We visited Torres del Paine first in March 2018 and returned there in slightly earlier in the season in February 2025.  The national Park remains as beguiling as ever, but some of the impacts of climate change on the stability of the glaciers was all too apparent over the seven years between our visits.

Our first journey in 2018 was by the Dragoman truck from El Calafate to Puerto Natales and the gateway to Torres del Paine and the W Walk, was 253km and around 9 hours which included the first of many border crossings between Argentina and Chile on our Dragoman journey.  Crossing into Chile can take time as the Chilean authorities are anxious to protect their important agribusiness so customs formalities especially those concerning the movement of food and other organic items especially strict.

Our more recent journey involved flying to Punta Arenas, the principal Chilean town in the far south of Patagonia and taking an overland transfer up to Torres del Paine.  This time we made the reverse journey to El Calafate in Argentina.

Punta Arenas: Gateway to Patagonia

Punta Arenas, the southernmost city on Chile’s mainland, sits on the windswept shores of the Strait of Magellan, a historically vital maritime route. Founded in 1848, the city grew into a major commercial hub before being overshadowed by the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. Today, it remains a key gateway for Antarctic expeditions and Patagonia tourism, while its rich history is shaped by early explorers, waves of European migration, and the legacy of its once-thriving sheep-farming economy.

Punta Arenas has a subpolar oceanic climate with cool summers and cold, windy winters. Average temperatures range from 12°C in summer (December–February) to 1°C in winter (June–August). Strong winds, often exceeding 100 km/h, are a defining feature, making windbreaks a necessity. Snowfall occurs in winter, though it rarely accumulates heavily.

Punta Arenas

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Punta Arenas flourished as a key supply point for ships navigating between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans via the Strait of Magellan. The city’s economy boomed, particularly due to the sheep-farming industry, which transformed Patagonia into a major wool and meat-producing region. However, the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914 drastically reduced ship traffic through the strait, leading to economic decline. Today, Punta Arenas relies on tourism, fishing, and oil extraction, with its role as a launch point for Antarctic expeditions playing a growing part in the local economy.

In Punta Arenas we stayed in the Eco Lofts Croacia and also ate in two good restaurants, La Luna with its crab speciality and La Marmita catering to more modern tastes.

Puerto Natales: Gateway to Torres del Paine

Before entering the embarking on the Torres del Paine National Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, we stopped off in Puerto Natales for supplies and any additional trekking equipment the group needed.  Puerto Natales is the main gateway to Torres del Paine National Park. This small town sits on the shores of the Última Esperanza Sound, offering stunning views of snow-capped mountains in the distance. Historically, Puerto Natales began as a hub for sheep farming, which was central to the economy of this region of Chilean Patagonia. In recent decades, it has transformed into a bustling stopover for trekkers, with outdoor gear shops, hostels, and cosy restaurants catering to those venturing into the wilds of Torres del Paine. Despite its small size, the town has a welcoming, laid-back atmosphere, with travellers sharing stories of adventures in the wind-swept landscapes of southern Chile.

Sheep Ranching: Breeds, Wool Quality & Estancia Breeding

Sheep ranching has been central to the economy of Punta Arenas and Patagonia since the late 19th century, with vast estancias (ranches) covering millions of hectares of grassland. The primary sheep breed raised in the region is the Merino, prized for its fine, high-quality wool, and the Corriedale, which produces both wool and meat.

• Merino Wool: Extremely fine and soft, highly sought after in the global textile market for luxury garments.
• Corriedale Wool: Coarser than Merino but still valuable, used in durable fabrics and outerwear.

Breeding is managed through a seasonal cycle known as “estivación”, or transhumance, where sheep graze in lower-altitude pastures during winter and are moved to higher-altitude summer pastures as the weather warms. This practice, inherited from European settlers, helps ensure healthy pastures, reduces disease, and improves wool quality by allowing sheep to graze on fresh vegetation.

The shearing season, typically in November and December, is a major event across Patagonian estancias, with skilled shearers working in rapid succession to remove the wool in a single fleece per sheep. Wool is then graded and exported, with Australia and New Zealand as major competitors in the market. Despite challenges like extreme weather and global price fluctuations, sheep farming remains a cornerstone of Patagonia’s rural economy.

Sheep Ranching, Estancia Negro

Explorers: Magellan, Darwin & the Beagle

The history of Punta Arenas is closely linked to early European explorers. Ferdinand Magellan was the first European to navigate the strait in 1520, giving the passage its name and marking the region as a key maritime route. Later, Charles Darwin visited the area in 1833 aboard HMS Beagle, captained by Robert FitzRoy. Darwin studied the indigenous Selk’nam and Yaghan peoples, as well as the unique wildlife, shaping his observations on adaptation and evolution.

In Punta Arenas there is a small museum, just out of town with replica models of the Nao Victoria from Magellan’s epic journey and, also the HMS Beagle.  The museum is the lifetime’s work of a local Chilean cartographer.  The museum also contains an interesting map of Chile shown with west at the top rather than the north as in typical maps and gives a completely different perspective to Chile as one long coastline.

Replica Ships in Punta Arenas, the HMS Beagle, Nao Victoria and Shackleton’s Boat

Migration Waves: Croatians & British Influence

Punta Arenas saw significant European migration in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The largest group was the Croatians, who arrived in the late 1800s, fleeing economic hardship in Dalmatia. Many established businesses and played a key role in the sheep-farming industry, forming a tight-knit community that remains influential today.

The British, particularly Scottish and Welsh settlers were also instrumental in Patagonia’s economic development. They brought expertise in sheep ranching and maritime trade, contributing to the region’s cultural and economic landscape. Many British families still maintain estates in the region, while the Anglican Church and local traditions reflect their lasting influence.

Torres del Paine

The Torres del Paine National Park is an extraordinary convergence of the Andes and the Patagonian steppe, where towering granite peaks rise above shimmering turquoise lakes and sprawling glaciers. Covering an area of over 2,400 square kilometres, the park features diverse ecosystems, from the arid scrublands of the eastern sections to lush forests and windswept mountain ridges in the west. The Paine Massif is the heart of the park, where jagged peaks, such as the famous “Torres” (Towers), dominate the landscape.

The climate in Torres del Paine is unpredictable and often harsh, with strong winds, heavy rains, and rapid weather changes, all typical of the Patagonian region. Temperatures in summer (December to February) range between 5°C and 18°C (41°F and 64°F), while in winter, they can drop below freezing. The infamous Patagonian wind, often reaching speeds of 100 km/h (62 mph), has earned its nickname Escoba de Dios (God’s Broom), shaping the landscape and vegetation. Visitors need to be prepared for all conditions, even in the height of summer.

Cuernos del Paine, Torres del Paine

Geology of Torres del Paine: The Towers and Cuernos

The dramatic landscapes of Torres del Paine National Park were shaped by glacial, tectonic, and volcanic activityover millions of years. The park’s most iconic features, the Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) and the Cuernos del Paine (Horns of Paine), are striking geological formations created through a combination of intrusive rock uplift and erosion.

The Torres, three towering granite monoliths, were formed around 12 million years ago when molten rock intruded into older sedimentary layers. Over time, glaciers and extreme weather eroded the softer surrounding rock, exposing the sheer vertical faces seen today.

In contrast, the Cuernos del Paine display a unique two-tone appearance due to igneous and sedimentary rock layering. Their dark caps are composed of metamorphic rock, while the lighter lower sections are made of granite, the result of a later magma intrusion. The combination of glacial carving and relentless Patagonian winds has sculpted these peaks into the jagged, awe-inspiring formations that define the park’s skyline.

Views from Las Torres Hotel

Las Torres Hotel, the Kusanovic Family & Torres del Paine National Park

One of the most famous Croatian-Chilean families in Patagonia is the Kusanovic family, who own and operate Hotel Las Torres, a renowned lodge in Torres del Paine National Park. Originally sheep ranchers, the family transitioned into eco-tourism, developing the hotel into a sustainable retreat for visitors exploring the park.

Las Torres Hotel is deeply intertwined with Torres del Paine National Park, offering guided treks, horseback riding excursions, and conservation-focused activities. The hotel was once part of Estancia Cerro Paine, a family-run sheep ranch, before the Kusanovic family decided to support conservation efforts by shifting their focus from livestock to tourism. Today, they work in partnership with park authorities and environmental organisations to promote sustainable tourism.

Their initiatives include:

• Restoring Native Vegetation: Reducing the impact of overgrazing from past sheep farming.
• Eco-Friendly Operations: Using renewable energy and waste management systems.
• Support for Local Gauchos: Keeping Patagonian horseback traditions alive by employing and training local horsemen for guided rides.

By transforming their ranch into a conservation-driven hotel, the Kusanovic family has played a crucial role in balancing eco-tourism with environmental protection, ensuring future generations can experience the breathtaking landscapes of Torres del Paine while maintaining Patagonia’s cultural heritage.

Activities arranged by Las Torres Hotel

Activities arranged by Las Torres Hotel

The hotel arranges a number of activities for its guests, of varying degrees of difficulty.  The most popular being the hike up to the three towers, accompanied by a number of very informative guides who not only look after your safety, but also a treasure trove of interesting information about the geology and fauna of the park and also many of the old Patagonian legends too.  We did a number of activities during our visit, including:

On the first day, the hike to the Torres del Paine viewpoint, a demanding yet rewarding trek that showcases the park’s most famous peaks. The 22 km round-trip hike, which takes between 7 to 9 hours, begins from the hotel and ascends through ancient lenga forests, rugged valleys, and rocky moraines before reaching the Laguna Torres, a stunning glacial lake at the base of the three granite spires.

Trek to Las Torres

Compared to 2018, the trail was noticeably busier in 2025, reflecting the growing popularity of Torres del Paine as a global trekking destination. Increased foot traffic has led to stricter park regulations, with rangers monitoring visitor numbers to mitigate environmental impact. Despite conservation efforts, signs of erosion on the trails were more apparent due to heavier use.

Beyond the crowds, another striking change over the seven years was the retreat of the glaciers clinging to the Torres. In 2018, remnants of ice and snow nestled between the peaks were a defining feature of the landscape. By 2025, these had visibly shrunk, with less ice and a greater exposure of bare rock—another stark reminder of the impact of climate changeon Patagonia’s fragile ecosystems. Despite these changes, the sunrise over the Towers and the changing light throughout the day, with their sheer rock faces glowing in shades of pink and orange, remains an unforgettable sight.

Las Torres del Paine in 2025 and 2018

On the second day, Las Torres Hotel offers an unforgettable horseback riding excursion through the foothills surrounding the hotel and along the shores of a nearby glacial lake. This experience provides a different perspective on the park’s rugged beauty, allowing riders to traverse rolling grasslands, lenga forests, and panoramic ridges at a relaxed pace.

A highlight of this ride is the chance to immerse in Chilean gaucho culture, a tradition deeply rooted in Patagonian ranching history. The hotel’s baqueanos—the Chilean equivalent of gauchos—are expert horsemen who have spent their lives working in the region, herding sheep and cattle across vast estancias. Riding alongside them offers insight into their unique way of life, from their distinctive attire, including berets and bombachas (loose riding trousers), to their remarkable skills in handling Patagonia’s resilient Criollo horses.

The ride itself is tailored for all experience levels, from beginners to advanced riders, and offers breathtaking views of Torres del Paine’s jagged peaks reflected in the still waters of the lake. With the crisp mountain air, the distant calls of Andean condors circling overhead, and the rhythmic movement of the horses, this morning ride captures the spirit of Patagonia in a truly authentic way.

Horse riding with the banqueros

Dragoman Journey into  the Park and Camping at Pehoé

We began our journey into Torres del Paine from Puerto Natales, the gateway to the park. The scenic drive took us through the rugged Patagonian landscape, with the snow-capped peaks of the Paine Massif growing ever closer. After entering the park, we set up camp for our first night at Camping Pehoé, which offered stunning views over the turquoise waters of Lago Pehoé, reflecting the distant mountains. The next morning, we crossed the lake by boat, a breathtaking journey across the shimmering waters to Refugio Pehoé, where we officially began the famed W Walk, ready to explore the park’s dramatic valleys and glaciers.  In order to manage numbers on the W Walk and protect the environment the Chilean authorities insist on all visitors taking an official guide and also limit numbers by requiring trekkers to obtain one of a limited number of daily permits.

The W Trek: Day-by-Day Overview

Day 1: Grey Glacier (33 km)

The first leg of the W Trek begins on the western side of the park, with a hike towards Grey Glacier. This 33 km trek takes you through a landscape still scarred by the devastating 2011 fire, passing through windswept terrain where burnt trees form eerie silhouettes against the backdrop of the Paine Massif. After several hours of hiking, Glacier Grey comes into view, a breathtaking spectacle of ice calving into the equally mesmerising Lago Grey. The glacier itself, about 6 km wide and 30 metres high, is part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, one of the largest ice masses in the world. It eventually feeds into the Pacific Ocean, unlike Perito Moreno, which drains into the Atlantic.

Lago Grey, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Day 2: Valle del Francés (25 km)

The second day covers 25 km and leads up into the dramatic Valle del Francés, one of the most beautiful parts of the trek. The valley offers panoramic views of Paine Grande and the surrounding peaks, including the towering spires of the Torres in the distance. Along the way, trekkers witness icefalls from Glacier Francés, accompanied by thunderous sounds as chunks of ice break away. The strong winds, known as God’s Broom, whip through the valley, making the hike even more challenging. Unfortunately, high winds often close the path up to the Británico Camp and its breathtaking viewpoint. That evening, we camped at the base of Cuerno Principal near Lago Nordenskjöld, where the staff treated us to an authentic Patagonian feast of slow-cooked beef and sweet potato mash.

Valle del Francés, Torres del Paine, Chile

Day 3: Lago Nordenskjöld (20 km)

Day three is a gentler 20 km trek along the shores of Lago Nordenskjöld, through an undulating landscape of forest and scrubland. The trail passes through areas not affected by the 2011 fire, offering a mix of rich greenery and striking views of the grey-blue lake. The towering Cuernos del Paine (Paine Horns) stand watch over the route, their jagged summits often covered by clouds. Though the day is easier in terms of elevation, the fierce winds and unpredictable weather continue to test trekkers as they move closer to the final challenge: the climb to the Torres.

Lago Nordenskjöld, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Day 4: Mirador Las Torres (28 km)

The final day of the W Trek is the most iconic, covering 28 km in total with a significant ascent of around 900 metres. The hike begins with a gentle walk through a valley, crossing streams and alpine meadows before reaching the Chilean Refuge. From here, the trail becomes more challenging as it climbs through dense forests and rocky slopes, with several river crossings providing opportunities to refill water bottles with pure mountain water. The final ascent to the Mirador Las Torres is the hardest, as hikers navigate a steep, rocky path to the base of the three famous granite towers. Reaching the top, trekkers are rewarded with a stunning view of the Torres del Paine rising vertically above a glacial lake, a moment that marks the culmination of the W Trek.

Descending from the viewpoint was slow, as the pressure on knees from the steep terrain was intense. We were joined by many other trekkers making their way up the mountain, as this part of the park is the most popular, even for day-trippers. Over the four days, we had walked a total of 106 km, an unforgettable journey through one of South America’s premier trekking routes.

Mirador Las Torres, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Flora and Fauna of Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine is not only renowned for its dramatic landscapes but also for its rich biodiversity. The park is home to a variety of ecosystems, ranging from windswept grasslands to lush forests and alpine meadows. 

Torres del Paine National Park is one of South America’s most spectacular wildlife refuges, home to a diverse range of species adapted to Patagonia’s harsh conditions. Among its most iconic inhabitants is the puma (Puma concolor patagonica), the top predator in the region.  Torres del Paine has one of the highest densities of pumas in the world, thanks to conservation efforts supported by eco lodges like Las Torres,and a growing guanaco population, their primary prey.

Puma

On of last visit, we were fortunate to have one the Park’s big alpha males, named Carnaza, come close to the Las Torres Lodge.  Over the years he has taken down many horses owned by the lodge, but since they started keeping mules with the horses, the casualty rate amongst the horses has been reduced as the mules fight back.

Among the most iconic animals are the guanacos, relatives of the llama, which graze across the Patagonian steppe in family groups dominated by an alpha male, who can often be seen standing sentry on high ground guarding his family. These graceful animals are a favourite sight for visitors and a vital food source for the elusive puma, the park’s top predator. Birdlife is also abundant, with Andean condors soaring high above the peaks, and the striking Chilean flamingos gathering around the park’s lakes.  Other key fauna in the park are: Huemul Deer: A rare and endangered species, featured on Chile’s national emblem; and Lesser Rhea (Ñandú): A flightless bird similar to an ostrich, often spotted in the park’s grasslands.One of the more surprising inhabitants of this remote region is the Austral parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus), the world’s southernmost parrot species. These bright green birds with red bellies are often seen flitting among the southern beech forests of the park. The woodlands, which include lenga and coigüe trees, provide important habitats for various species, including the Magellanic woodpecker and the strikingly coloured Patagonian fox.

The flora of the park is equally diverse, adapting to the harsh Patagonian conditions. Low-growing shrubs, grasses, and hardy flowers such as the calafate bush (which gives the town of El Calafate its name) are scattered throughout the steppe. Legend has it that those who eat the dark berries of the calafate bush are destined to return to Patagonia. The forests in the park’s valleys are also home to a variety of mosses, lichens, and wild orchids, adding to the park’s incredible ecological variety.

Austral parakeet, Torres del Paine, Chile

The legend of Calafate tells the story of a beautiful Tehuelche princess named Calafate, daughter of a powerful chief. She fell in love with a young Selk’nam man from a rival tribe, but their love was forbidden. To prevent their union, a shaman cast a spell that transformed Calafate into a bush with golden flowers and dark blue berries. 

Heartbroken, the young man searched for her endlessly. Moved by his sorrow, the gods took pity on him and transformed him into a small bird, allowing him to fly over the land in search of his lost love. When he finally found the calafate bush, he tasted its berries and recognised the soul of the princess within them. 

Since then, flocks of birds are said to return each season to feast on the fruit, and the legend holds that those who eat the calafate berry will always return to Patagonia, drawn by love and destiny. 

Today, the calafate bush (Berberis microphylla) is a symbol of the region, and its berries, used in jams and liqueurs, carry the myth of the princess and her lover. 

Lenga Forest and Calafate Bush

Environmental Challenges in Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine faces significant environmental challenges, primarily driven by tourism and climate change. The park’s fragile ecosystems are increasingly threatened by over-tourism, with more than 250,000 visitors annually putting pressure on the trails, campsites, and ildlife habitats. Litter, human waste, and foot traffic contribute to soil erosion and damage to the delicate vegetation. The devastating fire in 2011, caused by a careless tourist, destroyed vast areas of native lenga forest, taking decades to recover. Additionally, the region’s glaciers, including Grey Glacier, are receding due to the impacts of global warming, while the unpredictable and fierce Patagonian winds, which locals call “Escoba de Dios” (God’s Broom), continue to reshape the landscape. Park authorities are actively working to promote sustainable tourism and conservation efforts to protect this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for future generations.

Lago Nordenskjöld, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile

Final Thoughts

Returning to Torres del Paine after seven years was a powerful experience, highlighting both the park’s enduring beauty and the visible effects of climate change. While the granite spires and turquoise lakes remain as mesmerising as ever, the shrinking glaciers and increased foot traffic reflect a shifting landscape—both natural and human-made. Despite these changes, the raw, untamed wilderness of Patagonia continues to captivate, offering moments of solitude, adventure, and connection with a region that remains one of the world’s most breathtaking trekking destinations. Whether tackling the W Trek, horseback riding with gauchos, or simply marvelling at the colours of sunrise over the Towers, Torres del Paine still delivers an unforgettable journey through one of South America’s most iconic national parks.

Dates: 13/03/2018 to 18/03/2018 Dragoman Days 10 to 14, and 04/02/2025 to 09/02/2025