In 2025 we returned to Ushuaia by plane from El Calafate to Aeropuerto Internacional Malvinas Argentinas in Ushuaia.  From Ushuaia in 2025 we flew up to Buenos Aires on a 3 hour or so flight, distances in Argentina are huge, and the length of the flight highlights just how far south and remote Ushuaia is.  Our first visit back in 2018 was by a mixture of land and sea by Dragoman truck and involved a couple of wild bush camps on both legs of the journey in the middle of the island.  Ushuaia is the largest city at the end of the world and is further south than Punta Arenas in Chile, though there is a small Chilean naval base at Puerto Williams that is further south.

In 2025 we stayed at the Lennox Hotel Ushuaia right on the main Avenida San Martín, the principal street of Ushuaia.  The hotel was well equipped, with a dining room on the top floor offering views of the Beagle Channel and all the comings and goings of the big cruise ships that use Ushuaia as their principal hop on and hop off base for Antarctica cruises.

Ushuaia. 2025

Back in 2018 on our Dragoman truck we left Torres del Paine, on a monster 865kms drive into Argentinian Tierra del Fuego to a bush camp just the Argentinian side of the central border near the border crossing at San Sebastián.  The journey took us round Southern Chile to Punta Delgada where the ferry crossed the Magellan Strait into Chilean Tierra del Fuego which, although efficient today, it highlights the challenges early explorers must have faced when navigating these waters.  The bush camp was just off the main road, and in the morning the temperature was so cold that frost had appeared on our tents.

One of the quirks of travel in Tierra del Fuego is the repeated crossing of borders between Chile and Argentina. The island is divided by a straight line down the middle, requiring travellers heading to Ushuaia from Argentina to cross into Chile and then back into Argentina

From our bush camp the following day we completed the remaining 284kms to Ushuaia, via the small town of Tolhuin with its famous bakery, La Unión Panadería & Confitería, which makes excellent bread, empanadas and other savoury and sweet Argentinian snacks, also on its walls are some great pictures of a who’s who of the many famous Argentinian and international visitors over the years.

In Ushuaia we stayed at the Hostel del Glaciar Libertador, accommodation in Ushuaia is more expensive than many other places in Argentina, as is the cost of basic services including food and laundry.

Our return journey back to the mainland took us 160km north back across the frontier into Chile for another bush camp short of the ferry port to the mainland, travelling via the King Penguin colony at Reserva Natural Pingüino Rey a few kilometres inside Chile close to the principal border in the island.  With the restrictions of taking raw food across the border into Chile, for food that night we pre-cooked a big vat of stew, beef being good value in Argentina, to reheat over the camp stove.  We were allowed to take cooked food across the border.

Our final journey out of Tierra del Fuego took us the 300kms back across the Magellan Strait and then back into Argentina for another bush camp after a stop to purchase new supplies and have lunch in the furthest south town in mainland Argentina, Rio Galleagos.

Dragoman bus camping in Tierra del Fuego – Chile/Argentina, Magellan Strait & Ferry at Punta Delgado, 2018

Geography and Climate

Tierra del Fuego, located at the southernmost tip of South America, is known for its rugged, dramatic landscapes. The island is split between Chile and Argentina, with the majority of its population living in the southern parts around Ushuaia (Argentina) and Porvenir (Chile). Northern Tierra del Fuego is characterised by barren, treeless scrubland with relentless winds, while the southern region is more mountainous and fertile. The climate is typically cold, windy, and damp year-round, with winters seeing snowfall across the region and summers rarely reaching more than 15°C.

The island’s position between the Magellan Strait to the north and the Beagle Channel to the south places it at a crucial maritime crossroads. These waterways have been of immense historical significance for explorers like Ferdinand Magellan, who gave the strait its name, and Charles Darwin, who sailed through the Beagle Channel aboard the HMS Beagle. The Magellan Strait is notoriously difficult to navigate due to its narrow width and prevailing westerly winds, while the Beagle Channel is calmer and has become the primary route for shipping and cruise lines avoiding the turbulent waters around Cape Horn.

History and Explorers

Tierra del Fuego’s name, “Land of Fire,” originates from the fires set by the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam peoples, which were spotted by European explorers. Despite their initial resilience, the native population was decimated by European diseases introduced by settlers and missionaries. In addition, the adoption of European clothing, which was unsuitable for the harsh conditions, further weakened these communities.

Notable explorers like Magellan and Darwin are closely associated with the region. Magellan’s expedition was the first to navigate the eponymous strait in 1520, marking the opening of the southern route between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Darwin, during his voyage on the HMS Beagle in the 1830s, studied the region’s geology and wildlife, leading to key observations that influenced his theory of evolution.

Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, Beagle Channel and Ushuaia, 2025

Tierra del Fuego National Park & The Train at the End of the World

A short distance from Ushuaia, the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (Tierra del Fuego National Park) offers a striking landscape where the Andes meet the sea, creating a mix of jagged peaks, deep valleys, and windswept forests. Covering around 630 km², the park protects a region of subantarctic beech forests, glacial rivers, and peat bogs, providing a habitat for species like Magellanic woodpeckers, Andean foxes, and the elusive guanaco. Popular trails lead to scenic spots such as Bahía Lapataia, the southernmost end of the Pan-American Highway, where visitors find a famous sign marking the distance to Alaska. Another highlight is Lago Roca (Acigami Lake), a serene glacial lake shared between Argentina and Chile, perfect for spotting native birdlife and taking in the stillness of the landscape. The park’s rugged beauty is particularly pronounced in autumn when the lenga and ñire trees turn brilliant shades of red and orange.

For those looking to experience the region’s history, the Tren del Fin del Mundo (Train at the End of the World) provides a journey into the past.  The train journey is expensive and slightly cliched by having a number of extras dressed up as penal convicts but nevertheless is a unique opportunity to travel on something unusual and unique.  Originally built in the early 20th century to transport prisoners from Ushuaia’s penal colony to the forests for timber, this narrow-gauge steam train now offers a 7 km scenic ride through Patagonian landscapes, past rivers, forests, and remnants of old logging camps. Departing from the Estación del Fin del Mundo, the train follows part of the original route, winding through the lush Pipo River Valley before reaching the national park. 

Tren del Fin del Mundo, 2025

Another unique experience is the Correo del Fin del Mundo, a tiny wooden post office on the shores of Bahía Ensenada, where visitors used to be able to send a postcard stamped from the southernmost post offices on the planet, but today the post office is closed.

King Penguins at Reserva Natural Pingüinu Ray, Chile, 2018

Tierra del Fuego – Wildlife

The wildlife of Tierra del Fuego is another draw for visitors:

King penguins (Aptenodytes patagonicus) have re-established a breeding colony at Reserva Natural Pingüino Rey, a few kilometres off the main road between Porvenir and the Argentinian border at San Sebastián, on the Chilean side of the island, where we witnessed these majestic birds on our return journey from Ushuaia.  Some of the penguins were still incubating eggs, while others were feeding their young, which were considerably fatter than the adults. Their plumage of the orange sash that sits between their black heads and white breasts makes them one of the most striking birds in the wild. 

Guanacos, the wild relatives of llamas, roam the open plains of northern Tierra del Fuego. Birdwatchers can spot condors, caracaras, and a variety of seabirds along the coastlines and mountainous areas.

Further south, the Beagle Channel is a haven for marine and coastal wildlife, with several islands serving as key breeding sites. Large colonies of South American sea lions (Otaria flavescens) haul out on rocky islets, their deep barks echoing across the water as dominant males defend their harems from rivals. The smaller South American fur seal (Arctocephalus australis) is also present, though in lesser numbers, often found resting on isolated outcrops.

Among the seabirds, Magellanic penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus) nest in burrows along the shores, particularly on Martillo Island, where visitors can witness them waddling across the beaches or swimming through the cold waters. Gentoo penguins (Pygoscelis papua), more commonly associated with subantarctic islands, have also established a small colony here, making it one of the few places in South America where they can be seen.

Imperial Cormorants and Sea Lions, 2025

Adding to the spectacle, imperial cormorants (Leucocarbo atriceps), also known as blue-eyed shags, perch on rocky cliffs and outcrops, often in mixed colonies with rock shags (Leucocarbo magellanicus). Their black-and-white plumage, bright blue eyes, and yellow-orange facial skin make them distinctive, especially when they spread their wings to dry in the wind. These expert divers plunge into the channel’s icy waters in search of fish, forming large, synchronised feeding flocks.

Sea lions at Isla de los Lobos and Imperial Cormorants in the Beagle Channel, Argentina. King Penguins at Reserva Natural Pingüinu Ray, Chile, 2018

Economy

The economy of Tierra del Fuego is a unique mix of industries encouraged by both the Argentine and Chilean governments through tax incentives to promote settlement. In Ushuaia, the largest city in the region, tourism is a major industry, with its role as a gateway to Antarctica and Patagonia attracting thousands of visitors annually. Other industries include fishing, oil extraction, and limited manufacturing, supported by the government’s subsidies aimed at bolstering the southern economy.

La Unión Panadería & Confitería, Tolhuin and Ushuaia, fin del mundo, Argentina, 2018

Ushuaia – The City at the End of the World

Ushuaia, often referred to as the “city at the end of the world,” is the southernmost city in the world, with a population of around 80,000 inhabitants. Nestled between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, its unique location gives the city a rugged and remote charm. Ushuaia’s architecture reflects both its frontier spirit and its growth as a tourist hub. The town retains a remote charm, with its isolated position allowing visitors to feel as though they’ve reached the End of the World.

The city’s buildings range from utilitarian structures left over from its days as a penal colony to modern, colourful houses that mirror the architectural styles found in Patagonia, with wood and corrugated metal features. A more recent trend includes hotels and resorts built to accommodate the influx of tourists.

The city’s port serves as a gateway for both Antarctic expeditions and tourist cruises exploring the Beagle Channel. The channel, named after the HMS Beagle, aboard which Charles Darwin sailed, is one of the most popular attractions for visitors.

The Story of the Saint Christopher in Ushuaia Harbour

The Saint Christopher, a rusting shipwreck resting in Ushuaia’s harbour, is a relic of the region’s maritime history and a reminder of the challenges faced in the Beagle Channel. Originally built as a Royal Navy tugboat during World War II, the vessel was later acquired by an Argentine company and brought to Tierra del Fuego. In 1953, the Saint Christopher was involved in a salvage operation to recover the Monte Cervantes, a German cruise ship that had sunk off Ushuaia in1930 after striking submerged rocks. Despite efforts to raise the wreck, the mission failed, and soon after, the Saint Christopher itself ran aground due to engine failure and financial troubles. Today, its rusting hull remains half-submerged in Ushuaia’s Bay, an iconic yet solemn reminder of the region’s maritime past, visible to all who stroll along the city’s waterfront.

Saint Christopher and Ushuaia Harbour, 2025

Our Lady of Mercy Church

The Nuestra Señora de la Merced (Our Lady of Mercy) Church is Ushuaia’s main Catholic church, standing as one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Built in 1946, the church’s modest yet charming architecture reflects the region’s frontier spirit, with its yellow façade, red roof, and wooden interior offering a warm contrast to the often-grey skies of Tierra del Fuego. Inside, the simple nave and wooden pews create a tranquil space for worship, while the tall bell tower is a notable feature against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains. The church serves as an important place of faith for Ushuaia’s residents and a cultural landmark in a city that has grown from its missionary and penal colony origins.

Nuestra Señora de la Merced, 2025

One of the most distinctive features inside the church is stained-glass window depicting Saint Christopher, the patron saint of travellers and sailors. The window pays homage to Ushuaia’s maritime history, particularly referencing the Saint Christopher ship, whose wreck still lies in the harbour. Given the treacherous waters of the Beagle Channel, the inclusion of Saint Christopher symbolises protection and safe passage for those who navigate these remote southern seas.

Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, 2025

Beagle Channel Cruise and the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse

Cruises along the Beagle Channel offer breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and islands, while also providing opportunities to spot native wildlife such as sea lions, Magellanic penguins, and cormorants. One of the most iconic sights along the channel is the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse. Though often referred to as the “Lighthouse at the End of the World,” a name popularised by Jules Verne’s novel, the lighthouse is not actually at the world’s end, but its striking red and white structure set against the icy waters and distant mountains certainly gives it an otherworldly feel. The lighthouse has been guiding ships through these treacherous waters since 1920 and is a highlight of most Beagle Channel tours.

Beagle Channel & Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, Ushuaia, Argentina, 2018

Museo del Fin del Mundo and the former Ushuaia Prison

The city’s Museo del Fin del Mundo and the former Ushuaia Prison provide visitors with a deeper understanding of the region’s history, including its use as a penal colony in the early 20th century. The prison housed notorious criminals as well as political prisoners and became a harsh symbol of isolation. Today, it’s one of the key museums in the city, preserving the stories of Ushuaia’s past.

Ushuaia’s Connection to the Falkland Islands / Islas Malvinas

Ushuaia holds a symbolic and strategic connection to the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas), reflecting both historical tensions and economic ties. As the capital of Tierra del Fuego province, which officially includes the disputed islands inArgentina’s territorial claims, Ushuaia serves as a focal point for national sentiment regarding the sovereignty dispute with the United Kingdom. The city prominently features memorials, murals, and official signage asserting Argentina’s claim, including the Plaza Islas Malvinas, which honours the soldiers who fought in the 1982 conflict. Beyond the political aspect, Ushuaia also plays a role in logistical connections, as the nearest major Argentine port to the islands. Despite the enduring dispute, there are limited commercial and maritime links, particularly in fisheries, highlighting the region’s shared dependence on the South Atlantic’s resources.

Falklands Memorial and Ushuaia, 2025

Environmental Concerns and Cultural Loss

Much of Tierra del Fuego’s original culture was lost due to the European diseases that wiped out most of the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam populations.

Tierra del Fuego has not been immune to more recent environmental challenges. In the 1940s, the Argentine government introduced beavers from Canada in a bid to stimulate the fur trade.  Since their introduction, beavers have proliferated unchecked, causing extensive damage to subantarctic forests by felling trees and flooding valleys. Without natural predators, their numbers have soared, leading to widespread deforestation and altered waterways.

Efforts to control the population have largely failed, leaving a lasting environmental impact.  These efforts have intensified in recent years, as their impact on the island’s fragile ecosystems has become more severe. Recent initiatives, including a binational eradication programme between Argentina and Chile, have aimed to curb their spread, with a combination of trapping, culling, and habitat restoration. However, the challenge remains immense, as the beavers continue to expand into new areas, further threatening the unique lenga and ñire forests.

In addition to culling efforts, authorities and conservationists have sought to encourage the human consumption of beaver meat, promoting it as a sustainable culinary alternative. Local restaurants have experimented with dishes such as beaver empanadas, aiming to create demand for the invasive species while reducing its numbers. However, the campaign has faced mixed success, as many locals remain reluctant to embrace beaver as a food source.

Combined with the pressures of climate change, the ongoing struggle against invasive species highlights the need for sustained conservation efforts to protect Tierra del Fuego’s fragile ecosystems.

Rio Gallegos

Rio Gallegos, on the mainland, is the largest town in southern Argentina and serves as a hub for the region’s agriculture and oil industries. The town is steeped in political history, with its main street named after former president Néstor Kirchner, who hailed from the area. Rio Gallegos also holds a claim to fame as one of the towns where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, los bandidos norteamericanos, staged one of their famous bank robberies in 1905 at the the Banco de Londres y Tarapaca.

Literary Legacy

Bruce Chatwin’s In Patagonia remains a seminal work on the region, capturing the unique blend of wilderness, history, and myth that defines Tierra del Fuego. His stories, drawn from his travels through the area, have helped to immortalise the mystique of Patagonia and the southernmost reaches of the Americas.

Final Thoughts

Tierra del Fuego is an extraordinary region shaped by isolation, extremes, and a rich history. Its harsh, often unforgiving climate—icy winds, low temperatures, and rugged terrain—reflects the resilience of early explorers like Magellan, who braved these waters, scientists like Darwin and the indigenous Yamana and Selk’nam, whose lives were deeply entwined with this land. The stark landscapes, crossing the Magellan Strait to Ushuaia and onward, offer a sanctuary for wildlife such as guanacos, king penguins, and sea lions. Exploring this “End of the World” is a journey through history, survival, and nature at its wildest.

Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Merced & Prison, Ushuaia, Argentina, 2018

Dates: 18/03/2018 to 23/03/2018 Dragoman Days – 14 to 19 (Revised 03/11/2024) and 15/02/2025 to 18/02/202