The journey from El Calafate to Puerto Natales and the gateway to Torres del Paine and the W Walk, was 253km and around 9 hours which included the first of many border crossings between Argentina and Chile on our Dragoman journey.  Crossing into Chile can take time as the Chilean authorities are anxious to protect their important agribusiness so customs formalities especially those concerning the movement of food and other organic items especially strict.

Puerto Natales: Gateway to Torres del Paine

Before entering the embarking on the Torres del Paine National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, we stopped off in Puerto Natales for supplies and any additional trekking equipment the group needed.  Puerto Natales is the main gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. This small town sits on the shores of the Última Esperanza Sound, offering stunning views of snow-capped mountains in the distance. Historically, Puerto Natales began as a hub for sheep farming, which was central to the economy of this region of Chilean Patagonia. In recent decades, it has transformed into a bustling stopover for trekkers, with outdoor gear shops, hostels, and cosy restaurants catering to those venturing into the wilds of Torres del Paine. Despite its small size, the town has a welcoming, laid-back atmosphere, with travellers sharing stories of adventures in the wind-swept landscapes of southern Chile.

Geography and Climate of Torres del Paine

The Torres del Paine National Park is an extraordinary convergence of the Andes and the Patagonian steppe, where towering granite peaks rise above shimmering turquoise lakes and sprawling glaciers. Covering an area of over 2,400 square kilometres, the park features diverse ecosystems, from the arid scrublands of the eastern sections to lush forests and windswept mountain ridges in the west. The Paine Massif is the heart of the park, where jagged peaks, such as the famous “Torres” (Towers), dominate the landscape.

The climate in Torres del Paine is unpredictable and often harsh, with strong winds, heavy rains, and rapid weather changes, all typical of the Patagonian region. Temperatures in summer (December to February) range between 5°C and 18°C (41°F and 64°F), while in winter, they can drop below freezing. The infamous Patagonian wind, often reaching speeds of 100 km/h (62 mph), has earned its nickname Escoba de Dios (God’s Broom), shaping the landscape and vegetation. Visitors need to be prepared for all conditions, even in the height of summer.

Entry into the Park and Camping at Pehoé

We began our journey into Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales, the gateway to the park. The scenic drive took us through the rugged Patagonian landscape, with the snow-capped peaks of the Paine Massif growing ever closer. After entering the park, we set up camp for our first night at Camping Pehoé, which offered stunning views over the turquoise waters of Lago Pehoé, reflecting the distant mountains. The next morning, we crossed the lake by boat, a breathtaking journey across the shimmering waters to Refugio Pehoé, where we officially began the famed W Walk, ready to explore the park’s dramatic valleys and glaciers.  In order to manage numbers on the W Walk and protect the environment the Chilean authorities insist on all visitors taking an official guide and also limit numbers by requiring trekkers to obtain one of a limited number of daily permits.

The W Trek: Day-by-Day Overview

Day 1: Grey Glacier (33 km)

The first leg of the W Trek begins on the western side of the park, with a hike towards Grey Glacier. This 33 km trek takes you through a landscape still scarred by the devastating 2011 fire, passing through windswept terrain where burnt trees form eerie silhouettes against the backdrop of the Paine Massif. After several hours of hiking, Glacier Grey comes into view, a breathtaking spectacle of ice calving into the equally mesmerising Lago Grey. The glacier itself, about 6 km wide and 30 metres high, is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest ice masses in the world. It eventually feeds into the Pacific Ocean, unlike Perito Moreno, which drains into the Atlantic.

Lago Grey, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Day 2: Valle del Francés (25 km)

The second day covers 25 km and leads up into the dramatic Valle del Francés, one of the most beautiful parts of the trek. The valley offers panoramic views of Paine Grande and the surrounding peaks, including the towering spires of the Torres in the distance. Along the way, trekkers witness icefalls from Glacier Francés, accompanied by thunderous sounds as chunks of ice break away. The strong winds, known as God’s Broom, whip through the valley, making the hike even more challenging. Unfortunately, high winds often close the path up to the Británico Camp and its breathtaking viewpoint. That evening, we camped at the base of Cuerno Principal near Lago Nordenskjöld, where the staff treated us to an authentic Patagonian feast of slow-cooked beef and sweet potato mash.

Valle del Francés, Torres del Paine, Chile

Day 3: Lago Nordenskjöld (20 km)

Day three is a gentler 20 km trek along the shores of Lago Nordenskjöld, through an undulating landscape of forest and scrubland. The trail passes through areas not affected by the 2011 fire, offering a mix of rich greenery and striking views of the grey-blue lake. The towering Cuernos del Paine (Paine Horns) stand watch over the route, their jagged summits often covered by clouds. Though the day is easier in terms of elevation, the fierce winds and unpredictable weather continue to test trekkers as they move closer to the final challenge: the climb to the Torres.

Lago Nordenskjöld, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Day 4: Mirador Las Torres (28 km)

The final day of the W Trek is the most iconic, covering 28 km in total with a significant ascent of around 900 metres. The hike begins with a gentle walk through a valley, crossing streams and alpine meadows before reaching the Chilean Refuge. From here, the trail becomes more challenging as it climbs through dense forests and rocky slopes, with several river crossings providing opportunities to refill water bottles with pure mountain water. The final ascent to the Mirador Las Torres is the hardest, as hikers navigate a steep, rocky path to the base of the three famous granite towers. Reaching the top, trekkers are rewarded with a stunning view of the Torres del Paine rising vertically above a glacial lake, a moment that marks the culmination of the W Trek.

Descending from the viewpoint was slow, as the pressure on knees from the steep terrain was intense. We were joined by many other trekkers making their way up the mountain, as this part of the park is the most popular, even for day-trippers. Over the four days, we had walked a total of 106 km, an unforgettable journey through one of South America’s premier trekking routes.

Mirador Las Torres, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Flora and Fauna of Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine is not only renowned for its dramatic landscapes but also for its rich biodiversity. The park is home to a variety of ecosystems, ranging from windswept grasslands to lush forests and alpine meadows. Among the most iconic animals are the guanacos, relatives of the llama, which graze across the Patagonian steppe in large herds. These graceful animals are a favourite sight for visitors and a vital food source for the elusive puma, the park’s top predator. Birdlife is also abundant, with Andean condors soaring high above the peaks, and the striking Chilean flamingos gathering around the park’s lakes.

One of the more surprising inhabitants of this remote region is the Austral parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus), the world’s southernmost parrot species. These bright green birds with red bellies are often seen flitting among the southern beech forests of the park. The woodlands, which include lenga and coigüe trees, provide important habitats for various species, including the Magellanic woodpecker and the strikingly coloured Patagonian fox.

The flora of the park is equally diverse, adapting to the harsh Patagonian conditions. Low-growing shrubs, grasses, and hardy flowers such as the calafate bush (which gives the town of El Calafate its name) are scattered throughout the steppe. Legend has it that those who eat the dark berries of the calafate bush are destined to return to Patagonia. The forests in the park’s valleys are also home to a variety of mosses, lichens, and wild orchids, adding to the park’s incredible ecological variety.

Austral parakeet, Torres del Paine, Chile

Environmental Challenges in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine faces significant environmental challenges, primarily driven by tourism and climate change. The park’s fragile ecosystems are increasingly threatened by over-tourism, with more than 250,000 visitors annually putting pressure on the trails, campsites, and ildlife habitats. Litter, human waste, and foot traffic contribute to soil erosion and damage to the delicate vegetation. The devastating fire in 2011, caused by a careless tourist, destroyed vast areas of native lenga forest, taking decades to recover. Additionally, the region’s glaciers, including Grey Glacier, are receding due to the impacts of global warming, while the unpredictable and fierce Patagonian winds, which locals call “Escoba de Dios” (God’s Broom), continue to reshape the landscape. Park authorities are actively working to promote sustainable tourism and conservation efforts to protect this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for future generations.

Dates: 13/03/2018 to 18/03/2018 Dragoman Days 10 to 14