Santiago, Chile’s vibrant capital city, is home to nearly seven million people, representing almost 40% of the nation’s population.  Santiago’s location at the heart of Chile, within the Central Valley (Valle Central) of Chile places it between the Andes to the east and the Coastal Range (Cordillera de la Costa) to the west. The surrounding mountains contribute to Santiago’s geographical beauty, but also shield the city from the Pacific Ocean to the west, and trap pollution, contributing to a persistent haze. This issue is exacerbated by the emissions from the motor vehicles and industrial activity that drive Chile’s economic engine. The Mapocho River runs through the city, though it has long been heavily polluted.

The city’s climate is Mediterranean, with warm, dry summers and cool, wet winters. Temperatures in the summer can climb to the mid-30s Celsius, while in winter they average between 8-15°C. The pollution, however, remains one of the city’s main environmental challenges. Autumn, the time of our visit, was particularly beautiful with the trees shifting into hues of red and yellow. The surrounding mountains often remain snow-capped in winter, providing nearby ski resorts such as Valle Nevado with consistent snow.

Cerro San Cristobal, Santiago de Chile, Chile

During our visit we experienced a 6.2 earthquake at 07:19 am, with its epicentre in Punitaqui some 400kms to the North of Santiago.  We felt the high rise building we were in vibrate and move, but Chilean building standards generally are of high standards that that they treat earthquakes like this as nothing to get worried about.

History and Economy

Founded in 1541 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Valdivia, Santiago was originally a colonial outpost, and it has grown to become one of the most modern and economically powerful cities in Latin America. Its historic centre still preserves much of its colonial architecture, but it has expanded to include modern skyscrapers and sprawling suburbs. Today, Santiago stands as the financial, political, and cultural centre of Chile. It boasts a high standard of living compared to the rest of Latin America and is home to a range of industries, including finance, retail, telecommunications, and education. Its proximity to Chile’s vast copper mines has also made it a key player in global mining.

Chile’s economy, powered largely by copper exports, has helped it weather several financial crises. Santiago is a hub for the mining industry, with many global mining companies headquartered here. The city’s economic strength has helped drive its development into one of the most advanced and stable cities in South America, though this growth has also widened the gap between Santiago and the rest of the country.

Santiago de Chile

Our journey to Santiago

The final long 800km 12-hour drive from the Chilean Lake District to Chile’s capital marked the end of the Dragoman trip, On the drive up to Santiago through Chile’s Central Belt, fields full of agricultural produce, especially vines and fresh fruit, surrounded the modern main highway. Equally impressive was the number of agribusinesses supporting the farmers, which also helps ensure that much of the value-added wealth is also retained in Chile.

We briefly stopped at the Balduzzi Vineyard that produced the full variety of traditional Chilean wines in a picturesque setting. Much of their wine is exported to the US and Asia, very little is currently exported to Europe.

Balduzzi Vineyard, San Javier, Chile

At Santiago we stayed at the Happy House Hostal a well-run hostel, where we said our goodbyes to our fellow travellers after having a final team dinner in a nearby local restaurant.  We then moved into an AirBNB in Barrio Lastarria near to Cerro Santa Lucia, for the rest of our stay in Santiago.  We had a week’s downtime in the AirBNB after our 34 day journey through Patagonia to relax and do various pieces of travel admin such as laundry etc. before embarking on our next independent legs of our journey.

Walking Tours

One of the best ways to explore Santiago is on foot, and the city offers several free walking tours. These tours typically begin in Plaza de Armas and provide an in-depth, local perspective on the city’s key sites, history, and cultural landmarks. Our guide was an out-of-work actor who gave us an insightful and often humorous commentary on Santiago’s rich history. Throughout the tour, we were followed by one of the many friendly stray dogs that roam Santiago, another iconic part of the city’s street culture.

Plaza de Armas, Catedral Metropolitana, Salvador Alende and Correo Central Santiago de Chile, Chile

Principal Sites

Plaza de Armas and Metropolitan Cathedral
Santiago’s historical and cultural heart is the Plaza de Armas, where the city’s foundation stone was laid. The square is dominated by the imposing Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), a grand neoclassical structure completed in the 18th century. The cathedral is a must-see, with its Baroque altars and ornate decorations offering a glimpse into the Spanish colonial past.

On the northern side of the square sits the Correo Central (Central Post Office), an elegant structure dating from 1882, built on the site of Santiago’s first Spanish governor’s residence. Next to it is the Municipalidad de Santiago (City Hall), a symbol of the city’s administrative importance.

La Moneda, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Palacio de La Moneda
A short walk from the Plaza de Armas is the Palacio de la Moneda, the presidential palace that was originally constructed as a colonial mint in the 18th century. This historic building is symbolic of Chile’s complex political history. Most notably, the Moneda was the site of the 1973 military coup led by General Augusto Pinochet, which saw the death of the democratically elected president, Salvador Allende. It is still not known whether he was murdered or committed suicide, but what is clear is that the scars from that coup d’état and the brutal suppression in subsequent days and years have not been fully healed, despite a prosperous economy and Chile’s return to democracy in 1989. The building was heavily bombed during the coup and has since been fully restored and today Allende’s statue stands proud outside the Palacio, but there are no statues to Pinochet the Dictator that overthrew President Allende in Chile.

Cerro Santa Lucía and Cerro San Cristóbal
For panoramic views of the city and the Andes, Santiago offers two primary lookouts. Cerro Santa Lucía, located in the city centre, is a beautifully landscaped hill with sweeping views of the skyline. Its historical significance dates to Pedro de Valdivia’s founding of Santiago, and its scenic beauty makes it a popular spot for both tourists and locals.

Cerro Santa Lucía and Cerro San Cristóbal, Santiago de Chile

Cerro San Cristóbal offers an even loftier perch, reached by a funicular railway that has operated since 1925. At the summit, a colossal statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción watches over the city. From here, you can appreciate not only Santiago’s sprawling urban landscape but also its smog problem, which is particularly visible from this height. Behind Cerro San Cristóbal lies one of the largest urban parks in South America, a place where Santiago’s residents can escape the hustle and bustle.

Stations of the Cross, Cerro San Cristóbal, Santiago de Chile

La Chascona – Pablo Neruda’s House
Nestled in the bohemian Bellavista district is La Chascona, one of the homes of Pablo Neruda, Chile’s Nobel Prize-winning poet. Neruda, a key figure in Chilean culture, filled his house with eclectic collections, and it remains a fascinating insight into his life. The house was damaged during the military coup but has since been restored as a museum.

La Chascona, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino
A must-visit for history enthusiasts is the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino, which showcases the rich history of pre-Columbian cultures throughout Latin America. The museum’s exhibits span the Aztec and Maya civilisations in the north to the Inca and Mapuche cultures that once flourished in Chile. The well-curated collection offers visitors a deep dive into the region’s ancient past.

Mercado Central
For a taste of Santiago’s culinary scene, the Mercado Central is the city’s renowned fish market. The grand iron structure, built in the 19th century, is home to stalls selling fresh seafood and numerous restaurants offering traditional Chilean dishes, with a particular focus on seafood. Though some restaurants cater to tourists, those on the perimeter of the market often offer better value.

Mercado Central, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Food, Drink, and Culture

Santiago has seen a burgeoning gastronomic scene, with Chilean wine and seafood forming the backbone of many menus. The city’s restaurants often serve fresh ceviche, along with empanadas and traditional stews like cazuela. The wine bars highlight some of the country’s best vintages, including Carmenère, a grape variety almost exclusive to Chile. Local craft beer is also gaining popularity, with breweries like Kross and Guayacán producing high-quality artisanal brews.

Santiago’s nightlife is centred around the districts of Bellavista and Lastarria, where bars, cafes, and clubs line the streets, offering everything from live jazz to reggaeton. Bellavista, in particular, has long been the city’s bohemian quarter, attracting artists, musicians, and poets.

The Cost of Living and Youth

Despite its growing economy, Santiago’s younger population faces increasing challenges with the cost of living. Housing prices have soared, and the city has become one of the most expensive places to live in Latin America. For many young people, especially students and new professionals, the high cost of housing has made it difficult to find affordable accommodation. This, combined with the strong influence of traditional Catholic values in Chilean society, means that many young people find escape and social freedom in the city’s parks, where they often spend time together, away from the constraints of both home and tradition.

Street Art, Santiago de Chile, Chile

Final Thoughts

Santiago is not only the political and economic centre of Chile but also a city of resilience. It has endured natural disasters like earthquakes, with the 6.2 magnitude quake we experienced during our stay being a prime example of how normal this is for locals. Chilean architecture has adapted to these seismic challenges, with strict building codes that keep the city standing through frequent tremors.

On the cultural front, Santiago stands as a thriving, evolving city. Its juxtaposition of colonial history, modern skyscrapers, and the occasional view of the Andes makes it a compelling destination. The city is continually evolving, much like the country itself, navigating between its tumultuous past and a promising future.

Dates: 4/04/2018 to 13/04/2018 – Dragoman Days 32 to 34