Dates: 03/09/2018 to 06/09/2018 and 19/05/2022 to 24/05/2022

Overview
The Zona Cafetera, or Coffee Axis, is a picturesque region in central Colombia known for its stunning landscapes, lush coffee plantations, and charming colonial towns like Salento and Manizales. This region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the world’s premier coffee-growing areas, producing a significant portion of Colombia’s famed Arabica coffee beans. The Zona Cafetera is not only an agricultural heartland but also a growing tourist destination, drawing visitors to its natural beauty, traditional coffee fincas (farms), and vibrant local culture.

Our journey North took us the 205kms from Cali to Salento via Armenia where we changed buses.  In Salento we stayed at the Salento Pequeño Hotel which had great views of the town from well-equipped rooms.  We again stayed there on our second visit in 2022.  From Salento we caught a direct bus the 248kms to Medellin.

Our second visit to the region in 2022 took us from Jardin de Antioqua to Manizales, where we stayed at the Hostal Mirador Andinoa quiet hotel close to the cable car terminal with great views down to the valley below.  The hotel had collections of old vinyl records and many other curios.  From Manizales we caught the bus via Periera to Salento and then via Armenia to Cali.

Geography and Climate
The Zona Cafetera is nestled between the western and central branches of the Andes Mountains. Its geography is defined by fertile valleys and rolling hills covered in a patchwork of coffee plantations. The region benefits from rich volcanic soil and a tropical climate with distinct rainy and dry seasons, creating ideal conditions for coffee cultivation. Temperatures typically range between 18°C to 24°C (64°F to 75°F), with moderate rainfall throughout the year, especially during the harvest season, making it perfect for the delicate Arabica coffee. This climate also allows for a diverse range of flora, such as the towering wax palms that dominate the Valle de Cocora.

History
The Zona Cafetera developed relatively late compared to other regions of Colombia. The area’s colonial heritage remains strong in towns like Salento and Manizales, which feature colourful architecture and lively central squares. The introduction of coffee in the late 19th century transformed the local economy, with waves of settlers arriving to farm the fertile land. Towns like Manizales were heavily influenced by the Spanish settlers and antioqueño culture. The region’s coffee industry grew steadily, becoming a key part of Colombia’s identity and international exports. Over the last few decades, increased tourism, eco-friendly practices, and modern agricultural methods have shaped its development.

Economics
Coffee remains the backbone of the local economy, with the region producing a substantial portion of Colombia’s export-grade coffee. The coffee industry supports thousands of families and many smallholder farms, with the cultivation of shade-grown, organic coffee gaining prominence. Additionally, the region has experienced a boom in tourism, with visitors drawn to explore the coffee fincas, hike in the Valle de Cocora, and visit historical sites. Investments in infrastructure, particularly in towns like Manizales, have helped boost the economy, alongside the emergence of artisanal industries, such as craft coffee and eco-tourism ventures.

Coffee in Zona Cafetera  The coffee industry in the Zona Cafetera thrives due to the region’s unique geography and climate. Coffee is grown at altitudes ranging from 1,200 to 1,800 metres, with rich volcanic soil and a temperate climate that is ideal for the cultivation of Arabica beans. The bushes are typically kept at around two metres in height for ease of picking. The coffee plants, bearing green and red berries, take around three years to mature before they begin producing beans. Organic farming is a growing trend in the region, with many farmers using sustainable methods such as intercropping with banana, guava, and citrus trees to maintain soil health. After harvesting, the beans are peeled and fermented, followed by drying under the sun. The process is meticulous, as the beans must be turned regularly to ensure even drying. Despite Colombia’s reputation for premium coffee, much of the best coffee is sent abroad, with only a select amount available locally, though in our later visit in 2022 we found many more specialist coffee shops in the major cities of Bogotá, Medellin and across the country, as the nation continues its development.

Salento: Colourful Colonial Charm at the Heart of Colombia’s Coffee Paradise

Principal Sites
Salento is one of the most charming colonial towns in the Zona Cafetera, famous for its vibrant streets, traditional architecture, and relaxed atmosphere. Its colourful buildings, often painted in bright blues, reds, and yellows, give it a distinct look compared to other colonial towns in Latin America. The Plaza de Bolívar, the town’s main square, is surrounded by lively cafés, artisan shops, and food stalls. Nearby, the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen is the main church of Salento, an unassuming yet symbolic building that dates back to the early 20th century and reflects the town’s deep Catholic roots.

Another notable site is the Alto de la Cruz, a lookout point offering panoramic views over the Cocora Valley. To reach it, you climb a set of steps from the edge of town, passing several religious shrines along the way. The effort is rewarded with sweeping vistas of the valley and distant mountains, making it a favourite spot for both locals and tourists.

Coffee Culture and Cafés
Salento is renowned for its coffee culture, and one of the top cafés in town is Cafe de La Esquina, considered one of the finest in the region. This café, with its traditional coffee making equipment, imported many years ago from Italy offers a variety of speciality coffee drinks, sourced directly from local coffee farms. Its commitment to showcasing the best of Colombian coffee has made it a must-visit spot. Another popular café is Brunch de Salento, known for its American-style breakfast menu and coffee brews.

In addition to its coffee, Salento also offers unique local dishes such as trucha con patacones (trout with fried plantains). The trout, often caught fresh from the surrounding rivers, is a local favourite and can be found in several of the town’s restaurants, such as El Rincón de Lucy and Acaime, which specialise in traditional cuisine.

El Ocaso Coffee Finca
On our first visit to Salento, we toured the El Ocaso Coffee Finca, one of the most famous coffee farms in the region. Located just outside the town, this finca offers in-depth tours through the coffee cultivation process. Visitors can walk through the lush coffee plantations, learn about the growing and harvesting stages, and witness the traditional methods used to dry and roast the beans. The tour concludes with a tasting session where guests can sample freshly brewed coffee straight from the source. The finca also integrates sustainable practices, blending a commitment to quality coffee with environmental consciousness.

On our second visit to Salento, we visited La Arzacia Finca, an organic coffee farm. This small finca has a rustic charm, offering visitors an intimate look at the coffee-making process, from picking the ripe red berries to processing the beans. Unlike larger, more commercial farms, La Arzacia feels like a family-run operation, with chickens and dogs wandering the grounds, adding to the relaxed atmosphere. The coffee bushes, kept at around 2 metres for easy picking (Colombians are generally not very tall), are planted alongside fruit trees such as guava, orange, and banana, providing natural fertilisation and preventing monoculture. Organic methods are used to control pests, with traps made from sugar water placed in the bushes to attract insects. The beans are handpicked, peeled, washed, and dried in traditional drying racks. The finca tour concluded with a tasting of freshly brewed coffee, a reward for understanding the immense labour involved in each cup.

Walks in Cocora Valley
The Valle de Cocora is undoubtedly one of Salento’s key attractions. Most visitors reach the valley via a ride in one of the town’s iconic Willy’s Jeeps, which depart from the town square. Once there, a series of hiking trails lead through the valley, where visitors can marvel at the towering wax palms (ceroxylon quindiuense), Colombia’s national tree. The wax palms, which can grow up to 60 metres tall, rise dramatically against the verdant valley backdrop. The most popular trek is a circular route that takes around five hours, passing through lush forests, open fields, and cloud forests, with opportunities to spot wildlife such as hummingbirds along the way. The views of the palms swaying high above the valley are truly unforgettable.

Wax Palms The wax palms of the Cocora Valley are an iconic symbol of Colombia, and they play a significant role in the country’s biodiversity. These towering trees grow primarily in the cloud forests of the Andes and are the tallest palms in the world, reaching heights of up to 60 metres. Once abundant, the palms are now protected, as deforestation and agricultural expansion have reduced their natural habitat. The Cocora Valley remains one of the few places where they still thrive in large numbers. Local legends often speak of the trees as protectors of the valley, adding a mystical aura to these already majestic giants.

Manizales: A City in the Clouds

Principal Sites
Manizales, the bustling university town perched atop the Andean ridges, offers a blend of modernity and tradition. The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of the Rosary is one of the city’s architectural highlights. Completed in 1939, this neo-gothic structure is the tallest cathedral in Colombia, standing at over 106 metres. Its impressive spire dominates the skyline, and visitors can climb to a viewing platform that offers panoramic views of the city and surrounding valleys.

Outside the cathedral is the Monumento al Bolívar Cóndor, a unique sculpture that blends the figure of Simón Bolívar with a condor, symbolising freedom and independence. 

In the Chipre district, the Monumento a Los Colonizadores is a significant sculpture depicting the arrival of the first settlers in the region. This striking monument, featuring a group of men, cattle, and their belongings, represents the pioneering spirit of Manizales’ early inhabitants. The area around Chipre also provides stunning views of the Nevado del Ruiz volcano and surrounding countryside, making it a popular spot for sunset views.

Cafés and Restaurants
Manizales also boasts a strong coffee culture, with many cafés and bakeries serving local brews. La Suiza, a long-standing bakery in the city centre, is famous for its cakes and coffee, providing the perfect spot for a mid-afternoon treat. The combination of old-world charm and excellent coffee has made it a local institution. In addition, Hostal Mirador Andino, where we stayed, featured a rooftop bar with vinyl records, offering a laid-back atmosphere and impressive views of the valleys below.

For restaurants, La Patateria is a favourite in the city, known for its rustic Colombian cuisine and warm atmosphere, while Don Juaco in the Chipre district is another standout, particularly for its traditional fare and stunning city views.

Other places in Zona Cafeteria: Armenia & Pereira

On our visits through Zona Cafeteria we passed through and changed transport in both Armenia and Periera.

Armenia
Armenia is one of the major cities in the Zona Cafetera and serves as a gateway to the region’s coffee plantations and cultural sites. With a population of approximately 300,000, this city is a key economic and transport hub. Although not as heavily visited as some other towns in the region, Armenia offers some interesting sites like the Parque de la Vida (Park of Life), which provides a peaceful respite with its winding paths and lush greenery. The city is also home to the Quimbaya Gold Museum, which features a remarkable collection of pre-Columbian artefacts and gold jewellery from the Quimbaya civilisation. Armenia’s coffee culture is evident in its bustling cafés and coffee plantations in the surrounding countryside, making it an excellent starting point for visitors exploring the region.

Pereira
Pereira is the largest city in the Zona Cafetera, with a population of around 470,000. It is a thriving metropolis, known for its vibrant atmosphere and bustling markets. As a commercial centre, Pereira has modern infrastructure and is a key city in Colombia’s coffee triangle. Highlights include Plaza de Bolívar, dominated by the statue of Bolívar Desnudo (Naked Bolívar), a unique sculpture representing the liberator of Colombia. The city is also home to the Cathedral of Our Lady of Poverty, a beautiful neo-romanesque church with impressive interior designs. Another major attraction is the Ukumari Biopark, a large zoological and conservation park that focuses on Colombian wildlife. Pereira’s position within the coffee-growing region makes it a hub for tours and coffee-related activities, with easy access to coffee plantations and rural landscapes.

Environmental Challenges in the Zona Cafetera
The Zona Cafetera faces several environmental challenges, including deforestation, changing rainfall patterns, and soil degradation. The region’s reliance on coffee as a monoculture has led to concerns about soil health, as large-scale farming practices have stripped the land of nutrients. In recent years, many farmers have turned to organic methods to combat this, incorporating mixed agriculture with other crops to prevent soil exhaustion.

Climate change has also had a noticeable impact on coffee production. Unpredictable rainfall and increasing temperatures have disrupted the traditional coffee-growing cycles, leading to lower yields in some years. The shift in climate has forced farmers to adapt by moving plantations to higher altitudes, where the cooler temperatures are more favourable for growing coffee.

Final Thoughts
The Zona Cafetera is one of Colombia’s most picturesque and culturally rich regions. From the brightly painted colonial buildings of Salento to the bustling university town of Manizales, the area offers a diverse range of experiences. Whether hiking through the majestic Cocora Valley, sipping coffee at one of the many fincas, or exploring the vibrant town centres, this region provides a deep connection to Colombia’s coffee heritage and natural beauty. Despite the environmental challenges it faces, the Zona Cafetera remains a resilient and vibrant part of Colombia’s landscape, where tradition and innovation coexist harmoniously.