Santiago) is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, offering a rich taste of Chile’s culinary and cultural history. Opened in 1872, the market is housed in a striking iron structure designed by the renowned French architect Gustave Eiffel, best known for his design of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The building is a stunning example of 19th-century industrial architecture, featuring intricate ironwork and large glass windows that allow light to flood the interior. It’s not only a place for buying fresh food but also a lively social and cultural hub where Santiago’s locals and visitors alike gather to experience the flavours of Chile.

Historically, the Mercado Central was built to replace the older Mercado de la Candelaria, which had been operating in Santiago since the early colonial period. It quickly became a central point for the city’s food distribution, particularly for seafood, which remains one of its most prominent offerings. Over the years, the market has evolved, and while it still retains its traditional charm, it has adapted to modern times with the inclusion of restaurants and shops offering a wide variety of Chilean cuisine.

Today, the market is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. It remains a bustling hub, with seafood stalls offering fresh fish, shellfish, and ceviche, as well as a range of fruits, vegetables, meats, and artisan goods. The market is often regarded as one of the best places in Santiago to sample fresh seafood, with many restaurants surrounding the central market space serving traditional dishes such as machas a la parmesana (razor clams with Parmesan) and ceviche.

Located in the Mercado Central, is the el Galeón Restaurant, which has become an institution, offers a refined yet authentic taste of Chilean seafood cuisine. Established in 1956, Galeón has long been a favourite for both locals and tourists looking for a traditional and high-quality seafood experience. The restaurant’s name, meaning “galleon” in Spanish, is a nod to its maritime theme and reflects the importance of the sea in Chilean cuisine.

The interior of Galeón is warm and inviting, with nautical-themed decorations that evoke the history of Chile’s maritime culture, including wooden ship wheels and maritime paintings. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the restaurant has a loyal following, especially for its fish dishes and seafood platters. Galeón is particularly known for its paila marina (a hearty seafood stew made with fish, shellfish, and a rich broth), ceviche, and a variety of grilled fish, offering diners a taste of Chile’s coastal flavours.

Mercado Central, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Food, Drink, and Culture

Santiago has seen a burgeoning gastronomic scene, with Chilean wine and seafood forming the backbone of many menus. The city’s restaurants often serve fresh ceviche, along with empanadas and traditional stews like cazuela. The wine bars highlight some of the country’s best vintages, including Carmenère, a grape variety almost exclusive to Chile. Local craft beer is also gaining popularity, with breweries like Kross and Guayacán producing high-quality artisanal brews.

Santiago’s nightlife is centred around the districts of Bellavista and Lastarria, where bars, cafes, and clubs line the streets, offering everything from live jazz to reggaeton. Bellavista, in particular, has long been the city’s bohemian quarter, attracting artists, musicians, and poets.

Bellavista is one of Santiago’s most vibrant and eclectic districts, known for its bohemian atmosphere, lively nightlife, and artistic heritage. Located near the base of San Cristóbal Hill, Bellavista is home to a mix of colorful streets, street art, and an eclectic range of cafes, bars, and restaurants. This neighbourhood has long been a hub for artists, musicians, and writers, and its narrow streets are lined with small galleries, craft shops, and boutique stores. It is also home to La Chascona, one of Pablo Neruda’s homes, which adds a literary and cultural flair to the area.

Adjacent to Bellavista, Lastarria is another lively and artistic neighbourhood that blends history, culture, and a growing gastronomic scene. It is often considered one of the trendiest parts of Santiago, with its charming tree-lined streets, colonial architecture, and cultural attractions. The district is home to several museums, including the Museo de Artes Visuales and the Museo de Bellas Artes, offering a rich cultural experience. Lastarria is also known for its independent cinemas, cultural events, and boutique shops.

The area has a more laid-back, sophisticated vibe compared to the lively energy of Bellavista. The Plaza de Lastarria, surrounded by cafes and restaurants, is a popular meeting point for locals and visitors alike. With its artsy charm, cultural events, and gastronomic offerings, Lastarria is an ideal spot for leisurely strolls, enjoying a coffee, or browsing through its art galleries and vintage shops.

Bocanáriz, Liguria, Santiaga

Key Restaurants we tried in Bellavista and Lastarria

1. Liguria
   A classic and beloved Santiago institution, Liguria is a popular restaurant that captures the essence of Chilean dining. With several locations around the city, the Bellavista branch is especially popular for its traditional Chilean dishes served with a contemporary twist. Liguria is known for its vibrant atmosphere and quirky décor, which features murals, old photographs, and other eccentric touches that give it a fun, lively vibe. Its menu boasts a wide range of Chilean specialties, including pastel de choclo, empanadas, and congrio frito (fried conger eel), along with excellent Chilean wines. It’s a great place to try Chilean comfort food in a relaxed yet energetic environment.
2. Bocanáriz
   For wine lovers, Bocanáriz in Lastarria is a must-visit. As one of the best wine bars in Santiago, it offers a carefully curated selection of Chilean wines, with over 300 different labels from various regions of the country. The wine list is complemented by a food menu that pairs perfectly with the wines, offering tapas-style dishes such as cheese plates, charcuterie, and ceviche. The modern and sleek décor of Bocanáriz makes it a perfect spot for wine enthusiasts, whether you’re looking to sample a few glasses or enjoy an extensive wine-tasting experience. The knowledgeable staff is always ready to recommend the perfect wine pairings.
3. Galindo
   For a more traditional, local experience, Galindo in Bellavista offers an authentic taste of Chilean cuisine in a laid-back atmosphere. This restaurant is known for its hearty portions and classic Chilean comfort food. Specialties include mote con huesillos (a traditional Chilean drink made from wheat and dried peaches), humitas (steamed corn dough), and cazuela (a comforting beef or chicken stew). The rustic setting, with its wooden furniture and casual vibe, makes it a perfect place for both locals and visitors to enjoy a warm, satisfying meal.

The Spanish spoken in Santiago, known as Chilean Spanish, is distinct from other Spanish dialects due to its unique pronunciation, vocabulary, and rhythm. A defining characteristic is the frequent omission or softening of the final syllables of words, giving it a rapid and fluid quality that can be challenging for non-native speakers to understand. Additionally, Chilean Spanish is rich in local slang, or “chilenismos”, such as “cachai” (do you understand?) and “po” (a colloquial emphasis word, derived from “pues”). The heavy influence of indigenous Mapudungun and historical borrowing from English and other European languages further sets it apart. Santiago’s urban population, especially younger generations, also tends to innovate with language, blending traditional expressions with modern terms, reflecting the dynamic cultural identity of the city.

The Cost of Living and Youth

In 2025, Santiago continues to grapple with challenges around the cost of living and socio-economic inequality, which have only deepened since 2018. Housing prices have remained high, making Santiago one of the most expensive cities in Latin America, and placing significant financial pressure on young people, particularly students and early-career professionals. Affordable accommodation remains scarce, forcing many to either live with family for longer or seek shared housing arrangements. This economic reality has contributed to a growing sense of frustration among Chile’s youth, exacerbating generational divides in a society still heavily influenced by traditional Catholic values.

These pressures came to a head during the 2019 Estallido Social (Social Outburst), when protests erupted across the country, including mass demonstrations in Santiago. Initially sparked by a rise in public transport fares, the protests grew into a broader movement against inequality and the rising cost of living, highlighting discontent with the country’s economic model and political establishment. Plaza Italia, now commonly referred to as Plaza Dignidad, became the symbolic epicentre of these protests. The demonstrations also demanded a replacement for the 1980 Constitution, a relic of the Pinochet dictatorship, which many saw as perpetuating inequality.

In response to the unrest, Chile held a plebiscite in 2020, where a resounding majority voted to draft a new constitution. However, subsequent efforts to finalise the new charter have faced challenges, reflecting deep divisions within Chilean society. The 2022 draft constitution, which aimed to expand social rights and address indigenous representation, was rejected in a national referendum, highlighting the complexities of reform in a polarised country.

Gabriel Boric, elected as Chile’s youngest president in 2021, rose to prominence during the 2019 protests as a vocal advocate for change. His government has faced the monumental task of navigating these constitutional debates while addressing the economic challenges that continue to fuel discontent. Boric’s presidency has focused on progressive reforms, but resistance from conservative sectors and economic constraints has made implementation difficult. For Santiago’s youth, these broader national struggles mirror their daily realities, as they seek to carve out spaces for autonomy and social connection amid ongoing political and economic uncertainty. The city’s parks and cultural hubs remain vital refuges, offering a sense of freedom and community in an increasingly divided society.

Street Art, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Final Thoughts

Santiago’s allure lies in its harmonious blend of historical depth and modern dynamism. Situated between the mighty Andes and the Pacific, the city’s geography has shaped both its identity and its culture, as explored throughout the guide. From the colonial architecture of the Plaza de Armas to the modern-day vibrancy of districts like Bellavista, Santiago is a city where the old and the new coexist seamlessly. As you wander through the diverse neighbourhoods, from the bohemian streets of Lastarria to the contemporary feel of Vitacura, it’s clear that Santiago is constantly evolving.

Dates: 4/04/2018 to 13/04/2018 – Dragoman Days 32 to 34; and 20/01/2052 to 24/01/2025